
Van The Wine Man's Most Popular - 2015
Here is a recap of my most popular posts of 2015:
Wine-O wall at Brian McClintic's Les Marchands
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
The SOMM star talked about managing his insane schedule, promoting winemaking in Santa Barbara, and his philosophy on wine service.
Wine Talk With Rajat Parr
The two-time James Beard Award winner and extraordinary wine taster discussed his four current winemaking projects and the importance of trying different wines to expand your palate.
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
The man behind The Grilled Cheese Truck has ambitious and creative plans for such a simple and delicious staple of life.
Sandhi and Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars
Rajat Parr sat me up in his tasting room to try several examples of the excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Santa Barbara County.
A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello
Favorite memories from a drive up the mountain, with Paul Draper, Monte Bello assemblage, and pieces of Ridge history.
Brooks Lake Lodge, Wild West Luxury
Pinnacle Buttes view from Brooks Lake Lodge
Brooks Lake Lodge and Spa is a secluded hideaway near Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, The Continental Divide, and Jackson, Wyoming. If you find yourself searching for a luxury or all-inclusive lodging option in this territory, it is likely to show up. A unique combination of resort and ranch, it has upscale service and amenities in a wide open, scenic setting, with well-arranged activities to fulfill your every outdoor desire.
Dining is western gourmet to the fullest. Dinner features daily choices of entrees, like venison, walleye, or a bison tenderloin with horseradish glaze and roasted asparagus. There are locally inspired dishes, like a trout pâté salad, and always out of the ordinary sides, such as a gouda risotto. Afternoon tea, a meal in itself, offers a selection of cheeses, fruits, and warm, fresh-baked cookies. The Cowboy Bar is a popular gathering spot in the evening for lively conversation and libations. The wine list is brief but solid, with many of the wine (Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, Clos Du Bois for the house wine) and beverage names featured to match the rustic theme of the lodge. The wines, along with a selection of local beers and a full bar, are available for purchase, the only food or drink not included in the initial price.
Bison Tenderloin
The staff is loaded with passionate and completely-equipped personnel. Our fishing guide had a degree in wildlife management and concentration in fisheries. The wrangler that led our horse rides had a nursing degree and plans to pursue work in horse pharmaceuticals. The massage therapist is renowned in the area. The general manager is full of knowledge, and energy! He talked in depth about the history of the lodge, the land and ecology, and the variety of wildlife inhabiting the area. All this when he wasn't teaching a guest to shoot a bow and arrow, or leading a hike to the summit of the nearby Pinnacle Buttes. All the staff members were well-informed and prompt to assist with any request, regardless of their particular responsibilities. It is an extremely smooth-running operation.
Accommodations, from rooms and suites in the main lodge, to the numerous private log cabins, are modern rustic in style. All rooms are updated and fresh, with lodgepole pine furnishings, cozy wood burning stoves, and private porches or balconies to take in the beautiful views of the horizon. The spa is surprising, with a full-range of spa services, sauna, workout facility, and a gigantic, outdoor hot tub with another panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.
For an active luxury experience in the still somewhat wild west, give Brooks Lake Lodge a try!
Brooks Lake Lodge and Spa - 458 Brooks Lake Road, Dubois, WY 82513
Elway's, Denver - Winning Wine And Service
Visits to two of John Elway's upscale steakhouses in Denver could not have been under more opposite circumstances, yet both yielded outstanding experiences worth repeating.
Elway's Downtown
First, my wife and I were thrilled with an anniversary dinner at Elway's Downtown, inside the Ritz-Carlton. Arriving for a reservation, we were recognized and seated immediately in a cozy, semi-private booth, complete with flowers. Several members of management and staff cared for us throughout the evening, with Executive Sommelier Gail Oversteg taking the lead. She gave excellent recommendations from the wine list and food menu. A pair of truly prime steaks were perfectly prepared, and we are now loyal users of Elway's steak seasoning. Gail continued to exceed expectations throughout the evening. After I inquired about the aerator she used to decant our Burgundy, she produced a new, boxed and gift-bagged version of the device that we gladly purchased at cost.
