Republique LA - Just A Taste
Republique French bistro in Los Angeles is highly-acclaimed, and with "best of" awards in multiple categories after only a year, I was excited to visit. A late lunch on a Monday provided an uncrowded scene inside what appears to be a French market. The open, two-story atrium offers views into several kitchen and prep areas full of constant activity. Be sure to check out their special event spaces, particularly the Left Bank Wine Room.
The walk-up counter to order lunch runs alongside the bakery, which displayed dozens of beautifully arranged goods. I later enjoyed a selection of desserts, including Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake and Matcha Green Tea Bundt Cake with Yuzu Glaze, which delivered the strong flavors of their descriptive names. My favorite item from Republique, though, was the Hazelnut Paris Brest, a sliced pastry with creamy hazelnut frosting filling, and fresh chopped hazelnuts resting on the chocolate-iced top. It was stunningly delicious.
The menus change daily, with specials in most categories. The iced beverage offered that day was Blood Orange Lemonade, which had nicely balanced flavors and milder sweetness. For lunch, I had the so-called Regular Breakfast, complete with bacon steak, a slightly sweet, pleasantly tender, quarter-inch thick cut of...bacon!
I had only a glass of the featured French white wine, served in a Schott Zwiesel glass. That I was so impressed by Republique, from a lightly-serviced lunch, and without experiencing the wine program of sommelier Taylor Parsons, is saying something. I am eager to return for the full meal deal.
Before You Travel, Plan To Connect
If you have made efforts to seek out wine and dining experiences for an upcoming trip, you may also have made observations about events and people that interest you. Wine tasting events are on the rise, and the makers and purveyors of the wines are more active socially. Why not find if there is an extraordinary opportunity available during your travel?
find the wine calendar
Events are easy. Simply executing a search for "wine events (city of travel)" will return pages of links to sort through, but many will be in the past or repeated. A better tactic is to search local media, wine, and restaurant sites, some of which will have event calendars or additional resources. Some examples:
the wine celebrity challenge
A flexible schedule and patience are required, but reaching out to sommeliers, winemakers, and other wine celebrities may yield thrilling results. If you are really excited to visit a particular winery or restaurant, you really cannot go wrong by expressing your anticipation, and asking politely for an audience with the proprietor, chef, or somm. Most sites have contact information for influential members of the team. Even if there is only an email address to "info@...", give it a try. The worst that will happen is that your request will be declined by a staff member, but they should make note of your request and take good care of you when you visit. It is more likely you will receive your response directly from the source. Even if the person is not available for a lengthy conversation, he or she may stop by to say hello, and make sure that the staff knows to give you attention. Maybe you will receive a special treat from the kitchen, a personal tour of the winery, or an opportunity to taste reserve wines. And the person may available for more.
Of course, you can succeed without going all-in in this manner. Narrow to just a few desired wine and restaurant targets, and make your moves. One caution: Make it clear you are paying your own way, and not seeking a freebie. You will probably be surprised, and sure to be pleased, by the responses. Ask, and you may receive, but you will surely enjoy a better experience.
What has been your experience with wine and dining celebrities?
Wine By The Glass - Fast And Affordable Discovery
The expanding number of quality wines should mean you always drink the right wine for you. But you also enjoy exploring new wines, leading to hits and misses, and eventually the supply of any particular wine runs out. How do you discover new favorites without spending excessively on bottles of wine you don't like?
Fortunately, there are shortcuts to greater exploration at lesser costs. When dining out, more restaurants are offering tasting flights, made up of several small pours of wine, usually with a theme based on grape or style. Predetermined flights, if organized by a knowledgeable wine professional, are the fastest ways to try a broad variety of wines. Simply pick your theme and go. However, the wines offered are often dramatically diverse, which may or may not be helpful to your tasting strategy.
With some forethought, ordering wines by the glass is an easy way to produce your own personal mini-tasting. You'll be way ahead if you walk into the restaurant with an idea of the kind of wines you want, and there is a good chance that the wine list is available online for your perusal in advance. You can start off by always asking for "just a taste" of a couple of the wines, which may be all that you need to form strong opinions. You will find some servers that are surprisingly generous. Encourage everyone to order a different glass, switching frequently if there are additional rounds. If you are comfortable, further increase the sample size by sharing sips of different wines with others in your party. Between initial tastes, and a couple of glasses each, you will have quickly experienced a thorough tasting.
