Van The Wine Man's Most Popular - 2015
Here is a recap of my most popular posts of 2015:
Wine-O wall at Brian McClintic's Les Marchands
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
The SOMM star talked about managing his insane schedule, promoting winemaking in Santa Barbara, and his philosophy on wine service.
Wine Talk With Rajat Parr
The two-time James Beard Award winner and extraordinary wine taster discussed his four current winemaking projects and the importance of trying different wines to expand your palate.
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
The man behind The Grilled Cheese Truck has ambitious and creative plans for such a simple and delicious staple of life.
Sandhi and Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars
Rajat Parr sat me up in his tasting room to try several examples of the excellent Chardonnay and Pinot Noir coming out of Santa Barbara County.
A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello
Favorite memories from a drive up the mountain, with Paul Draper, Monte Bello assemblage, and pieces of Ridge history.
One Year Of Wine
Today marks one year of Van The Wine Man online.
At Peter Luger - Reservations in background
It has been fun traveling from coast to coast, connecting with many people responsible for delivering outstanding wines and restaurant service. Then, meeting even more consumers like myself, and sharing our experiences. The exploration was exhilarating, and memories satisfying.
I am even more excited about the next year. This first year was about proving to myself that I could keep the blog consistent, and make it relevant. Now, I expect an upgrade, from more helpful and timely content, to greater interaction with fellow and future winos.
Good wine, and learning all about it, continues to become more easily accessible. I will continue on the path of guiding you to memorable and satisfying wining and dining experiences, and hope you will share your discoveries. Thank you for going on this journey with me.
Pour The Wine - Simple Service
Over-pouring of wine may be the norm, but what if instead there was no pouring? Recently, a server in an established restaurant opened my bottle of wine, sat it on the table, and departed. I waited a few minutes before pouring it myself, determining it had been forgotten. I kept waiting for the server to offer to refill the glass, but it was not going to happen. After removing the cork, wine service was over for the evening, and I poured the entire bottle over the course of the meal. The server handled food and water, I did not witness any other bottles of wine being served, and overall service was agreeable. I was left to wonder.
A server in a restaurant where a bottle of wine is frequently on the ticket ought to be prepared to pour it. Just not too much.
Westbank Grill - Four Seasons Jackson Hole
The Four Seasons Jackson Hole is an ultra-luxury resort in a breathtaking setting, located near the base of the Grand Teton mountain range. Somehow, Westbank Grill exceeds these surroundings by delivering an excellent wine and dining experience.
The Food: A perfectly prepared 32oz dry aged American “Kobe” Wagyu bone-in beef rib eye with grilled vegetables and roasted mushrooms with Wyoming Whiskey, rosemary, and garlic confit. Five intriguing sauces accompanied the beef, including huckleberry pudding and horseradish cream.
The Wine: Jackson Hole Winery The Outlaw Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, a local product. Sourced from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma, it showed dark fruit and a velvety smooth finish, and meshed well with the beef. The winery does production nearby, at over 6,000 feet!
The Service: A true team effort was flawless from greeting to goodnight. Several staff members seamlessly transitioned throughout the night after our initial lead server became ill. Had she not made such a strong first impression, we would not have noticed that our service was being managed on the fly. There was no indication that anything went off-plan.
The Atmosphere: From an open booth featuring what must be the restaurant's best view, I felt completely at ease in the large dining room. It is the epitome of a luxurious while rustic theme, with a majestic stone fireplace dominating the center of the room, and floor-to-ceiling windows on either side overlooking the mountain and ski lifts.
Westbank Grill in Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole - 7680 Granite Loop Rd., Teton Village, WY 83025
Don't Judge - Simple Service
I have a friend who is a member of the Joseph Phelps Preferred Wine Club, and has verticals of Insignia and Backus Cabernet in storage. You might not pick him out of a lineup to be the wine collector. I witnessed a server in a full-service restaurant with a solid selection of wine offer my friend every drink available except the wine list. After the list was asked for and delivered, the server highlighted only wines by the glass. For whatever reason, this server had determined my friend was not a serious wine drinker.
A server in a restaurant with any wine program at all should have the list at the ready, if not on the table, when making introductions. After that, there are simply too many potential unknowns to judge a diner on appearance. If the server had offered the list going in, he might not have found out about my friend’s collection of wine, but he would certainly have known he was likely to order a bottle. When selling a full-service experience that is attracting sophisticated diners, it is a good rule to expect that they want your best, regardless of appearance. Or at least that they want to see your wine list.