On another trip, we made a spontaneous drop-in to Elway's at the airport, on a game day no less. Anxious about a short layover, yet hungry for great food, we cautioned the hostess of our dilemma. She mentioned that the menu would be limited (no prime steak this trip) for such a brief meal, but assured us it could be done. Our waiter, Andrew, was aware of our time frame when he introduced himself, and reassured us we were in good shape. A strong list of wines by the glass included selections like Guigal Cotes du Rhone and Acacia Pinot Noir. The Spicy Steak Chili was exactly that, with chopped chunks of beef bringing serious heat. Andrew presented the check immediately after our meal. We were in, out, and fully satisfied in twenty-five minutes!
Completely different experiences in scope, with identical happiness. Elway's has a high-five recommendation for wine, food, and service.
Elway's Downtown - Ritz-Carlton 1881 Curtis St. Denver, CO 80202
Elway's at DIA - Denver International Airport, B Concourse
Don't Judge - Simple Service
I have a friend who is a member of the Joseph Phelps Preferred Wine Club, and has verticals of Insignia and Backus Cabernet in storage. You might not pick him out of a lineup to be the wine collector. I witnessed a server in a full-service restaurant with a solid selection of wine offer my friend every drink available except the wine list. After the list was asked for and delivered, the server highlighted only wines by the glass. For whatever reason, this server had determined my friend was not a serious wine drinker.
A server in a restaurant with any wine program at all should have the list at the ready, if not on the table, when making introductions. After that, there are simply too many potential unknowns to judge a diner on appearance. If the server had offered the list going in, he might not have found out about my friend’s collection of wine, but he would certainly have known he was likely to order a bottle. When selling a full-service experience that is attracting sophisticated diners, it is a good rule to expect that they want your best, regardless of appearance. Or at least that they want to see your wine list.
Half-Price Wine On Sundays At Garozzo's, Kansas City
I am rarely in favor of discounting by full-service restaurants, but Garozzo's of Kansas City has a wine promotion that works splendidly: Half-Priced Wine Every Sunday
While enjoying your Chicken Spiedini on Sunday nights, you can take your pick of Garozzo's wines for half the listed prices. It is a sizable list, with numerous Italians to choose from, and is already reasonably priced. With the Sunday discount, your bottle may be less than retail, where you may have difficulty finding some of the selections. On my original Sunday trip, I found a 1998 Anselma Barolo for $40. Already brick in color, with classic tar and roses, and a sweet finish, this was the wine that solidified my Nebbiolo love.
Once you hit the one-hundred-dollar bottles, you get fifty-dollars off, but no wines are excluded from discounting, and Garozzo's has maintained Half-Priced Wine Sundays for many years. A great deal you can count on for wine, delicious food, and a "family" atmosphere...It is a combination that is difficult to top.
Garozzo's Ristorante - 526 Harrison St., Kansas City, MO 64106
One Flew South, Atlanta - First Class Fast
Any time I book a flight that has any layover in Atlanta, I get excited. Yes it is always busy, and often my flight is delayed, but that leaves more time to soak up the southern comforts of One Flew South. Self-described as "travel inspired provisions", with "spirited global fare", it is uncommonly good food and drink to find in an airport, or anywhere.
OFS Dirty South
The menus feature unique twists and combinations. The "OFS" Dirty South is my favorite. An open-face meatloaf sandwich, with pimento cheese, spinach, bacon, BBQ sauce, and a lightly fried egg on top. Or the Kentuckyaki Springer Chicken Fried Rice, with pickled okra. Then there is
The bar is a special place. There is the strong and reasonably priced wine list, with over thirty by the glass selections from around the world. A long list and variety of Bourbons and Rye Whiskeys available. Innovative cocktails are seemingly endless, or there are the more than properly prepared classics. The personalities, though, make the OFS bar what it is, moving with impressive speed, while never appearing out of control, and engaging in charming conversation.
