When Spouses Disagree About Wine
It is fortunate for me that my wife is just as big a wine lover as I am. Unfortunately, that does not guarantee we are always in agreement. With the dog days of summer upon us, one of those disagreements, the drinking of white wine, arises regularly. I enjoy a variety of whites. For an opposing point of view, I am happy to introduce my first guest wino, Wife of Wine Man…
Instead of white wine
So it's hotter than a Dallas billionaire's trophy wife believes she is. This raises a dilemma in the Van The Wine Man household. Wife of Wine Man (that's me) doesn't like white wine.
I know, I know. Blah blah. Every now and then an extremely chilled Sauvignon Blanc, that has strong essence of grapefruit and/or tastes like it was rolling around with those stones you used to get in your jeans pockets in the eighties, since the eighties, will work. Other than that, I'm out.
(My undaunted wine hero did chill a red for me recently more than the norm. And you know what? Loved it!)
All the pros always tout “no rules” and “drink what you like”, so there you go! What's your wine answer to fry an egg on the sidewalk temps?
New Orleans Wine And Food Experience
The Saturday Grand Tasting on Memorial Day weekend was a wine and dining circus. Although inside the New Orleans Convention Center, the layout and lighting gave it a giant tent-like feel, microphones blared tasting notes and cooking demonstrations from every angle, and a low, steady roar of the crowd (or was it lions and tigers?) carried on throughout. I enjoyed a fast-paced tasting tour, although the crowds slowed me considerably, preventing the volume I would have preferred. Several vendors ran out of product completely, and even packed up and left their areas, as early as halfway through the event. But these are the risks when attempting serious tasting in a large crowd. Standout wines included:
- Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 - Bright red berries with a rustic, dry finish. $17
- Chateau De Chantegrive Graves Blanc 2011 - Refreshing and light Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, with honeysuckle. $22
- Clarksburg Wine Company Petite Sirah 2011 - Thick and inky, with dark berries, subtle spices, and a vanilla hint. $26
- Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2014 - Earthy, raspberry and spice. $22
- Canard Vineyard Adam's Blend 2012 - (link to 2011 notes) The second Canard wine that has caught my attention in as many months. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with red fruit to spare, woody, and chocolate notes. $65
Post-Holiday Wine Shopping On A Budget
If your wine budget is short, here's an international mixed case of available and affordable bottles to enjoy while you replenish your savings:
- Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon - $16
- The Black Chook McLaren Vale Shiraz - $18
- Tommasi Valpolicella Rafael - $17
- Charles Smith Wines The Velvet Devil Merlot - $15
- Silvertop Malbec - $10
- M. Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone Belleruche - $15
- Michael Pozzan Wines Annabella Carneros Pinot Noir - $15
- Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay - $14
- Gruet Winery Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10
- Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - $18
- Bodega Del Abad Dom Bueno Godello - $15
- Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett - $19
The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel of DB Brasserie
Devin Zendel is an Advanced Sommelier and Head Sommelier at db Brasserie in Las Vegas. For the past fifteen years, he has served at acclaimed Vegas restaurants including Wolfgang Puck, Carnevino, and Eiffel Tower Restaurant. Before a recent dinner, he shared some of his experiences with wine, and insightful comments about the demanding lifestyle required to succeed as a top wine professional in an extremely competitive city.
Devin Zendel pours "Daniel" Brut at db Brasserie
What drew you to wine and led to wine as a career?
"My mother and aunt drank wine daily while I was growing up. I was young, drinking terrible beer, then I had a Napa Sauv Blanc that was an eye-opening experience for me. I was working at Puck as a server, and became fascinated with the world of wine. You learn how big wine is, and that it is never ending."
"I get to drink wine all the time, and business travel became a pleasure. I can design a floor plan, or I can taste five Burgundies."
What is it like working for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas?
"Previously I had been a floor Somm. db Brasserie is a chance for the total package. There is an old school mentality here. The most important thing is still food service and the total guest experience. The staff is inspired, impassioned. It stands out among the mostly union restaurants on the Strip."
"Coaching the staff on by the glass knowledge is critical. We make sure they taste any new wines, give them technical sheets so that they know all the wines, and role play with wine presentation. Food as well. We are big on their continuing education, and I plan for full, around the world training as the restaurant and staff grow."
