Van The Wine Man's Most Popular - 2015

Here is a recap of my most popular posts of 2015:

Wine-O wall at Brian McClintic's Les Marchands

Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More

The SOMM star talked about managing his insane schedule, promoting winemaking in Santa Barbara, and his philosophy on wine service.

Wine Talk With Rajat Parr

The two-time James Beard Award winner and extraordinary wine taster discussed his four current winemaking projects and the importance of trying different wines to expand your palate.

Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine

The man behind The Grilled Cheese Truck has ambitious and creative plans for such a simple and delicious staple of life.

Sandhi and Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars

Rajat Parr sat me up in his tasting room to try several examples of the excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Santa Barbara County.

A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Favorite memories from a drive up the mountain, with Paul Draper, Monte Bello assemblage, and pieces of Ridge history.  

Wine From Unexpected Places

Wines often surprise with unheard of grapes, but unexpected stories also surround their points of origin. Check out this delicious tour across continents:

Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2013

Made from Nerello Mascalese, grown on the "northern slopes" of Mount Etna, Sicily, the largest active volcano in Europe. Dirty and stony, for sure! - $22

Domaine de Fontsainte La Demoiselle 2013

Not so surprising a place, (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) but with antique vines planted by the Romans, on a thermal spring. A tasty blend of Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre. - $20

Campolargo Valdazar 2009

Trincadeira da Bairrada, Touriga Nacional, Baga, and Tinta Barroca grapes from Portugal. That sums it up. Ripe and earthy, with lasting length. - $20

Channing Daughters Rosato Di Cabernet Franc 2014

A Long Island, New York winery, with a reputation for experimentation. Like this Rosé made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Crispy citrus flavors and bone dry. - $20

Lieu Dit Pinot Noir Santa Ynez Valley 2013

Sommeliers like Eric Railsback flocking to make wine in the Santa Barbara area is no surprise. The volume of fantastic wines, and that they remain undiscovered by the mainstream, is another story. Bright red cherries, with acidity and a fantastic finish. - $40

Elway's, Denver - Winning Wine And Service

Visits to two of John Elway's upscale steakhouses in Denver could not have been under more opposite circumstances, yet both yielded outstanding experiences worth repeating. 

Elway's Downtown

First, my wife and I were thrilled with an anniversary dinner at Elway's Downtown, inside the Ritz-Carlton. Arriving for a reservation, we were recognized and seated immediately in a cozy, semi-private booth, complete with flowers. Several members of management and staff cared for us throughout the evening, with Executive Sommelier Gail Oversteg taking the lead. She gave excellent recommendations from the wine list and food menu. A pair of truly prime steaks were perfectly prepared, and we are now loyal users of Elway's steak seasoning. Gail continued to exceed expectations throughout the evening. After I inquired about the aerator she used to decant our Burgundy, she produced a new, boxed and gift-bagged version of the device that we gladly purchased at cost. 

On another trip, we made a spontaneous drop-in to Elway's at the airport, on a game day no less. Anxious about a short layover, yet hungry for great food, we cautioned the hostess of our dilemma. She mentioned that the menu would be limited (no prime steak this trip) for such a brief meal, but assured us it could be done. Our waiter, Andrew, was aware of our time frame when he introduced himself, and reassured us we were in good shape. A strong list of wines by the glass included selections like Guigal Cotes du Rhone and Acacia Pinot Noir. The Spicy Steak Chili was exactly that, with chopped chunks of beef bringing serious heat. Andrew presented the check immediately after our meal. We were in, out, and fully satisfied in twenty-five minutes! 

Completely different experiences in scope, with identical happiness. Elway's has a high-five recommendation for wine, food, and service.

Elway's Downtown - Ritz-Carlton 1881 Curtis St. Denver, CO  80202

Elway's at DIA - Denver International Airport, B Concourse

Wine Talk With Rajat Parr

Rajat Parr has invested two decades in restaurant and wine service and oversight, wine education, and now wine making, to become one of the world's most influential Sommeliers. While juggling all these responsibilities and collecting the industry's highest honors, he remains abundantly outgoing and gracious. Clearly, he lives the quote of Mahatma Gandhi that adorns his email signature: "The best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others." Here are highlights from conversation he shared with me surrounding his passion for wine.

On how he got started with wine...