Extreme Accommodation - Raya At Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel
Solid restaurant service is often accomplished by simply accommodating a diner's request, and the best in the business know how to over-deliver on all expectations. But few achieve stunning service, which my wife and I experienced at Raya inside the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel.
Ready And Willing Service
Stunning views of the ocean 150 feet below
We were not guests of the hotel, nor were they expecting us. It was a spontaneous visit while on a coastal drive, with expectations only of "something good at a Ritz." But it was three in the afternoon, the restaurants were closed, and it would be almost two hours before one of the bars opened. We saw a busy server inside Raya, and asked if there were anywhere on the property we could get wine and a snack. He was easy-going and engaging, appearing to empathize with our plight. He invited us into the empty restaurant, where he showed us the fantastic views of the beach and ocean below, before asking us to take a seat at a table. He said he would see what he could arrange for us.
Above And Beyond Service
When he returned with waters, he asked if we had any specific wines or snacks in mind. We were open to anything considering the circumstances, but he pressed us on wine. I mentioned that I had been on a French Syrah trend. He departed again, returning shortly with a platter of cheeses, nuts, and olives, simple and satisfying. He explained that Raya did not have any French wines by the glass, but that he had something in the works. Soon, he was back again, this time with three glasses of French reds, including a Syrah, from the neighboring wine bar.
We were shocked at the lengths to which this lone waiter went to give us an unforgettable experience. He looked after us for over an hour, while tending to his planned duties. If this is how the Raya staff treats drop-ins, the treatment when they are actually open for business must be special indeed!
Raya, Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel - One Ritz-Carlton Dr., Dana Point, CA 92629
A Visit To Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello
I visited Ridge Vineyards' Monte Bello Estate high atop the Santa Cruz Mountains during the final assemblage of their 2006 flagship wine. I recently happened upon a supply of the wine, and enjoyed recalling one of my best winery experiences.
Paul Draper - Legendary Winemaker
Anything Ridge begins with Paul Draper, the chief winemaker since 1969 and CEO since 1988. Draper is one of the most-decorated winemakers in the world, including the James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine and Spirits, which he won shortly before my visit in 2007. He is an advocate for quality and transparency in winemaking, and Ridge has listed all ingredients on their labels since 2012. It was intriguing to have a conversation with Paul at ease in his element. With one of wine's greatest resumes, he remains eagerly hospitable. When setting up my visit, I copied three Ridge employees on my request email, and who do you think replied first and most-graciously? That's right, Paul Draper.
Monte Bello Assemblage
Tasting the individual components of the 2006 Monte Bello was extremely interesting, with guidance from Ridge vice president of winemaking for Monte Bello, Eric Baugher. A Santa Cruz-area native who grew up farming before earning degrees in biochemistry and molecular biology, Baugher has been with Ridge since 1994. During the tasting, he explained in depth the constantly-refined science of winemaking at Ridge. The Monte Bello is a Bordeaux-style blend is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc grapes, all grown on the Monte Bello Estate. Draper likes to say, "Wines make themselves", and the cool, mountain-top climate and terroir undoubtedly "make" this standout wine as much as the winemakers.
Ridge Vineyards and Wine History
2006 marked the thirtieth anniversary of the famed Judgement of Paris, where the 1971 Ridge Monte Bello placed fifth. It was celebrated with a re-tasting of the same wines from the seventies, and this time around, the Monte Bello lead the way for the now dominant American wines. The 2006 version is promoted as a "direct descendant" of the winning wine. But sentimental feelings for the 2006 aside, any year is likely to impress. At the assemblage tasting I also savored a couple of glasses of the 1978. Browned at the edges, yet bright and fresh, with a fantastic(!) taste of forest floor, this library selection was still very much alive. Always concentrated and complex, Ridge Monte Bello is built to please now or for the long-haul.
Along with the excellent wine and conversation, the humility and commitment to great wine at Ridge must be appreciated. During my visit, there was not a peep of the accolades from the thirty-year anniversary of the Judgement, nor Paul Draper's James Beard Award. All talk was about the current and future wines. If you have the opportunity, take the long, winding road up the mountain to Ridge, a unique and memorable wine experience.
