Van The Wine Man's Most Popular - 2015
Here is a recap of my most popular posts of 2015:
Wine-O wall at Brian McClintic's Les Marchands
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
The SOMM star talked about managing his insane schedule, promoting winemaking in Santa Barbara, and his philosophy on wine service.
Wine Talk With Rajat Parr
The two-time James Beard Award winner and extraordinary wine taster discussed his four current winemaking projects and the importance of trying different wines to expand your palate.
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
The man behind The Grilled Cheese Truck has ambitious and creative plans for such a simple and delicious staple of life.
Sandhi and Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars
Rajat Parr sat me up in his tasting room to try several examples of the excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Santa Barbara County.
A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello
Favorite memories from a drive up the mountain, with Paul Draper, Monte Bello assemblage, and pieces of Ridge history.
Are You Trying Different Wines?
If you simply like wine, should you feel the need to expand your tasting experiences? There are numerous practical reasons to do so. All your current favorites will eventually become unavailable, so you will need replacements! Then there is this advice from Rajat Parr:
Impromptu tasting at Coppia, Portland, OR
"The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing."
If you think you only like a limited few wines, you may be surprised at how many more wines you could be liking. Get out and try something strange, intimidating, or pink. For each wine you are drinking today, there are dozens more that you will find equally pleasing and exciting to explore and share.
Wine From Unexpected Places
Wines often surprise with unheard of grapes, but unexpected stories also surround their points of origin. Check out this delicious tour across continents:
Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2013
Made from Nerello Mascalese, grown on the "northern slopes" of Mount Etna, Sicily, the largest active volcano in Europe. Dirty and stony, for sure! - $22
Domaine de Fontsainte La Demoiselle 2013
Not so surprising a place, (Languedoc-Roussillon, France) but with antique vines planted by the Romans, on a thermal spring. A tasty blend of Carignan, Grenache, and Mourvedre. - $20
Campolargo Valdazar 2009
Trincadeira da Bairrada, Touriga Nacional, Baga, and Tinta Barroca grapes from Portugal. That sums it up. Ripe and earthy, with lasting length. - $20
Channing Daughters Rosato Di Cabernet Franc 2014
A Long Island, New York winery, with a reputation for experimentation. Like this Rosé made from 100% Cabernet Franc. Crispy citrus flavors and bone dry. - $20
Lieu Dit Pinot Noir Santa Ynez Valley 2013
Sommeliers like Eric Railsback flocking to make wine in the Santa Barbara area is no surprise. The volume of fantastic wines, and that they remain undiscovered by the mainstream, is another story. Bright red cherries, with acidity and a fantastic finish. - $40
The Wine Community-Building Power of SOMM
Passionate wine community following a SOMM screening
Whenever I view SOMM with people that are seeing it for the first time, the audience reaction reminds me just how emotionally-charged the film is. This is especially so with responses in a crowded theater. The amplified "Awwwws" and gasps during the scenes where the sommeliers receive the results of their Master Sommelier exams, or when we learn they are never told the correct identity of the tasting wines, are particularly stirring. These collective, engaged expressions create a warm sense of comaraderie, that everyone in the audience is going through the testing process together with the somms.
The sense of community lingers after the film, as people gather over their glasses to compare viewing notes. Conversations carry on about the talent and commitment of the somms, how unbelievably rigorous the MS program must be, or favorite lines like Brian McClintic's "...tannins that ripped your face off!" The best observations are of how the film has inspired the viewers to taste and educate themselves about a broader scope of wines. Question and answer sessions lead to deeper discussions, with notes recorded for future reference. New friendships are initiated, with plans set in motion to share further in the mutual love of wine. Wine brings passionate people together, and SOMM escalates wine's societal effects.
SOMM is a special kind of film for wine lovers, and the show will go on: SOMM: Into The Bottle will premier as the opening feature of the Napa Valley Film Festival on November 11th, 2015. It will star many of the wine superheroes from the original cast, and if the initial teaser is any indication, the same powerful emotional impact from the first film carries on as well. Follow me for more details on the sequel as they become available.
Download SOMM or buy it on DVD
View my previous post: SOMM - The Addictively Emotional Wine Film
Chance Meetings With Winemakers
I met Jeff and Stephanie Lippencott by chance at lunch in a hotel where we were staying. Jeff is a composer, responsible for music accompaniment to numerous top-rated television programs. Later, as I sat at the bar reading Rajat Parr's Secrets Of The Sommeliers, Jeff sat next to me, and asked what had me reading the book. I explained my passion for wine, my blog, and working to share the love. "I make wine!" he exclaimed.
Jeff enthusiastically described cultivating a small vineyard over the past decade in Southern California, from which he now produces Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a red blend under the One Vine Four Branches label. Stephanie recounted the depth of resources and research that have been invested in learning about winemaking. They once hired a Master Sommelier to gain entrance to and escort them through barrel rooms of the first growth chateaux of Bordeaux. Jeff is hands-on throughout the entire winemaking process of growing, harvesting, barreling, and bottling his wines, which contain only juice from his grapes. Annual yield determines whether the wines will be single varietal or blends. An early effort, the 2010 Syrah, won a gold medal in the Los Angeles Cellarmasters home winemaking competition, and a silver medal in Wine Maker Magazine's home winemakers competition. He expressed his excitement over recently receiving a shipment of new, custom-made, French Oak barrels for use with his 2015 vintage, which will be a blend appropriately entitled Maestro. While still very limited in volume, Jeff's "hobby" has grown from sharing a few bottles with friends and clients, to making sizable philanthropic gifts.
I love to meet winemakers and hear their inspiring stories, and the surprise aspect of this encounter provided an additional thrill. It was an exhilarating conversation that came about entirely by chance, even after our initial introduction. More wines available logically means there are more people making it, so remain alert to wine-minded people you run into. You never know when that person sitting nearby is a winemaker!
Elway's, Denver - Winning Wine And Service
Visits to two of John Elway's upscale steakhouses in Denver could not have been under more opposite circumstances, yet both yielded outstanding experiences worth repeating.
