Wine Stories - Paydirt, Paso Robles
Going For Broke label
Patrick McNeil always brings non-traditional artistic expression to the wines he works with. An entrepreneur on the business side of wine, he was previously behind the design and marketing of The Prisoner, among others. Now with winemaker McPrice Myers, he has his own memorable brand on the market, Paydirt. The label on the current Going For Broke blend is part of a larger work of art, with another piece of the puzzle appearing on a different bottling, Reckless Abandon. Perhaps there will be additional wild-eyed labels in the series, and exciting red blends to match!
Paydirt Going For Broke 2013 - A mouthful of a red blend, with Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. A juicy balance of dark berries, medium tannins, some peppery spice, a taste of The Dirt of Paydirt, and a pleasantly lingering finish. $30
Art on the wall of Paydirt
Chance Meetings With Winemakers
I met Jeff and Stephanie Lippencott by chance at lunch in a hotel where we were staying. Jeff is a composer, responsible for music accompaniment to numerous top-rated television programs. Later, as I sat at the bar reading Rajat Parr's Secrets Of The Sommeliers, Jeff sat next to me, and asked what had me reading the book. I explained my passion for wine, my blog, and working to share the love. "I make wine!" he exclaimed.
Jeff enthusiastically described cultivating a small vineyard over the past decade in Southern California, from which he now produces Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a red blend under the One Vine Four Branches label. Stephanie recounted the depth of resources and research that have been invested in learning about winemaking. They once hired a Master Sommelier to gain entrance to and escort them through barrel rooms of the first growth chateaux of Bordeaux. Jeff is hands-on throughout the entire winemaking process of growing, harvesting, barreling, and bottling his wines, which contain only juice from his grapes. Annual yield determines whether the wines will be single varietal or blends. An early effort, the 2010 Syrah, won a gold medal in the Los Angeles Cellarmasters home winemaking competition, and a silver medal in Wine Maker Magazine's home winemakers competition. He expressed his excitement over recently receiving a shipment of new, custom-made, French Oak barrels for use with his 2015 vintage, which will be a blend appropriately entitled Maestro. While still very limited in volume, Jeff's "hobby" has grown from sharing a few bottles with friends and clients, to making sizable philanthropic gifts.
I love to meet winemakers and hear their inspiring stories, and the surprise aspect of this encounter provided an additional thrill. It was an exhilarating conversation that came about entirely by chance, even after our initial introduction. More wines available logically means there are more people making it, so remain alert to wine-minded people you run into. You never know when that person sitting nearby is a winemaker!
Quenching Your Wine Thirst - 2015
Standouts from a tasting of the current portfolio of Thirst Wine Merchants.
White Wines
- Blackbird Vineyards Arriviste Rose 2014 - A delightful dry Rose from French varietals. $16
- Sandhi Chardonnay Santa Rita Hills 2013 - Becoming a regular favorite from Rajat Parr. $34
- SCRIBE Estate Chardonnay 2013 - Grapes from the corner of Carneros, Sonoma, and Napa, with a hint of pepper. $25
- SCRIBE Chardonnay Skin-Fermented 2014 - From a different clone in the same vineyards as #3, delivering a very unexpected punch. $34
- Gramercy Cellars Viognier 2014 - A field of daisies and baby powder. $22
Red Wines
- Leonetti Cellar Merlot 2013 - A Merlot leading the way?! Very dark, thick, and smooth. $84
- Figgins Family Estate Red 2012 - Herbaceous, then very dry and balanced. $87
- Chateau Angludet Margaux 2011 - The winemaker loves Petit Verdot, and this has 12%. Dark and earthy, with a hint of sweetness to finish. $45
- Blackbird Vineyards Arise 2012 - Dirty and chewy with strong spice. $52
- Owen Roe Syrah Ex Umbris 2012 - From hot and cool climate vineyards offering balance. Smooth with some spice. $19
- Sean Minor Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 - $18
- Boroli Barolo 2010 - $45
- Shaefer Vineyards Merlot 2013 - $53
- Casa Silva Carmenere 2013 - $15
- Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Vigneto Enrico Cialdini 2013 - Yes, Lambrusco. $18
Extreme Accommodation - Raya At Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel
Solid restaurant service is often accomplished by simply accommodating a diner's request, and the best in the business know how to over-deliver on all expectations. But few achieve stunning service, which my wife and I experienced at Raya inside the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel.