Ridge Vineyards, Monte Bello - 17100 Montebello Road, Cupertino, CA 95014
Italian Wine Food And Family - Jimmy's Food Store, Dallas
Jimmy's Food Store is a family-owned neighborhood market, situated in Old East Dallas between Deep Ellum and Lower Greenville. The history is what you would imagine of an Italian family business, passing from one generation to the next, and focusing more, then completely, on Italian food and wines. The tempo of the staff is fast-moving and straightforward, brief but complete with information and recommendations. There is a melting pot of customers roaming about at any given time, grocery shopping, picking up lunch, eating in the store, and drinking wine!
Italian Market, Butcher, and Deli
Hot Italian Sausage
The grocery and butcher stand are packed with imported Italian products and fresh foods. Pastas, gravy, bread, produce...Try a few cuts of Piemontese beef on your grill. And if you are not waiting until later, be sure to experience a sandwich from the deli. Hot Italian Sausage, with cheeses, sweet peppers, and onions is my pick. There is the Italian Stallion, Muffuletta, even a Cuban, all made fresh and delicious. You can find a seat at a table in front of the store, soak up the bustling activity and conversation going on around you, and savor your sandwich with a glass of wine.
Wine...Italian Wine
Yes, wine is served by the glass in the store. Very good wine, for a price of four dollars. It comes from a large-format bottle or box behind the counter. But the real wine fills several aisle of the market. Almost any Italian varietal is available, with a full-range but still at very reasonable prices. And there are only Italian wines. There will always be several bargain picks, perhaps a half-price table, and potentially significant discounts on some great Barolos, Brunellos, and Amarones. This is one of the reasons you want to subscribe to the newsletter below. Depending on timing, you might find autographed bottles in the racks from famous winemakers that have visited Jimmy's.
Winemaker Dinners
Jimmy's regularly hosts influential figures in Italian winemaking for dinners in the Circolo del Vino, the wine room. "Generous" is the best description of these events, which are open to the public. It is an opportunity to meet and learn from some of wine's big names, and socialize with a group of like-minded Italian wine lovers. Several food courses are accompanied by even more wine courses, in a festive atmosphere, at a steal of a price. There might be door prizes, or a bottle of wine to go for everyone. The email newsletter is the way in to these events.
You are not likely to simply run across Jimmy's unless you are looking for it. If you happen to be in or passing through Dallas, scout it out in advance. You will be pleased with the effort!
Sign up to receive email invitations to winemaker dinners, wine and food specials, and more from Jimmy's.
Jimmy's Food Store - 4901 Bryan Street, Dallas, TX 75206
Carny Tactics Are Not For Restaurants
I am all for a trip to the fair, especially with wine increasingly available at such events. But use of the refined techniques witnessed in food stands and gaming booths in a full-service dining establishment is unexpected and irritating. I recently experienced a complete assault of carny activity in one setting.
- Front Man - There was a man on the street in front of the restaurant, quietly hailing passers-by to come inside, where they could "be seated immediately". I attempted to keep walking, but when my wife and I paused to look at the menu, we were gently, enthusiastically herded inside. We saw the presumed maitre d' pass the man cash as we were seated and he returned to the street.
- Purveyor of...Wine - A server approached promptly, inquiring if we would be interested in wine with dinner. An extensive pitch ensued, proclaiming the variety of wines available, the deals that were offered, but most-strenuously the popularity and value of the house wines. I asked what the house wines were. "Red and white", was the answer. I asked the varietal of the red, so he insisted on bringing a taste. He returned with a new bottle, opened it without presenting it to us, and poured us both full glasses. At no time did he offer a list of the great selection of wines. We tasted the wine and accepted the bottle.
- Flower Petal-er - On the heels of the wine man was what can only be described as a sweet little old lady with a bouquet of fresh flowers. "Flower for the beautiful lady?" Ten dollars was the price for the single rose, but Wife of Wine Man was smiling.
- Accordion Player - Throughout the evening, an elderly gentleman made his way from table to table to bar, and back again, playing the same three tunes on his accordion. When he arrived at our table, while asking if we could play a song for us, and pausing thoughtfully before choosing one of his three songs, he never broke eye-contact with my wife. Another ten dollars.
- Photographer - After our meal, while I was already anxious for the check, we were approached by a gentleman who offered to take our picture, saying only, "Picture?" I declined. Apparently not understanding, he continued, repeating again, "Picture?" We accepted the Polaroid, for the small sum of ten dollars.