Comparing several wines side by side in a relatively short time frame will help you make confident decisions. One of the wines was the clear standout. Another complimented your seafood dish nicely. Your companion liked the French wine, which surprised you. If you notice you always prefer the first wine of the tasting, try repeating the combination of wines on another occasion, but reverse the order. This information leads to savings when it is time to buy wine by the bottle. Finer details are promptly forgotten, so save them for later by making brief notes of your significant observations.
You will pay higher than bottle price for wines by the glass. But if your goal is affordable volume tasting for ease of future decision-making, it is a worthwhile investment on the path to drinking what you like.
Las Vegas Wine, Service, and Dining Winners
Wine bar lineup at Due Forni
After researching dozens of restaurants and trying thirteen, here are my top Vegas recommendations.
Wine
- Giordanino Teresio Colline Saluzzesi Saluces Nebbiolo 2006 at Due Forni Pizza and Wine - Dry and leathery, with red berries and hints of mint. A nice surprise by the glass. A select list of predominantly Italian varietals to compliment the menu.
- Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010 at db Brasserie - Click for my reviews
- Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2009 at Chada Thai and Wine - Dry minerals with grapefruit largesse and more citrus. Sweet on its own but a perfect match with spicy Thai. A broad list beginning with Rieslings, but encompassing the world of wine at great prices.
- Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV at db Brasserie
- Fabricca di San Martino Arcipressi 2012 at Chada Thai and Wine - A solid drink-now Tuscan blend, juicy with a medium finish.
Service
- db Brasserie - A thoroughly satisfying experience, from bar to table, led by Head Sommelier Devin Zendel. See my review here.
- Bouchon Bistro - Thomas Keller's spot on the strip. They gladly seated my party fifteen minutes before lunch closed, and gave us full attention until well after. Also, the head server offered me coffee to go, a personal difference maker in service.
- Due Forni Pizza and Wine - West toward Red Rock Canyon, I was thrilled by the small but diverse Italian wine list and my server's constant attention. Management here clearly has serious Italian wine fans in mind.
- Chada Thai and Wine - Also off the path, small and easy to miss, but don't! Outstanding food with the best value wine list in Vegas awaits. Sommelier and chef Bank Atcharawan has built a wine and food experience around his love for Riesling, but the entire list is of high-quality picks and best-value prices. Servers on Thanksgiving were attentive and helpful with food and wine menus, and happy to secure us a cab.
- Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Not a destination, but if spending time at Mandalay Bay, a go-to option, 24/7. I received pleasant and fast service during visits at all times of the day, whether picking up coffee, breakfast at the bar, or table service.
Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro
Food
- Steak Frites at db Brasserie - Perfectly cooked flat iron, and a bargain on the Prix Fixe menu. Click for my review.
- Spicy Herbs Spring Rolls at Chada Thai and Wine - Fresh and crisp, with ginger, lime, mint, and spicy for sure.
- Duck Panang at Chada Thai and Wine - Crispy duck with lime and a delicious spicy Panang sauce.
- Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro - Gourmet corned beef hash with eggs and toast.
- NY Style Pastrami at Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Thick cut and tender with a spicy mustard. I didn't miss cheese at all.
Best cocktail
French 75 at Bouchon Bistro
The best in wine and service are often found in the same place, and dining under the bright lights of Vegas is no exception. It was clear which restaurants give priority to their wine program, and to service and training.
Where are your favorite places to wine and dine in Las Vegas?
Before You Travel, Where's The Wine?
As a systematic consumer, I do excessive amounts of research to ensure that my experiences are satisfying. This is especially the case before traveling, and is work I consider critical to happiness and well worth the effort. Here are my best practices for uncovering the outstanding before you hit the road.
Search best of...
