Van Webb 6/2/15 Van Webb 6/2/15

Mr. B's Bistro, New Orleans - Serious Hospitality

While researching the best local Creole restaurants in the French Quarter, Mr. B's Bistro was recommended by my friend Johnny, and again by Ray at the concierge desk at The Roosevelt. I visited on a holiday Monday night, when a reservation would have been a wise choice. My party sat at one of the few remaining tables, in a high-traffic area with a full view of the mostly-open kitchen.

The foods I tasted were excellent. Bacon Wrapped Shrimp and Grits was the standout for me, with large shrimp tightly wrapped in pecan bacon, on creamy, not-too-consistent grits with the savory and sweetness balanced nicely. Mr. B's Barbecued Shrimp, the specific dish that had been raved about, was an adventure. The large gulf shrimp were served New Orleans style, complete in their shells, with a peppery, brothy sauce and French Bread. The cut of beef in the Truffle Butter Filet Mignon was flavorful and tender, not overwhelmed by the truffle, and served with sliced garlic potatoes and sautéed spinach. The bread delivered before the meal in a Mr. B's bag, was strong sourdough and was perfectly baked. Mr. B's renditions of Lemon Ice Box Pie and Hot Buttered Pecan Pie were taken to go after the meal, and did well even after waiting some time to be served.

From my vantage point, I was able to observe the full team service effort. First, there were dozens of black and white-uniformed staff members buzzing about, not in a frenzy, but quietly and quickly. The kitchen churned out plates like clockwork, exchanging and adjusting dishes as requested. When someone left the table, a staff member promptly picked up and folded their napkin and placed it across the arm of their chair. I overheard a table captain asking a server to return the table's salads to the kitchen and to ask the kitchen to slow the entrees, as the table had just gotten into their appetizers. Our to go items arrived with an extra Bread Pudding, just for us to try. The demeanor of the staff was always pleasant, but with a seriousness toward complete care of their guests.

Mr. B's delivered a most-efficient experience in the midst of a busy evening, without my having a reservation, and without feeling too formal or stuffy. It is easy to see why it garners awards as a business destination. The quality of service was more than matched by the authentic foods full of local flavor. For business and pleasure, Mr. B's Bistro is a good choice.

Mr. B's Bistro - 201 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA 70130

Van Webb 5/27/15 Van Webb 5/27/15

Simple Service - Make Change

Attention to finer details is important to overall satisfaction, and continues through the completion of a dining experience.

Relatively often when paying with cash, a server will bring change after rounding up to the next dollar. If the check were $74.65 and I paid with eighty dollars, the change would be the five bills, without the thirty-five cents difference. I know...What is the big deal? It is a trivial amount, and I admittedly leave most coins on the table. But whether from dislike of recollecting and accounting for leftover change, laziness toward counting it out initially, or encouragement by management, it is presumptuous for a server to keep the change unless it is initiated by the customer.

This technique annoys me tremendously, and can have lasting effects. Questions come to mind about the server's demeanor throughout the meal, or where else the server and even the restaurant might cut corners. The immediate result is an automatically lower tip, more than making up for the missing coins. But more than a couple of bucks on this visit, I will remember the action if I return, and avoid the server. And, if the entire dining experience were average, keeping change might easily tip me over to the decision of not returning at all.

Counting out a few coins is an easy way to avoid irritating a customer. If a restaurant accepts (or requires!) cash payment, it should be policy for servers to give change in the full amount. Or, to leave a subtly impressive parting shot, round down to the nearest dollar, and return a little extra. It will pay off, now and in the future.

Van Webb 5/15/15 Van Webb 5/15/15

Six Months Of Van The Wine Man

It has been a busy six months since I started Van The Wine Man, with wine and restaurant service experiences from coast to coast. Thank you for reading and connecting with me along the way, whether online or in-person. If this is the first time you have visited my blog, or if you want to look back with me, here are my most-popular posts to date:

Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine

The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel Of DB Brasserie

Wine Buying Strategy

Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

Craig Collins MS On Austin And Professional Service

Van Webb 5/12/15 Van Webb 5/12/15

Best Of New York City Wine Service And Dining

Here are the standouts from my recent visit to New York.

Wine

Bergadano Barolo Sarmassa 2007 at Elio's - A smooth and sweet Barolo to accompany a rich veal dish.
E. Guigal Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007 at Peter Luger - On the lighter side, but accompanied the steak well.
Claudia Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Dry Red Wine 2003 - Typically good Italian table wine in a Little Italy restaurant.
Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011 at Les Halles Downtown
Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose at Buddakan

Service

The Carlyle - See my review
Bergdorf Goodman Bar - While the restaurant was booked, with even a wait for the bar, the busy bartender quickly knew just the martini I was after.
Ritz Carlton Battery Park Bar - Bar service at night was good, but Victor took note of me mid-morning. I was looking for the coffee service, which had been taken down, and a light snack for the road. He promptly returned with a large coffee and a box of baked goods, on the house!
Peter Luger - Thorough service from seven people over the course of an hour.
Les Halles Downtown - Excellent service from one waiter over the course of an hour.

Dining

Elio's - A serious old school Italian eatery served up a fine prosciutto and gorgonzola-stuffed veal chop, but I could not stop eating the bowl of al dente angel hair with garlic and parmesan.
21 Club - The classic "Speakeasy" Steak Tartare, matched by perfectly round, thin, and crisp Chicken Paillard with arugula.
Peter Luger Steak House - Steak for two, creamed spinach, extra thick bacon, and extra-extra Peter Luger attitude.
Les Halles Downtown - See my review
Katz's Delicatessen - Pastrami, period.