Elway's Downtown
First, my wife and I were thrilled with an anniversary dinner at Elway's Downtown, inside the Ritz-Carlton. Arriving for a reservation, we were recognized and seated immediately in a cozy, semi-private booth, complete with flowers. Several members of management and staff cared for us throughout the evening, with Executive Sommelier Gail Oversteg taking the lead. She gave excellent recommendations from the wine list and food menu. A pair of truly prime steaks were perfectly prepared, and we are now loyal users of Elway's steak seasoning. Gail continued to exceed expectations throughout the evening. After I inquired about the aerator she used to decant our Burgundy, she produced a new, boxed and gift-bagged version of the device that we gladly purchased at cost.
On another trip, we made a spontaneous drop-in to Elway's at the airport, on a game day no less. Anxious about a short layover, yet hungry for great food, we cautioned the hostess of our dilemma. She mentioned that the menu would be limited (no prime steak this trip) for such a brief meal, but assured us it could be done. Our waiter, Andrew, was aware of our time frame when he introduced himself, and reassured us we were in good shape. A strong list of wines by the glass included selections like Guigal Cotes du Rhone and Acacia Pinot Noir. The Spicy Steak Chili was exactly that, with chopped chunks of beef bringing serious heat. Andrew presented the check immediately after our meal. We were in, out, and fully satisfied in twenty-five minutes!
Completely different experiences in scope, with identical happiness. Elway's has a high-five recommendation for wine, food, and service.
Elway's Downtown - Ritz-Carlton 1881 Curtis St. Denver, CO 80202
Elway's at DIA - Denver International Airport, B Concourse
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting
I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular.
The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.
I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.
Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table.
Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98101
Wine Talk With Rajat Parr
Rajat Parr has invested two decades in restaurant and wine service and oversight, wine education, and now wine making, to become one of the world's most influential Sommeliers. While juggling all these responsibilities and collecting the industry's highest honors, he remains abundantly outgoing and gracious. Clearly, he lives the quote of Mahatma Gandhi that adorns his email signature: "The best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others." Here are highlights from conversation he shared with me surrounding his passion for wine.
On how he got started with wine...
I was born and grew up in India, and went to hotel school. I always loved cooking, but there was not a cooking school in India at the time. So I went to hotel school, and then I was accepted and moved to New York to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I was there I joined the wine club, and I fell in love with wine. So my focus shifted to wine, and I started working, and moved to San Francisco and worked with Larry Stone at a restaurant called Rubicon. I started as a busboy and moved up to Sommelier with Larry as his assistant. Then I was Sommelier at Fifth Floor, and then Michael Mina, and opened around twenty restaurants. I was already making wine, so I did both from ’04 to 2012, and then I finally moved full-time to Santa Barbara.
So you have four different wine projects. I can see why you had get out of restaurant business. How do you manage all of them?
Ha ha! I don’t know. Yes, two estate projects and two negociant or purchased grape projects. There is Domaine de la Cote in Santa Rita Hills, and Seven Springs Vineyards in Oregon that are estate. Then we have Sandhi, and Maison L'Oree in Burgundy, small negociants. All of these things just happened very naturally and nothing was forced. We have great partners, and we work it out. We have fun doing it. We have a great time working with Seven Springs, an old vineyard, planted in the mid-eighties. It’s pretty great to work with an almost thirty-year old vineyard. Then Domain de la Cote is a new vineyard, planted in ’06. Pretty great to see the potential of the young vineyard. Hopefully it will be great in twenty or thirty years.
On Santa Barbara and the new California wine scene...
I always loved Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and I think you can grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pretty well in Santa Barbara. You can make wines which have good levels of high-acidity, very vibrant wines. Sonoma was another option, and Santa Cruz. They all are different. I just felt Santa Barbara was more my style. When Domaine de la Cote was planted, early on, I was quite astounded by the results from the vineyard, so I decided to go all in.
In Pursuit of Balance was supposed to be just a small gathering or tasting. Me and my friend Jasmine Hirsch, when she was just starting to work with her family vineyard, and I had just started Sandhi. And we said let’s do a tasting, get some like-minded people together. So we did a small tasting of twenty people in 2011. It was a big success. There were a lot of people interested in listening to what’s happening in California, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot, and that small tasting now has a pretty big following. There was a great article, one of the best articles written, by Anne Crable. Are you on Twitter? I put it on Twitter. One of the most informative articles I’ve seen.
What advice would you give to the wine drinking community, with so much good wine and new trends?
I think that the most important thing is to have an open mind, and to try different things. Sometimes people just always drink the same wines they drink, and stay in their comfort zone. I think it’s important to open your mind, try different things. Different wines with different foods, and see. The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing. That way you can really explore new things, try some fun wines, and learn more. The younger generation (is like this) for sure. The Millennials are very curious. Quite different than the Baby Boomers. They like the classics. Which, there is nothing wrong. But if you want to learn more, you must have an open mind.
Rajat was honored with the 2011 James Beard Award for Beverage for his book, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World's Top Wine Professionals. I asked how things have changed since it was published:
I think when we wrote the book, we didn’t really account for so many young sommeliers now. The core of the book is still really relevant. There are a lot of regions that have really developed in the past five years. Things are changing rapidly in the wine world. I think we will have to do a new edition to update all the new wines. Australia for example. California was really small at the time, and now there is so much more. I think the core story and core content are still really relevant. Definitely that. And I am working on a new book as well.
When he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional, I asked for his comments on a second Award:
The James Beard Award means a lot to me. It's a huge honor and an endorsement by the food and wine community. I feel humbled!
See notes from my tasting of Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi here.