Most cities have a dominant magazine and entertainment newspaper, both of which publish annual Best Of lists, with fairly thorough and specific dining and drinking reviews. Also scan newspaper food and wine sections and national publications like Food and Wine or Travel and Leisure that focus on outstanding experiences. Examine these, giving considerable attention to the publications' choices, and less to the readers' votes. Look for your personal keywords. (Mine are Fine Dining, Sommeliers, Wine, Service, and Servers) When you find an interesting target, go to the web site, give it a once over, and save it in a list of destinations for that city if it passes the eye test.
The next search is for local, high-traffic blogs about food and wine in the city. On blogs by respectable writers, you are likely to find more choices, but this is primarily for in-depth information, and confirmation of your interest in your initial list of options. You will also learn of news and events that you may want to take into consideration for your travel itinerary.
Social-driven sites like Urban Spoon, Eater, Yelp, and Trip Advisor can deliver additional layers of confirmation. This is chiefly visual, through the volumes of non-staged photographs posted by diners. Low ratings on these sites are a red flag for me, leading to further scrutiny of a potential choice, while high ratings and extreme comments are taken with a grain of salt.
Narrow the field
Once you compile a satisfactory list of alternatives, make closer inspections of the chosen few. Which ones have a version of your favorite dish, an acclaimed wine list, or an intriguing new adventure? Does the wine list have a good selection with descriptions and years, not to mention reasonable prices? View the "about" and staff pages, looking for indications that the restaurant caters to your style and preferences. Contemplate the area surrounding the establishment, it's convenience to your location, dress, (yes, still) and hours of operation.
If you're involving others in the dining decisions, now is the time to share the short list with your traveling companions. I provide a list of links with brief notes about my findings when asking for opinions.
Even if you have made your decisions by now, go ahead and look at social media. Many restaurants, chefs, and sommeliers are active socially, and eager to connect and share. There are often valuable pieces of information, such as limited offers or special events, that are delivered exclusively via social.
take note
So you have started early, made reservations for potentially great dining, and built up your anticipation. Always do a last-minute review for breaking news or changes at the restaurants. It is disappointing to realize too late that the entree you were excited to try went out with last season's menu, that the restaurant is closed for vacation, or closed. While traveling, make notes about your meals, beverages, and service, however brief. You will begin to notice your own trends, your personal Big Wine and Food Data, and also the correlation between good wine and excellent service.
Pre-travel research takes time, but pays off with fulfilling wining and dining. Wherever your destination, delve into the wealth of information that is readily available, and make every meal an enjoyable experience.
The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel of DB Brasserie
Devin Zendel is an Advanced Sommelier and Head Sommelier at db Brasserie in Las Vegas. For the past fifteen years, he has served at acclaimed Vegas restaurants including Wolfgang Puck, Carnevino, and Eiffel Tower Restaurant. Before a recent dinner, he shared some of his experiences with wine, and insightful comments about the demanding lifestyle required to succeed as a top wine professional in an extremely competitive city.
Devin Zendel pours "Daniel" Brut at db Brasserie
What drew you to wine and led to wine as a career?
"My mother and aunt drank wine daily while I was growing up. I was young, drinking terrible beer, then I had a Napa Sauv Blanc that was an eye-opening experience for me. I was working at Puck as a server, and became fascinated with the world of wine. You learn how big wine is, and that it is never ending."
"I get to drink wine all the time, and business travel became a pleasure. I can design a floor plan, or I can taste five Burgundies."
What is it like working for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas?
"Previously I had been a floor Somm. db Brasserie is a chance for the total package. There is an old school mentality here. The most important thing is still food service and the total guest experience. The staff is inspired, impassioned. It stands out among the mostly union restaurants on the Strip."
"Coaching the staff on by the glass knowledge is critical. We make sure they taste any new wines, give them technical sheets so that they know all the wines, and role play with wine presentation. Food as well. We are big on their continuing education, and I plan for full, around the world training as the restaurant and staff grow."
"Vegas is very competitive, with lots of movement among somms. A friend of mine said one year in Vegas is like three years in (another large city). But it's nice, too. There are lots of events and people to meet. You don't want to leave the events, even though it's late and you're going to pay for it early in the morning, because there are so many more people to meet."
