Van The Wine Man At SXSW

I am excited to announce that I will present an interactive workshop, Digital Engagement Prep List For Your Restaurant, on the opening day of SXSW 2016. SX is a colossal interactive, film, and music event, celebrating its thirtieth year in Austin, Texas. This will be the third year it features a food-focused track, SouthBites, and I will host one of the first SouthBites workshops. You can get a taste of the latest innovations and inspirations from the festival, even if you are not planning to attend: Enter your email address here to receive my SXSW Interactive report, including wine and dining finds. And, follow the action on Twitter: #SXSW #SXSWInteractive #DinerReady

A Digital Marketing Workshop For Restaurants

Click the image and enter your email address to receive my SXSW Interactive Report

In this workshop, we will conduct a strategic audit and make adjustments to restaurants' online images that accelerate engagement. Restaurants will leave ready to improve customer service, attract feedback, and drive reviews, resulting in loyalty and profits. 

These are examples of the questions we will answer:

Where should my restaurant focus to have the most influence with diners online?

How do I set up all these digital marketing elements to tell an attractive, consistent story to diners?

After I set them up, how do I manage all these profiles to engage and bring in more customers?

Who Should Attend?

Restaurant owners, chefs, and managers. Social media and P.R. personnel. Employees responsible for customer relations and service...Essentially anyone working with restaurants.

If you will be at SXSW, please join me!

Friday, March 11th, 2016 - 3:30-5:30 pm

Hilton Austin Downtown - 500 E. 4th St. - Room 412

Pre-register here, beginning February 17th.

Van The Wine Man's Most Popular - 2015

Here is a recap of my most popular posts of 2015:

Wine-O wall at Brian McClintic's Les Marchands

Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More

The SOMM star talked about managing his insane schedule, promoting winemaking in Santa Barbara, and his philosophy on wine service.

Wine Talk With Rajat Parr

The two-time James Beard Award winner and extraordinary wine taster discussed his four current winemaking projects and the importance of trying different wines to expand your palate.

Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine

The man behind The Grilled Cheese Truck has ambitious and creative plans for such a simple and delicious staple of life.

Sandhi and Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars

Rajat Parr sat me up in his tasting room to try several examples of the excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Santa Barbara County.

A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello

Favorite memories from a drive up the mountain, with Paul Draper, Monte Bello assemblage, and pieces of Ridge history.  

Attentive, Interested Service - Al Biernat's, Dallas

Attention to finer details is an element of service that moves a restaurant higher on my list. Al Biernat's of Dallas is one of the finer examples.

Porterhouse for Two

Al and his management team are continuously working the floor, actively scanning throughout all areas of the restaurant, seeking out opportunities to make diners feel welcome and appreciated. Outstanding service is an obvious priority, and on the rare occasions I have experienced anything sub-par, recovery has been impressive. Just how deeply does this importance of service stretch? 

On a Friday night, early for a reservation, my wife and I turned to the busy bar for a pre-dinner beverage. There must have been fifty people seated and crowded around the sweeping, half-moon shaped bar, but I lingered for only a few seconds at a far edge before one of the bartenders approached me. I asked for Buffalo Trace neat, and when he presented our drinks he said, "I'll only charge you for one drink. There wasn't enough (of the Bourbon) for a full drink." In the glass was enough that I would not have been disappointed had he not called attention to it. 

A few minutes later, thinking I would have a full pour of another brand, I turned back toward the bar. The same barman met me while squeezing his way out of the bar into the crowd. "I was just going to check if we have another bottle." he said to me, hurrying past. He reappeared after a few moments with a large smile, new bottle in one hand, and an already fully-poured glass in the other. He was understandably pleased to delight me, even as he promptly turned his attention to another customer.

This is the attentiveness of just one member of the staff, shown in ten minutes in the chaotic bar, while simultaneously caring for dozens of others. Attention to detail is deeply ingrained in service at Al's, and continues in every aspect and throughout the dining event. Observant and interested service around excellent steak and seafood elevates an Al's experience to the top.