"Vegas is very competitive, with lots of movement among somms. A friend of mine said one year in Vegas is like three years in (another large city). But it's nice, too. There are lots of events and people to meet. You don't want to leave the events, even though it's late and you're going to pay for it early in the morning, because there are so many more people to meet."
"It's a tough profession to get started in. You kind of have to be the guy in the corner with the "Will Work for Wine" sign. It's different now. The day of the old stuffy sommelier in a tuxedo, with only a couple of guys doing it, is over. Even before the documentary, it was changing, with the somms being the coolest people in the restaurant. Since the documentary, the Court says applications are up forty-percent in the last two years. Now, if you're not established, you have even more competition. No one will pay you at the start, and it's hard to break into. Without Certified or Advanced credentials, some jobs won't even interview you. It's a necessity."
How is the quest for Master Sommelier going?
"I've passed theory, which is good, because that is all textbooks and studying, and no life. They said I was close on service last time. Service isn't really about service. It's about thoughtlessly, flawlessly, executing perfect service. There's cutting the foil perfectly, pouring the wine perfectly, but it's not about that. All of that just happens. In my last service exam, they asked me about (a particular) Barbaresco. But it's not a Barbaresco, it's a Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba. Then they asked if (winery) makes any other wines. All of this conversation was going on while I was doing the other things. And I was on the clock. It's about theory. MS is a way of life, and you don't pass unless you live it. We're the weirdoes sneaking champagne in a plastic bottle into a movie. It's always about the wine you're drinking."
"It's taxing. You are always on when you're on the floor. I love working in the restaurant, interacting with tables, but I can see as you get older wanting to get off the floor. It's hard labor. I've had to ice my back, or wonder why my elbow is sore. There are financial considerations, perks and other opportunities once you become a Master. You can be an author, a speaker, a teacher. I think about when I was just getting started, in a big room full of people working on Certified. Once you're a Master you still have to earn teaching privileges in the Court. But to be the one teaching the room full of candidates, that sounds pretty amazing."
Read about my excellent wine and service experience with Devin and db Brasserie here.
Wine and Turkey Talk
Turkey Time
If there is a traditional meal of turkey and all its trimmings in your near future, does it require a similarly predictable wine? I think not. The likelihood of a larger group of people with a multitude of tastes and preferences is high, and the ease of accessibility to experiment with diverse and affordable wines that work for such a meal has never been greater. Why not broaden out in your wine and food pairing experience? Here are a variety of wine styles and recommendations, from expected to out of the norm, for turkey dinner on any day.
Reds
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Bright, with dominant red berries, spices, and hints of sweetness, even cola.
- Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - $20
- Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $52
Cote de Nuits Burgundy - Elegant expressions of Pinot Noir, complex, and earthy. Narrowing further, Nuits-St-Georges are typically reasonable in price.
Washington Syrah - Heat up with Rhone-style beauties aplenty. If Syrah is too hot and heavy for you, try a Washington Grenache or Cabernet Franc.
- Abeja Estate Syrah - $40
- K Vintners The Boy Grenache - $45
Whites
Oregon is turning out increasing numbers of intriguing white wines, with one to fit any occasion.
Sancerre - Aromatic and refreshing Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Champagne - Bubbles and the bird. It may surprise you.
What is your style: Traditionalist, contrarian, or both? Share your favorite wine and turkey finds.
Wine Picks For Your "Thirst"
I recently tasted newly released wines in the portfolio of Thirst Wine Merchants. Here are my standout picks:
- Bodegas LAN Vina Lanciano Reserva 2007 - Spicy, chewy Spanish Tempranillo/Mazuelo blend. SRP $25
- Sean Minor Point North Pinot Noir 2012 - I'm a big fan of their Carneros Pinots, and their Oregon offering is a winner! SRP $22
- Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc Estate Vineyard 2013 - Delicious, gravely with a mouthful of citrus. SRP $40
- K Vintners Clifton Hill Syrah Wahluke Slope 2011 - Bold (of course) with smoked meats and spices, and it sticks around. SRP $40
- Feraud-Brunel Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2011 - Solid Cotes-du-Rhone, with tobacco spice and leather. SRP $18
