Wine From Unexpected Places

Wines often surprise with unheard of grapes, but unexpected stories also surround their points of origin. Check out this delicious tour across continents:

Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2013

Made from Nerello Mascalese, grown on the "northern slopes" of Mount Etna, Sicily, the largest active volcano in Europe. Dirty and stony, for sure! - $22

Domaine de Fontsainte La Demoiselle 2013

Not so surprising a place, (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) but with antique vines planted by the Romans, on a thermal spring. A tasty blend of Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre. - $20

Campolargo Valdazar 2009

Trincadeira da Bairrada, Touriga Nacional, Baga, and Tinta Barroca grapes from Portugal. That sums it up. Ripe and earthy, with lasting length. - $20

Channing Daughters Rosato Di Cabernet Franc 2014

A Long Island, New York winery, with a reputation for experimentation. Like this Rosé made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Crispy citrus flavors and bone dry. - $20

Lieu Dit Pinot Noir Santa Ynez Valley 2013

Sommeliers like Eric Railsback flocking to make wine in the Santa Barbara area is no surprise. The volume of fantastic wines, and that they remain undiscovered by the mainstream, is another story. Bright red cherries, with acidity and a fantastic finish. - $40

A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

I visited Ridge Vineyards' Monte Bello Estate high atop the Santa Cruz Mountains during the final assemblage of their 2006 flagship wine. I recently happened upon a supply of the wine, and enjoyed recalling one of my best winery experiences. 

Paul Draper - Legendary Winemaker

Anything Ridge begins with Paul Draper, the chief winemaker since 1969 and CEO since 1988. Draper is one of the most-decorated winemakers in the world, including the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine and Spirits, which he won shortly before my visit in 2007. He is an advocate for quality and transparency in winemaking, and Ridge has listed all ingredients on their labels since 2012. It was intriguing to have a conversation with Paul at ease in his element. With one of wine's greatest resumes, he remains eagerly hospitable. When setting up my visit, I copied three Ridge employees on my request email, and who do you think replied first and most-graciously? That's right, Paul Draper. 

Monte Bello Assemblage

Tasting the individual components of the 2006 Monte Bello was extremely interesting, with guidance from Ridge vice president of winemaking for Monte Bello, Eric Baugher. A Santa Cruz-area native who grew up farming before earning degrees in biochemistry and molecular biology, Baugher has been with Ridge since 1994. During the tasting, he explained in depth the constantly-refined science of winemaking at Ridge. The Monte Bello is a Bordeaux-style blend is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc grapes, all grown on the Monte Bello Estate. Draper likes to say, "Wines make themselves", and the cool, mountain-top climate and terroir undoubtedly "make" this standout wine as much as the winemakers.  

Ridge Vineyards and Wine History

2006 marked the thirtieth anniversary of the famed Judgement of Paris, where the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello placed fifth. It was celebrated with a re-tasting of the same wines from the seventies, and this time around, the Monte Bello lead the way for the now dominant American wines. The 2006 version is promoted as a "direct descendant" of the winning wine.  But sentimental feelings for the 2006 aside, any year is likely to impress. At the assemblage tasting I also savored a couple of glasses of the 1978. Browned at the edges, yet bright and fresh, with a fantastic(!) taste of forest floor, this library selection was still very much alive. Always concentrated and complex, Ridge Monte Bello is built to please now or for the long-haul.

Along with the excellent wine and conversation, the humility and commitment to great wine at Ridge must be appreciated. During my visit, there was not a peep of the accolades from the thirty-year anniversary of the Judgement, nor Paul Draper's James Beard Award. All talk was about the current and future wines. If you have the opportunity, take the long, winding road up the mountain to Ridge, a unique and memorable wine experience.

Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello - 17100 Montebello Road, Cupertino, CA  95014

Wine Stories - Allora Vineyards

Wines are always accompanied by stories. My friends gifted me two delightful wines from Allora Vineyards. I was not familiar, so I read up on their history. Owner Terry Klein spent his teenage years in Napa Valley, and dreamed making fine wine. Returning as an adult with his wife Nancy, they purchased a pasture in St. Helena in 1998, and commenced growing what would become Allora. In a short time, they have turned out a solid product line from their former pasture. 

Allora Vineyards Lusso Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - With tannins smoothed out, a gentle giant emerged. Layers of complexity expressed themselves over time, with red berries, chocolate, and wood tones. A 100% Cabernet Reserve wine.

Allora Vineyards Cielo Red Proprietary Blend 2011 - A rustic, slightly spicy wine reflecting Italian style. Also very smooth, and dry at the end. The blend is 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet. 

Additional wines include a Petite Sirah and Cabernet Franc.

Another story is on the Lusso label, which features the art of Margaret Keane, famous for her Big Eyes paintings and the 2014 film centered on her life story. In the poster the label is taken from, three young women sit contemplating over their wine. Looking closely, you can see a tiny Cielo bottle on the right side of the print. 

New Orleans Wine And Food Experience

The Saturday Grand Tasting on Memorial Day weekend was a wine and dining circus. Although inside the New Orleans Convention Center, the layout and lighting gave it a giant tent-like feel, microphones blared tasting notes and cooking demonstrations from every angle, and a low, steady roar of the crowd (or was it lions and tigers?) carried on throughout. I enjoyed a fast-paced tasting tour, although the crowds slowed me considerably, preventing the volume I would have preferred. Several vendors ran out of product completely, and even packed up and left their areas, as early as halfway through the event. But these are the risks when attempting serious tasting in a large crowd. Standout wines included:

1. Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 - Bright red berries with a rustic, dry finish. $17
2. Chateau De Chantegrive Graves Blanc 2011 - Refreshing and light Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, with honeysuckle. $22
3. Clarksburg Wine Company Petite Sirah 2011 - Thick and inky, with dark berries, subtle spices, and a vanilla hint. $26
4. Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2014 - Earthy, raspberry and spice. $22
5. Canard Vineyard Adam's Blend 2012 - (link to 2011 notes) The second Canard wine that has caught my attention in as many months. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with red fruit to spare, woody, and chocolate notes. $65

Wine Forum Of Oklahoma - Picks From The Grand Tasting

The Wine Forum of Oklahoma took place last weekend in Stillwater, with wine education sessions and the grand tasting. I tried forty-six wines in the big white tent on the Oklahoma State University campus. Here are the standouts:

1. Stoller Family Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 - A delicious wine from the Dundee Hills of Oregon. Sweet spice, raspberry, and tart earthiness. $45
2. Elyse C'Est Si Bon Naggiar Vineyard 2011 - C'Est Si Bon means "It's so good". This Rhone style blend, primarily Mourvedre and Grenache, delivers. $28
3. Gerard Bertrand Cuvee Thomas Jefferson Cremant De Limoux Brut 2012 - History of Limoux in southern France traces back to the sixteenth century. Excited bubbles, with flowery sweetness. $18
4. Canard Vineyard Zinfandel 2011 - Rich and ripe fruits, with spices and vanilla hint. A big, thick-necked Zin. $45
5. Spann Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011 - A pleasantly smooth and round wine, for drinking alone or lighter dining. $27

Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.

I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.

• Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
• Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
• Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
• Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
• Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
• Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46 

I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome. 

There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.

Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.

Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101

Red Wines That Are Primo!

Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:

Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35

Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37

Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29

Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19