- Gratuity Included - After an extended wait, our server presented the check, which included a twenty-percent tip, then promptly disappeared. The manager, who thus far had hovered over the dining room the entire evening, was also missing. I waited briefly, then paid the check with cash, down to the penny.
It was as though a team of carnies separated from their circus had taken control of this restaurant. I was a willing participant, and have no excuses. But afterward, all I could think about was the inattention by the server, which was apparently intentional to allow for the interruptions by the regularly-scheduled peddlers. And that I paid forty dollars more than I had planned for this "experience". The only positive was that my wife thought the side show was fun, and hung the photo in her office. Should I encounter another operation of this sort, I will do my part by avoiding it. Hopefully such tactics are relegated to the midways of amusement parks.
Have you experienced a borderline con in a restaurant?
One Flew South, Atlanta - First Class Fast
Any time I book a flight that has any layover in Atlanta, I get excited. Yes it is always busy, and often my flight is delayed, but that leaves more time to soak up the southern comforts of One Flew South. Self-described as "travel inspired provisions", with "spirited global fare", it is uncommonly good food and drink to find in an airport, or anywhere.
OFS Dirty South
The menus feature unique twists and combinations. The "OFS" Dirty South is my favorite. An open-face meatloaf sandwich, with pimento cheese, spinach, bacon, BBQ sauce, and a lightly fried egg on top. Or the Kentuckyaki Springer Chicken Fried Rice, with pickled okra. Then there is
The bar is a special place. There is the strong and reasonably priced wine list, with over thirty by the glass selections from around the world. A long list and variety of Bourbons and Rye Whiskeys available. Innovative cocktails are seemingly endless, or there are the more than properly prepared classics. The personalities, though, make the OFS bar what it is, moving with impressive speed, while never appearing out of control, and engaging in charming conversation.
The diverse service staff all know how to work quickly, yet still deliver a fine dining feeling. My servers have often inquired about flight times to be sure I would enjoy my meal and have time to get to my gate.
Even if you are not in concourse E, the trains between concourses are fast, and it is worth the extra effort. Next time you fly through Atlanta, let One Flew South slow things down for you.
One Flew South - Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Concourse E
A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin
I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.
Intriguing Diddle-Speak
My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.
But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk.
Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price.
This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.
Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting
I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular.
The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.
I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.
Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table.
Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA 98101
Wine Talk With Rajat Parr
Rajat Parr has invested two decades in restaurant and wine service and oversight, wine education, and now wine making, to become one of the world's most influential Sommeliers. While juggling all these responsibilities and collecting the industry's highest honors, he remains abundantly outgoing and gracious. Clearly, he lives the quote of Mahatma Gandhi that adorns his email signature: "The best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others." Here are highlights from conversation he shared with me surrounding his passion for wine.
On how he got started with wine...
I was born and grew up in India, and went to hotel school. I always loved cooking, but there was not a cooking school in India at the time. So I went to hotel school, and then I was accepted and moved to New York to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I was there I joined the wine club, and I fell in love with wine. So my focus shifted to wine, and I started working, and moved to San Francisco and worked with Larry Stone at a restaurant called Rubicon. I started as a busboy and moved up to Sommelier with Larry as his assistant. Then I was Sommelier at Fifth Floor, and then Michael Mina, and opened around twenty restaurants. I was already making wine, so I did both from ’04 to 2012, and then I finally moved full-time to Santa Barbara.
So you have four different wine projects. I can see why you had get out of restaurant business. How do you manage all of them?
Ha ha! I don’t know. Yes, two estate projects and two negociant or purchased grape projects. There is Domaine de la Cote in Santa Rita Hills, and Seven Springs Vineyards in Oregon that are estate. Then we have Sandhi, and Maison L'Oree in Burgundy, small negociants. All of these things just happened very naturally and nothing was forced. We have great partners, and we work it out. We have fun doing it. We have a great time working with Seven Springs, an old vineyard, planted in the mid-eighties. It’s pretty great to work with an almost thirty-year old vineyard. Then Domain de la Cote is a new vineyard, planted in ’06. Pretty great to see the potential of the young vineyard. Hopefully it will be great in twenty or thirty years.
On Santa Barbara and the new California wine scene...