Best Cocktail

Brooklyn Gin Martini with Lemon Peel at Bergdorf Goodman Bar

Van Webb 5/8/15 Van Webb 5/8/15

The Carlyle - Superlative Service In NYC

Outstanding service is easiest when all proceeds according to expectations, but what happens when issues arise? My wife and I recently stayed at The Carlyle to celebrate our anniversary, and our timing was anything but on-schedule. Here are several examples of how the staff worked around our timing to deliver complete satisfaction.

Upon arrival just after noon on Sunday, our room was understandably not yet ready. An enthusiastic and friendly Patrick from guest services approached, said he had been "waiting for us", and wished us happy anniversary. He offered to assist with anything we needed, and arranged for prime dinner seating at Buddakan. While we were out, he had delivered to our room a beautiful flower arrangement, a small cake, and a hand-written note welcoming us. He also followed up a day after we checked out, attempting to secure for us some sold-out tickets we had requested.

Bemelmans Bar - Completely covered in original art by Ludwig Bemelmans, creator of Madeline — Bemelmans Bar - Completely covered in original art by Ludwig Bemelmans, creator of Madeline

Returning after ten that evening, we were eager to visit the famous Bemelmans Bar, but the bar and Cafe Carlyle were closed for Sarah Jessica Parker's private birthday party. We settled into a cozy, open booth at the end of the lounge area intersecting entrances to the Carlyle Restaurant, Bemelmans, and Cafe Carlyle. We caught the attention of one of the staff members buzzing between the closed restaurant and the party, and inquired about coffee and tea service. We were surprised when only a few minutes later, a waiter brought a tray with fresh coffee, hot water, a tea selection, and all the usual accompaniments. We were checked on frequently, though we were the only ones being served in the lounge.

The next morning we arrived in The Carlyle Restaurant toward the end of breakfast, and I desired to order from the menu instead of partaking of the buffet. The restaurant was close to empty, staff was light, and we found ourselves being waited on personally by Norbert, the general manager. I ordered corned beef hash, which he warned kindly was cooked to order and would take twenty minutes. While tending to changing the restaurant over for lunch, Norbert stayed nearby and made pleasant conversation. When my wife pointed out an elephant sconce that was hanging crookedly, he was aghast, adjusted it promptly, apologized, and thanked her. This personal service and attention to detail is clearly ingrained in the staff from top to bottom. "I'll see you tomorrow", Norbert said as we departed.

Which leads to another point. From the initial greeting, to Norbert's comment, to numerous elevator bellmen, and even housekeeping, nearly everyone called us by name and appeared to be working around our schedule. There were some coincidental statements, and some leading questions, but primarily, I felt that the staff knew us, and cared enough to have an idea of when we would be coming and going. Most impressive!

For our second trip to the restaurant, we were too late for breakfast altogether, and it would not re-open for lunch for over an hour. Norbert sat us up at "our table" in the lounge area, where we enjoyed breakfast with full service. We again felt that we had a private dining room, and never wanted for attention.

Service at The Carlyle was frequently and promptly adjusted to make us happy. Whether for a special occasion, or conducting serious business, it is all you would expect based on its price and reputation.

The Carlyle, A Rosewood Hotel - 35 East 76th Street, New York, NY 10021

Van Webb 5/6/15 Van Webb 5/6/15

NYC Wine And Dining - Les Halles Downtown

Brasserie Les Halles, with two locations in Manhattan, boasts much history and hype. The juice blend that became V-8 was originated in the building that houses the Park Avenue location. Anthony Bourdain was formerly the executive chef there, and features the restaurant frequently in two cookbooks, Kitchen Confidential and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook. I recently visited the downtown location on a Friday night.

After a late night arrival near the Financial Distrct, Les Halles Downtown was a casual scene where it was easy to get a table. The main room was dark and seductive, with several couples and groups huddled at tables or along the fabulous bar. The bar stretches nearly the full length of the restaurant on one side, with shelves full of wine lining the back wall on either side of a large clock. Exotic red wood panels break up the golden yellow painted walls, with posters and prints positioned throughout. It is an authentic setting, one you feel you would find in Paris, with dining to match.

I started with Salade d’Auvergne, with arugula, bleu d’Auvergne, roasted walnuts and apples. Dinner included Mignon de Porc “Maison”, a pork tenderloin, with garlic confit and mashed potatoes, and classic Coq au Vin, with plentiful bacon and mushrooms. For beverages, I tasted the Spiced Mojito, made with lemongrass jalapeño syrup, and muddled mint, topped off with ginger beer, and a Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011. The wine, an entry-level Burgundy, was earthy and dry, with tart berries and good length that paired well with the flavors of the entrees. The wine list was not large, but had good variety among mostly French selections, all attractively priced. Upon another visit, I plan to have one of the prime steaks, billed as "American Beef, French Style".

It could have been that I had one of the few tables being served at the end of the night, but service was pleasant and attentive from a primary waiter, who was assisted only for food delivery. While French service style may have a reputation for stiffness and air of superiority, I found myself feeling well-cared for throughout the experience, and would have gladly lingered for a coffee had time permitted.

Les Halles Downtown delivered a thoroughly satisfying, and reasonably-priced, dining experience, and took me even further out of town than I was.