Al Biernat's - 4217 Oak Lawn Ave. Dallas, TX  75219

A Year Of Bests - Restaurants

A tasting menu of my favorite flavors from a year of Van The Wine Man.

Getting Started

Salade d'Auvergne at Les Halles Downtown, New York City

Spicy Herb Spring Rolls at Chada Thai and Wine, Las Vegas

Spicy Steak Chili at Elway's, Denver

Speakeasy Tartarre at 21 Club, New York City

Pasta at Elio's, New York City

Main Events

Sweet Chicken Chile Quesadilla at Kogi BBQ, Los Angeles

Bacon-Wrapped Shrimp and Grits at Mr. B's, New Orleans

OFS Dirty South at One Flew South, Atlanta

Chicken Bonnne Femme at Tujague's, New Orleans

Steak Frites at DB Brasserie, Las Vegas

Steak For Two at Peter Luger, Brooklyn

To The Finish

Profiterolles and Coffee at Chez Nous, Austin

Hazelnut Paris Brest at Republique, Los Angeles

One Year Of Wine

Today marks one year of Van The Wine Man online.

At Peter Luger - Reservations in background

It has been fun traveling from coast to coast, connecting with many people responsible for delivering outstanding wines and restaurant service. Then, meeting even more consumers like myself, and sharing our experiences. The exploration was exhilarating, and memories satisfying.

I am even more excited about the next year. This first year was about proving to myself that I could keep the blog consistent, and make it relevant. Now, I expect an upgrade, from more helpful and timely content, to greater interaction with fellow and future winos. 

Good wine, and learning all about it, continues to become more easily accessible. I will continue on the path of guiding you to memorable and satisfying wining and dining experiences, and hope you will share your discoveries. Thank you for going on this journey with me.

Service/Hospitality/Tip-Included

Service-included is a conversation I previously addressed in a post highlighting Camino in Oakland. A sudden surge in relevance came last week, with Danny Meyer's announcement that his Union Square Hospitality Group will systematically eliminate tipping across his restaurant empire. Meyer's former partner Tom Colicchio initiated a similar move at his flagship restaurant in September. While increasing numbers of restaurants experiment with a variety of service compensation policies, these bold steps by some of the bigger names in fine dining set the stage for widespread adoption of included hospitality. This leads to important questions for consumers:

• How much will service-included restaurants raise prices, and will it be greater than typical gratuity?
• Will the price increases result in better-trained and longer-tenured wait staffs, that know me and how deliver truly satisfying service?
• Will included service prove to be worth it, consistently outstanding, and always exceeding my expectations?
• How will non-adopting restaurants adjust, depleted of the best available servers, and what will it mean for diners?

What will you think if your favorite restaurant goes no-tipping, and increases prices twenty-percent? Just how good will service need to become for service-included to succeed?

Pour The Wine - Simple Service

Over-pouring of wine may be the norm, but what if instead there was no pouring? Recently, a server in an established restaurant opened my bottle of wine, sat it on the table, and departed. I waited a few minutes before pouring it myself, determining it had been forgotten. I kept waiting for the server to offer to refill the glass, but it was not going to happen. After removing the cork, wine service was over for the evening, and I poured the entire bottle over the course of the meal. The server handled food and water, I did not witness any other bottles of wine being served, and overall service was agreeable. I was left to wonder.

A server in a restaurant where a bottle of wine is frequently on the ticket ought to be prepared to pour it. Just not too much.

Westbank Grill - Four Seasons Jackson Hole

The Four Seasons Jackson Hole is an ultra-luxury resort in a breathtaking setting, located near the base of the Grand Teton mountain range. Somehow, Westbank Grill exceeds these surroundings by delivering an excellent wine and dining experience.

The Food: A perfectly prepared 32oz dry aged American “Kobe” Wagyu bone-in beef rib eye with grilled vegetables and roasted mushrooms with Wyoming Whiskey, rosemary, and garlic confit. Five intriguing sauces accompanied the beef, including huckleberry pudding and horseradish cream. 