Ready And Willing Service
Stunning views of the ocean 150 feet below
We were not guests of the hotel, nor were they expecting us. It was a spontaneous visit while on a coastal drive, with expectations only of "something good at a Ritz." But it was three in the afternoon, the restaurants were closed, and it would be almost two hours before one of the bars opened. We saw a busy server inside Raya, and asked if there were anywhere on the property we could get wine and a snack. He was easy-going and engaging, appearing to empathize with our plight. He invited us into the empty restaurant, where he showed us the fantastic views of the beach and ocean below, before asking us to take a seat at a table. He said he would see what he could arrange for us.
Above And Beyond Service
When he returned with waters, he asked if we had any specific wines or snacks in mind. We were open to anything considering the circumstances, but he pressed us on wine. I mentioned that I had been on a French Syrah trend. He departed again, returning shortly with a platter of cheeses, nuts, and olives, simple and satisfying. He explained that Raya did not have any French wines by the glass, but that he had something in the works. Soon, he was back again, this time with three glasses of French reds, including a Syrah, from the neighboring wine bar.
We were shocked at the lengths to which this lone waiter went to give us an unforgettable experience. He looked after us for over an hour, while tending to his planned duties. If this is how the Raya staff treats drop-ins, the treatment when they are actually open for business must be special indeed!
Raya, Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel - One Ritz-Carlton Dr., Dana Point, CA 92629
A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin
I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.
Intriguing Diddle-Speak
My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.
But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk.
Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price.
This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.
Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
Master Sommelier. Vallin winemaker. SOMM Film Star. Les Marchands Wine Bar owner. Brian McClintic shared some of his experiences from all aspects of his busy schedule.
What was it like having a camera in your face while studying for the master sommelier exam?
I think it impacted me positively. The Master Sommelier test is very social. The tasting is with a panel. Service is obviously social. The theory test is oral. You’re walking around with so much information in your head, a lot of people become socially awkward. The film forced me to come out of my shell, to lighten up and stay loose, and be the best version of myself. I was able to stay outside myself, to not get lost in myself.
how do you drink your way through a calendar packed with wine projects?
I cry myself to sleep every night?! Really, they just flow into each other. We were already making wine, and it all happened at once after the movie in a whirlwind. It’s ironic, wine is to celebrate, it’s social. It’s not like coffee, not a shot of espresso and go about your day. With wine we take our time. My day is not like that. Imagine if your job was eating just your favorite food. Now imagine if I asked you to start eating it twice a day. And you love steak. You wouldn’t be able to do that very long, not without throwing a salad in. I’m tasting wines constantly. Your palate can only take so much. But I love what I do. I remind myself at the end of the day that it’s just wine.
What wines were difference-makers for you?
As for ah-ha wines, there was never one, but there were several stages along the way. I was working at a steakhouse, and it was all about Napa Cab. From five to five-hundred-dollars. That’s where I learned to taste the difference. But then a guest would ask about our tiny French section, and I would think, “Bordeaux, is that a grape or a section? How do you pronounce these things?” So one night I splurged. I bought an eighty-five Pomerol, and took it to a friend who would know, and it was like, “Oh!” The smells and tastes were like nothing I knew. That was my new to old world intro. At a certain point you experience Burgundy, and at first you think, “It’s thin and soft, it smells light. Why is everyone going crazy for this?” I was working at the Little Nell in Aspen, and had my first Grand Cru Burgundy. That was when I got Burgundy. After that, going back to Napa Cab...they seemed unctuous, over the top. If it were just me, ninety-percent of what I drink would be whites.
what do people need to know about santa barbara wine?