I was born and grew up in India, and went to hotel school. I always loved cooking, but there was not a cooking school in India at the time. So I went to hotel school, and then I was accepted and moved to New York to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I was there I joined the wine club, and I fell in love with wine. So my focus shifted to wine, and I started working, and moved to San Francisco and worked with Larry Stone at a restaurant called Rubicon. I started as a busboy and moved up to Sommelier with Larry as his assistant. Then I was Sommelier at Fifth Floor, and then Michael Mina, and opened around twenty restaurants. I was already making wine, so I did both from ’04 to 2012, and then I finally moved full-time to Santa Barbara. 

So you have four different wine projects. I can see why you had get out of restaurant business. How do you manage all of them?

Ha ha! I don’t know. Yes, two estate projects and two negociant or purchased grape projects. There is Domaine de la Cote in Santa Rita Hills, and Seven Springs Vineyards in Oregon that are estate. Then we have Sandhi, and Maison L'Oree in Burgundy, small negociants. All of these things just happened very naturally and nothing was forced. We have great partners, and we work it out. We have fun doing it. We have a great time working with Seven Springs, an old vineyard, planted in the mid-eighties. It’s pretty great to work with an almost thirty-year old vineyard. Then Domain de la Cote is a new vineyard, planted in ’06. Pretty great to see the potential of the young vineyard. Hopefully it will be great in twenty or thirty years.

On Santa Barbara and the new California wine scene...

I always loved Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and I think you can grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pretty well in Santa Barbara. You can make wines which have good levels of high-acidity, very vibrant wines. Sonoma was another option, and Santa Cruz. They all are different. I just felt Santa Barbara was more my style. When Domaine de la Cote was planted, early on, I was quite astounded by the results from the vineyard, so I decided to go all in.

In Pursuit of Balance was supposed to be just a small gathering or tasting. Me and my friend Jasmine Hirsch, when she was just starting to work with her family vineyard, and I had just started Sandhi. And we said let’s do a tasting, get some like-minded people together. So we did a small tasting of twenty people in 2011. It was a big success. There were a lot of people interested in listening to what’s happening in California, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot, and that small tasting now has a pretty big following. There was a great article, one of the best articles written, by Anne Crable. Are you on Twitter? I put it on Twitter. One of the most informative articles I’ve seen. 

What advice would you give to the wine drinking community, with so much good wine and new trends?

I think that the most important thing is to have an open mind, and to try different things. Sometimes people just always drink the same wines they drink, and stay in their comfort zone. I think it’s important to open your mind, try different things. Different wines with different foods, and see. The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing. That way you can really explore new things, try some fun wines, and learn more. The younger generation (is like this) for sure. The Millennials are very curious. Quite different than the Baby Boomers. They like the classics. Which, there is nothing wrong. But if you want to learn more, you must have an open mind. 

Rajat was honored with the 2011 James Beard Award for Beverage for his book, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World's Top Wine Professionals. I asked how things have changed since it was published:

I think when we wrote the book, we didn’t really account for so many young sommeliers now. The core of the book is still really relevant. There are a lot of regions that have really developed in the past five years. Things are changing rapidly in the wine world. I think we will have to do a new edition to update all the new wines. Australia for example. California was really small at the time, and now there is so much more. I think the core story and core content are still really relevant. Definitely that. And I am working on a new book as well. 

When he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional, I asked for his comments on a second Award:

The James Beard Award means a lot to me. It's a huge honor and an endorsement by the food and wine community. I feel humbled!

See notes from my tasting of Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi here.

New Orleans Wine And Food Experience

The Saturday Grand Tasting on Memorial Day weekend was a wine and dining circus. Although inside the New Orleans Convention Center, the layout and lighting gave it a giant tent-like feel, microphones blared tasting notes and cooking demonstrations from every angle, and a low, steady roar of the crowd (or was it lions and tigers?) carried on throughout. I enjoyed a fast-paced tasting tour, although the crowds slowed me considerably, preventing the volume I would have preferred. Several vendors ran out of product completely, and even packed up and left their areas, as early as halfway through the event. But these are the risks when attempting serious tasting in a large crowd. Standout wines included:

1. Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 - Bright red berries with a rustic, dry finish. $17
2. Chateau De Chantegrive Graves Blanc 2011 - Refreshing and light Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, with honeysuckle. $22
3. Clarksburg Wine Company Petite Sirah 2011 - Thick and inky, with dark berries, subtle spices, and a vanilla hint. $26
4. Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2014 - Earthy, raspberry and spice. $22
5. Canard Vineyard Adam's Blend 2012 - (link to 2011 notes) The second Canard wine that has caught my attention in as many months. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with red fruit to spare, woody, and chocolate notes. $65