The Wine: Jackson Hole Winery The Outlaw Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, a local product. Sourced from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, it showed dark fruit and a velvety smooth finish, and meshed well with the beef. The winery does production nearby, at over 6,000 feet!

The Service: A true team effort was flawless from greeting to goodnight. Several staff members seamlessly transitioned throughout the night after our initial lead server became ill. Had she  not made such a strong first impression, we would not have noticed that our service was being managed on the fly. There was no indication that anything went off-plan. 

The Atmosphere: From an open booth featuring what must be the restaurant's best view, I felt completely at ease in the large dining room. It is the epitome of a luxurious while rustic theme, with a majestic stone fireplace dominating the center of the room, and floor-to-ceiling windows on either side overlooking the mountain and ski lifts. 

Westbank Grill in Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole - 7680 Granite Loop Rd., Teton Village, WY  83025

Elway's, Denver - Winning Wine And Service

Visits to two of John Elway's upscale steakhouses in Denver could not have been under more opposite circumstances, yet both yielded outstanding experiences worth repeating. 

Elway's Downtown

First, my wife and I were thrilled with an anniversary dinner at Elway's Downtown, inside the Ritz-Carlton. Arriving for a reservation, we were recognized and seated immediately in a cozy, semi-private booth, complete with flowers. Several members of management and staff cared for us throughout the evening, with Executive Sommelier Gail Oversteg taking the lead. She gave excellent recommendations from the wine list and food menu. A pair of truly prime steaks were perfectly prepared, and we are now loyal users of Elway's steak seasoning. Gail continued to exceed expectations throughout the evening. After I inquired about the aerator she used to decant our Burgundy, she produced a new, boxed and gift-bagged version of the device that we gladly purchased at cost. 

On another trip, we made a spontaneous drop-in to Elway's at the airport, on a game day no less. Anxious about a short layover, yet hungry for great food, we cautioned the hostess of our dilemma. She mentioned that the menu would be limited (no prime steak this trip) for such a brief meal, but assured us it could be done. Our waiter, Andrew, was aware of our time frame when he introduced himself, and reassured us we were in good shape. A strong list of wines by the glass included selections like Guigal Cotes du Rhone and Acacia Pinot Noir. The Spicy Steak Chili was exactly that, with chopped chunks of beef bringing serious heat. Andrew presented the check immediately after our meal. We were in, out, and fully satisfied in twenty-five minutes! 

Completely different experiences in scope, with identical happiness. Elway's has a high-five recommendation for wine, food, and service.

Elway's Downtown - Ritz-Carlton 1881 Curtis St. Denver, CO  80202

Elway's at DIA - Denver International Airport, B Concourse

Don't Judge - Simple Service

I have a friend who is a member of the Joseph Phelps Preferred Wine Club, and has verticals of Insignia and Backus Cabernet in storage. You might not pick him out of a lineup to be the wine collector. I witnessed a server in a full-service restaurant with a solid selection of wine offer my friend every drink available except the wine list. After the list was asked for and delivered, the server highlighted only wines by the glass. For whatever reason, this server had determined my friend was not a serious wine drinker. 

A server in a restaurant with any wine program at all should have the list at the ready, if not on the table, when making introductions. After that, there are simply too many potential unknowns to judge a diner on appearance. If the server had offered the list going in, he might not have found out about my friend’s collection of wine, but he would certainly have known he was likely to order a bottle. When selling a full-service experience that is attracting sophisticated diners, it is a good rule to expect that they want your best, regardless of appearance. Or at least that they want to see your wine list.

Half-Price Wine On Sundays At Garozzo's, Kansas City

I am rarely in favor of discounting by full-service restaurants, but Garozzo's of Kansas City has a wine promotion that works splendidly: Half-Priced Wine Every Sunday

While enjoying your Chicken Spiedini on Sunday nights, you can take your pick of Garozzo's wines for half the listed prices. It is a sizable list, with numerous Italians to choose from, and is already reasonably priced. With the Sunday discount, your bottle may be less than retail, where you may have difficulty finding some of the selections. On my original Sunday trip, I found a 1998 Anselma Barolo for $40. Already brick in color, with classic tar and roses, and a sweet finish, this was the wine that solidified my Nebbiolo love. 