The diverse service staff all know how to work quickly, yet still deliver a fine dining feeling. My servers have often inquired about flight times to be sure I would enjoy my meal and have time to get to my gate.
Even if you are not in concourse E, the trains between concourses are fast, and it is worth the extra effort. Next time you fly through Atlanta, let One Flew South slow things down for you.
One Flew South - Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Concourse E
A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin
I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.
Intriguing Diddle-Speak
My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.
But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk.
Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price.
This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.
Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting
I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular.
The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.
I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.
Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table.
Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98101
Best Of New York City Wine Service And Dining
Here are the standouts from my recent visit to New York.
21 Club Steak Tartare and Gin
Wine
- Bergadano Barolo Sarmassa 2007 at Elio's - A smooth and sweet Barolo to accompany a rich veal dish.
- E. Guigal Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007 at Peter Luger - On the lighter side, but accompanied the steak well.
- Claudia Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Dry Red Wine 2003 - Typically good Italian table wine in a Little Italy restaurant.
- Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011 at Les Halles Downtown
- Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose at Buddakan
Service
- The Carlyle - See my review
- Bergdorf Goodman Bar - While the restaurant was booked, with even a wait for the bar, the busy bartender quickly knew just the martini I was after.
- Ritz Carlton Battery Park Bar - Bar service at night was good, but Victor took note of me mid-morning. I was looking for the coffee service, which had been taken down, and a light snack for the road. He promptly returned with a large coffee and a box of baked goods, on the house!
- Peter Luger - Thorough service from seven people over the course of an hour.
- Les Halles Downtown - Excellent service from one waiter over the course of an hour.
"Side" pasta at Elio's
Dining
- Elio's - A serious old school Italian eatery served up a fine prosciutto and gorgonzola-stuffed veal chop, but I could not stop eating the bowl of al dente angel hair with garlic and parmesan.
- 21 Club - The classic "Speakeasy" Steak Tartare, matched by perfectly round, thin, and crisp Chicken Paillard with arugula.
- Peter Luger Steak House - Steak for two, creamed spinach, extra thick bacon, and extra-extra Peter Luger attitude.
- Les Halles Downtown - See my review
- Katz's Delicatessen - Pastrami, period.
Best Cocktail
Brooklyn Gin Martini with Lemon Peel at Bergdorf Goodman Bar
NYC Wine And Dining - Les Halles Downtown
Mignon de Porc Maison
Brasserie Les Halles, with two locations in Manhattan, boasts much history and hype. The juice blend that became V-8 was originated in the building that houses the Park Avenue location. Anthony Bourdain was formerly the executive chef there, and features the restaurant frequently in two cookbooks, Kitchen Confidential and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook. I recently visited the downtown location on a Friday night.
After a late night arrival near the Financial Distrct, Les Halles Downtown was a casual scene where it was easy to get a table. The main room was dark and seductive, with several couples and groups huddled at tables or along the fabulous bar. The bar stretches nearly the full length of the restaurant on one side, with shelves full of wine lining the back wall on either side of a large clock. Exotic red wood panels break up the golden yellow painted walls, with posters and prints positioned throughout. It is an authentic setting, one you feel you would find in Paris, with dining to match.
I started with Salade d’Auvergne, with arugula, bleu d’Auvergne, roasted walnuts and apples. Dinner included Mignon de Porc “Maison”, a pork tenderloin, with garlic confit and mashed potatoes, and classic Coq au Vin, with plentiful bacon and mushrooms. For beverages, I tasted the Spiced Mojito, made with lemongrass jalapeño syrup, and muddled mint, topped off with ginger beer, and a Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011. The wine, an entry-level Burgundy, was earthy and dry, with tart berries and good length that paired well with the flavors of the entrees. The wine list was not large, but had good variety among mostly French selections, all attractively priced. Upon another visit, I plan to have one of the prime steaks, billed as "American Beef, French Style".