"It's a tough profession to get started in. You kind of have to be the guy in the corner with the "Will Work for Wine" sign. It's different now. The day of the old stuffy sommelier in a tuxedo, with only a couple of guys doing it, is over. Even before the documentary, it was changing, with the somms being the coolest people in the restaurant. Since the documentary, the Court says applications are up forty-percent in the last two years. Now, if you're not established, you have even more competition. No one will pay you at the start, and it's hard to break into. Without Certified or Advanced credentials, some jobs won't even interview you. It's a necessity."
How is the quest for Master Sommelier going?
"I've passed theory, which is good, because that is all textbooks and studying, and no life. They said I was close on service last time. Service isn't really about service. It's about thoughtlessly, flawlessly, executing perfect service. There's cutting the foil perfectly, pouring the wine perfectly, but it's not about that. All of that just happens. In my last service exam, they asked me about (a particular) Barbaresco. But it's not a Barbaresco, it's a Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba. Then they asked if (winery) makes any other wines. All of this conversation was going on while I was doing the other things. And I was on the clock. It's about theory. MS is a way of life, and you don't pass unless you live it. We're the weirdoes sneaking champagne in a plastic bottle into a movie. It's always about the wine you're drinking."
"It's taxing. You are always on when you're on the floor. I love working in the restaurant, interacting with tables, but I can see as you get older wanting to get off the floor. It's hard labor. I've had to ice my back, or wonder why my elbow is sore. There are financial considerations, perks and other opportunities once you become a Master. You can be an author, a speaker, a teacher. I think about when I was just getting started, in a big room full of people working on Certified. Once you're a Master you still have to earn teaching privileges in the Court. But to be the one teaching the room full of candidates, that sounds pretty amazing."
Read about my excellent wine and service experience with Devin and db Brasserie here.
db Brasserie, Las Vegas - Wine and Service Experience
The first page of the wine list at db Brasserie
db Brasserie, the latest concept from French American icon Daniel Boulud, located in the Venetian, Las Vegas, and surrounded by brands from his celebrity chef contemporaries, still finds ways to stand out among wine and service experiences.
My visit occurred the day before Thanksgiving, with heavy activity before the holiday, and amidst the early Black Friday shopping frenzy. Service began long before my meal, as I happened by the restaurant several hours before my reservation. I requested a particular style of booth, which was accommodated promptly. I spent time at the bar during the daily happy hour, where several wines, beers, and craft cocktails were promoted. The green water glasses call attention to the decor, which are further highlighted by touches of green in the various food presentations. The bar is smaller, but gives the feeling of being larger than it is. I was drawn to the display of glassware by Stolzle, and the lineup of hand-labled cocktail ingredients. Large screen televisions are above the bar, and visible throughout many parts of the restaurant. I enjoyed a Lucien Albrecht Cremant de-Alsace Brute Blanc De Blancs NV, which was crispy and refreshing with apple and citrus.
Seating was immediate, in the requested booth with a full view of the restaurant. The lead server made introductions and delivered food and wine menus within seconds. Shortly thereafter, Head Sommelier Devin Zendel greeted the table with Champagne flutes, and announced, "I am going to pour you something." He returned with a bottle of Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV, and filled the glasses around the table. The Daniel, specifically chosen by the restaurant group, was delicious, with citrus and striking bread dough flavors. I savored the brut while discussing the menu and wine options. The wine list offers an extensive selection of French alongside American bottles, with a broad price range. I asked for Devin's recommendations, hoping to find a new French favorite. He pointed out a couple of wines based on our desired styles, including the Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010. He spoke of the wine's predominant mourvedre, and how Tempier was the leading producer of wines from this grape and the Bandol appellation. He opened, checked, and decanted the wine at a station within eyesight before presenting it to the table. It was delightfully elegant and long-lasting. Still young and a full of potential, it had leather and floral aromas with dark berries. It also paired nicely with the dinner entrees.
The meal began with puffy Gouda bread treats, compliments of the chef. The Tunisian Lamb came as two chops, with lamb sausage, and lemony spinach. The Yankee, one of three signature DB NY Burgers offered, was impressive even with the hype. Coq Au Vin from the Prix Fixe menu was tender, in a very red wine preparation with mushrooms and hints of bacon. The star, though, of db Brasserie and my entire Las Vegas dining tour, was the Steak Frites, also from the Prix Fixe menu. A generously cut flat iron steak, with a spicy-seasoned crust, cooked to the perfect medium rare temperature. It was one of the top steaks in my considerable beefeating history. To finish the meal, the table shared excellent desserts, a citrusy Panna Cotta, and Black and White Fondant, a flourless chocolate cake with white chocolate ganache and vanilla gelato.