Once you hit the one-hundred-dollar bottles, you get fifty-dollars off, but no wines are excluded from discounting, and Garozzo's has maintained Half-Priced Wine Sundays for many years. A great deal you can count on for wine, delicious food, and a "family" atmosphere...It is a combination that is difficult to top. 

Garozzo's Ristorante - 526 Harrison St., Kansas City, MO  64106

Extreme Accommodation - Raya At Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel

Solid restaurant service is often accomplished by simply accommodating a diner's request, and the best in the business know how to over-deliver on all expectations. But few achieve stunning service, which my wife and I experienced at Raya inside the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel.

Ready And Willing Service

Stunning views of the ocean 150 feet below

We were not guests of the hotel, nor were they expecting us. It was a spontaneous visit while on a coastal drive, with expectations only of "something good at a Ritz." But it was three in the afternoon, the restaurants were closed, and it would be almost two hours before one of the bars opened. We saw a busy server inside Raya, and asked if there were anywhere on the property we could get wine and a snack. He was easy-going and engaging, appearing to empathize with our plight. He invited us into the empty restaurant, where he showed us the fantastic views of the beach and ocean below, before asking us to take a seat at a table. He said he would see what he could arrange for us.

Above And Beyond Service

When he returned with waters, he asked if we had any specific wines or snacks in mind. We were open to anything considering the circumstances, but he pressed us on wine. I mentioned that I had been on a French Syrah trend. He departed again, returning shortly with a platter of cheeses, nuts, and olives, simple and satisfying. He explained that Raya did not have any French wines by the glass, but that he had something in the works. Soon, he was back again, this time with three glasses of French reds, including a Syrah, from the neighboring wine bar. 

We were shocked at the lengths to which this lone waiter went to give us an unforgettable experience. He looked after us for over an hour, while tending to his planned duties. If this is how the Raya staff treats drop-ins, the treatment when they are actually open for business must be special indeed!

Raya, Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel - One Ritz-Carlton Dr., Dana Point, CA  92629

Italian Wine Food And Family - Jimmy's Food Store, Dallas

Jimmy's Food Store is a family-owned neighborhood market, situated in Old East Dallas between Deep Ellum and Lower Greenville. The history is what you would imagine of an Italian family business, passing from one generation to the next, and focusing more, then completely, on Italian food and wines. The tempo of the staff is fast-moving and straightforward, brief but complete with information and recommendations. There is a melting pot of customers roaming about at any given time, grocery shopping, picking up lunch, eating in the store, and drinking wine! 

Italian Market, Butcher, and Deli

Hot Italian Sausage

The grocery and butcher stand are packed with imported Italian products and fresh foods. Pastas, gravy, bread, produce...Try a few cuts of Piemontese beef on your grill. And if you are not waiting until later, be sure to experience a sandwich from the deli. Hot Italian Sausage, with cheeses, sweet peppers, and onions is my pick. There is the Italian Stallion, Muffuletta, even a Cuban, all made fresh and delicious. You can find a seat at a table in front of the store, soak up the bustling activity and conversation going on around you, and savor your sandwich with a glass of wine.

Wine...Italian Wine

Yes, wine is served by the glass in the store. Very good wine, for a price of four dollars. It comes from a large-format bottle or box behind the counter. But the real wine fills several aisle of the market. Almost any Italian varietal is available, with a full-range but still at very reasonable prices. And there are only Italian wines. There will always be several bargain picks, perhaps a half-price table, and potentially significant discounts on some great Barolos, Brunellos, and Amarones. This is one of the reasons you want to subscribe to the newsletter below. Depending on timing, you might find autographed bottles in the racks from famous winemakers that have visited Jimmy's.