Wine Forum Of Oklahoma - Picks From The Grand Tasting

The Wine Forum of Oklahoma took place last weekend in Stillwater, with wine education sessions and the grand tasting. I tried forty-six wines in the big white tent on the Oklahoma State University campus. Here are the standouts:

1. Stoller Family Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 - A delicious wine from the Dundee Hills of Oregon. Sweet spice, raspberry, and tart earthiness. $45
2. Elyse C'Est Si Bon Naggiar Vineyard 2011 - C'Est Si Bon means "It's so good". This Rhone style blend, primarily Mourvedre and Grenache, delivers. $28
3. Gerard Bertrand Cuvee Thomas Jefferson Cremant De Limoux Brut 2012 - History of Limoux in southern France traces back to the sixteenth century. Excited bubbles, with flowery sweetness. $18
4. Canard Vineyard Zinfandel 2011 - Rich and ripe fruits, with spices and vanilla hint. A big, thick-necked Zin. $45
5. Spann Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011 - A pleasantly smooth and round wine, for drinking alone or lighter dining. $27

Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More

Master Sommelier. Vallin winemaker. SOMM Film Star. Les Marchands Wine Bar owner. Brian McClintic shared some of his experiences from all aspects of his busy schedule.

What was it like having a camera in your face while studying for the master sommelier exam?

I think it impacted me positively. The Master Sommelier test is very social. The tasting is with a panel. Service is obviously social. The theory test is oral. You’re walking around with so much information in your head, a lot of people become socially awkward. The film forced me to come out of my shell, to lighten up and stay loose, and be the best version of myself. I was able to stay outside myself, to not get lost in myself.

how do you drink your way through a calendar packed with wine projects?

I cry myself to sleep every night?! Really, they just flow into each other. We were already making wine, and it all happened at once after the movie in a whirlwind. It’s ironic, wine is to celebrate, it’s social. It’s not like coffee, not a shot of espresso and go about your day. With wine we take our time. My day is not like that. Imagine if your job was eating just your favorite food. Now imagine if I asked you to start eating it twice a day. And you love steak. You wouldn’t be able to do that very long, not without throwing a salad in. I’m tasting wines constantly. Your palate can only take so much. But I love what I do. I remind myself at the end of the day that it’s just wine.

What wines were difference-makers for you?

As for ah-ha wines, there was never one, but there were several stages along the way. I was working at a steakhouse, and it was all about Napa Cab. From five to five-hundred-dollars. That’s where I learned to taste the difference. But then a guest would ask about our tiny French section, and I would think, “Bordeaux, is that a grape or a section? How do you pronounce these things?” So one night I splurged. I bought an eighty-five Pomerol, and took it to a friend who would know, and it was like, “Oh!” The smells and tastes were like nothing I knew. That was my new to old world intro. At a certain point you experience Burgundy, and at first you think, “It’s thin and soft, it smells light. Why is everyone going crazy for this?” I was working at the Little Nell in Aspen, and had my first Grand Cru Burgundy. That was when I got Burgundy. After that, going back to Napa Cab...they seemed unctuous, over the top. If it were just me, ninety-percent of what I drink would be whites.

what do people need to know about santa barbara wine?

Oh, I could talk forever. So there’s the new world of wine, it’s still in it’s infancy. In the old world, monks have been making wine over the course of centuries. Santa Barbara was only planted in seventy-one, so it’s very young. All of California, really, are like infants playing in a sandbox. Just highly gifted, intelligent infants. It’s the old world we learn from and give credit to, and we’ve come far very quickly. But do we know what grows best where? No, not until we know what is best viticulturally. Santa Barbara is a geographic anomaly. San Francisco area is great, cellar temperature year-round. Santa Barbara has the coolest, longest growing season in the valley. It allows us to plant grapes that ripen, but grow over a longer period of time. But it’s branded for tourism. You say “Napa” or “Sonoma” you immediately think wine. You say “Paso Robles”, you think wine. You say “Santa Barbara”, you think palm trees, sun, beaches, and bikinis, not wine. Everyone asks, “How can we change it?” I say, “Don’t! Stay out of the spotlight while we figure it out.” Maybe Gruner Veltliner is perfect for growing, but Pinot Noir is the most marketable. Now there are progressive growers who choose to plant what’s best, not what is most marketable. There are makers who want to work with Gruner Veltliner and others like it. And there are drinkers who want to try Gruner Veltliner, that are more open than ever. I like to say Santa Barbara has unlimited potential. 

