Investing In Wine - Lessons From 1990 Bordeaux

Spring 1991, the time of Bordeaux's en primeur, or futures market, was a particularly good time to invest in potentially outstanding wine. After the multiple renowned and abundant vintages of the eighties flooded the market, the 1990 vintage was rumored to be troubled. There was the chaos of an economic downturn, and a war involving the United States, home to a large group of consumers of top Bordeaux, was in the works. These factors brought about a subtle reduction in Bordeaux futures prices, with first growths available in the fifty-dollar range. (approximately $90 today)

From Berry Bros. & Rudd, London

At the time, I was just determining that I would become a regular wine consumer, and felt an eagerness to experience some of these legendary big names. Nonetheless, the idea of spending $50 for a bottle of wine, much less a case of it, that I would not possess or taste for two years was outlandish. In hindsight, it would have been a worth waiting for. Twenty-four years later, the vintage is considered very good and still going strong. Futures prices have continued to escalate, even though many years have produced lesser rated wines. 2013 futures prices for comparison, with various economic impacts driving prices down, were still four to five times the 1990 vintage's inflation-adjusted prices, for what has been characterized as an "unexciting" vintage. 

If I knew then what I know now, I might have recognized the opportunity to acquire a selection of the great names worthy of cellaring, and searched out the best of the second through fifth growth wines that were offered for much less. Maybe I would have accumulated a vast wine portfolio. Or, I could have sat my tastes and expectations at such a level of snobbery that I priced myself out of the joys of regular exploration. I am not an investor when it comes wine. Had I paid the price, I would certainly have drank all of the 1990s well before their estimated primes, and loved every drop. If you were willing to buy and wait on the 1990 Bordeaux, you would now hold a nice asset for your money. 

I purchase wine with the intent to drink it relatively soon, becoming impatient with wines I have held for more than a few years. Still, I recommend remaining alert for the opportunity to taste or purchase big deal wines at what you consider to be bargain prices. If you like a wine enough, or the cost is especially tolerable, buy as much as you can afford! Perhaps you can drink now and save for someday. Whichever side of the investment conversation you may be on, the key factor is your enjoyment of the wine experiences you collect. 

Wine Tasting By The Glass - Stonehorse Cafe

A restaurant with a strong wine program can provide the setting for a by the glass wine tasting, and potentially turn you onto your next go-to bottle. Recently at Stonehorse Cafe, three of us shared the following wines and observations.

Cultivar Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 - This was the unanimous favorite. Very dark and powerful, with spicy sweet finish, and requisite vanilla note. $28 (retail)

Coppo L'avvocata Barbera d'Asti 2012 - My top pick, but I'm a Barbera fan. Red fruits and a spicy effervescence. $14

Scarpetta Barbera del Monferrato 2012 - We all agreed on this for our bottle with lunch. Fruity, though darker, with earthiness. $16

Telmo Rodriguez LZ Vinedos de Lanziego Tempranillo 2011 - Jammy with smoke. Very pleasant and lengthy. Only one of us was a fan. $18

Recuerdo Malbec 2012 - Full of dark berries and currant, a little grassy. $16

Chateau La Hase Bordeaux Blend 2012 - Very mild, suffering against the bigger and fruitier opponents. It had no chance in this lineup. $14

Tasting several wines the glass can be an informative and fun social experience, and our impromptu session led us to a few bottles to seek out for the full experience. Take advantage of your dining out opportunities to experiment, and find the next big wine on your list. 

Wine By The Glass - Fast And Affordable Discovery

The expanding number of quality wines should mean you always drink the right wine for you. But you also enjoy exploring new wines, leading to hits and misses, and eventually the supply of any particular wine runs out. How do you discover new favorites without spending excessively on bottles of wine you don't like?

Fortunately, there are shortcuts to greater exploration at lesser costs. When dining out, more restaurants are offering tasting flights, made up of several small pours of wine, usually with a theme based on grape or style. Predetermined flights, if organized by a knowledgeable wine professional, are the fastest ways to try a broad variety of wines. Simply pick your theme and go. However, the wines offered are often dramatically diverse, which may or may not be helpful to your tasting strategy. 

With some forethought, ordering wines by the glass is an easy way to produce your own personal mini-tasting. You'll be way ahead if you walk into the restaurant with an idea of the kind of wines you want, and there is a good chance that the wine list is available online for your perusal in advance. You can start off by always asking for "just a taste" of a couple of the wines, which may be all that you need to form strong opinions. You will find some servers that are surprisingly generous. Encourage everyone to order a different glass, switching frequently if there are additional rounds. If you are comfortable, further increase the sample size by sharing sips of different wines with others in your party. Between initial tastes, and a couple of glasses each, you will have quickly experienced a thorough tasting. 

Comparing several wines side by side in a relatively short time frame will help you make confident decisions. One of the wines was the clear standout. Another complimented your seafood dish nicely. Your companion liked the French wine, which surprised you. If you notice you always prefer the first wine of the tasting, try repeating the combination of wines on another occasion, but reverse the order. This information leads to savings when it is time to buy wine by the bottle. Finer details are promptly forgotten, so save them for later by making brief notes of your significant observations.  

You will pay higher than bottle price for wines by the glass. But if your goal is affordable volume tasting for ease of future decision-making, it is a worthwhile investment on the path to drinking what you like. 