Six Months Of Van The Wine Man
It has been a busy six months since I started Van The Wine Man, with wine and restaurant service experiences from coast to coast. Thank you for reading and connecting with me along the way, whether online or in-person. If this is the first time you have visited my blog, or if you want to look back with me, here are my most-popular posts to date:
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel Of DB Brasserie
Craig Collins, MS On Austin And Professional Service
I met up with Master Sommelier Craig Collins as he took a breath from a schedule that appears overwhelming to a mere mortal. In the process of juggling regular duties as Beverage Director for ELM Restaurant Group's three existing restaurants, he came from staff training for Italic, the new Italian concept whose opening was only two weeks away. These alongside his two-week-old activities as a new father, and all taking place during the excessive busyness of SXSW. Without his head spinning, he took time to drink a beer and share some of his experiences and philosophies on Easy Tiger's hopping deck.
from italy to austin
Craig shared how he fell in love with wine while studying abroad during college in Tuscany, where he became enamored especially with Italian wines. It was also where he solidified his friendship with Chef Andrew Curren, now owner of ELM. Italy's food and wine culture made a deep impression on him. "Family and food are the most important things there, and family is not just family, but also friends, with closeness and togetherness. I think that's great." The roommates determined to follow their passions of wine and cooking, and often discussed opening a restaurant, with Craig front of house, and Andrew in the back. But soon finding himself working for an Italian-specialized wine importer in Austin, Collins thought he was set. "I had never worked in a restaurant. I thought I was an importer for life."
renowned for service
"Ten years ago, there were no Sommeliers in Austin, and now there are fifteen to twenty beverage-focused programs," he said. Austin is growing and changing, and part of this scenario is an acclaimed, chef-owner and beverage-driven restaurant service culture. Craig is one of a few original Austin Sommeliers that studied together and have remained instrumental in establishing the improvement and expansion. The results include a broader range of fine dining establishments, an emphasis on beverages, and attraction of national attention. Advancement and changes have also come for Collins. A year after he passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, the documentary SOMM contributed to Sommelier becoming a mainstream and highly-sought position, particularly in a growth market like Austin, further increasing the local talent pool. Along the way, Curren convinced his old friend to join ELM to open a French themed restaurant, ARRO.
Four restaurants later, with more in the works, ELM as well as Austin is booming. Collins and others have ensured that careful attention is directed toward developing the next generation to carry on highest levels of service. He is cautious, though, about the flavor of hype given his profession. "I don’t want to bring back the pretension to the position, or for it to sound like it is a rock star life. Everyone knows now the work it takes to become a Master, but the work after you pass? It’s more. Instead of focusing on a singular goal, you have many focuses, and it's harder. People have expectations." To be sure to keep up with expectations, he maintains an impressive standard for communication. "I try to respond in twelve hours, not twenty-four. That is the expectation I set for myself." I can attest. Unknowingly, I emailed Collins about meeting on the day his son was being born. Even then, he replied by the next morning.
As Craig described preparing meals and stocking his refrigerator for his wife while she gets used to life with their baby, (a menu of foods that she can eat one-handed) it was clear that delivering satisfying service is his way of life. Roles as family man, restaurant group manager, and industry leader do not prevent him from making even random strangers like me to feel well cared for. Summing up how he manages a stacked and constantly changing schedule so completely and pleasantly, he said. "That is professional service."
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
Master Sommelier. Vallin winemaker. SOMM Film Star. Les Marchands Wine Bar owner. Brian McClintic shared some of his experiences from all aspects of his busy schedule.
What was it like having a camera in your face while studying for the master sommelier exam?
I think it impacted me positively. The Master Sommelier test is very social. The tasting is with a panel. Service is obviously social. The theory test is oral. You’re walking around with so much information in your head, a lot of people become socially awkward. The film forced me to come out of my shell, to lighten up and stay loose, and be the best version of myself. I was able to stay outside myself, to not get lost in myself.
how do you drink your way through a calendar packed with wine projects?
I cry myself to sleep every night?! Really, they just flow into each other. We were already making wine, and it all happened at once after the movie in a whirlwind. It’s ironic, wine is to celebrate, it’s social. It’s not like coffee, not a shot of espresso and go about your day. With wine we take our time. My day is not like that. Imagine if your job was eating just your favorite food. Now imagine if I asked you to start eating it twice a day. And you love steak. You wouldn’t be able to do that very long, not without throwing a salad in. I’m tasting wines constantly. Your palate can only take so much. But I love what I do. I remind myself at the end of the day that it’s just wine.
What wines were difference-makers for you?
As for ah-ha wines, there was never one, but there were several stages along the way. I was working at a steakhouse, and it was all about Napa Cab. From five to five-hundred-dollars. That’s where I learned to taste the difference. But then a guest would ask about our tiny French section, and I would think, “Bordeaux, is that a grape or a section? How do you pronounce these things?” So one night I splurged. I bought an eighty-five Pomerol, and took it to a friend who would know, and it was like, “Oh!” The smells and tastes were like nothing I knew. That was my new to old world intro. At a certain point you experience Burgundy, and at first you think, “It’s thin and soft, it smells light. Why is everyone going crazy for this?” I was working at the Little Nell in Aspen, and had my first Grand Cru Burgundy. That was when I got Burgundy. After that, going back to Napa Cab...they seemed unctuous, over the top. If it were just me, ninety-percent of what I drink would be whites.
what do people need to know about santa barbara wine?
Oh, I could talk forever. So there’s the new world of wine, it’s still in it’s infancy. In the old world, monks have been making wine over the course of centuries. Santa Barbara was only planted in seventy-one, so it’s very young. All of California, really, are like infants playing in a sandbox. Just highly gifted, intelligent infants. It’s the old world we learn from and give credit to, and we’ve come far very quickly. But do we know what grows best where? No, not until we know what is best viticulturally. Santa Barbara is a geographic anomaly. San Francisco area is great, cellar temperature year-round. Santa Barbara has the coolest, longest growing season in the valley. It allows us to plant grapes that ripen, but grow over a longer period of time. But it’s branded for tourism. You say “Napa” or “Sonoma” you immediately think wine. You say “Paso Robles”, you think wine. You say “Santa Barbara”, you think palm trees, sun, beaches, and bikinis, not wine. Everyone asks, “How can we change it?” I say, “Don’t! Stay out of the spotlight while we figure it out.” Maybe Gruner Veltliner is perfect for growing, but Pinot Noir is the most marketable. Now there are progressive growers who choose to plant what’s best, not what is most marketable. There are makers who want to work with Gruner Veltliner and others like it. And there are drinkers who want to try Gruner Veltliner, that are more open than ever. I like to say Santa Barbara has unlimited potential.