I always loved Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and I think you can grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pretty well in Santa Barbara. You can make wines which have good levels of high-acidity, very vibrant wines. Sonoma was another option, and Santa Cruz. They all are different. I just felt Santa Barbara was more my style. When Domaine de la Cote was planted, early on, I was quite astounded by the results from the vineyard, so I decided to go all in.
In Pursuit of Balance was supposed to be just a small gathering or tasting. Me and my friend Jasmine Hirsch, when she was just starting to work with her family vineyard, and I had just started Sandhi. And we said let’s do a tasting, get some like-minded people together. So we did a small tasting of twenty people in 2011. It was a big success. There were a lot of people interested in listening to what’s happening in California, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot, and that small tasting now has a pretty big following. There was a great article, one of the best articles written, by Anne Crable. Are you on Twitter? I put it on Twitter. One of the most informative articles I’ve seen.
What advice would you give to the wine drinking community, with so much good wine and new trends?
I think that the most important thing is to have an open mind, and to try different things. Sometimes people just always drink the same wines they drink, and stay in their comfort zone. I think it’s important to open your mind, try different things. Different wines with different foods, and see. The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing. That way you can really explore new things, try some fun wines, and learn more. The younger generation (is like this) for sure. The Millennials are very curious. Quite different than the Baby Boomers. They like the classics. Which, there is nothing wrong. But if you want to learn more, you must have an open mind.
Rajat was honored with the 2011 James Beard Award for Beverage for his book, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World's Top Wine Professionals. I asked how things have changed since it was published:
I think when we wrote the book, we didn’t really account for so many young sommeliers now. The core of the book is still really relevant. There are a lot of regions that have really developed in the past five years. Things are changing rapidly in the wine world. I think we will have to do a new edition to update all the new wines. Australia for example. California was really small at the time, and now there is so much more. I think the core story and core content are still really relevant. Definitely that. And I am working on a new book as well.
When he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional, I asked for his comments on a second Award:
The James Beard Award means a lot to me. It's a huge honor and an endorsement by the food and wine community. I feel humbled!
See notes from my tasting of Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi here.
Keep Tasting - For Wine Satisfaction
Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle's wine tower
I have regular conversations with people who have frustrations with finding wines they enjoy. Some even conclude that they do not really like wine! They are typically lighter wine drinkers, and have limited experience tasting different styles. I always ask if they have a favorite from the past, and what it was. If they have one, it becomes easy to recommend options. If not, then the answer is likely to try more wine.
At a recent tasting, I tried fourteen wines, seven each of whites and reds. While I would happily drink most of them, none were overly impressive to me, and I did not have a favorite. This is rare, but it was a small event, and when it does happen, the only course of action is to prepare for the next tasting.
If finding the right wine for you is a challenge, simply keep tasting. Take advantage of wine by the glass and sample pours when dining out, and make notes about your likes and dislikes. Ask advice from knowledgeable restaurant staff members, wine retailers, and friends. When you find a wine you like, buy a bottle of it, and a couple more from the same region and year for comparison.
There are too many good choices, literally thousands of wines, for you to not really love what you are drinking. But with this volume, the overwhelming majority of wines are not going to be something you love, so press on. Experiment often, and you will discover wines that you find to be satisfying.
Six Months Of Van The Wine Man
It has been a busy six months since I started Van The Wine Man, with wine and restaurant service experiences from coast to coast. Thank you for reading and connecting with me along the way, whether online or in-person. If this is the first time you have visited my blog, or if you want to look back with me, here are my most-popular posts to date:
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel Of DB Brasserie
Best Of New York City Wine Service And Dining
Here are the standouts from my recent visit to New York.
21 Club Steak Tartare and Gin
Wine
- Bergadano Barolo Sarmassa 2007 at Elio's - A smooth and sweet Barolo to accompany a rich veal dish.
- E. Guigal Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007 at Peter Luger - On the lighter side, but accompanied the steak well.
- Claudia Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Dry Red Wine 2003 - Typically good Italian table wine in a Little Italy restaurant.
- Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011 at Les Halles Downtown
- Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose at Buddakan
Service
- The Carlyle - See my review
- Bergdorf Goodman Bar - While the restaurant was booked, with even a wait for the bar, the busy bartender quickly knew just the martini I was after.