On winemaking and service

Vallin was not started to be a money-maker. It was to keep four guys connected together. But once we started, we decided, “OK, we’re going to do some serious wine.” Lots of somms make wine, put juice in a bottle, put a label on it, we’re not doing that. We said, “So Syrah is not the most marketable wine. Syrah is a world-class grape, let’s get behind it.” Northern Rhone is the heart of Syrah, and we made it our focal point. We were in Burgundy, drinking Jamet Cote Rotie. Let that sink in. Vallin was on the label, we liked how it looked on the label. We researched and found it was a street name, then went further and found it was actually a surname. Vallin means valley dwellers, from people that originally settled the Rhone valley. We said, “That’s cool and simple, let’s go with it.” It’s exciting to see three years later, we sold out of the ‘twelve, and are just waiting for the ‘thirteen in the barrel to be ready to bottle.  

Brian exams the well-stocked shelves at Les Marchands

Service for a sommelier is different than any other service. The court teaches specific standards of service, so that if the Queen of England asks you to do a wine service, you could deliver that. It’s very technically precise. With staff, it’s different. You take the clientele, the concept, into account. Les Marchands is not buttoned-up like formal fine dining. We’re very warm and approachable, and technically proficient. Usually it is one of these, but not both. This is without being stuffy or pretentious. We size up each guest. We tailor service to each guest, it’s all about how we meet them where they are. Michael Jordan, the sommelier not the basketball player, is a master sommelier and my mentor. He said, “It’s not how much you know, it’s how much you care.” That’s something that has stuck with me, so simple but so powerful. We guess where guests are at, and think how can we meet them there. Invariably every night there is one guest you could have done something better. And being attuned to the needs of others is something applicable to every area of life. 

expect to experiment at Les Marchands wine bar & merchant, santa barbara

Most people look at our by the glass list and say, “What language is this?” But then we pour them a tasting and they’re in. We’ve found that “yeah, I’ll try it” makes up about ninety-percent of our clientele. When we originally told our investors we wanted mostly lesser-known European varietals on the list, they said, “Are you crazy?!” But these are balanced out by the local wines. There are tremendous values from strange places. Not just to be strange, but good, high-level wines. But they're not marketed, so they’re way underpriced. 

What Brian described here played out in my experience at Les Marchands. Several staffers combined to accommodate my group's requests with recommendations that were right on target, and there were many unfamiliar wines available for tasting, along with attractive pricing. Wines by the glass change frequently, allowing for an ongoing educational process for those fortunate enough to be regular patrons.

Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchants

Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101

Best Of Los Angeles Wine, Service, And Dining

Impromptu tasting at Les Marchands

The standouts from my visit to Los Angeles and SoCal, from Laguna to Lompoc:

wine

1. Sandhi Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - These first two are Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman's Santa Barbara projects. Full coverage here.
2. Domaine De La Cote Sta Rita Hills 2012 - Pinot Noir... 
3. Terre Des Chardones "Marginal" 2012 - Found at Les Marchands. A funky, earthy Syrah-Grenache with a sweet hint to end.
4. Calabretta Vino Rosso "Cala Cala" NV - Also from Les Marchands. "The magma in the body". Drink from Mount Etna.
5. Marotti Campi Rubico Lacrima Di Morro D'Alba 2012 - Discovered at the Slow Wine event. The story here.

service

1. Domaine De La Cote Tasting Room - Outstanding hospitality, throughout set up and a generous tasting. Lompoc
2. Open Sesame - Friendly, thorough service and constant attention, from only one server. Long Beach
3. Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant - Brian McClintic's thriving operation. Four staff members assisted with everything from setting up an impromptu tasting, to advising on a selection of Cote Rotie to take home. Santa Barbara
4. Hotel Shangri-La Dining Room Bar - A right-proper mimosa, with just a splash of OJ, but they had me at Whistle Pig Rye. Santa Monica
5. C'est La Vie Restaurant and Bakery - French foods and baked goods were good. The view of the ocean from the upstairs deck, along with entertaining service from "Gary Glitter" made the experience. Gary knows anything you need to know about the area. Laguna Beach