Brasserie Les Halles on Park Avenue - 411 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10016

Brasserie Les Halles Downtown - 15 John Street, New York, New York 10038

Van Webb 4/28/15 Van Webb 4/28/15

No Tips - For Better Restaurant Service

Tipping is an altogether unfortunate custom in the United States. One that, in the end, satisfies no one. Neither restaurant owners, servers, certainly not busboys, especially not kitchen staff, nor I are happy with the current arrangement. In her article on the matter, Why Tipping Should Be Outlawed, Elizabeth Gunnison Dunn gave a solid list of evidence in support of the elimination of discretionary gratuity and its unequal distribution. (see point number six) Wholesale changes to the system are in order.

Camino restaurant in Oakland was highlighted recently for A Revolution In Tipping, after instituting a "No Tips" policy. Including the cost of service in menu prices, and spreading the funds among all staff members is not a new strategy, but one that has yet to become mainstream. Similar trailblazing has proven to be a controversial and high-risk maneuver, resulting in potential short-term discomfort, and intense scrutiny for operators and employees. However, as chef-owner Russell Moore stated in the Camino article, employees that are not comfortable with innovation of this nature may not be a good fit in the first place. And consumers that are unwilling to support included service might be happier dining on fast food. Would even Mr. Pink object to outstanding service being included in the price of a meal? I say remove the guesswork and awkwardness, and let the staff concentrate on delivering excellent service.

Bold moves like Moore's are sure to have impact, and will hopefully lead the way to an overhauling of restaurant service in the U.S. I would revise the statement on their site above, slightly. Maybe, "our price$ now include $ervice $o our employee$ can focu$ completely on your $ati$fying experience". As it is, Camino's policy is a big step toward breaking up the gloomy cloud surrounding this aspect of dining out.

Van Webb 4/22/15 Van Webb 4/22/15

Craig Collins, MS On Austin And Professional Service

I met up with Master Sommelier Craig Collins as he took a breath from a schedule that appears overwhelming to a mere mortal. In the process of juggling regular duties as Beverage Director for ELM Restaurant Group's three existing restaurants, he came from staff training for Italic, the new Italian concept whose opening was only two weeks away. These alongside his two-week-old activities as a new father, and all taking place during the excessive busyness of SXSW. Without his head spinning, he took time to drink a beer and share some of his experiences and philosophies on Easy Tiger's hopping deck.

from italy to austin

Craig shared how he fell in love with wine while studying abroad during college in Tuscany, where he became enamored especially with Italian wines. It was also where he solidified his friendship with Chef Andrew Curren, now owner of ELM. Italy's food and wine culture made a deep impression on him. "Family and food are the most important things there, and family is not just family, but also friends, with closeness and togetherness. I think that's great." The roommates determined to follow their passions of wine and cooking, and often discussed opening a restaurant, with Craig front of house, and Andrew in the back. But soon finding himself working for an Italian-specialized wine importer in Austin, Collins thought he was set. "I had never worked in a restaurant. I thought I was an importer for life."

renowned for service

"Ten years ago, there were no Sommeliers in Austin, and now there are fifteen to twenty beverage-focused programs," he said. Austin is growing and changing, and part of this scenario is an acclaimed, chef-owner and beverage-driven restaurant service culture. Craig is one of a few original Austin Sommeliers that studied together and have remained instrumental in establishing the improvement and expansion. The results include a broader range of fine dining establishments, an emphasis on beverages, and attraction of national attention. Advancement and changes have also come for Collins. A year after he passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, the documentary SOMM contributed to Sommelier becoming a mainstream and highly-sought position, particularly in a growth market like Austin, further increasing the local talent pool. Along the way, Curren convinced his old friend to join ELM to open a French themed restaurant, ARRO.

Four restaurants later, with more in the works, ELM as well as Austin is booming. Collins and others have ensured that careful attention is directed toward developing the next generation to carry on highest levels of service. He is cautious, though, about the flavor of hype given his profession. "I don’t want to bring back the pretension to the position, or for it to sound like it is a rock star life. Everyone knows now the work it takes to become a Master, but the work after you pass? It’s more. Instead of focusing on a singular goal, you have many focuses, and it's harder. People have expectations." To be sure to keep up with expectations, he maintains an impressive standard for communication. "I try to respond in twelve hours, not twenty-four. That is the expectation I set for myself." I can attest. Unknowingly, I emailed Collins about meeting on the day his son was being born. Even then, he replied by the next morning.

As Craig described preparing meals and stocking his refrigerator for his wife while she gets used to life with their baby, (a menu of foods that she can eat one-handed) it was clear that delivering satisfying service is his way of life. Roles as family man, restaurant group manager, and industry leader do not prevent him from making even random strangers like me to feel well cared for. Summing up how he manages a stacked and constantly changing schedule so completely and pleasantly, he said. "That is professional service."

Van Webb 4/9/15 Van Webb 4/9/15

Don't Run Out Of Wine - Simple Service

You put time and effort into deciphering a wine list, find the bottle that excites you, wait with anticipation for an extended time, and the server finally reports that the restaurant is out of it. Matthew Kaner names this scenario as a motivator for the "no wine list" concept of Bar Covell. Few occurrences have the ability to crash and burn a dining experience faster and more decisively.

A restaurant verifying available wines before each dining window should be an obvious and increasingly easy task. Wines without sufficient number can be removed from the list, or at the very least the wait staff will be prepared in advance for selections with limited quantities. Wines that do run out can be crossed off the list (or board) to notify staff and patrons, and manage expectations.

Why would management take a chance that you will not order that wine? Simple, consistent inventory management and adjustments, along with courteous communication, will insure the restaurant always has your wine satisfaction in mind.

