Westbank Grill - Four Seasons Jackson Hole

The Four Seasons Jackson Hole is an ultra-luxury resort in a breathtaking setting, located near the base of the Grand Teton mountain range. Somehow, Westbank Grill exceeds these surroundings by delivering an excellent wine and dining experience.

The Food: A perfectly prepared 32oz dry aged American “Kobe” Wagyu bone-in beef rib eye with grilled vegetables and roasted mushrooms with Wyoming Whiskey, rosemary, and garlic confit. Five intriguing sauces accompanied the beef, including huckleberry pudding and horseradish cream. 

The Wine: Jackson Hole Winery The Outlaw Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, a local product. Sourced from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, it showed dark fruit and a velvety smooth finish, and meshed well with the beef. The winery does production nearby, at over 6,000 feet!

The Service: A true team effort was flawless from greeting to goodnight. Several staff members seamlessly transitioned throughout the night after our initial lead server became ill. Had she  not made such a strong first impression, we would not have noticed that our service was being managed on the fly. There was no indication that anything went off-plan. 

The Atmosphere: From an open booth featuring what must be the restaurant's best view, I felt completely at ease in the large dining room. It is the epitome of a luxurious while rustic theme, with a majestic stone fireplace dominating the center of the room, and floor-to-ceiling windows on either side overlooking the mountain and ski lifts. 

Westbank Grill in Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole - 7680 Granite Loop Rd., Teton Village, WY  83025

Elway's, Denver - Winning Wine And Service

Visits to two of John Elway's upscale steakhouses in Denver could not have been under more opposite circumstances, yet both yielded outstanding experiences worth repeating. 

Elway's Downtown

First, my wife and I were thrilled with an anniversary dinner at Elway's Downtown, inside the Ritz-Carlton. Arriving for a reservation, we were recognized and seated immediately in a cozy, semi-private booth, complete with flowers. Several members of management and staff cared for us throughout the evening, with Executive Sommelier Gail Oversteg taking the lead. She gave excellent recommendations from the wine list and food menu. A pair of truly prime steaks were perfectly prepared, and we are now loyal users of Elway's steak seasoning. Gail continued to exceed expectations throughout the evening. After I inquired about the aerator she used to decant our Burgundy, she produced a new, boxed and gift-bagged version of the device that we gladly purchased at cost. 

On another trip, we made a spontaneous drop-in to Elway's at the airport, on a game day no less. Anxious about a short layover, yet hungry for great food, we cautioned the hostess of our dilemma. She mentioned that the menu would be limited (no prime steak this trip) for such a brief meal, but assured us it could be done. Our waiter, Andrew, was aware of our time frame when he introduced himself, and reassured us we were in good shape. A strong list of wines by the glass included selections like Guigal Cotes du Rhone and Acacia Pinot Noir. The Spicy Steak Chili was exactly that, with chopped chunks of beef bringing serious heat. Andrew presented the check immediately after our meal. We were in, out, and fully satisfied in twenty-five minutes! 

Completely different experiences in scope, with identical happiness. Elway's has a high-five recommendation for wine, food, and service.

Elway's Downtown - Ritz-Carlton 1881 Curtis St. Denver, CO  80202

Elway's at DIA - Denver International Airport, B Concourse

A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin

I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.

Intriguing Diddle-Speak

My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.

But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk. 

Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price. 

This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.

Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541

Wine Tasting And Changing Tastes

Have you ever found a wine you really enjoyed, so you bought more, but when you tried it again you were really disappointed? While the wine could be different, it more likely could have been factors affecting your sense of taste that was responsible for the let down. 

A multitude of signals are combined by our brains to tell us what we are tasting. The process is complicated by approximately everything around and about us. Consider just a few things that can have impact on taste:

• Air
• Weather
• Our and others' clothing
• Who sat at the table before us
• Fragrances, candles, and air fresheners
• What was used to clean the glass, table, or room
• What we ate or drank earlier
• Our mood

The influences on our individual tastes are limitless and confounding. And cause constant adapting, expanding or contracting, and changing of our tastes. If you have a disappointment with a wine you previously liked, give it another try later. Your tastes may be leveraged by something other than the wine!