Overall service was fast acting, efficient, and friendly. Almost nothing could be criticized, extremely rare for me at a full dining event. The worst I can say is that I poured the wine once. With the Head Sommelier taking the lead at tableside, I felt completely cared for, and somewhat special. Devin knew just where to go in style and price for wine selection. I was glad to see contemporary, yet still appropriate, glassware in play, and enjoyed the sight of the wine being opened and prepared just so at a dedicated area separate from the table. Activity by the team of servers was understated, subtly consistent and thorough, without making too big a show of things or interrupting by their presence. All requests in seating and food preparation were satisfied, and knowledgeable answers to all questions were provided. In the bar, five bartenders and servers buzzed about, displaying comfortable teamwork and communication. It was a pleasant, smooth running operation.
db Brasserie, open only seven months in ultra-competitive Las Vegas, was a highlight of my experiences, and appears on its way to taking the lead in Vegas wine and fine dining.
Read my conversation with Head Sommelier Devin Zendel here.
SOMM - The Addictively Emotional Wine Film
I originally saw the documentary film SOMM at a screening before it gained widespread distribution and fame, and was immediately thirsty to see it again. The film follows four Sommeliers as they strive for the ultimate prize of the wine trade, the designation of Master Sommelier. An escalating roller coaster ride of emotion accompanies the narrative of their struggles for greatness.
Shattering Wine Glasses
Subtle tensions progressively mount for each of the main characters as the story is told. These guys may have been born with senses of taste beyond what is normal, but equally impressive is their passionate determination to earn the elusive Master diploma. You are taken into private settings to witness the full range of sentiments, from happiness to despair. The depth of feeling one can associate with these men as they prepare for the biggest event of their lives is vivid. Especially is this so during the intensive scenes surrounding the MS exam, which maintains a ninety-percent failure rate. The dedication to the craft and devotion to becoming authorities of wine and service exhibited by the candidates is admirable.
"Fresh Cut Garden Hose"
Telling unique stories of individual wines is a primary responsibility for a Sommelier, but developing accurate descriptions can be challenging. And entertaining. You can learn a tremendous amount about wine tasting by observing the Somms as they prepare for the test. But this is not a stuffy or tiresome educational documentary. Absorbing and humorous storytelling further illustrates the scope of near obsession required to advance, and how this affects the candidates, their families, and friends. Festive and touching moments that emerge from following a closely knit group of guys are interwoven throughout the film. Their endearing qualities pleasantly balance and soften the profound anxiety that is apparent.
Somms as Stars
The vision of a stiff, stodgy, Sommelier of old is dead, driven to the grave in part by SOMM. A younger, enthusiastic, and personable Sommelier is on the scene, more focused on hands-on service and training than glowering in a corner. Undoubtedly, the film has contributed to the dramatic increase in applications received by the Court of Master Sommeliers. While very few of the new breed will achieve Master, or even Advanced status, the positive attention and broadened pool of talent is bound to improve overall wine and restaurant service. Director Jason Wise has given a gift to wine lovers and fine diners beyond his captivating wine documentary.
SOMM will make you laugh, cheer, and possibly bring a tear to your eye. You will feel deep sympathy for the cast, even as you imagine that they must be insane. If you are into wine at all, you will watch Somm again and again. Grab a favorite bottle, and push play.
Have you seen SOMM? What is your favorite scene?
Download SOMM or Buy on DVD
White Sand Weekend - Henderson Park Inn, Destin
Henderson Park Inn of Destin, Florida, delivered on a reputation as one of the best and most romantic beach destinations in the United States. Adults-only and steps away from a private white sand beach and blue ocean, it felt far removed from the bustling communities nearby.
