Wine From Unexpected Places

Wines often surprise with unheard of grapes, but unexpected stories also surround their points of origin. Check out this delicious tour across continents:

Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2013

Made from Nerello Mascalese, grown on the "northern slopes" of Mount Etna, Sicily, the largest active volcano in Europe. Dirty and stony, for sure! - $22

Domaine de Fontsainte La Demoiselle 2013

Not so surprising a place, (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) but with antique vines planted by the Romans, on a thermal spring. A tasty blend of Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre. - $20

Campolargo Valdazar 2009

Trincadeira da Bairrada, Touriga Nacional, Baga, and Tinta Barroca grapes from Portugal. That sums it up. Ripe and earthy, with lasting length. - $20

Channing Daughters Rosato Di Cabernet Franc 2014

A Long Island, New York winery, with a reputation for experimentation. Like this Rosé made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Crispy citrus flavors and bone dry. - $20

Lieu Dit Pinot Noir Santa Ynez Valley 2013

Sommeliers like Eric Railsback flocking to make wine in the Santa Barbara area is no surprise. The volume of fantastic wines, and that they remain undiscovered by the mainstream, is another story. Bright red cherries, with acidity and a fantastic finish. - $40

Wine Stories - Paydirt, Paso Robles

Going For Broke label

Patrick McNeil always brings non-traditional artistic expression to the wines he works with. An entrepreneur on the business side of wine, he was previously behind the design and marketing of The Prisoner, among others. Now with winemaker McPrice Myers, he has his own memorable brand on the market, Paydirt. The label on the current Going For Broke blend is part of a larger work of art, with another piece of the puzzle appearing on a different bottling, Reckless Abandon. Perhaps there will be additional wild-eyed labels in the series, and exciting red blends to match!

Paydirt Going For Broke 2013 - A mouthful of a red blend, with Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. A juicy balance of dark berries, medium tannins, some peppery spice, a taste of The Dirt of Paydirt, and a pleasantly lingering finish. $30

Art on the wall of Paydirt

db Brasserie, Las Vegas - Wine and Service Experience

The first page of the wine list at db Brasserie

db Brasserie, the latest concept from French American icon Daniel Boulud, located in the Venetian, Las Vegas, and surrounded by brands from his celebrity chef contemporaries, still finds ways to stand out among wine and service experiences.

My visit occurred the day before Thanksgiving, with heavy activity before the holiday, and amidst the early Black Friday shopping frenzy. Service began long before my meal, as I happened by the restaurant several hours before my reservation. I requested a particular style of booth, which was accommodated promptly. I spent time at the bar during the daily happy hour, where several wines, beers, and craft cocktails were promoted. The green water glasses call attention to the decor, which are further highlighted by touches of green in the various food presentations. The bar is smaller, but gives the feeling of being larger than it is. I was drawn to the display of glassware by Stolzle, and the lineup of hand-labled cocktail ingredients. Large screen televisions are above the bar, and visible throughout many parts of the restaurant. I enjoyed a Lucien Albrecht Cremant de-Alsace Brute Blanc De Blancs NV, which was crispy and refreshing with apple and citrus.

Seating was immediate, in the requested booth with a full view of the restaurant. The lead server made introductions and delivered food and wine menus within seconds. Shortly thereafter, Head Sommelier Devin Zendel greeted the table with Champagne flutes, and announced, "I am going to pour you something." He returned with a bottle of Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV, and filled the glasses around the table. The Daniel, specifically chosen by the restaurant group, was delicious, with citrus and striking bread dough flavors. I savored the brut while discussing the menu and wine options. The wine list offers an extensive selection of French alongside American bottles, with a broad price range. I asked for Devin's recommendations, hoping to find a new French favorite. He pointed out a couple of wines based on our desired styles, including the Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010. He spoke of the wine's predominant mourvedre, and how Tempier was the leading producer of wines from this grape and the Bandol appellation. He opened, checked, and decanted the wine at a station within eyesight before presenting it to the table. It was delightfully elegant and long-lasting. Still young and a full of potential, it had leather and floral aromas with dark berries. It also paired nicely with the dinner entrees.

The meal began with puffy Gouda bread treats, compliments of the chef. The Tunisian Lamb came as two chops, with lamb sausage, and lemony spinach. The Yankee, one of three signature DB NY Burgers offered, was impressive even with the hype. Coq Au Vin from the Prix Fixe menu was tender, in a very red wine preparation with mushrooms and hints of bacon. The star, though, of db Brasserie and my entire Las Vegas dining tour, was the Steak Frites, also from the Prix Fixe menu. A generously cut flat iron steak, with a spicy-seasoned crust, cooked to the perfect medium rare temperature. It was one of the top steaks in my considerable beefeating history. To finish the meal, the table shared excellent desserts, a citrusy Panna Cotta, and Black and White Fondant, a flourless chocolate cake with white chocolate ganache and vanilla gelato.

Overall service was fast acting, efficient, and friendly. Almost nothing could be criticized, extremely rare for me at a full dining event. The worst I can say is that I poured the wine once. With the Head Sommelier taking the lead at tableside, I felt completely cared for, and somewhat special. Devin knew just where to go in style and price for wine selection. I was glad to see contemporary, yet still appropriate, glassware in play, and enjoyed the sight of the wine being opened and prepared just so at a dedicated area separate from the table. Activity by the team of servers was understated, subtly consistent and thorough, without making too big a show of things or interrupting by their presence. All requests in seating and food preparation were satisfied, and knowledgeable answers to all questions were provided. In the bar, five bartenders and servers buzzed about, displaying comfortable teamwork and communication. It was a pleasant, smooth running operation.

db Brasserie, open only seven months in ultra-competitive Las Vegas, was a highlight of my experiences, and appears on its way to taking the lead in Vegas wine and fine dining. 

Read my conversation with Head Sommelier Devin Zendel here.

Red Wines That Are Primo!

Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:

Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35

Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37

Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29

Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19