Salade d'Auvergne
It could have been that I had one of the few tables being served at the end of the night, but service was pleasant and attentive from a primary waiter, who was assisted only for food delivery. While French service style may have a reputation for stiffness and air of superiority, I found myself feeling well-cared for throughout the experience, and would have gladly lingered for a coffee had time permitted.
Les Halles Downtown delivered a thoroughly satisfying, and reasonably-priced, dining experience, and took me even further out of town than I was.
Brasserie Les Halles on Park Avenue - 411 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10016
Brasserie Les Halles Downtown - 15 John Street, New York, New York 10038
Don't Run Out Of Wine - Simple Service
You put time and effort into deciphering a wine list, find the bottle that excites you, wait with anticipation for an extended time, and the server finally reports that the restaurant is out of it. Matthew Kaner names this scenario as a motivator for the "no wine list" concept of Bar Covell. Few occurrences have the ability to crash and burn a dining experience faster and more decisively.
A restaurant verifying available wines before each dining window should be an obvious and increasingly easy task. Wines without sufficient number can be removed from the list, or at the very least the wait staff will be prepared in advance for selections with limited quantities. Wines that do run out can be crossed off the list (or board) to notify staff and patrons, and manage expectations.
Why would management take a chance that you will not order that wine? Simple, consistent inventory management and adjustments, along with courteous communication, will insure the restaurant always has your wine satisfaction in mind.
Chez Nous - Fabulous French Off Sixth Street, Austin
Chez Nous is an intimate French bistro waiting to impress, yet completely unexpected at its address just off Sixth Street in Austin. I enjoyed two late night dining experiences during the managed chaos of SXSW, with an interesting variance in the satisfying service.
Cotes d'agneau Manon
The first visit was on a busy Friday night around ten. When I asked if they featured a good selection of French wines by the glass, the first staff member gave me a puzzled expression, confirmed the wines, and showed me to a table. Another server appeared concerned as I deliberated for several minutes over a glass of wine and salad. Five members of the staff visited my table to check on me throughout the evening, keeping me pleasantly content. About the time I declined anything further, I had a change in plans and decided I would have dessert. A server, having presented the check, appeared impatient and did not come back to the table that night. Nonetheless, I was well cared for as I enjoyed dessert and coffee, and I made plans to return another night for a full meal.
The second visit was on the following Tuesday night at eight, not quite as active in the restaurant. My primary server became the same person that did not return to the table on the previous evening. She recognized and greeted me enthusiastically. I concluded the previous events had been coincidence, as she and the team provided even more attentive and well-rounded service. Teamwork among staff members, which include the three French owners, was smooth and efficient, delivering a classy casual experience.
Profiterolles
Wine choices were many. My first night glass was Lascaux, a dry white blend from Languedoc. For the big meal, a nice Les Galets De Sauveterre Cotes du Rhone 2011. On both nights I had Salade Lyonnaise with a poached egg, the second night with large crumbled lardons. The server recommended Cotes d'agneau Manon, New Zealand lamb chops with a white bean ragou and broccolinis, as well as Entrecôte bearnaise, a ribeye with frites, which were excellent. For dessert, I loved the Profiterolles, two ice cream filled pastry puffs with chocolate sauce. Their "coffee" is a firm, bold Cafe Americano, which I was also thrilled to receive as my coffee to go.
Chez Nous has charming French country and vintage decor, complete with fresh flowers on the tables. A fun and interchangeable team will see to your needs and happiness diligently. The broad and authentic French menu is what Chez Nous is all about, though. It is understandable that they have thrived in such an unlikely location for over three decades, and is a total package that is to be desired.
Chez Nous - 510 Neches Street, Austin, TX 78701
Best Of SXSW Austin Wine Service & Dining
In Austin for the always insane SXSW Interactive, which now includes expansive food and beverage programming, there was not sufficient brain power or time for a proper tasting. Also, as always, I enjoyed a good selection of wine lists and experiences.