Oh, I could talk forever. So there’s the new world of wine, it’s still in it’s infancy. In the old world, monks have been making wine over the course of centuries. Santa Barbara was only planted in seventy-one, so it’s very young. All of California, really, are like infants playing in a sandbox. Just highly gifted, intelligent infants. It’s the old world we learn from and give credit to, and we’ve come far very quickly. But do we know what grows best where? No, not until we know what is best viticulturally. Santa Barbara is a geographic anomaly. San Francisco area is great, cellar temperature year-round. Santa Barbara has the coolest, longest growing season in the valley. It allows us to plant grapes that ripen, but grow over a longer period of time. But it’s branded for tourism. You say “Napa” or “Sonoma” you immediately think wine. You say “Paso Robles”, you think wine. You say “Santa Barbara”, you think palm trees, sun, beaches, and bikinis, not wine. Everyone asks, “How can we change it?” I say, “Don’t! Stay out of the spotlight while we figure it out.” Maybe Gruner Veltliner is perfect for growing, but Pinot Noir is the most marketable. Now there are progressive growers who choose to plant what’s best, not what is most marketable. There are makers who want to work with Gruner Veltliner and others like it. And there are drinkers who want to try Gruner Veltliner, that are more open than ever. I like to say Santa Barbara has unlimited potential.
On winemaking and service
Vallin was not started to be a money-maker. It was to keep four guys connected together. But once we started, we decided, “OK, we’re going to do some serious wine.” Lots of somms make wine, put juice in a bottle, put a label on it, we’re not doing that. We said, “So Syrah is not the most marketable wine. Syrah is a world-class grape, let’s get behind it.” Northern Rhone is the heart of Syrah, and we made it our focal point. We were in Burgundy, drinking Jamet Cote Rotie. Let that sink in. Vallin was on the label, we liked how it looked on the label. We researched and found it was a street name, then went further and found it was actually a surname. Vallin means valley dwellers, from people that originally settled the Rhone valley. We said, “That’s cool and simple, let’s go with it.” It’s exciting to see three years later, we sold out of the ‘twelve, and are just waiting for the ‘thirteen in the barrel to be ready to bottle.
Brian exams the well-stocked shelves at Les Marchands
Service for a sommelier is different than any other service. The court teaches specific standards of service, so that if the Queen of England asks you to do a wine service, you could deliver that. It’s very technically precise. With staff, it’s different. You take the clientele, the concept, into account. Les Marchands is not buttoned-up like formal fine dining. We’re very warm and approachable, and technically proficient. Usually it is one of these, but not both. This is without being stuffy or pretentious. We size up each guest. We tailor service to each guest, it’s all about how we meet them where they are. Michael Jordan, the sommelier not the basketball player, is a master sommelier and my mentor. He said, “It’s not how much you know, it’s how much you care.” That’s something that has stuck with me, so simple but so powerful. We guess where guests are at, and think how can we meet them there. Invariably every night there is one guest you could have done something better. And being attuned to the needs of others is something applicable to every area of life.
expect to experiment at Les Marchands wine bar & merchant, santa barbara
Most people look at our by the glass list and say, “What language is this?” But then we pour them a tasting and they’re in. We’ve found that “yeah, I’ll try it” makes up about ninety-percent of our clientele. When we originally told our investors we wanted mostly lesser-known European varietals on the list, they said, “Are you crazy?!” But these are balanced out by the local wines. There are tremendous values from strange places. Not just to be strange, but good, high-level wines. But they're not marketed, so they’re way underpriced.
What Brian described here played out in my experience at Les Marchands. Several staffers combined to accommodate my group's requests with recommendations that were right on target, and there were many unfamiliar wines available for tasting, along with attractive pricing. Wines by the glass change frequently, allowing for an ongoing educational process for those fortunate enough to be regular patrons.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchants
Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.
I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.
- Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
- Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
- Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
- Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
- Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
- Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46
I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome.
There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.
Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Best Of Los Angeles Wine, Service, And Dining
Impromptu tasting at Les Marchands
The standouts from my visit to Los Angeles and SoCal, from Laguna to Lompoc:
wine
- Sandhi Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - These first two are Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman's Santa Barbara projects. Full coverage here.
- Domaine De La Cote Sta Rita Hills 2012 - Pinot Noir...
- Terre Des Chardones "Marginal" 2012 - Found at Les Marchands. A funky, earthy Syrah-Grenache with a sweet hint to end.