On winemaking and service
Vallin was not started to be a money-maker. It was to keep four guys connected together. But once we started, we decided, “OK, we’re going to do some serious wine.” Lots of somms make wine, put juice in a bottle, put a label on it, we’re not doing that. We said, “So Syrah is not the most marketable wine. Syrah is a world-class grape, let’s get behind it.” Northern Rhone is the heart of Syrah, and we made it our focal point. We were in Burgundy, drinking Jamet Cote Rotie. Let that sink in. Vallin was on the label, we liked how it looked on the label. We researched and found it was a street name, then went further and found it was actually a surname. Vallin means valley dwellers, from people that originally settled the Rhone valley. We said, “That’s cool and simple, let’s go with it.” It’s exciting to see three years later, we sold out of the ‘twelve, and are just waiting for the ‘thirteen in the barrel to be ready to bottle.
Brian exams the well-stocked shelves at Les Marchands
Service for a sommelier is different than any other service. The court teaches specific standards of service, so that if the Queen of England asks you to do a wine service, you could deliver that. It’s very technically precise. With staff, it’s different. You take the clientele, the concept, into account. Les Marchands is not buttoned-up like formal fine dining. We’re very warm and approachable, and technically proficient. Usually it is one of these, but not both. This is without being stuffy or pretentious. We size up each guest. We tailor service to each guest, it’s all about how we meet them where they are. Michael Jordan, the sommelier not the basketball player, is a master sommelier and my mentor. He said, “It’s not how much you know, it’s how much you care.” That’s something that has stuck with me, so simple but so powerful. We guess where guests are at, and think how can we meet them there. Invariably every night there is one guest you could have done something better. And being attuned to the needs of others is something applicable to every area of life.
expect to experiment at Les Marchands wine bar & merchant, santa barbara
Most people look at our by the glass list and say, “What language is this?” But then we pour them a tasting and they’re in. We’ve found that “yeah, I’ll try it” makes up about ninety-percent of our clientele. When we originally told our investors we wanted mostly lesser-known European varietals on the list, they said, “Are you crazy?!” But these are balanced out by the local wines. There are tremendous values from strange places. Not just to be strange, but good, high-level wines. But they're not marketed, so they’re way underpriced.
What Brian described here played out in my experience at Les Marchands. Several staffers combined to accommodate my group's requests with recommendations that were right on target, and there were many unfamiliar wines available for tasting, along with attractive pricing. Wines by the glass change frequently, allowing for an ongoing educational process for those fortunate enough to be regular patrons.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchants
Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.
I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.
- Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
- Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
- Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
- Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
- Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
- Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46
I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome.
There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.
Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Best Of Los Angeles Wine, Service, And Dining
Impromptu tasting at Les Marchands
The standouts from my visit to Los Angeles and SoCal, from Laguna to Lompoc:
wine
- Sandhi Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - These first two are Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman's Santa Barbara projects. Full coverage here.
- Domaine De La Cote Sta Rita Hills 2012 - Pinot Noir...
- Terre Des Chardones "Marginal" 2012 - Found at Les Marchands. A funky, earthy Syrah-Grenache with a sweet hint to end.
- Calabretta Vino Rosso "Cala Cala" NV - Also from Les Marchands. "The magma in the body". Drink from Mount Etna.
- Marotti Campi Rubico Lacrima Di Morro D'Alba 2012 - Discovered at the Slow Wine event. The story here.
service
- Domaine De La Cote Tasting Room - Outstanding hospitality, throughout set up and a generous tasting. Lompoc
- Open Sesame - Friendly, thorough service and constant attention, from only one server. Long Beach
- Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant - Brian McClintic's thriving operation. Four staff members assisted with everything from setting up an impromptu tasting, to advising on a selection of Cote Rotie to take home. Santa Barbara
- Hotel Shangri-La Dining Room Bar - A right-proper mimosa, with just a splash of OJ, but they had me at Whistle Pig Rye. Santa Monica
- C'est La Vie Restaurant and Bakery - French foods and baked goods were good. The view of the ocean from the upstairs deck, along with entertaining service from "Gary Glitter" made the experience. Gary knows anything you need to know about the area. Laguna Beach
Kogi food truck delights
food
- Republique - I left wanting more. Read about it. 624 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles
- Open Sesame - Beef shawarma, lamb chops, hummus, garlic fried potatoes. Musar Jeune 2011. A great experience. Long Beach
- Kogi BBQ Truck - The sweet chili chicken quesadilla, Kogi dog, and various tacos on the hood of my rental. Various locations
- Tortilla Republic - Great sauces on both the duck enchiladas with a habanero cream sauce and mole chicken enchiladas. West Hollywood
- Ma 'n Pa Grocery - "World Famous Fried Chicken" every Wednesday...from a converted gas station. Long Beach
best cocktail
Patterson’s Nap at Melrose Umbrella Company - Cool drink in a cooler place. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Tangerine, Lemon, Campari. West Hollywood
best to be
Augustine Wine Bar - Now open! 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks
Wine Bars And Service In LA - Talking With Matthew Kaner
Matthew Kaner, co-owner of Bar Covell on Hollywood Boulevard, and the new Augustine Wine Bar in Sherman Oaks, spoke with high-speed enthusiasm on his background and philosophy of wine service, during the final "hell hole" days before the recent opening of Augustine.