Chez Nous wine list
Wine lists
- Carmelo’s
- Chez Nous - Small and fun, encouraging your French experimentation with several by the glass choices.
- Second Bar + Kitchen
- Max's Wine Dive - Good opportunities to try bottles that were opened the day before, but larger pours would be even more attractive.
- Vince Young Steakhouse
Service
- Carmelo’s - Fast, frequent, and everyone is smiling.
- Chez Nous - Service from five people in a small, cozy space. Accommodating and on-point.
- Second Bar + Kitchen - Great from the start, when the hostess noticed the table wobbled and worked on the base until it was balanced.
- Biscuits & Groovy - Service from a food trailer? A great display of anticipation, from what to eat, to where to find coffee around the corner.
- Old Pecan Street Cafe - They were happy to seat and serve us five minutes before close.
Gin & Jam at Second Bar + Kitchen
Dining
- Chez Nous - Lyonnaise salad with bacon, lamb chops with white bean ragu, French wine and service. The Profiterolles dessert is special. Their "coffee" is a bold Americano, even to go.
- Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken - Having dined at multiple locations, this is second only to the Memphis original. Crisp and spicy!
- Biscuits & Groovy - Gloria Gaynor. Johnny Hash. Creative, cool, and delicious.
- Easy Tiger - A fabulous chocolate almond pastry, filled with almond cream in the bake shop for breakfast. The beer garden for later.
- Vince Young Steakhouse - It is difficult to beat a well-stocked bar and prime beef.
Best Cocktail
Gin & Jam at Second Bar + Kitchen
Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.
I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.
- Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
- Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
- Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
- Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
- Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
- Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46
I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome.
There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.
Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Las Vegas Wine, Service, and Dining Winners
Wine bar lineup at Due Forni
After researching dozens of restaurants and trying thirteen, here are my top Vegas recommendations.
Wine
- Giordanino Teresio Colline Saluzzesi Saluces Nebbiolo 2006 at Due Forni Pizza and Wine - Dry and leathery, with red berries and hints of mint. A nice surprise by the glass. A select list of predominantly Italian varietals to compliment the menu.
- Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010 at db Brasserie - Click for my reviews
- Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2009 at Chada Thai and Wine - Dry minerals with grapefruit largesse and more citrus. Sweet on its own but a perfect match with spicy Thai. A broad list beginning with Rieslings, but encompassing the world of wine at great prices.
- Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV at db Brasserie
- Fabricca di San Martino Arcipressi 2012 at Chada Thai and Wine - A solid drink-now Tuscan blend, juicy with a medium finish.
Service
- db Brasserie - A thoroughly satisfying experience, from bar to table, led by Head Sommelier Devin Zendel. See my review here.
- Bouchon Bistro - Thomas Keller's spot on the strip. They gladly seated my party fifteen minutes before lunch closed, and gave us full attention until well after. Also, the head server offered me coffee to go, a personal difference maker in service.
- Due Forni Pizza and Wine - West toward Red Rock Canyon, I was thrilled by the small but diverse Italian wine list and my server's constant attention. Management here clearly has serious Italian wine fans in mind.
- Chada Thai and Wine - Also off the path, small and easy to miss, but don't! Outstanding food with the best value wine list in Vegas awaits. Sommelier and chef Bank Atcharawan has built a wine and food experience around his love for Riesling, but the entire list is of high-quality picks and best-value prices. Servers on Thanksgiving were attentive and helpful with food and wine menus, and happy to secure us a cab.
- Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Not a destination, but if spending time at Mandalay Bay, a go-to option, 24/7. I received pleasant and fast service during visits at all times of the day, whether picking up coffee, breakfast at the bar, or table service.
Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro
Food
- Steak Frites at db Brasserie - Perfectly cooked flat iron, and a bargain on the Prix Fixe menu. Click for my review.
- Spicy Herbs Spring Rolls at Chada Thai and Wine - Fresh and crisp, with ginger, lime, mint, and spicy for sure.
- Duck Panang at Chada Thai and Wine - Crispy duck with lime and a delicious spicy Panang sauce.
- Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro - Gourmet corned beef hash with eggs and toast.
- NY Style Pastrami at Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Thick cut and tender with a spicy mustard. I didn't miss cheese at all.
Best cocktail
French 75 at Bouchon Bistro
The best in wine and service are often found in the same place, and dining under the bright lights of Vegas is no exception. It was clear which restaurants give priority to their wine program, and to service and training.
Where are your favorite places to wine and dine in Las Vegas?
Before You Travel, Where's The Wine?
As a systematic consumer, I do excessive amounts of research to ensure that my experiences are satisfying. This is especially the case before traveling, and is work I consider critical to happiness and well worth the effort. Here are my best practices for uncovering the outstanding before you hit the road.
Search best of...
Most cities have a dominant magazine and entertainment newspaper, both of which publish annual Best Of lists, with fairly thorough and specific dining and drinking reviews. Also scan newspaper food and wine sections and national publications like Food and Wine or Travel and Leisure that focus on outstanding experiences. Examine these, giving considerable attention to the publications' choices, and less to the readers' votes. Look for your personal keywords. (Mine are Fine Dining, Sommeliers, Wine, Service, and Servers) When you find an interesting target, go to the web site, give it a once over, and save it in a list of destinations for that city if it passes the eye test.
The next search is for local, high-traffic blogs about food and wine in the city. On blogs by respectable writers, you are likely to find more choices, but this is primarily for in-depth information, and confirmation of your interest in your initial list of options. You will also learn of news and events that you may want to take into consideration for your travel itinerary.
Social-driven sites like Urban Spoon, Eater, Yelp, and Trip Advisor can deliver additional layers of confirmation. This is chiefly visual, through the volumes of non-staged photographs posted by diners. Low ratings on these sites are a red flag for me, leading to further scrutiny of a potential choice, while high ratings and extreme comments are taken with a grain of salt.
Narrow the field
Once you compile a satisfactory list of alternatives, make closer inspections of the chosen few. Which ones have a version of your favorite dish, an acclaimed wine list, or an intriguing new adventure? Does the wine list have a good selection with descriptions and years, not to mention reasonable prices? View the "about" and staff pages, looking for indications that the restaurant caters to your style and preferences. Contemplate the area surrounding the establishment, it's convenience to your location, dress, (yes, still) and hours of operation.
If you're involving others in the dining decisions, now is the time to share the short list with your traveling companions. I provide a list of links with brief notes about my findings when asking for opinions.
Even if you have made your decisions by now, go ahead and look at social media. Many restaurants, chefs, and sommeliers are active socially, and eager to connect and share. There are often valuable pieces of information, such as limited offers or special events, that are delivered exclusively via social.
take note
So you have started early, made reservations for potentially great dining, and built up your anticipation. Always do a last-minute review for breaking news or changes at the restaurants. It is disappointing to realize too late that the entree you were excited to try went out with last season's menu, that the restaurant is closed for vacation, or closed. While traveling, make notes about your meals, beverages, and service, however brief. You will begin to notice your own trends, your personal Big Wine and Food Data, and also the correlation between good wine and excellent service.
Pre-travel research takes time, but pays off with fulfilling wining and dining. Wherever your destination, delve into the wealth of information that is readily available, and make every meal an enjoyable experience.
White Sand Weekend - Henderson Park Inn, Destin
Henderson Park Inn of Destin, Florida, delivered on a reputation as one of the best and most romantic beach destinations in the United States. Adults-only and steps away from a private white sand beach and blue ocean, it felt far removed from the bustling communities nearby.
My wife's white sand crab sculpture
Overall service at the Inn was pleasant. Reservations for a holiday (Labor Day) weekend were challenging to arrange, but after several conversations that included ongoing reassurances, we were accommodated as requested. An airport car service employed by the Inn was efficient. Upon our late evening arrival, we were greeted by a staff member, who did not flinch to help with our luggage. The front desk was friendlier, describing the amenities and securing for us a dinner table at the on-sight Beach Walk Cafe, even though it was after restaurant hours. A variety of front desk staffers maintained enthusiastic and eager service throughout our three-night stay.