Van Webb 4/7/15 Van Webb 4/7/15

Chez Nous - Fabulous French Off Sixth Street, Austin

Chez Nous is an intimate French bistro waiting to impress, yet completely unexpected at its address just off Sixth Street in Austin. I enjoyed two late night dining experiences during the managed chaos of SXSW, with an interesting variance in the satisfying service.

The first visit was on a busy Friday night around ten. When I asked if they featured a good selection of French wines by the glass, the first staff member gave me a puzzled expression, confirmed the wines, and showed me to a table. Another server appeared concerned as I deliberated for several minutes over a glass of wine and salad. Five members of the staff visited my table to check on me throughout the evening, keeping me pleasantly content. About the time I declined anything further, I had a change in plans and decided I would have dessert. A server, having presented the check, appeared impatient and did not come back to the table that night. Nonetheless, I was well cared for as I enjoyed dessert and coffee, and I made plans to return another night for a full meal.

The second visit was on the following Tuesday night at eight, not quite as active in the restaurant. My primary server became the same person that did not return to the table on the previous evening. She recognized and greeted me enthusiastically. I concluded the previous events had been coincidence, as she and the team provided even more attentive and well-rounded service. Teamwork among staff members, which include the three French owners, was smooth and efficient, delivering a classy casual experience.

Wine choices were many. My first night glass was Lascaux, a dry white blend from Languedoc. For the big meal, a nice Les Galets De Sauveterre Cotes du Rhone 2011. On both nights I had Salade Lyonnaise with a poached egg, the second night with large crumbled lardons. The server recommended Cotes d'agneau Manon, New Zealand lamb chops with a white bean ragou and broccolinis, as well as Entrecôte bearnaise, a ribeye with frites, which were excellent. For dessert, I loved the Profiterolles, two ice cream filled pastry puffs with chocolate sauce. Their "coffee" is a firm, bold Cafe Americano, which I was also thrilled to receive as my coffee to go.

Chez Nous has charming French country and vintage decor, complete with fresh flowers on the tables. A fun and interchangeable team will see to your needs and happiness diligently. The broad and authentic French menu is what Chez Nous is all about, though. It is understandable that they have thrived in such an unlikely location for over three decades, and is a total package that is to be desired.

Chez Nous - 510 Neches Street, Austin, TX 78701

Van Webb 4/3/15 Van Webb 4/3/15

Best Of SXSW Austin Wine Service & Dining

In Austin for the always insane SXSW Interactive, which now includes expansive food and beverage programming, there was not sufficient brain power or time for a proper tasting. Also, as always, I enjoyed a good selection of wine lists and experiences.

Wine lists

Carmelo’s
Chez Nous - Small and fun, encouraging your French experimentation with several by the glass choices.
Second Bar + Kitchen
Max's Wine Dive - Good opportunities to try bottles that were opened the day before, but larger pours would be even more attractive.
Vince Young Steakhouse

Service

Carmelo’s - Fast, frequent, and everyone is smiling.
Chez Nous - Service from five people in a small, cozy space. Accommodating and on-point.
Second Bar + Kitchen - Great from the start, when the hostess noticed the table wobbled and worked on the base until it was balanced.
Biscuits & Groovy - Service from a food trailer? A great display of anticipation, from what to eat, to where to find coffee around the corner.
Old Pecan Street Cafe - They were happy to seat and serve us five minutes before close.

Dining

Chez Nous - Lyonnaise salad with bacon, lamb chops with white bean ragu, French wine and service. The Profiterolles dessert is special. Their "coffee" is a bold Americano, even to go.
Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken - Having dined at multiple locations, this is second only to the Memphis original. Crisp and spicy!
Biscuits & Groovy - Gloria Gaynor. Johnny Hash. Creative, cool, and delicious.
Easy Tiger - A fabulous chocolate almond pastry, filled with almond cream in the bake shop for breakfast. The beer garden for later.
Vince Young Steakhouse - It is difficult to beat a well-stocked bar and prime beef.

Best Cocktail

Gin & Jam at Second Bar + Kitchen

Van Webb 3/26/15 Van Webb 3/26/15

Whiskey Tasting - Vince Young Steakhouse, Austin

Tastings are not always exclusive to wine. Here are tasting notes from a small selection of fine whiskeys I recently enjoyed.

Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year - This was beautiful. As would be expected from a label that reads, "From Pappy Van Winkle's Private Stock". Vanilla came through early, with spice and pepper on the finish.

Jefferson's Presidential Select 25 Year - Also delicious, and my favorite of the four. Maple and wood surrounded spices. Smooth.

Willett Family Estate Bottled Rye 6 Year - A great contrast of sweet and spicy, all in one.

Colonel E. H. Taylor Small Batch - The lightest of the four, with sweetness and buttery smoothness.

The bar at Vince Young Steakhouse is massive, with a selection of wine, spirits, and craft beers to match! They were completely understaffed for my dinner experience during SXSW, but the bar alone is enough to bring me back for another try.

Vince Young Steakhouse - 301 San Jacinto, Austin, TX 78701

Van Webb 3/24/15 Van Webb 3/24/15

Mac's Bar-B-Que, Dallas - Nurturing Community

Billy slices up everything while you wait

Mac's Bar-B-Que in Deep Ellum, Dallas, is the kind of restaurant you might expect to find in a smaller community in rural Texas, one where everyone knows everyone. Mac's is that kind of place, only with a much larger population, in its position just east of downtown Big D. Second-generation owner Billy McDonald greeted a dozen of his customers by name during my visit for a late weekday lunch. It was obvious by the animated conversations that Mac's is a hub, where regulars congregate, regularly.