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting

I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular. 

The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.

I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.

Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table. 

Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA  98101

Best Of New York City Wine Service And Dining

Here are the standouts from my recent visit to New York.

21 Club Steak Tartare and Gin

Wine

1. Bergadano Barolo Sarmassa 2007 at Elio's - A smooth and sweet Barolo to accompany a rich veal dish.
2. E. Guigal Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007 at Peter Luger - On the lighter side, but accompanied the steak well.
3. Claudia Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Dry Red Wine 2003 - Typically good Italian table wine in a Little Italy restaurant.
4. Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011 at Les Halles Downtown
5. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose at Buddakan

Service

1. The Carlyle - See my review
2. Bergdorf Goodman Bar - While the restaurant was booked, with even a wait for the bar, the busy bartender quickly knew just the martini I was after. 
3. Ritz Carlton Battery Park Bar - Bar service at night was good, but Victor took note of me mid-morning. I was looking for the coffee service, which had been taken down, and a light snack for the road. He promptly returned with a large coffee and a box of baked goods, on the house!
4. Peter Luger - Thorough service from seven people over the course of an hour.
5. Les Halles Downtown - Excellent service from one waiter over the course of an hour.

"Side" pasta at Elio's

Dining

1. Elio's - A serious old school Italian eatery served up a fine prosciutto and gorgonzola-stuffed veal chop, but I could not stop eating the bowl of al dente angel hair with garlic and parmesan.
2. 21 Club - The classic "Speakeasy" Steak Tartare, matched by perfectly round, thin, and crisp Chicken Paillard with arugula.
3. Peter Luger Steak House - Steak for two, creamed spinach, extra thick bacon, and extra-extra Peter Luger attitude.
4. Les Halles Downtown - See my review
5. Katz's Delicatessen - Pastrami, period.

Best Cocktail

Brooklyn Gin Martini with Lemon Peel at Bergdorf Goodman Bar

Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine

Dave Danhi has compiled a storied career as an award winning chef of renowned restaurants, including Roxbury Supper Club and Water Grill in Los Angeles. More recently, he created one of the most popular food trucks in Los Angleles, The Grilled Cheese Truck, and built his vision into a one-hundred-million-dollar IPO. I had a conversation about what is next for Dave over wine before his SouthBites presentation at SXSW Interactive.

u.s. Veterans and Military Bases

The Grilled Cheese Truck franchise plan is for the first one-hundred trucks to be run by veterans. Retired General Wesley Clark is signed on to promote the program and recruit veterans. Management of a team, maintenance of a truck, all the operations involved in a restaurant, scheduling of locations, and complying with legal requirements all come into play on a daily basis for a food trucker. Dave feels that the training, skill set, and mentality of qualified military personnel make for a model food truck franchisee. Locations are expected to be easily accessible for military bases, with airports to follow.

Upscale Grilled cheese, With Wine!

In the future, Dave plans for brick and mortar, sit down versions of the Grilled Cheese franchise, which he expects to become hubs of their communities. You might order your custom grilled cheese, then receive assistance with the best wine pairing while you wait for it to be made. A "between fast and fast casual" atmosphere will keep service simple and brisk, while patrons will feel comfortable hanging out or watching big screen televisions. Some screens will feature dedicated live feeds of social interaction, where photos and conversations are shared in real time. Gourmet food and wine in a cool, casual setting. 

Who would have thought that a simplest staple like the grilled cheese sandwich could grow from a single food truck into a multi-faceted national brand, complete with a cause. Dave Danhi saw it, and appears up to the task of making it happen. I look forward to, say, a Plain and Simple Melt of sharp cheddar...with Barolo!