My wife's white sand crab sculpture
Overall service at the Inn was pleasant. Reservations for a holiday (Labor Day) weekend were challenging to arrange, but after several conversations that included ongoing reassurances, we were accommodated as requested. An airport car service employed by the Inn was efficient. Upon our late evening arrival, we were greeted by a staff member, who did not flinch to help with our luggage. The front desk was friendlier, describing the amenities and securing for us a dinner table at the on-sight Beach Walk Cafe, even though it was after restaurant hours. A variety of front desk staffers maintained enthusiastic and eager service throughout our three-night stay.
Smoked Tomato Soup
A daily breakfast buffet and omelette bar were cleanly executed, with entertaining interaction with the staff behind the bar. Table service, cared for by the same staff members, was fast and frequent, never allowing the coffee to cool. Service at a daily happy hour in the tiki bar on the deck was similarly quick and attentive. It could be improved by additional staff, with only one bartender for up to twenty patrons at a time in a confined space.
The service during dinner, the only full-service hours of the day, was passable on all three nights, with inconsistent attention, questionable knowledge of what was available, and one dramatic mid-meal delay of over an hour. The Manager was helpful in every instance, personally seeing to our eventual satisfaction. There was a very well-stocked bar, although it was available only during dinner hours. The wine list included a nice variety of styles and prices to accompany the broad menu, the highlight of which was the smoked tomato soup, poured over diced shrimp. I tried several entrees, including fresh seafoods, and all were well presented and flavorful. Based on the service, I would not seek out the Cafe independent of a stay at the Inn. However, it was extremely convenient to have it literally next door to our room, and I had no desires to explore dining options elsewhere.
I was looking for an upscale, near all-inclusive beach retreat in Destin. Relaxing and somehow secluded, Henderson Park Inn is a spot worthy of consideration for such a getaway.
It's All About The Experience - Paul Botamer of Fearing's
As an element of my exploration of wine and restaurant service, I remain on the lookout for conversations with wine celebrities, both in and outside of the industry. To follow up on my review of Fearing's, here is my conversation with Wine Director and Advanced Sommelier Paul Botamer.
Paul Botamer is full of wit and wine wisdom to embellish your experience at Fearing’s Restaurant, Dallas. When I found him in the Rattlesnake Bar, I asked, “Are you Paul?” With a look of concern, he replied, “It depends how much money I owe you,” before cracking a grin. Following introductions, he offered comments on his philosophy of wine service.
Regarding how he got his start in wine service: Paul was a history major when he had opportunity work at a fine dining restaurant. At age twenty-two, while keeping himself fit to play college basketball, he had not even had a drink. The restaurant employed several sommeliers, and he was quickly exposed to wine's historical and social relevance. He realized wine service was what he wanted pursue. “I saw that I can never get bored, and the more you know about wine, you realize how much you don’t know.”
On emotional connections made with wine: “Wine is a social experience. If you have a bottle of wine in a picnic basket with the right young lady, it doesn’t matter if it’s a four-dollar bottle of Riesling. You will remember that wine.” Paul spoke of the social significance of wine, and how the sight of a wine label that is connected to a special experience, or simply hearing the wine's name, remains impactful throughout one's life.
On working with celebrity chef Dean Fearing: "Dean gets everyone on the staff involved." He spoke about how easy it becomes to get excited about the resulting menu. “Imagine what it’s like for a young staff member, just out of culinary school, and Dean Fearing asks, “”What do you think?””
Criteria for appearing on the wine list at Fearing's: “Everything on the list should be something I am excited for you try. There are so many great wines out there, if I’m not excited about it, you shouldn’t be trying it. There’s just not any sense in that.”
On coaching the staff on wine and food parings: Paul encourages passionate recommendations. “There are over four-hundred wines here, and for anything someone orders probably forty wines will pair with it. I tell (the staff) to find the wines you are most excited about, your passion will show, and (the diners) will see how excited you are, then they get excited.”
Paul later escorted my teenage daughter to me, and commented about wine with his daughter. “When we make dinner at home, I give my daughter, who is sixteen, just a little sip, so she knows there’s nothing mysterious going on.” I heartily agree with positioning wine as educational and appreciable rather than reserved for mindless guzzling and secrecy.