- Ritz Carlton Battery Park Bar - Bar service at night was good, but Victor took note of me mid-morning. I was looking for the coffee service, which had been taken down, and a light snack for the road. He promptly returned with a large coffee and a box of baked goods, on the house!
- Peter Luger - Thorough service from seven people over the course of an hour.
- Les Halles Downtown - Excellent service from one waiter over the course of an hour.
"Side" pasta at Elio's
Dining
- Elio's - A serious old school Italian eatery served up a fine prosciutto and gorgonzola-stuffed veal chop, but I could not stop eating the bowl of al dente angel hair with garlic and parmesan.
- 21 Club - The classic "Speakeasy" Steak Tartare, matched by perfectly round, thin, and crisp Chicken Paillard with arugula.
- Peter Luger Steak House - Steak for two, creamed spinach, extra thick bacon, and extra-extra Peter Luger attitude.
- Les Halles Downtown - See my review
- Katz's Delicatessen - Pastrami, period.
Best Cocktail
Brooklyn Gin Martini with Lemon Peel at Bergdorf Goodman Bar
NYC Wine And Dining - Les Halles Downtown
Mignon de Porc Maison
Brasserie Les Halles, with two locations in Manhattan, boasts much history and hype. The juice blend that became V-8 was originated in the building that houses the Park Avenue location. Anthony Bourdain was formerly the executive chef there, and features the restaurant frequently in two cookbooks, Kitchen Confidential and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook. I recently visited the downtown location on a Friday night.
After a late night arrival near the Financial Distrct, Les Halles Downtown was a casual scene where it was easy to get a table. The main room was dark and seductive, with several couples and groups huddled at tables or along the fabulous bar. The bar stretches nearly the full length of the restaurant on one side, with shelves full of wine lining the back wall on either side of a large clock. Exotic red wood panels break up the golden yellow painted walls, with posters and prints positioned throughout. It is an authentic setting, one you feel you would find in Paris, with dining to match.
I started with Salade d’Auvergne, with arugula, bleu d’Auvergne, roasted walnuts and apples. Dinner included Mignon de Porc “Maison”, a pork tenderloin, with garlic confit and mashed potatoes, and classic Coq au Vin, with plentiful bacon and mushrooms. For beverages, I tasted the Spiced Mojito, made with lemongrass jalapeño syrup, and muddled mint, topped off with ginger beer, and a Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011. The wine, an entry-level Burgundy, was earthy and dry, with tart berries and good length that paired well with the flavors of the entrees. The wine list was not large, but had good variety among mostly French selections, all attractively priced. Upon another visit, I plan to have one of the prime steaks, billed as "American Beef, French Style".
Salade d'Auvergne
It could have been that I had one of the few tables being served at the end of the night, but service was pleasant and attentive from a primary waiter, who was assisted only for food delivery. While French service style may have a reputation for stiffness and air of superiority, I found myself feeling well-cared for throughout the experience, and would have gladly lingered for a coffee had time permitted.
Les Halles Downtown delivered a thoroughly satisfying, and reasonably-priced, dining experience, and took me even further out of town than I was.
Brasserie Les Halles on Park Avenue - 411 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10016
Brasserie Les Halles Downtown - 15 John Street, New York, New York 10038
Craig Collins, MS On Austin And Professional Service
I met up with Master Sommelier Craig Collins as he took a breath from a schedule that appears overwhelming to a mere mortal. In the process of juggling regular duties as Beverage Director for ELM Restaurant Group's three existing restaurants, he came from staff training for Italic, the new Italian concept whose opening was only two weeks away. These alongside his two-week-old activities as a new father, and all taking place during the excessive busyness of SXSW. Without his head spinning, he took time to drink a beer and share some of his experiences and philosophies on Easy Tiger's hopping deck.
from italy to austin
Craig shared how he fell in love with wine while studying abroad during college in Tuscany, where he became enamored especially with Italian wines. It was also where he solidified his friendship with Chef Andrew Curren, now owner of ELM. Italy's food and wine culture made a deep impression on him. "Family and food are the most important things there, and family is not just family, but also friends, with closeness and togetherness. I think that's great." The roommates determined to follow their passions of wine and cooking, and often discussed opening a restaurant, with Craig front of house, and Andrew in the back. But soon finding himself working for an Italian-specialized wine importer in Austin, Collins thought he was set. "I had never worked in a restaurant. I thought I was an importer for life."