wine fast tracking
I got drunk for the first time at seven years old. I stole a glass of champagne at a friend’s wedding, I’ll never forget it. That set the course for my life. I grew up in Santa Barbara County, a big producing area. Grapes were always something I saw, something I was familiar with. So I knew I had a closeness and affinity for it, even though I wasn’t old enough to drink it legally. So, fast-forward to my eighteen-year-old years, I’m managing a restaurant, I went to college in Santa Barbara, and I lived in a house that was known as the Cock House. Eleven guys, it is what you think with the name. One of my roommates had this well-to-do, tax attorney dad, and he decided I was worth investing time and money and effort into. I don’t know why, I don’t question it, but he showed me what Grand Cru Burgundy meant, and what grower Champagne meant, what Madiera from the 1800s meant, and what aged Armagnac meant, and all these things I didn’t know about prior to that. Fast-forward a little more to being a twenty-one-year-old, feeling taken advantage of being a restaurant manager at that age, and I was also trying to do music, something that was really important to me. I made a lot of music for many years, and toured as long as I could. So, one of the things that my whole life goal was, was being able to afford a nice bottle of wine. So I decided to fake it until I made it. I used the knowledge that I was imparted by my friend’s dad, and I quit my restaurant job. I got a job in Santa Barbara at a place called the Wine Cask, and that was where I started, coming up on ten years ago. And that changed my life. I learned about any and every important wine you can imagine. I moved to Los Angeles in 2006, and I got a job at a place called Silver Lake Wine. That’s where I learned about showing up every day and being a part of a community. That’s where I learned, it’s not how much I know, it’s how much I help people. That’s where I made my decision consciously that I was going to focus on wine as a job. So when I had that mindset, that’s when things really started to happen, the wheels were in motion. I felt like the momentum was undeniable. And I was very lucky. I was approached by a friend who was going to open a wine bar. He asked me about it in 2009, and we took the plunge in 2010. We opened Covell July 2nd, 2010, and life has not been the same since. I feel blessed every day.
Matthew and Dave in the latter stages of Augustine construction
do you have your wine decoder ring? - Bar Covell
The no wine list thing was a synthesis of all my big pet peeves. So, you go to a place, you’ve heard about it. They hand you a wine list, you think, “Oh, I can’t wait to see what they have to offer.” You find a couple of things you’re excited about, you make that decision about what you want to buy, and they’re f*/%g out of it! All that time and effort, all that communication, all the recommendations, all of the sudden, the first thing you try to order, they’re out of it. You can never be out of a wine if you don’t have a wine list. Number one. Number two, at Covell, nothing stayed the same. Our wine program of, let’s say one-hundred-fifty wines by the glass, was almost never the same. It would change over weekly, we would sell out of a wine, and it would never come back. It would have been such an intense amount of work to keep up with that, keep it printed, it would have been a waste of my time, a waste of resources, a waste of ink, a waste of paper, just not a smart way to do it. Number three is, most people don’t speak nine languages, most people don’t have a wine decoder ring on, so basically you’re saying, “This primary source document in nine languages, each time I hand it to you, I assume you know what it means, that you know how to read it.” And that’s not the case. So what it comes down to is that it’s not the best way for people to make an informed decision. Having a conversation, though, with someone who knows what they’re talking about, tends to be a better way of making decisions. Other than reading from right to left, “How much does this cost, what is it, oh, OK, I’ll buy that.” So, the encouragement there is, start a conversation, with a little bit of knowledge, we can get a long way together. And just because someone’s never heard of wines from Cornalin, or they’ve never had Tasmanian Riesling, that doesn’t mean they won’t like it. One of the things at Covell that we’re really good at doing, is separating what you know and what you’ve had, and giving context. If you want something light and mineral, it doesn’t matter what it’s called, it matters that it’s light and mineral! And that’s what we deliver. At the end of the day, does it pleasure me, or does it not pleasure me. That’s the end goal, finding that out. So the no wine list, the idea behind the program, other than I’ve never seen it done before, and it’s the most insane undertaking we’ve ever done, it’s a synthesis of things that really piss me off in the industry, that I’m trying to solve.
THE BEST (NON) SOMM
Here’s the deal. With the term Sommelier, there’s such an expectation. I personally quit college, and that’s the last test I took in my life. I don’t take exams, I don’t feel the need to do it, I don’t need to prove myself. But, I have a lot of friends that have gone through the Court of Master Sommeliers, that have gone through the other accreditations. There’s such an incredible time, monetary effort behind that. I have so much respect for people that need to learn, that are constantly on the higher path to know everything about a field. For me personally, I’ve learned through tasting, I’ve learned through traveling, through talking about it, through soaking it up, being a sponge. I’ve never gone through any accreditation myself. So, I’ve been called a Sommelier, I’ve been called one of the best Sommeliers in the country in certain years which is very flattering, and I’m so thankful. But I’m technically not one, because I don’t have accreditation. My argument, for what it’s worth, is that it doesn’t help me help my customers better, so it’s not something that I feel the need to do. But again, some of my friends, that’s their life work, that’s their passion, it’s their calling. And I have the utmost respect for it, because it makes sense in their life. So, am I a Sommelier? Yeah, I do what a Sommelier does, and make people happy with wine. I can pair wine very well with food. I can get you wine for without food. I can do whatever is necessary. But, am I one? I guess. Do I have paper to back it up? No, but does that matter? I argue not. Some of my most-respected colleagues do not have accreditation. It doesn’t mean that you’re better. It doesn’t mean that you get a fancy job. It doesn’t make you someone that can communicate to human beings. It just means that you passed an exam. It means that you paid the fees. It means that you tasted a lot of stuff. It means that you have an i-brain, instead of an iPhone. It’s a synthesis of memorization, repetition. That’s an unbelievable thing to do. There’s another reason why there’s only two-hundred-fifty human beings that have done it. It’s not easy to accomplish.