Kogi food truck delights

food

1. Republique - I left wanting more. Read about it. 624 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles
2. Open Sesame - Beef shawarma, lamb chops, hummus, garlic fried potatoes. Musar Jeune 2011. A great experience. Long Beach
3. Kogi BBQ Truck - The sweet chili chicken quesadilla, Kogi dog, and various tacos on the hood of my rental. Various locations
4. Tortilla Republic - Great sauces on both the duck enchiladas with a habanero cream sauce and mole chicken enchiladas. West Hollywood
5. Ma 'n Pa Grocery - "World Famous Fried Chicken" every Wednesday...from a converted gas station. Long Beach

best cocktail

Patterson’s Nap at Melrose Umbrella Company - Cool drink in a cooler place. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Tangerine, Lemon, Campari. West Hollywood

best to be

Augustine Wine Bar - Now open! 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks

Sandhi And Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars

These were some of my favorite wines from a tasting trip in the Los Angeles area. Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman are players in both wineries, and have special things happening in Santa Barbara.

I tried six wines at the Domaine De La Cote tasting room in Lompoc. The delightful Molly Barker, an enthusiastic Lompoc native who runs the tasting room, explained that Raj wanted the Domaine De La Cote Pinot Noirs tasted before the Sandhi Chardonnays. It was an intriguing spin to the customary order which showed off the purity of the Pinots, then allowed the powerful and refreshing whites to shine. 

• Domaine De La Cote Sta. Rita Hills 2012 - Smoky and dirty, with ripe and tart red berries, my favorite of the Pinots. $45
• Domaine De La Cote Bloom's Field 2012 - A big and bold peppery start, leveled by sweeter red fruit, and a long ending. $70
• Domaine De La Cote la Cote 2012 - Even bigger(?) with spice notes, this one balanced by creamy fruits. $90

• Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - Lemon creme and wisps of smoke, very fresh. My favorite of the Chardonnays. $38
• Sandhi Rita's Crown Chardonnay 2012 - Boldly, yet nicely, acidic and mineral driven. $55
• Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2012 - From some of the oldest vines in the area, very smooth and subtle with a slightly bitter finish. $55

Molly mentioned a couple of the primary winemaking focuses: Domaine De La Cote is stored in neutral oak with no toast, for a transparent expression of Pinot. Sandhi is made with lower alcohol and higher acidity. These philosophies are working for them. I would enjoy all six wines on a regular basis.

Santa Barbara Wines Ready To Impress

A recent wine tasting trip to Southern California yielded some unexpected favorites. After several tastings, and over a hundred wines from all around the world, the most impressive were not from Bordeaux or Napa, but from Santa Barbara County. Several exuberant wines like Domaine De La Cote Bloom's Field 2012, and Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 stood out from their competition. It is easy to see why winemaker and master sommelier Brian McClintic said, "Santa Barbara has unlimited potential." 

The wines tasted include 2012 Bordeaux and out of the mainstream Italians tried at large events, plus smaller producer tastings and numerous wines by the glass. Along with the wine itself, there were conversations with some of the top wine professionals and one of the foremost advocates of food trucks in the United States. I will share more about my tastings and best experiences in posts over the next few weeks.

Full Circle Wine Tasting Experience

Here is an example of a wine discovery experience going full-circle, highlighted with some of my most-popular posts:

A tAsting Strategy

I tasted over thirty wines at an event when I found the first bottling of Gehricke Carneros Pinot Noir 2012. It was clearly one of the best at the time, and after a stand-alone bottle for confirmation, it was time to buy it up. I shopped several local stores until I found the most attractive price, and purchased several bottles.

if you like it...

I enjoyed and shared the initial bottles over the next two months, and the wine was a consistent favorite, scoring well even among friends that do not like (?) Pinot Noir. After much travel, including tasting trips to Oregon and Las Vegas, and hundreds of wines, the Gehricke ended up as my top wine pick of the year. But while continuing to buy and drink the wine, I began to notice something...

buy it all

Supply was running out. I went on a quick spree and purchased the last bottles at my shops. I asked a couple of stores to check with the distributor, which confirmed the sold out status. A search on the producer's site now finds the nearest bottles six-hundred miles away.