Although it was my first visit, it did not stop Billy from treating me like he knew me. While I deliberated over the smoked sausage or hot links, he interjected, "Let me take care of that," as he presented freshly-cut, thinly-sliced samples. I settled on the hot link, which contained finely diced jalapeño. Billy cut and plated everything while I watched, before I settled at one of the twelve tables. My tasting including Saint Louis Pork Ribs, wonderfully crispy french fries, a beef brisket baked potato, and sweet beans. He sliced the hot link very thin, so that they resembled chips. The ribs were tender and conveyed a thick hickory smoked flavor as promised. A milder, semi-sour sauce accompanied the meats.

When there were not people waiting to order, Billy spent time sitting at various tables, talking everything from smoked meats to local politics with customers. When I asked about being a fixture in the local neighborhood, he spoke of the effect of being in almost the same location for sixty-three years. This is actually the third address for Mac's, but all were within walking distance of the current restaurant. He talked of the importance of consistency, both in product and service. "People have expectations, and we are here to deliver." On being in such a competitive category as Texas BBQ, he said there have been a lot of changes, many brought on by larger companies seeking to dominate with scale, not necessarily good smoked meats. Regarding larger restaurants that seat hundreds in a loud environment, he said, "When you have wine, you want to be able to enjoy it, you don't want to drink it in a football stadium full of people...from a plastic cup."

Billy carried on serving up delicious BBQ and lively conversations. The meats speak for themselves, but Billy's commitment to nurturing the Mac's community is the true special sauce.

Mac's Bar-B-Que - 3933 Main Street, Dallas, Texas 75226

Van Webb 3/17/15 Van Webb 3/17/15

Best of Santa Fe - Wine Service and Dining

A brief, but satisfying, weekend wine and dining adventure.

Wine

This trip was not focused on wine discovery, but I still found time for a few treats:

Service

Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves - Kaz, Japanese Customer Service Manager, (their title) was everywhere. At the restaurant. At the spa check-in. Around the spa grounds. Always checking on me personally, attentively. Delivering messages between spouses creatively. My Izanami waitress was similarly attentive, taking extra time to guide me through a sake tasting and explaining the food items, like the Kinpira Gobo below.
The Compound - Alex and his team of five took very good care of us from start to finish. He was particularly helpful with wine selection, finding out our desires and recommending the wine that was drinking best at the time, and cheapest, of three bottles in consideration.

Food

The Compound - I tasted twelve food items, from Tuna Tartare to a chocolate snowball treat, and all were delightful in their own ways. Braised Lamb Osso Bucco with wild mushroom risotto and garlic chips was a replacement (for veal) feature that stood out.
Smothered Breakfast Burrito at Tune-Up Cafe - Roasted and smoky the green chile sauce would have been enjoyable as a soup, but performed well over the bacon, egg, and potato burrito.
Kinpira Gobo at Izanami - My surprise of the trip, with slivers of burdock root, and carrot, in sesame soy dressing. Light, simple, and startlingly therapeutic to nibble at with chopsticks.
Green Chile Breakfast Burrito at The Anasazi Restaurant and Bar

Best cocktail

Blood Orange Margarita at Fuego Restaurant

Van Webb 3/13/15 Van Webb 3/13/15

Coffee To Go - Simple Service

Coffee to go: Simple satisfaction — Coffee to go: Simple satisfaction

After dining out, coffee to go is one of my favorite things, a finishing touch that extends the experience, potentially for hours. I almost always ask for it if the coffee was good, even in hot seasons.

I am disappointed at the number of restaurants that serve coffee, but do not have hot beverage to go cups of any sort. I have had burning hot coffee delivered to me in a soft drink cup, too hot to hold comfortably, with a lid made for a straw-only. Some servers get creative, which I like. However, drinking coffee from a short, broad soup bowl can be unwieldy. I ponder how many gallons of good coffee, that could have been sent out with happier diners, are disposed of on a daily basis.

Shout outs for coffee to go are to Bouchon Las Vegas, and BBD II The Deuce, from my home plate of Tulsa. My waiter at Bouchon offered me coffee to go, surprisingly rare for a fine dining establishment. Cooley and the gang at BBD II almost always offer one to go.

For simple service, coffee to go is one of the easiest, fastest, most-efficient, and cheapest ways to satisfy.

Van Webb 3/10/15 Van Webb 3/10/15

Raising Expectations Of Restaurant Service

Excellent service is often the determining factor in our dining satisfaction. With delicious foods and drinks, the hospitality provided by the staff completes the best experiences. If the meal was not up to par, consideration by staff and management can cover over the disappointment, to an extent. Or, if service is lacking, an otherwise outstanding meal may be ruined. Why, then, do we often tolerate average service, allowing it to dampen our enjoyment of dining out, and pay a premium for it in the form of gratuity?

Without relieving restaurant ownership of their obligation, we the consumers bear responsibility to repair this predicament. We must not be lazy about what we expect in dining service, on the basis of what is habitual, convenient, or socially-accepted. By raising our expectations, and following through by expressing our desires, firmly when necessary, we will impact our individual servers, and their management. When we make our preferences known, the restaurant staff can choose to accommodate us, or not. Often, with clear direction, they will deliver on our highest expectations.

Then it is back on us to patronize restaurants known for delivering the best service, and avoid those that offer less. The choice is simple and practical, but we must care more about the outcome when making it.