augustine wine bar, sherman oaks - a rare vintage
Augustine vintage bottles and wines by the glass
Augustine will be fifty to seventy-five wines by the glass. The best thing, Dave, our partner, has this collection of wines he’s been amassing for twenty years. Vintage wines back to the nineteenth century. Lot’s of old things. Lot’s of beautiful things. Incredible places. We’ll do nightly featured wines by the glass from his collection, as well as nightly featured wines by the bottle from the vintage collection. Things like, ’59 Mouton Rothschild. Things like, multiple vintages from the fifties and sixties from all the DRC holdings. The wine bar concept of Covell will be replicated. Wine is the focus. All the service at Covell, as well as all the service at Augustine, is done at the bar. We’re a little different, we’re a hybrid. We’re like when you to to Catalonia, to different regions in Germany, when you’re in Lirac, places in the south of France, this is the concept you tend to see. Owner-operator, behind the bar. It’s their wine program, it’s their friends they’re selling the wine from, and they tend to have some food, because you need food when you’re drinking. It’s conscious. We’re all about the education behind the wine, having some of the best beer you’ve ever had, and being able also to have world-class food with it. It’s more of a wine bar, in its’ actual bones. (Sherman Oaks) is a neighborhood I never thought I would have a foray into. What I realized is, it’s under-served, there’s a lot of sophistication. These people, this is their community, this is their neighborhood. They’ve never had a place that’s cared so much about wine come into their neighborhood. So it’s going to be interesting to see how they interpret it. I’m excited about that.
Partner Dave interjected, "I wish we were open, then I could pour you a nice glass that I had last night. I drank a sixty-six Romanee Saint Vivant. It was great, but it was a bummer, I drank it by myself."
"That’s not a bummer!" exclaimed Matthew.
Dave continued, "I like to share. And I’m not going to drink more than half a bottle by myself, ever. And I know that tonight, it’s not going to be as good. You know, it had its’ magic moment last night. The good thing is, we probably have about ten bottles of that left!"
Your Los Angeles wine experiences await:
Augustine Wine Bar - Now Open - 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
Bar Covell - 4628 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027
Randa Warren - Conversation With A Master Sommelier
I recently caught up with Master Sommelier Randa Warren of Tulsa, Oklahoma, one of the still few female Masters in the world. We discussed her journey to arrive at this highest level, and her advice on experiencing wine that everyone can apply.
Getting started
I was just really frustrated not really knowing very much about wine and being in a situation where I was starting to dine out more frequently, with people with some financial ability. Some of the people I was with thought by having good wine that meant ordering expensive wines, and that was usually a Cabernet. I just really wanted to learn a little more about wine. I knew there must be more, and I was interested in it. I would pursue it by taking some low-level wine courses in a home study program in New York. That led to the upper levels in that program to the point where it got difficult. So I got a tutor to help me with one of the more advanced programs, some of the viticulture, on diseases and pruning. Then I met a core group, and began studying with them via fax, because we didn’t have email at the time. I took the introductory Sommelier program, and I just loved it! I passed the Advanced Sommelier exam in 2000, on my first attempt.
master struggles
When I got to Master level, they just cut me off at the knees. My service was very weak, because I didn’t work in a restaurant. Being a woman and being from Oklahoma, and being blonde, if you want to go down that road, but just not working in the restaurant industry really hurt me. People would be like, “Why are you even doing this?” I knew I had to work regularly in restaurants. So I began working in restaurants for free, then I began traveling around the country working with Master Sommeliers, tasting with them. One of my idols is Madeline Triffon, who is the first female Master Sommelier in the world. She was gracious enough to let me work under her in some of her restaurants. There were so many things I picked up from so many different Masters that took the time to help me. I was very blessed in that situation.
I loved (the SOMM documentary film), because I thought it was an excellent portrayal of what it was. I was a big advocate of note cards. I had note cards for everything. I always had note cards in my purse. And people in my neighborhood, if I didn’t have my note cards, they would say, “Where are your note cards?” So, that movie, you notice they all had note cards, they all had quiz cards. They were totally consumed with wine and the theory of wine, and that’s what it took. I thought it was an excellent portrait.
You really have to put a lot of things on hold. But at the same time you are advancing yourself, feeding your passion for knowledge, advancement in wine. Everyone in this program, give or take the very gifted ones, has had something that dogs them. I have a friend who is a great wine taster, but didn’t conform to the system, the tasting grid, getting your points. He would just sail through it, and they would say, “Well, yeah, you got the wine, but you didn’t get any points.” It has to be to be a fair program, to test people equally. I had a lot of setbacks, failures, at the Master level, but every year I came back, and I was ten to twenty times better than the year before. A lot of challenges, but all of them were overcome. I think anybody can overcome challenges that are thrown your way. I passed the master in 2007.
would you like to try...
When I come back from South Africa I’ll be all hot on the South Africans, and bring in six or eight new wines, and they’ll be slow movers, and I’ll be saying, “Why did I bring these in?” But I can get people to try things, they usually trust me, and my palate. I wish I could have that store full of unique, and not so much expensive, but high quality wines, but they just don’t move. I tell people all the time, "If you like Sauvignon Blanc, that’s great. But just don’t be stuck drinking California Sauvignon Blanc the rest of your life." You’re missing out if you don’t try some from New Zealand and you’re certainly missing out on the Loire Valley. At some point you’re going to tire of that simplistic taste, or someone is going to expose you to something with a little more complexity and the lightbulb will go off, and you say, “OK, I’m willing to spend more money to enhance this experience.” Life is too short to be locked into only three different grape varietals. I do see people wanting to try new indigenous varietals, so people do want new things, and they’re willing to spend money for it. I think that’s great, and a lot of people are just like I was seventeen years ago, wanting to learn more about wine, and to start moving up the scale a little bit.
A friend of mine came in, budget conscious, having a dinner party, and I sold her a bottle of Sauternes. It was kind of a big deal, because I sold her a thirty-five dollar bottle of dessert wine, and she wanted all the others to be under twenty dollars. I said, “if you ever want to call me and have me put together something...” and she said, “No, I really like to come out and talk to you and get the reasoning behind the madness of why you ordered this and why you pair this with this food verses that one.” I saw it as a real achievement, and told her on the way out to pick up a piece of baklava, and save some of the Sauterne and drink it with the baklava. It’s the most incredible dessert wine pairings I’ve ever come across. She said she would, so we’ll see what she thinks. To me, that’s what’s rewarding, to get somebody into something they would never have done on their own.
future challenge
Programs (Court of Master Sommeliers) are going to get more rigorous, more strict. I think they’re trying to get people to think more at every level, not just blindly studying, blindly tasting, without any focus. I think it’s really going to become a lot more focused, much more rigid, and produce some excellent Sommeliers. The Court is also focusing a lot more on, "How can we make this program better for the students, and not waste their time and their money?" I think everybody is thinking more smartly. I’m very excited about where the court is headed.