- Calabretta Vino Rosso "Cala Cala" NV - Also from Les Marchands. "The magma in the body". Drink from Mount Etna.
- Marotti Campi Rubico Lacrima Di Morro D'Alba 2012 - Discovered at the Slow Wine event. The story here.
service
- Domaine De La Cote Tasting Room - Outstanding hospitality, throughout set up and a generous tasting. Lompoc
- Open Sesame - Friendly, thorough service and constant attention, from only one server. Long Beach
- Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant - Brian McClintic's thriving operation. Four staff members assisted with everything from setting up an impromptu tasting, to advising on a selection of Cote Rotie to take home. Santa Barbara
- Hotel Shangri-La Dining Room Bar - A right-proper mimosa, with just a splash of OJ, but they had me at Whistle Pig Rye. Santa Monica
- C'est La Vie Restaurant and Bakery - French foods and baked goods were good. The view of the ocean from the upstairs deck, along with entertaining service from "Gary Glitter" made the experience. Gary knows anything you need to know about the area. Laguna Beach
Kogi food truck delights
food
- Republique - I left wanting more. Read about it. 624 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles
- Open Sesame - Beef shawarma, lamb chops, hummus, garlic fried potatoes. Musar Jeune 2011. A great experience. Long Beach
- Kogi BBQ Truck - The sweet chili chicken quesadilla, Kogi dog, and various tacos on the hood of my rental. Various locations
- Tortilla Republic - Great sauces on both the duck enchiladas with a habanero cream sauce and mole chicken enchiladas. West Hollywood
- Ma 'n Pa Grocery - "World Famous Fried Chicken" every Wednesday...from a converted gas station. Long Beach
best cocktail
Patterson’s Nap at Melrose Umbrella Company - Cool drink in a cooler place. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Tangerine, Lemon, Campari. West Hollywood
best to be
Augustine Wine Bar - Now open! 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks
Red Wines That Are Primo!
Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:
Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35
Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37
Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38
Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29
Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19
Wine and Turkey Talk
Turkey Time
If there is a traditional meal of turkey and all its trimmings in your near future, does it require a similarly predictable wine? I think not. The likelihood of a larger group of people with a multitude of tastes and preferences is high, and the ease of accessibility to experiment with diverse and affordable wines that work for such a meal has never been greater. Why not broaden out in your wine and food pairing experience? Here are a variety of wine styles and recommendations, from expected to out of the norm, for turkey dinner on any day.
Reds
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Bright, with dominant red berries, spices, and hints of sweetness, even cola.
- Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - $20
- Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $52
Cote de Nuits Burgundy - Elegant expressions of Pinot Noir, complex, and earthy. Narrowing further, Nuits-St-Georges are typically reasonable in price.
Washington Syrah - Heat up with Rhone-style beauties aplenty. If Syrah is too hot and heavy for you, try a Washington Grenache or Cabernet Franc.
- Abeja Estate Syrah - $40
- K Vintners The Boy Grenache - $45
Whites
Oregon is turning out increasing numbers of intriguing white wines, with one to fit any occasion.
Sancerre - Aromatic and refreshing Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Champagne - Bubbles and the bird. It may surprise you.
What is your style: Traditionalist, contrarian, or both? Share your favorite wine and turkey finds.
Wine Picks For Your "Thirst"
I recently tasted newly released wines in the portfolio of Thirst Wine Merchants. Here are my standout picks:
- Bodegas LAN Vina Lanciano Reserva 2007 - Spicy, chewy Spanish Tempranillo/Mazuelo blend. SRP $25
- Sean Minor Point North Pinot Noir 2012 - I'm a big fan of their Carneros Pinots, and their Oregon offering is a winner! SRP $22
- Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc Estate Vineyard 2013 - Delicious, gravely with a mouthful of citrus. SRP $40
- K Vintners Clifton Hill Syrah Wahluke Slope 2011 - Bold (of course) with smoked meats and spices, and it sticks around. SRP $40
- Feraud-Brunel Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2011 - Solid Cotes-du-Rhone, with tobacco spice and leather. SRP $18