Winemaker Dinners

Jimmy's regularly hosts influential figures in Italian winemaking for dinners in the Circolo del Vino, the wine room. "Generous" is the best description of these events, which are open to the public. It is an opportunity to meet and learn from some of wine's big names, and socialize with a group of like-minded Italian wine lovers. Several food courses are accompanied by even more wine courses, in a festive atmosphere, at a steal of a price. There might be door prizes, or a bottle of wine to go for everyone. The email newsletter is the way in to these events.

You are not likely to simply run across Jimmy's unless you are looking for it. If you happen to be in or passing through Dallas, scout it out in advance. You will be pleased with the effort!

Sign up to receive email invitations to winemaker dinners, wine and food specials, and more from Jimmy's.

Jimmy's Food Store - 4901 Bryan Street, Dallas, TX  75206

Carny Tactics Are Not For Restaurants

I am all for a trip to the fair, especially with wine increasingly available at such events. But use of the refined techniques witnessed in food stands and gaming booths in a full-service dining establishment is unexpected and irritating. I recently experienced a complete assault of carny activity in one setting.

• Front Man - There was a man on the street in front of the restaurant, quietly hailing passers-by to come inside, where they could "be seated immediately". I attempted to keep walking, but when my wife and I paused to look at the menu, we were gently, enthusiastically herded inside. We saw the presumed maitre d' pass the man cash as we were seated and he returned to the street.
• Purveyor of...Wine - A server approached promptly, inquiring if we would be interested in wine with dinner. An extensive pitch ensued, proclaiming the variety of wines available, the deals that were offered, but most-strenuously the popularity and value of the house wines. I asked what the house wines were. "Red and white", was the answer. I asked the varietal of the red, so he insisted on bringing a taste. He returned with a new bottle, opened it without presenting it to us, and poured us both full glasses. At no time did he offer a list of the great selection of wines. We tasted the wine and accepted the bottle. 
• Flower Petal-er - On the heels of the wine man was what can only be described as a sweet little old lady with a bouquet of fresh flowers. "Flower for the beautiful lady?" Ten dollars was the price for the single rose, but Wife of Wine Man was smiling.
• Accordion Player - Throughout the evening, an elderly gentleman made his way from table to table to bar, and back again, playing the same three tunes on his accordion. When he arrived at our table, while asking if we could play a song for us, and pausing thoughtfully before choosing one of his three songs, he never broke eye-contact with my wife. Another ten dollars.
• Photographer - After our meal, while I was already anxious for the check, we were approached by a gentleman who offered to take our picture, saying only, "Picture?" I declined. Apparently not understanding, he continued, repeating again, "Picture?" We accepted the Polaroid, for the small sum of ten dollars.
• Gratuity Included - After an extended wait, our server presented the check, which included a twenty-percent tip, then promptly disappeared. The manager, who thus far had hovered over the dining room the entire evening, was also missing. I waited briefly, then paid the check with cash, down to the penny.  

It was as though a team of carnies separated from their circus had taken control of this restaurant. I was a willing participant, and have no excuses. But afterward, all I could think about was the inattention by the server, which was apparently intentional to allow for the interruptions by the regularly-scheduled peddlers. And that I paid forty dollars more than I had planned for this "experience". The only positive was that my wife thought the side show was fun, and hung the photo in her office. Should I encounter another operation of this sort, I will do my part by avoiding it. Hopefully such tactics are relegated to the midways of amusement parks.

Have you experienced a borderline con in a restaurant? 

One Flew South, Atlanta - First Class Fast

Any time I book a flight that has any layover in Atlanta, I get excited. Yes it is always busy, and often my flight is delayed, but that leaves more time to soak up the southern comforts of One Flew South. Self-described as "travel inspired provisions", with "spirited global fare", it is uncommonly good food and drink to find in an airport, or anywhere. 