I would just encourage the readers to challenge themselves, to push themselves a little more. Look where you are right now, look where you could be with a little bit of study, look where you could be with a lot of study, look where you could be if you pushed yourself through four levels of the Master Sommelier program. The question is do you want to do that? Where do you see yourself in ten years? If you put yourself on a pinnacle you never thought you could reach, just by doing a little study each day, a little tasting each day, having more wine tasting parties, finding a core group of people to study with and taste with. The bottom line is to enjoy it. To enjoy what you drink. But to get out and discover new treasures every day. That’s what makes life exciting, and worth drinking!
Republique LA - Just A Taste
Republique French bistro in Los Angeles is highly-acclaimed, and with "best of" awards in multiple categories after only a year, I was excited to visit. A late lunch on a Monday provided an uncrowded scene inside what appears to be a French market. The open, two-story atrium offers views into several kitchen and prep areas full of constant activity. Be sure to check out their special event spaces, particularly the Left Bank Wine Room.
The walk-up counter to order lunch runs alongside the bakery, which displayed dozens of beautifully arranged goods. I later enjoyed a selection of desserts, including Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake and Matcha Green Tea Bundt Cake with Yuzu Glaze, which delivered the strong flavors of their descriptive names. My favorite item from Republique, though, was the Hazelnut Paris Brest, a sliced pastry with creamy hazelnut frosting filling, and fresh chopped hazelnuts resting on the chocolate-iced top. It was stunningly delicious.
The menus change daily, with specials in most categories. The iced beverage offered that day was Blood Orange Lemonade, which had nicely balanced flavors and milder sweetness. For lunch, I had the so-called Regular Breakfast, complete with bacon steak, a slightly sweet, pleasantly tender, quarter-inch thick cut of...bacon!
I had only a glass of the featured French white wine, served in a Schott Zwiesel glass. That I was so impressed by Republique, from a lightly-serviced lunch, and without experiencing the wine program of sommelier Taylor Parsons, is saying something. I am eager to return for the full meal deal.
Before You Travel, Plan To Connect
If you have made efforts to seek out wine and dining experiences for an upcoming trip, you may also have made observations about events and people that interest you. Wine tasting events are on the rise, and the makers and purveyors of the wines are more active socially. Why not find if there is an extraordinary opportunity available during your travel?
find the wine calendar
Events are easy. Simply executing a search for "wine events (city of travel)" will return pages of links to sort through, but many will be in the past or repeated. A better tactic is to search local media, wine, and restaurant sites, some of which will have event calendars or additional resources. Some examples:
the wine celebrity challenge
A flexible schedule and patience are required, but reaching out to sommeliers, winemakers, and other wine celebrities may yield thrilling results. If you are really excited to visit a particular winery or restaurant, you really cannot go wrong by expressing your anticipation, and asking politely for an audience with the proprietor, chef, or somm. Most sites have contact information for influential members of the team. Even if there is only an email address to "info@...", give it a try. The worst that will happen is that your request will be declined by a staff member, but they should make note of your request and take good care of you when you visit. It is more likely you will receive your response directly from the source. Even if the person is not available for a lengthy conversation, he or she may stop by to say hello, and make sure that the staff knows to give you attention. Maybe you will receive a special treat from the kitchen, a personal tour of the winery, or an opportunity to taste reserve wines. And the person may available for more.
Of course, you can succeed without going all-in in this manner. Narrow to just a few desired wine and restaurant targets, and make your moves. One caution: Make it clear you are paying your own way, and not seeking a freebie. You will probably be surprised, and sure to be pleased, by the responses. Ask, and you may receive, but you will surely enjoy a better experience.
What has been your experience with wine and dining celebrities?
Champagne Dreams Are Not Restricted To December
If you're going to drink Champagne, December is the time you're most likely to do it. Three times more bubbly is sold this month than any other throughout the year. While we cannot all be like Winston Churchill, I for one, enjoy Champagne year-round. However, I have regular conversations with those who do not care for the wine, or who have the impression that finer Champagne is only for an elite class.
I often attempt to persuade someone that expresses dislike for Champagne that they have not experienced good Champagne. Take time to learn the basics to help you choose the right bubbles for you, like the different styles of Champagne. I enjoyed the advice in this interview with famed Sommelier Aldo Sohm. There is great diversity in sparkling flavor and feel.
Regarding the air of upper class, it's just another wine, people. Like any, there are numerous big names and three-figure price tags, and better bottles will cost fifty-dollars-plus. If you can afford the Doms and Cristals, they're an elevated experience. But the volume of choices in wine, including cost, is not to the exclusion of bubbles. There is a generous supply of sparking wine in all styles for under twenty dollars, and excellent non vintage Champagnes can be found in the thirty-dollar price range.
With the selection of good wine available today, there should be a Champagne or sparking wine for you, maybe even one you will enjoy on a regular basis. You just might have to try several different styles and labels before you find it. Wait, is that a problem?
Here are some personal picks:
- Pol Roger Brut Reserve - $65
- Gosset Grande Reserve Brut - $50
- Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs - $29
- Toad Hollow Amplexus Cremant Brut - $18
- Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10
Do you drink Champagne outside of events and special occasions?
Before You Travel, Where's The Wine?
As a systematic consumer, I do excessive amounts of research to ensure that my experiences are satisfying. This is especially the case before traveling, and is work I consider critical to happiness and well worth the effort. Here are my best practices for uncovering the outstanding before you hit the road.