Van Webb 3/3/15 Van Webb 3/3/15

Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More

Master Sommelier. Vallin winemaker. SOMM Film Star. Les Marchands Wine Bar owner. Brian McClintic shared some of his experiences from all aspects of his busy schedule.

What was it like having a camera in your face while studying for the master sommelier exam?

I think it impacted me positively. The Master Sommelier test is very social. The tasting is with a panel. Service is obviously social. The theory test is oral. You’re walking around with so much information in your head, a lot of people become socially awkward. The film forced me to come out of my shell, to lighten up and stay loose, and be the best version of myself. I was able to stay outside myself, to not get lost in myself.

how do you drink your way through a calendar packed with wine projects?

I cry myself to sleep every night?! Really, they just flow into each other. We were already making wine, and it all happened at once after the movie in a whirlwind. It’s ironic, wine is to celebrate, it’s social. It’s not like coffee, not a shot of espresso and go about your day. With wine we take our time. My day is not like that. Imagine if your job was eating just your favorite food. Now imagine if I asked you to start eating it twice a day. And you love steak. You wouldn’t be able to do that very long, not without throwing a salad in. I’m tasting wines constantly. Your palate can only take so much. But I love what I do. I remind myself at the end of the day that it’s just wine.

What wines were difference-makers for you?

As for ah-ha wines, there was never one, but there were several stages along the way. I was working at a steakhouse, and it was all about Napa Cab. From five to five-hundred-dollars. That’s where I learned to taste the difference. But then a guest would ask about our tiny French section, and I would think, “Bordeaux, is that a grape or a section? How do you pronounce these things?” So one night I splurged. I bought an eighty-five Pomerol, and took it to a friend who would know, and it was like, “Oh!” The smells and tastes were like nothing I knew. That was my new to old world intro. At a certain point you experience Burgundy, and at first you think, “It’s thin and soft, it smells light. Why is everyone going crazy for this?” I was working at the Little Nell in Aspen, and had my first Grand Cru Burgundy. That was when I got Burgundy. After that, going back to Napa Cab...they seemed unctuous, over the top. If it were just me, ninety-percent of what I drink would be whites.

what do people need to know about santa barbara wine?

Oh, I could talk forever. So there’s the new world of wine, it’s still in it’s infancy. In the old world, monks have been making wine over the course of centuries. Santa Barbara was only planted in seventy-one, so it’s very young. All of California, really, are like infants playing in a sandbox. Just highly gifted, intelligent infants. It’s the old world we learn from and give credit to, and we’ve come far very quickly. But do we know what grows best where? No, not until we know what is best viticulturally. Santa Barbara is a geographic anomaly. San Francisco area is great, cellar temperature year-round. Santa Barbara has the coolest, longest growing season in the valley. It allows us to plant grapes that ripen, but grow over a longer period of time. But it’s branded for tourism. You say “Napa” or “Sonoma” you immediately think wine. You say “Paso Robles”, you think wine. You say “Santa Barbara”, you think palm trees, sun, beaches, and bikinis, not wine. Everyone asks, “How can we change it?” I say, “Don’t! Stay out of the spotlight while we figure it out.” Maybe Gruner Veltliner is perfect for growing, but Pinot Noir is the most marketable. Now there are progressive growers who choose to plant what’s best, not what is most marketable. There are makers who want to work with Gruner Veltliner and others like it. And there are drinkers who want to try Gruner Veltliner, that are more open than ever. I like to say Santa Barbara has unlimited potential.

On winemaking and service

Vallin was not started to be a money-maker. It was to keep four guys connected together. But once we started, we decided, “OK, we’re going to do some serious wine.” Lots of somms make wine, put juice in a bottle, put a label on it, we’re not doing that. We said, “So Syrah is not the most marketable wine. Syrah is a world-class grape, let’s get behind it.” Northern Rhone is the heart of Syrah, and we made it our focal point. We were in Burgundy, drinking Jamet Cote Rotie. Let that sink in. Vallin was on the label, we liked how it looked on the label. We researched and found it was a street name, then went further and found it was actually a surname. Vallin means valley dwellers, from people that originally settled the Rhone valley. We said, “That’s cool and simple, let’s go with it.” It’s exciting to see three years later, we sold out of the ‘twelve, and are just waiting for the ‘thirteen in the barrel to be ready to bottle.

Brian exams the well-stocked shelves at Les Marchands

Service for a sommelier is different than any other service. The court teaches specific standards of service, so that if the Queen of England asks you to do a wine service, you could deliver that. It’s very technically precise. With staff, it’s different. You take the clientele, the concept, into account. Les Marchands is not buttoned-up like formal fine dining. We’re very warm and approachable, and technically proficient. Usually it is one of these, but not both. This is without being stuffy or pretentious. We size up each guest. We tailor service to each guest, it’s all about how we meet them where they are. Michael Jordan, the sommelier not the basketball player, is a master sommelier and my mentor. He said, “It’s not how much you know, it’s how much you care.” That’s something that has stuck with me, so simple but so powerful. We guess where guests are at, and think how can we meet them there. Invariably every night there is one guest you could have done something better. And being attuned to the needs of others is something applicable to every area of life.

expect to experiment at Les Marchands wine bar & merchant, santa barbara

Most people look at our by the glass list and say, “What language is this?” But then we pour them a tasting and they’re in. We’ve found that “yeah, I’ll try it” makes up about ninety-percent of our clientele. When we originally told our investors we wanted mostly lesser-known European varietals on the list, they said, “Are you crazy?!” But these are balanced out by the local wines. There are tremendous values from strange places. Not just to be strange, but good, high-level wines. But they're not marketed, so they’re way underpriced.