Summing up what to expect at Fearing's, Paul stated, “Dean provides people with a dining experience. Our customers can afford whatever they want, and what they really want is that experience.”
Fearing's Restaurant, Dallas - Wine and Service Experience
The opening page of the wine list at Fearing's
Service is the factor that makes a restaurant experience stand out, for better or worse. With so many good choices of what and where to eat available, how you are made to feel throughout the dining event carries almost equal influence on your satisfaction as the meal itself. I will write about excellent service received around wine and fine dining events, beginning with Fearing's Restaurant in Dallas.
I was greeted promptly by my lead waiter, and I described my plans to have Dean's renowned Tortilla Soup and several wines by the glass. I expressed a desire to try Texas wines, and the Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet was suggested. Before I even considered asking, he offered to bring me a taste. The bottle was presented, and a generous taste was poured into the large Riedel glass. My waiter conversed about the wine while I finished the taste, which lasted several sips, before pouring the full glass. He talked further about Texas wines, explaining that more and more are being produced. "Not at the level of California," he said, "but quality." The dark, spicy, and leathery Inwood Estates blend was just what I had hoped for, and complimented the tortilla soup nicely.
I was thinking about a lighter wine to follow the blend, and asked my waiter what he would try. He mentioned a Pinot Noir, paused briefly, then said, "Let me check in the wine cellar and see if we have anything open." I was intrigued. He returned with a new bottle of Pinot Noir and a previously opened bottle of Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet, 40th Anniversary 2012, both of which he poured "tastes" of in appropriate glasses. Then I was excited.
He explained that the Caymus had been open for two days, but that it was still good, and he was right. I noted that only the cork was used to close the bottle, no vacuum or synthetic plug, and that it had been climate controlled. After I was visibly impressed by the initial swallow, he emptied the remainder of the bottle in my glass, what I describe as a full pour-plus. He said, "Often people order wine and don’t finish it, so we save it but can’t drink it ourselves. So, we give it to you." The wine still had a lot going on, and was velvety, inky, and vibrant. This was a quality wine that had received skillful preservation.
Next, it was time to taste the Elizabeth Rose Pinot Noir. It was lighter, as I had requested earlier, and refreshing with a subtle earthiness. This was a screw-top bottle, which I was impressed to see as a featured wine. I asked my waiter how he liked working with the huge selection of wines at Fearing's. He enthusiastically described how he gets to taste all the wines, "new ones, too", and how it was critical that he know the wines so that he could properly describe and recommend them.
Afterward, I retired to the lounge area, and Wine Director Paul Botamer, whom I met earlier, arrived with a bottle of Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Gran Reserva 1983 dessert wine. Paul poured me a glass and told the story of the wine's thirty years of barrel aging. The wine was a delicious treat of dense smoke and chocolate.
Overall service at Fearing's was outstanding. Four servers worked seamlessly to care for me, I enjoyed constant attention early, and then was allowed to enjoy the wines. I never had to look for a server, and all were conversational and knowledgeable. Their collective demeanor as they fluidly cared for a variety of patrons and party sizes put me at ease. I took note of reactions from other tables, and all appeared similarly satisfied. It felt superbly balanced.
The wine service was exciting to experience, and the standout aspects of the wine program were many. The glassware, and the generosity of pours into them. The presentation of bottles, even for wines by the glass. The openness about the philosophy behind the wine program, from staff training to handling leftover wine. Most of all, there was an eager willingness to satisfy my desired wine exploration. It was evident that Fearing's expects to deliver a memorable and satisfying wine journey.
Welcome to My Wine Blog
Welcome to a blog about wine and restaurant service. There is a vast and growing variety of wine available for your discovery and enjoyment, regardless of your palate or lifestyle, and whether you drink it every day or hardly ever. When you dine out, service is second only to food in making the event satisfying, and expectations of restaurant hospitality should be higher. I will build on these premises, and share tasting notes, conversations, and examples of excellence from personal wine and dining experiences.
After several years of interaction with Van The Wine Man on Twitter, I am looking forward to more substantial conversations here, and hope to provide insights and resources that contribute your own wine drinking and fine dining pleasures. Please connect with me, and add your comments, suggestions, and questions.
Who's thirsty?