I always feel accomplished when I recognize and introduce others to a wine that later becomes mainstream, and especially when I have a few bottles held back for the future. For now, it is back to the tasting trail to find another highly recommended.

Have you tried the Gehricke? What did you think?

Wines Of The Year

The best times with wine involve people, places, and excellent service experiences. Here are my top wines from 2014, with the events surrounding them. 

1. Gehricke Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - This is a fabulous first production, with earthy leather, red berries, and some spice. I found it at the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits wine tasting event in Tulsa. $35
2. Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 - The 40th Anniversary edition is powerfully dark, velvety, and lasts seemingly forever. Fearing's Restaurant in Dallas offered it to me first. $60
3. JL Chave Mon Coer Cotes-du-Rhone 2011 - Thanks to Master Sommelier Craig Collins and Arro in Austin for the introduction to this value Rhone. $19
4. Brooks Bois Joli Riesling 2012 - This was my favorite find on a tasting tour of Oregon. Lots of citrus and just enough sweetness. Brooks is very generous, and they have a touching film about winemaking you should see: American Wine Story. $24
5. Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges 2009 - Affordable Burgundy acquired at a wine lover's paradise, Brown Derby of Springfield, Missouri. $55

Post-Holiday Wine Shopping On A Budget

If your wine budget is short, here's an international mixed case of available and affordable bottles to enjoy while you replenish your savings:

• Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon - $16
• The Black Chook McLaren Vale Shiraz - $18
• Tommasi Valpolicella Rafael - $17
• Charles Smith Wines The Velvet Devil Merlot - $15
• Silvertop Malbec - $10
• M. Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone Belleruche - $15
• Michael Pozzan Wines Annabella Carneros Pinot Noir - $15
• Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay - $14
• Gruet Winery Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10
• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - $18
• Bodega Del Abad Dom Bueno Godello - $15
• Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett - $19

Red Wines That Are Primo!

Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:

Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35

Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37

Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29

Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19

Wine and Turkey Talk

Turkey Time

If there is a traditional meal of turkey and all its trimmings in your near future, does it require a similarly predictable wine? I think not. The likelihood of a larger group of people with a multitude of tastes and preferences is high, and the ease of accessibility to experiment with diverse and affordable wines that work for such a meal has never been greater. Why not broaden out in your wine and food pairing experience? Here are a variety of wine styles and recommendations, from expected to out of the norm, for turkey dinner on any day.

Reds

Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Bright, with dominant red berries, spices, and hints of sweetness, even cola.  

• Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - $20
• Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $52

Cote de Nuits Burgundy - Elegant expressions of Pinot Noir, complex, and earthy. Narrowing further, Nuits-St-Georges are typically reasonable in price.

• Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges - $55

Washington Syrah - Heat up with Rhone-style beauties aplenty. If Syrah is too hot and heavy for you, try a Washington Grenache or Cabernet Franc.

• Abeja Estate Syrah - $40
• K Vintners The Boy Grenache - $45

Whites

Oregon is turning out increasing numbers of intriguing white wines, with one to fit any occasion. 

• Brooks Willamette Valley Riesling - $20
• Alloro Chardonnay - $28

Sancerre - Aromatic and refreshing Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. 

• Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre - $28

Champagne - Bubbles and the bird. It may surprise you.

• Gosset Grande Reserve Brut - $50

What is your style: Traditionalist, contrarian, or both? Share your favorite wine and turkey finds.

Wine Picks For Your "Thirst"

I recently tasted newly released wines in the portfolio of Thirst Wine Merchants. Here are my standout picks: 

1. Bodegas LAN Vina Lanciano Reserva 2007 - Spicy, chewy Spanish Tempranillo/Mazuelo blend. SRP $25
2. Sean Minor Point North Pinot Noir 2012 - I'm a big fan of their Carneros Pinots, and their Oregon offering is a winner! SRP $22
3. Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc Estate Vineyard 2013 - Delicious, gravely with a mouthful of citrus. SRP $40
4. K Vintners Clifton Hill Syrah Wahluke Slope 2011 - Bold (of course) with smoked meats and spices, and it sticks around. SRP $40
5. Feraud-Brunel Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2011 - Solid Cotes-du-Rhone, with tobacco spice and leather. SRP $18

Fearing's Restaurant, Dallas - Wine and Service Experience

The opening page of the wine list at Fearing's

Service is the factor that makes a restaurant experience stand out, for better or worse. With so many good choices of what and where to eat available, how you are made to feel throughout the dining event carries almost equal influence on your satisfaction as the meal itself. I will write about excellent service received around wine and fine dining events, beginning with Fearing's Restaurant in Dallas.