What Brian described here played out in my experience at Les Marchands. Several staffers combined to accommodate my group's requests with recommendations that were right on target, and there were many unfamiliar wines available for tasting, along with attractive pricing. Wines by the glass change frequently, allowing for an ongoing educational process for those fortunate enough to be regular patrons.

Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchants

Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101

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Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.

I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.

Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46

I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome.

There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.

Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.

Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101

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Best Of Los Angeles Wine, Service, And Dining

The standouts from my visit to Los Angeles and SoCal, from Laguna to Lompoc:

wine

Sandhi Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - These first two are Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman's Santa Barbara projects. Full coverage here.
Domaine De La Cote Sta Rita Hills 2012 - Pinot Noir...
Terre Des Chardones "Marginal" 2012 - Found at Les Marchands. A funky, earthy Syrah-Grenache with a sweet hint to end.
Calabretta Vino Rosso "Cala Cala" NV - Also from Les Marchands. "The magma in the body". Drink from Mount Etna.
Marotti Campi Rubico Lacrima Di Morro D'Alba 2012 - Discovered at the Slow Wine event. The story here.

service

Domaine De La Cote Tasting Room - Outstanding hospitality, throughout set up and a generous tasting. Lompoc
Open Sesame - Friendly, thorough service and constant attention, from only one server. Long Beach
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant - Brian McClintic's thriving operation. Four staff members assisted with everything from setting up an impromptu tasting, to advising on a selection of Cote Rotie to take home. Santa Barbara
Hotel Shangri-La Dining Room Bar - A right-proper mimosa, with just a splash of OJ, but they had me at Whistle Pig Rye. Santa Monica
C'est La Vie Restaurant and Bakery - French foods and baked goods were good. The view of the ocean from the upstairs deck, along with entertaining service from "Gary Glitter" made the experience. Gary knows anything you need to know about the area. Laguna Beach

food

Republique - I left wanting more. Read about it. 624 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles
Open Sesame - Beef shawarma, lamb chops, hummus, garlic fried potatoes. Musar Jeune 2011. A great experience. Long Beach
Kogi BBQ Truck - The sweet chili chicken quesadilla, Kogi dog, and various tacos on the hood of my rental. Various locations
Tortilla Republic - Great sauces on both the duck enchiladas with a habanero cream sauce and mole chicken enchiladas. West Hollywood
Ma 'n Pa Grocery - "World Famous Fried Chicken" every Wednesday...from a converted gas station. Long Beach

best cocktail

Patterson’s Nap at Melrose Umbrella Company - Cool drink in a cooler place. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Tangerine, Lemon, Campari. West Hollywood

best to be

Augustine Wine Bar - Now open! 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks

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Wine Bars And Service In LA - Talking With Matthew Kaner

Matthew Kaner, co-owner of Bar Covell on Hollywood Boulevard, and the new Augustine Wine Bar in Sherman Oaks, spoke with high-speed enthusiasm on his background and philosophy of wine service, during the final "hell hole" days before the recent opening of Augustine.

wine fast tracking

I got drunk for the first time at seven years old. I stole a glass of champagne at a friend’s wedding, I’ll never forget it. That set the course for my life. I grew up in Santa Barbara County, a big producing area. Grapes were always something I saw, something I was familiar with. So I knew I had a closeness and affinity for it, even though I wasn’t old enough to drink it legally. So, fast-forward to my eighteen-year-old years, I’m managing a restaurant, I went to college in Santa Barbara, and I lived in a house that was known as the Cock House. Eleven guys, it is what you think with the name. One of my roommates had this well-to-do, tax attorney dad, and he decided I was worth investing time and money and effort into. I don’t know why, I don’t question it, but he showed me what Grand Cru Burgundy meant, and what grower Champagne meant, what Madiera from the 1800s meant, and what aged Armagnac meant, and all these things I didn’t know about prior to that. Fast-forward a little more to being a twenty-one-year-old, feeling taken advantage of being a restaurant manager at that age, and I was also trying to do music, something that was really important to me. I made a lot of music for many years, and toured as long as I could. So, one of the things that my whole life goal was, was being able to afford a nice bottle of wine. So I decided to fake it until I made it. I used the knowledge that I was imparted by my friend’s dad, and I quit my restaurant job. I got a job in Santa Barbara at a place called the Wine Cask, and that was where I started, coming up on ten years ago. And that changed my life. I learned about any and every important wine you can imagine. I moved to Los Angeles in 2006, and I got a job at a place called Silver Lake Wine. That’s where I learned about showing up every day and being a part of a community. That’s where I learned, it’s not how much I know, it’s how much I help people. That’s where I made my decision consciously that I was going to focus on wine as a job. So when I had that mindset, that’s when things really started to happen, the wheels were in motion. I felt like the momentum was undeniable. And I was very lucky. I was approached by a friend who was going to open a wine bar. He asked me about it in 2009, and we took the plunge in 2010. We opened Covell July 2nd, 2010, and life has not been the same since. I feel blessed every day.