Smoked Tomato Soup
A daily breakfast buffet and omelette bar were cleanly executed, with entertaining interaction with the staff behind the bar. Table service, cared for by the same staff members, was fast and frequent, never allowing the coffee to cool. Service at a daily happy hour in the tiki bar on the deck was similarly quick and attentive. It could be improved by additional staff, with only one bartender for up to twenty patrons at a time in a confined space.
The service during dinner, the only full-service hours of the day, was passable on all three nights, with inconsistent attention, questionable knowledge of what was available, and one dramatic mid-meal delay of over an hour. The Manager was helpful in every instance, personally seeing to our eventual satisfaction. There was a very well-stocked bar, although it was available only during dinner hours. The wine list included a nice variety of styles and prices to accompany the broad menu, the highlight of which was the smoked tomato soup, poured over diced shrimp. I tried several entrees, including fresh seafoods, and all were well presented and flavorful. Based on the service, I would not seek out the Cafe independent of a stay at the Inn. However, it was extremely convenient to have it literally next door to our room, and I had no desires to explore dining options elsewhere.
I was looking for an upscale, near all-inclusive beach retreat in Destin. Relaxing and somehow secluded, Henderson Park Inn is a spot worthy of consideration for such a getaway.
It's All About The Experience - Paul Botamer of Fearing's
As an element of my exploration of wine and restaurant service, I remain on the lookout for conversations with wine celebrities, both in and outside of the industry. To follow up on my review of Fearing's, here is my conversation with Wine Director and Advanced Sommelier Paul Botamer.
Paul Botamer is full of wit and wine wisdom to embellish your experience at Fearing’s Restaurant, Dallas. When I found him in the Rattlesnake Bar, I asked, “Are you Paul?” With a look of concern, he replied, “It depends how much money I owe you,” before cracking a grin. Following introductions, he offered comments on his philosophy of wine service.
Regarding how he got his start in wine service: Paul was a history major when he had opportunity work at a fine dining restaurant. At age twenty-two, while keeping himself fit to play college basketball, he had not even had a drink. The restaurant employed several sommeliers, and he was quickly exposed to wine's historical and social relevance. He realized wine service was what he wanted pursue. “I saw that I can never get bored, and the more you know about wine, you realize how much you don’t know.”
On emotional connections made with wine: “Wine is a social experience. If you have a bottle of wine in a picnic basket with the right young lady, it doesn’t matter if it’s a four-dollar bottle of Riesling. You will remember that wine.” Paul spoke of the social significance of wine, and how the sight of a wine label that is connected to a special experience, or simply hearing the wine's name, remains impactful throughout one's life.
On working with celebrity chef Dean Fearing: "Dean gets everyone on the staff involved." He spoke about how easy it becomes to get excited about the resulting menu. “Imagine what it’s like for a young staff member, just out of culinary school, and Dean Fearing asks, “”What do you think?””
Criteria for appearing on the wine list at Fearing's: “Everything on the list should be something I am excited for you try. There are so many great wines out there, if I’m not excited about it, you shouldn’t be trying it. There’s just not any sense in that.”
On coaching the staff on wine and food parings: Paul encourages passionate recommendations. “There are over four-hundred wines here, and for anything someone orders probably forty wines will pair with it. I tell (the staff) to find the wines you are most excited about, your passion will show, and (the diners) will see how excited you are, then they get excited.”
Paul later escorted my teenage daughter to me, and commented about wine with his daughter. “When we make dinner at home, I give my daughter, who is sixteen, just a little sip, so she knows there’s nothing mysterious going on.” I heartily agree with positioning wine as educational and appreciable rather than reserved for mindless guzzling and secrecy.
Summing up what to expect at Fearing's, Paul stated, “Dean provides people with a dining experience. Our customers can afford whatever they want, and what they really want is that experience.”