OFS Dirty South

The menus feature unique twists and combinations. The "OFS" Dirty South is my favorite. An open-face meatloaf sandwich, with pimento cheese, spinach, bacon, BBQ sauce, and a lightly fried egg on top. Or the Kentuckyaki Springer Chicken Fried Rice, with pickled okra. Then there is 

The bar is a special place. There is the strong and reasonably priced wine list, with over thirty by the glass selections from around the world. A long list and variety of Bourbons and Rye Whiskeys available. Innovative cocktails are seemingly endless, or there are the more than properly prepared classics. The personalities, though, make the OFS bar what it is, moving with impressive speed, while never appearing out of control, and engaging in charming conversation. 

The diverse service staff all know how to work quickly, yet still deliver a fine dining feeling. My servers have often inquired about flight times to be sure I would enjoy my meal and have time to get to my gate.

Even if you are not in concourse E, the trains between concourses are fast, and it is worth the extra effort. Next time you fly through Atlanta, let One Flew South slow things down for you.

One Flew South - Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Concourse E

A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin

I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.

Intriguing Diddle-Speak

My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.

But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk. 

Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price. 

This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.

Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting

I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular. 

The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.

I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.

Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table. 

Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA  98101

How To Make A Comeback - Simple Service

I visited Vince Young Steakhouse in downtown Austin on a night it was busy and understaffed, and service was poor throughout. There was no one to check on my table, refill water, or replace a utensil. A nearby table of suited businessmen drinking multiple bottles of not cheap wine repeatedly raised their hands to get the attention of a staff member. It was one of the worst fine dining service experiences I have endured, putting a real damper on a solid meal. 

The primary reason Vince Young's name is on a steakhouse is for making a comeback. Like Vince's National Championship-winning run on fourth down with time running out, my server made a similar heroic play. As I squinted at the check, calculating what his penalty would be for the overall lack of service, he approached. He apologized for the poor service, admitted he had no explanation for why he had no help on the floor, and assured me it was not normal. He asked me to return another time, and that if I asked for him he would make certain I enjoyed a proper experience. 

I immediately felt better about the entire ordeal. And, I swung from categorizing the restaurant as "off the list" to giving it another chance when I returned to the area. The simplest closing remarks can make or break a dining experience, so they must be well chosen and timely. In this case, they were a game-saver.

Vince Young Steakhouse - 301 San Jacinto Blvd., Austin, TX  78701

Wine Talk With Rajat Parr

Rajat Parr has invested two decades in restaurant and wine service and oversight, wine education, and now wine making, to become one of the world's most influential Sommeliers. While juggling all these responsibilities and collecting the industry's highest honors, he remains abundantly outgoing and gracious. Clearly, he lives the quote of Mahatma Gandhi that adorns his email signature: "The best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others." Here are highlights from conversation he shared with me surrounding his passion for wine.

On how he got started with wine...

I was born and grew up in India, and went to hotel school. I always loved cooking, but there was not a cooking school in India at the time. So I went to hotel school, and then I was accepted and moved to New York to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I was there I joined the wine club, and I fell in love with wine. So my focus shifted to wine, and I started working, and moved to San Francisco and worked with Larry Stone at a restaurant called Rubicon. I started as a busboy and moved up to Sommelier with Larry as his assistant. Then I was Sommelier at Fifth Floor, and then Michael Mina, and opened around twenty restaurants. I was already making wine, so I did both from ’04 to 2012, and then I finally moved full-time to Santa Barbara. 

So you have four different wine projects. I can see why you had get out of restaurant business. How do you manage all of them?

Ha ha! I don’t know. Yes, two estate projects and two negociant or purchased grape projects. There is Domaine de la Cote in Santa Rita Hills, and Seven Springs Vineyards in Oregon that are estate. Then we have Sandhi, and Maison L'Oree in Burgundy, small negociants. All of these things just happened very naturally and nothing was forced. We have great partners, and we work it out. We have fun doing it. We have a great time working with Seven Springs, an old vineyard, planted in the mid-eighties. It’s pretty great to work with an almost thirty-year old vineyard. Then Domain de la Cote is a new vineyard, planted in ’06. Pretty great to see the potential of the young vineyard. Hopefully it will be great in twenty or thirty years.

On Santa Barbara and the new California wine scene...