Matthew and Dave in the latter stages of Augustine construction

do you have your wine decoder ring? - Bar Covell

The no wine list thing was a synthesis of all my big pet peeves. So, you go to a place, you’ve heard about it. They hand you a wine list, you think, “Oh, I can’t wait to see what they have to offer.” You find a couple of things you’re excited about, you make that decision about what you want to buy, and they’re f*/%g out of it! All that time and effort, all that communication, all the recommendations, all of the sudden, the first thing you try to order, they’re out of it. You can never be out of a wine if you don’t have a wine list. Number one. Number two, at Covell, nothing stayed the same. Our wine program of, let’s say one-hundred-fifty wines by the glass, was almost never the same. It would change over weekly, we would sell out of a wine, and it would never come back. It would have been such an intense amount of work to keep up with that, keep it printed, it would have been a waste of my time, a waste of resources, a waste of ink, a waste of paper, just not a smart way to do it. Number three is, most people don’t speak nine languages, most people don’t have a wine decoder ring on, so basically you’re saying, “This primary source document in nine languages, each time I hand it to you, I assume you know what it means, that you know how to read it.” And that’s not the case. So what it comes down to is that it’s not the best way for people to make an informed decision. Having a conversation, though, with someone who knows what they’re talking about, tends to be a better way of making decisions. Other than reading from right to left, “How much does this cost, what is it, oh, OK, I’ll buy that.” So, the encouragement there is, start a conversation, with a little bit of knowledge, we can get a long way together. And just because someone’s never heard of wines from Cornalin, or they’ve never had Tasmanian Riesling, that doesn’t mean they won’t like it. One of the things at Covell that we’re really good at doing, is separating what you know and what you’ve had, and giving context. If you want something light and mineral, it doesn’t matter what it’s called, it matters that it’s light and mineral! And that’s what we deliver. At the end of the day, does it pleasure me, or does it not pleasure me. That’s the end goal, finding that out. So the no wine list, the idea behind the program, other than I’ve never seen it done before, and it’s the most insane undertaking we’ve ever done, it’s a synthesis of things that really piss me off in the industry, that I’m trying to solve.

THE BEST (NON) SOMM

Here’s the deal. With the term Sommelier, there’s such an expectation. I personally quit college, and that’s the last test I took in my life. I don’t take exams, I don’t feel the need to do it, I don’t need to prove myself. But, I have a lot of friends that have gone through the Court of Master Sommeliers, that have gone through the other accreditations. There’s such an incredible time, monetary effort behind that. I have so much respect for people that need to learn, that are constantly on the higher path to know everything about a field. For me personally, I’ve learned through tasting, I’ve learned through traveling, through talking about it, through soaking it up, being a sponge. I’ve never gone through any accreditation myself. So, I’ve been called a Sommelier, I’ve been called one of the best Sommeliers in the country in certain years which is very flattering, and I’m so thankful. But I’m technically not one, because I don’t have accreditation. My argument, for what it’s worth, is that it doesn’t help me help my customers better, so it’s not something that I feel the need to do. But again, some of my friends, that’s their life work, that’s their passion, it’s their calling. And I have the utmost respect for it, because it makes sense in their life. So, am I a Sommelier? Yeah, I do what a Sommelier does, and make people happy with wine. I can pair wine very well with food. I can get you wine for without food. I can do whatever is necessary. But, am I one? I guess. Do I have paper to back it up? No, but does that matter? I argue not. Some of my most-respected colleagues do not have accreditation. It doesn’t mean that you’re better. It doesn’t mean that you get a fancy job. It doesn’t make you someone that can communicate to human beings. It just means that you passed an exam. It means that you paid the fees. It means that you tasted a lot of stuff. It means that you have an i-brain, instead of an iPhone. It’s a synthesis of memorization, repetition. That’s an unbelievable thing to do. There’s another reason why there’s only two-hundred-fifty human beings that have done it. It’s not easy to accomplish.

augustine wine bar, sherman oaks - a rare vintage

Augustine vintage bottles and wines by the glass

Augustine will be fifty to seventy-five wines by the glass. The best thing, Dave, our partner, has this collection of wines he’s been amassing for twenty years. Vintage wines back to the nineteenth century. Lot’s of old things. Lot’s of beautiful things. Incredible places. We’ll do nightly featured wines by the glass from his collection, as well as nightly featured wines by the bottle from the vintage collection. Things like, ’59 Mouton Rothschild. Things like, multiple vintages from the fifties and sixties from all the DRC holdings. The wine bar concept of Covell will be replicated. Wine is the focus. All the service at Covell, as well as all the service at Augustine, is done at the bar. We’re a little different, we’re a hybrid. We’re like when you to to Catalonia, to different regions in Germany, when you’re in Lirac, places in the south of France, this is the concept you tend to see. Owner-operator, behind the bar. It’s their wine program, it’s their friends they’re selling the wine from, and they tend to have some food, because you need food when you’re drinking. It’s conscious. We’re all about the education behind the wine, having some of the best beer you’ve ever had, and being able also to have world-class food with it. It’s more of a wine bar, in its’ actual bones. (Sherman Oaks) is a neighborhood I never thought I would have a foray into. What I realized is, it’s under-served, there’s a lot of sophistication. These people, this is their community, this is their neighborhood. They’ve never had a place that’s cared so much about wine come into their neighborhood. So it’s going to be interesting to see how they interpret it. I’m excited about that.

Partner Dave interjected, "I wish we were open, then I could pour you a nice glass that I had last night. I drank a sixty-six Romanee Saint Vivant. It was great, but it was a bummer, I drank it by myself."

"That’s not a bummer!" exclaimed Matthew.

Dave continued, "I like to share. And I’m not going to drink more than half a bottle by myself, ever. And I know that tonight, it’s not going to be as good. You know, it had its’ magic moment last night. The good thing is, we probably have about ten bottles of that left!"

Your Los Angeles wine experiences await:

Augustine Wine Bar - Now Open - 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423

Bar Covell - 4628 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027