renowned for service
"Ten years ago, there were no Sommeliers in Austin, and now there are fifteen to twenty beverage-focused programs," he said. Austin is growing and changing, and part of this scenario is an acclaimed, chef-owner and beverage-driven restaurant service culture. Craig is one of a few original Austin Sommeliers that studied together and have remained instrumental in establishing the improvement and expansion. The results include a broader range of fine dining establishments, an emphasis on beverages, and attraction of national attention. Advancement and changes have also come for Collins. A year after he passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, the documentary SOMM contributed to Sommelier becoming a mainstream and highly-sought position, particularly in a growth market like Austin, further increasing the local talent pool. Along the way, Curren convinced his old friend to join ELM to open a French themed restaurant, ARRO.
Four restaurants later, with more in the works, ELM as well as Austin is booming. Collins and others have ensured that careful attention is directed toward developing the next generation to carry on highest levels of service. He is cautious, though, about the flavor of hype given his profession. "I don’t want to bring back the pretension to the position, or for it to sound like it is a rock star life. Everyone knows now the work it takes to become a Master, but the work after you pass? It’s more. Instead of focusing on a singular goal, you have many focuses, and it's harder. People have expectations." To be sure to keep up with expectations, he maintains an impressive standard for communication. "I try to respond in twelve hours, not twenty-four. That is the expectation I set for myself." I can attest. Unknowingly, I emailed Collins about meeting on the day his son was being born. Even then, he replied by the next morning.
As Craig described preparing meals and stocking his refrigerator for his wife while she gets used to life with their baby, (a menu of foods that she can eat one-handed) it was clear that delivering satisfying service is his way of life. Roles as family man, restaurant group manager, and industry leader do not prevent him from making even random strangers like me to feel well cared for. Summing up how he manages a stacked and constantly changing schedule so completely and pleasantly, he said. "That is professional service."
Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
Dave Danhi has compiled a storied career as an award winning chef of renowned restaurants, including Roxbury Supper Club and Water Grill in Los Angeles. More recently, he created one of the most popular food trucks in Los Angleles, The Grilled Cheese Truck, and built his vision into a one-hundred-million-dollar IPO. I had a conversation about what is next for Dave over wine before his SouthBites presentation at SXSW Interactive.
u.s. Veterans and Military Bases
The Grilled Cheese Truck franchise plan is for the first one-hundred trucks to be run by veterans. Retired General Wesley Clark is signed on to promote the program and recruit veterans. Management of a team, maintenance of a truck, all the operations involved in a restaurant, scheduling of locations, and complying with legal requirements all come into play on a daily basis for a food trucker. Dave feels that the training, skill set, and mentality of qualified military personnel make for a model food truck franchisee. Locations are expected to be easily accessible for military bases, with airports to follow.
Upscale Grilled cheese, With Wine!
In the future, Dave plans for brick and mortar, sit down versions of the Grilled Cheese franchise, which he expects to become hubs of their communities. You might order your custom grilled cheese, then receive assistance with the best wine pairing while you wait for it to be made. A "between fast and fast casual" atmosphere will keep service simple and brisk, while patrons will feel comfortable hanging out or watching big screen televisions. Some screens will feature dedicated live feeds of social interaction, where photos and conversations are shared in real time. Gourmet food and wine in a cool, casual setting.
Who would have thought that a simplest staple like the grilled cheese sandwich could grow from a single food truck into a multi-faceted national brand, complete with a cause. Dave Danhi saw it, and appears up to the task of making it happen. I look forward to, say, a Plain and Simple Melt of sharp cheddar...with Barolo!
Don't Run Out Of Wine - Simple Service
You put time and effort into deciphering a wine list, find the bottle that excites you, wait with anticipation for an extended time, and the server finally reports that the restaurant is out of it. Matthew Kaner names this scenario as a motivator for the "no wine list" concept of Bar Covell. Few occurrences have the ability to crash and burn a dining experience faster and more decisively.
A restaurant verifying available wines before each dining window should be an obvious and increasingly easy task. Wines without sufficient number can be removed from the list, or at the very least the wait staff will be prepared in advance for selections with limited quantities. Wines that do run out can be crossed off the list (or board) to notify staff and patrons, and manage expectations.
Why would management take a chance that you will not order that wine? Simple, consistent inventory management and adjustments, along with courteous communication, will insure the restaurant always has your wine satisfaction in mind.