I always loved Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and I think you can grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pretty well in Santa Barbara. You can make wines which have good levels of high-acidity, very vibrant wines. Sonoma was another option, and Santa Cruz. They all are different. I just felt Santa Barbara was more my style. When Domaine de la Cote was planted, early on, I was quite astounded by the results from the vineyard, so I decided to go all in.

In Pursuit of Balance was supposed to be just a small gathering or tasting. Me and my friend Jasmine Hirsch, when she was just starting to work with her family vineyard, and I had just started Sandhi. And we said let’s do a tasting, get some like-minded people together. So we did a small tasting of twenty people in 2011. It was a big success. There were a lot of people interested in listening to what’s happening in California, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot, and that small tasting now has a pretty big following. There was a great article, one of the best articles written, by Anne Crable. Are you on Twitter? I put it on Twitter. One of the most informative articles I’ve seen. 

What advice would you give to the wine drinking community, with so much good wine and new trends?

I think that the most important thing is to have an open mind, and to try different things. Sometimes people just always drink the same wines they drink, and stay in their comfort zone. I think it’s important to open your mind, try different things. Different wines with different foods, and see. The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing. That way you can really explore new things, try some fun wines, and learn more. The younger generation (is like this) for sure. The Millennials are very curious. Quite different than the Baby Boomers. They like the classics. Which, there is nothing wrong. But if you want to learn more, you must have an open mind. 

Rajat was honored with the 2011 James Beard Award for Beverage for his book, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World's Top Wine Professionals. I asked how things have changed since it was published:

I think when we wrote the book, we didn’t really account for so many young sommeliers now. The core of the book is still really relevant. There are a lot of regions that have really developed in the past five years. Things are changing rapidly in the wine world. I think we will have to do a new edition to update all the new wines. Australia for example. California was really small at the time, and now there is so much more. I think the core story and core content are still really relevant. Definitely that. And I am working on a new book as well. 

When he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional, I asked for his comments on a second Award:

The James Beard Award means a lot to me. It's a huge honor and an endorsement by the food and wine community. I feel humbled!

See notes from my tasting of Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi here.

New Orleans Best Wine, Service, And Dining

Wine

I tasted dozens of wines at the New Orleans Wine And Food Experience Grand Tasting. Find the full report on my favorites here.

Service

Ramos Gin Fizz at The Sazerac Bar

1. The Sazerac Bar at The Roosevelt New Orleans - Guys behind the bar had strong personalities to pair with excellent drink preparation, which came with flare and entertaining or educational commentary. As high-brow as it may be, they were not above taking extra care of guests. More details here.
2. Mr. B's - A serious approach to southern hospitality, with a smooth-running team effort. And no napkins left lying! See the full review.
3. Tujague's - A one-man show of service from our energetic, authentic, young server. Best line of the trip: "This wasn't Ralph's best day." Speaking of the whole fried chicken he had just served up. Low-key, under the radar humor was interlaced with completely efficient care of the table. 
4. Teddy's Cafe at The Roosevelt - I thought about grouping the three Roosevelt establishments, but they all brought their own excellence. Teddy's was all about friendly speed. And great coffee.
5. Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt - From hosting unannounced, large, late-night groups, to freshly brewed, large coffee to go, the Lounge's service was as good as its live entertainment.

 

Tujague's Chicken Bonne Femme

Dining

1. Mr. B's - I still taste the savory/sweetness of the Bacon Wrapped Shrimp and Grits.
2. Tujague's - Chicken Bonne Femme, an experience to be had.
3. Galatoire's - The famed Godchaux Salad lived up to the hype, with crab and a coarse, spicy Creole Mustard Vinaigrette.
4. Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt - For the darkest, thickest, tastiest Smoked Chicken Gumbo.
5. Clover Grill - More of an experience, but still a solid breakfast or burger any time. Open 24/7.

Cocktail

Anything at The Sazerac Bar - I was deep into my Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye. Ramos Gin Fizzes and Sazeracs flowed, but I also witnessed on-the-spot bar chemistry concoctions, and straightforward, traditional cocktails of all sorts.