Search best of...
Most cities have a dominant magazine and entertainment newspaper, both of which publish annual Best Of lists, with fairly thorough and specific dining and drinking reviews. Also scan newspaper food and wine sections and national publications like Food and Wine or Travel and Leisure that focus on outstanding experiences. Examine these, giving considerable attention to the publications' choices, and less to the readers' votes. Look for your personal keywords. (Mine are Fine Dining, Sommeliers, Wine, Service, and Servers) When you find an interesting target, go to the web site, give it a once over, and save it in a list of destinations for that city if it passes the eye test.
The next search is for local, high-traffic blogs about food and wine in the city. On blogs by respectable writers, you are likely to find more choices, but this is primarily for in-depth information, and confirmation of your interest in your initial list of options. You will also learn of news and events that you may want to take into consideration for your travel itinerary.
Social-driven sites like Urban Spoon, Eater, Yelp, and Trip Advisor can deliver additional layers of confirmation. This is chiefly visual, through the volumes of non-staged photographs posted by diners. Low ratings on these sites are a red flag for me, leading to further scrutiny of a potential choice, while high ratings and extreme comments are taken with a grain of salt.
Narrow the field
Once you compile a satisfactory list of alternatives, make closer inspections of the chosen few. Which ones have a version of your favorite dish, an acclaimed wine list, or an intriguing new adventure? Does the wine list have a good selection with descriptions and years, not to mention reasonable prices? View the "about" and staff pages, looking for indications that the restaurant caters to your style and preferences. Contemplate the area surrounding the establishment, it's convenience to your location, dress, (yes, still) and hours of operation.
If you're involving others in the dining decisions, now is the time to share the short list with your traveling companions. I provide a list of links with brief notes about my findings when asking for opinions.
Even if you have made your decisions by now, go ahead and look at social media. Many restaurants, chefs, and sommeliers are active socially, and eager to connect and share. There are often valuable pieces of information, such as limited offers or special events, that are delivered exclusively via social.
take note
So you have started early, made reservations for potentially great dining, and built up your anticipation. Always do a last-minute review for breaking news or changes at the restaurants. It is disappointing to realize too late that the entree you were excited to try went out with last season's menu, that the restaurant is closed for vacation, or closed. While traveling, make notes about your meals, beverages, and service, however brief. You will begin to notice your own trends, your personal Big Wine and Food Data, and also the correlation between good wine and excellent service.
Pre-travel research takes time, but pays off with fulfilling wining and dining. Wherever your destination, delve into the wealth of information that is readily available, and make every meal an enjoyable experience.
The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel of DB Brasserie
Devin Zendel is an Advanced Sommelier and Head Sommelier at db Brasserie in Las Vegas. For the past fifteen years, he has served at acclaimed Vegas restaurants including Wolfgang Puck, Carnevino, and Eiffel Tower Restaurant. Before a recent dinner, he shared some of his experiences with wine, and insightful comments about the demanding lifestyle required to succeed as a top wine professional in an extremely competitive city.
Devin Zendel pours "Daniel" Brut at db Brasserie
What drew you to wine and led to wine as a career?
"My mother and aunt drank wine daily while I was growing up. I was young, drinking terrible beer, then I had a Napa Sauv Blanc that was an eye-opening experience for me. I was working at Puck as a server, and became fascinated with the world of wine. You learn how big wine is, and that it is never ending."
"I get to drink wine all the time, and business travel became a pleasure. I can design a floor plan, or I can taste five Burgundies."
What is it like working for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas?
"Previously I had been a floor Somm. db Brasserie is a chance for the total package. There is an old school mentality here. The most important thing is still food service and the total guest experience. The staff is inspired, impassioned. It stands out among the mostly union restaurants on the Strip."
"Coaching the staff on by the glass knowledge is critical. We make sure they taste any new wines, give them technical sheets so that they know all the wines, and role play with wine presentation. Food as well. We are big on their continuing education, and I plan for full, around the world training as the restaurant and staff grow."
"Vegas is very competitive, with lots of movement among somms. A friend of mine said one year in Vegas is like three years in (another large city). But it's nice, too. There are lots of events and people to meet. You don't want to leave the events, even though it's late and you're going to pay for it early in the morning, because there are so many more people to meet."
"It's a tough profession to get started in. You kind of have to be the guy in the corner with the "Will Work for Wine" sign. It's different now. The day of the old stuffy sommelier in a tuxedo, with only a couple of guys doing it, is over. Even before the documentary, it was changing, with the somms being the coolest people in the restaurant. Since the documentary, the Court says applications are up forty-percent in the last two years. Now, if you're not established, you have even more competition. No one will pay you at the start, and it's hard to break into. Without Certified or Advanced credentials, some jobs won't even interview you. It's a necessity."
How is the quest for Master Sommelier going?
"I've passed theory, which is good, because that is all textbooks and studying, and no life. They said I was close on service last time. Service isn't really about service. It's about thoughtlessly, flawlessly, executing perfect service. There's cutting the foil perfectly, pouring the wine perfectly, but it's not about that. All of that just happens. In my last service exam, they asked me about (a particular) Barbaresco. But it's not a Barbaresco, it's a Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba. Then they asked if (winery) makes any other wines. All of this conversation was going on while I was doing the other things. And I was on the clock. It's about theory. MS is a way of life, and you don't pass unless you live it. We're the weirdoes sneaking champagne in a plastic bottle into a movie. It's always about the wine you're drinking."
"It's taxing. You are always on when you're on the floor. I love working in the restaurant, interacting with tables, but I can see as you get older wanting to get off the floor. It's hard labor. I've had to ice my back, or wonder why my elbow is sore. There are financial considerations, perks and other opportunities once you become a Master. You can be an author, a speaker, a teacher. I think about when I was just getting started, in a big room full of people working on Certified. Once you're a Master you still have to earn teaching privileges in the Court. But to be the one teaching the room full of candidates, that sounds pretty amazing."
Read about my excellent wine and service experience with Devin and db Brasserie here.