I was greeted promptly by my lead waiter, and I described my plans to have Dean's renowned Tortilla Soup and several wines by the glass. I expressed a desire to try Texas wines, and the Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet was suggested. Before I even considered asking, he offered to bring me a taste. The bottle was presented, and a generous taste was poured into the large Riedel glass. My waiter conversed about the wine while I finished the taste, which lasted several sips, before pouring  the full glass. He talked further about Texas wines, explaining that more and more are being produced. "Not at the level of California," he said, "but quality." The dark, spicy, and leathery Inwood Estates blend was just what I had hoped for, and complimented the tortilla soup nicely.

I was thinking about a lighter wine to follow the blend, and asked my waiter what he would try. He mentioned a Pinot Noir, paused briefly, then said, "Let me check in the wine cellar and see if we have anything open." I was intrigued. He returned with a new bottle of Pinot Noir and a previously opened bottle of Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet, 40th Anniversary 2012, both of which he poured "tastes" of in appropriate glasses. Then I was excited.

He explained that the Caymus had been open for two days, but that it was still good, and he was right. I noted that only the cork was used to close the bottle, no vacuum or synthetic plug, and that it had been climate controlled. After I was visibly impressed by the initial swallow, he emptied the remainder of the bottle in my glass, what I describe as a full pour-plus. He said, "Often people order wine and don’t finish it, so we save it but can’t drink it ourselves. So, we give it to you." The wine still had a lot going on, and was velvety, inky, and vibrant. This was a quality wine that had received skillful preservation.  

Next, it was time to taste the Elizabeth Rose Pinot Noir. It was lighter, as I had requested earlier, and refreshing with a subtle earthiness. This was a screw-top bottle, which I was impressed to see as a featured wine. I asked my waiter how he liked working with the huge selection of wines at Fearing's. He enthusiastically described how he gets to taste all the wines, "new ones, too", and how it was critical that he know the wines so that he could properly describe and recommend them. 

Afterward, I retired to the lounge area, and Wine Director Paul Botamer, whom I met earlier, arrived with a bottle of Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Gran Reserva 1983 dessert wine. Paul poured me a glass and told the story of the wine's thirty years of barrel aging. The wine was a delicious treat of dense smoke and chocolate. 

Overall service at Fearing's was outstanding. Four servers worked seamlessly to care for me, I enjoyed constant attention early, and then was allowed to enjoy the wines. I never had to look for a server, and all were conversational and knowledgeable. Their collective demeanor as they fluidly cared for a variety of patrons and party sizes put me at ease. I took note of reactions from other tables, and all appeared similarly satisfied. It felt superbly balanced.

The wine service was exciting to experience, and the standout aspects of the wine program were many. The glassware, and the generosity of pours into them. The presentation of bottles, even for wines by the glass. The openness about the philosophy behind the wine program, from staff training to handling leftover wine. Most of all, there was an eager willingness to satisfy my desired wine exploration. It was evident that Fearing's expects to deliver a memorable and satisfying wine journey.

Wine Picks from An Evening of Wine and Roses 2014

Many tasting notes will originate from my home base of Tulsa. Recently, I attended An Evening of Wine and Roses, under a sunny sky in the Tulsa Rose Garden. After tasting almost fifty wines, here are my favorite discoveries:

1. Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia Bolgheri 2011 (Premier Tasting) - Intense, delicious, and begging for beef.
2. Highway 12 Carneros Highway Pinot Noir 2012 - A lively Carneros.
3. Bodegas Faustino I Gran Riserva Rioja 2001 (Premier Tasting) - Earthy and rustic, with a multitude of awards.
4. Bodegas La Candalaria Cubo Tempranillo 2011 - Straightforward value pick.
5. Tempus Alba Malbec 2011 - Balance of spices and jams.

Honorable Mention to Black Sheep Finds Holus Bolus Syrah 2011 from the Premier Tasting, and its inky octopus label.

Among restaurants, Mahogany Prime Steakhouse was the winner, serving up their standard event dish, a medium-rare, thickly-shredded prime rib. Old School Bagels offered a tasty dessert treat with samples of several of their mountainous cookies.