Wine, Health, And You

If you're contemplating healthy lifestyle adjustments, and the part that wine may or may not play in them, don't allow commonly accepted blanket statements on the matter to suffice. Here are two brief but thorough articles on wine and health that shine a spotlight on the broad range of variables and scientific opinions for consideration on an individual basis.

Are You Drinking Too Much? The Myth Of Moderation - from Katie Kelly Bell

Alcohol, Wine, And Vascular Diseases: An Abundance Of Paradoxes - from Dr. Arthur Klatsky, via University of California, Davis

Wines Of The Year

The best times with wine involve people, places, and excellent service experiences. Here are my top wines from 2014, with the events surrounding them. 

1. Gehricke Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - This is a fabulous first production, with earthy leather, red berries, and some spice. I found it at the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits wine tasting event in Tulsa. $35
2. Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 - The 40th Anniversary edition is powerfully dark, velvety, and lasts seemingly forever. Fearing's Restaurant in Dallas offered it to me first. $60
3. JL Chave Mon Coer Cotes-du-Rhone 2011 - Thanks to Master Sommelier Craig Collins and Arro in Austin for the introduction to this value Rhone. $19
4. Brooks Bois Joli Riesling 2012 - This was my favorite find on a tasting tour of Oregon. Lots of citrus and just enough sweetness. Brooks is very generous, and they have a touching film about winemaking you should see: American Wine Story. $24
5. Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges 2009 - Affordable Burgundy acquired at a wine lover's paradise, Brown Derby of Springfield, Missouri. $55

Your Big (Wine) Data

Shiraz tasting notes from a fledgling wine man

Big data refers to collections of information so vast that it requires extreme effort to narrow analysis to affordable and predictable metrics for business. This can apply to wine, as in order to discover and truly drink what you like, you will need to try a full range of red, white, and sparkling wines. This can quickly become an expensive and complicated proposition, so it is critical to your bank account and happiness to have guiding parameters that you know will help you make better choices.

By making brief, detailed notes of all your tastings, you will curate sufficient information for a personal profile of wines that are right for you. Note which wines made from different grapes, regions, countries, and years stand out to you. Also what wines you like with certain foods, or without food. Time of day and temperature can come into play. It's important to track what you dislike. Wines differ from year to year, sometimes significantly. Also, as your experiences progress, your tastes may change, and you'll continuously reset the bar for what is impressive. So never stop accumulating data.

You can see how this can get out of hand. So what are the most important things to record? That, too, is up to you, but like mainstream big data, it initially helps to limit your collection efforts. Focus on a few of your favorite wines and their specific characteristics, and take notes until you have enough depth to see clear trends in your preferences. Then, expand your statistics to your liking to assist with decision making. 

Your big wine data will make drinking what you like, with certainty, immediately easier, and you'll have the basis for further experimentation in a broader spectrum of wines. 

Post-Holiday Wine Shopping On A Budget

If your wine budget is short, here's an international mixed case of available and affordable bottles to enjoy while you replenish your savings:

• Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon - $16
• The Black Chook McLaren Vale Shiraz - $18
• Tommasi Valpolicella Rafael - $17
• Charles Smith Wines The Velvet Devil Merlot - $15
• Silvertop Malbec - $10
• M. Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone Belleruche - $15
• Michael Pozzan Wines Annabella Carneros Pinot Noir - $15
• Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay - $14
• Gruet Winery Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10
• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - $18
• Bodega Del Abad Dom Bueno Godello - $15
• Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett - $19

Champagne Dreams Are Not Restricted To December

If you're going to drink Champagne, December is the time you're most likely to do it. Three times more bubbly is sold this month than any other throughout the year. While we cannot all be like Winston Churchill, I for one, enjoy Champagne year-round. However, I have regular conversations with those who do not care for the wine, or who have the impression that finer Champagne is only for an elite class.

I often attempt to persuade someone that expresses dislike for Champagne that they have not experienced good Champagne. Take time to learn the basics to help you choose the right bubbles for you, like the different styles of Champagne. I enjoyed the advice in this interview with famed Sommelier Aldo Sohm. There is great diversity in sparkling flavor and feel.

Regarding the air of upper class, it's just another wine, people. Like any, there are numerous big names and three-figure price tags, and better bottles will cost fifty-dollars-plus. If you can afford the Doms and Cristals, they're an elevated experience. But the volume of choices in wine, including cost, is not to the exclusion of bubbles. There is a generous supply of sparking wine in all styles for under twenty dollars, and excellent non vintage Champagnes can be found in the thirty-dollar price range. 

With the selection of good wine available today, there should be a Champagne or sparking wine for you, maybe even one you will enjoy on a regular basis. You just might have to try several different styles and labels before you find it. Wait, is that a problem? 

Here are some personal picks:

• Pol Roger Brut Reserve - $65
• Gosset Grande Reserve Brut - $50
• Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs - $29
• Toad Hollow Amplexus Cremant Brut - $18
• Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10

Do you drink Champagne outside of events and special occasions?

Sold Out - When You Can't Find Your Favorite Wine

You've worked your wine buying strategy, tasted countless wines, and discovered a standout. You've bought the preferred bottle numerous times, but now the rack at your wine store is empty. The helpful staff searches, but the report comes back that it is no longer available. You check inventory at nearby stores, and even online, but it's all gone. You remember that new vintage of the same wine is in-stock, so you give it a try, but it's...different. Not bad, just not what the previous year was. 

With wines produced in limited quantities, this scenario can be expected. But do not despair! With so many choices available, there is a new favorite, quite possibly a better one, waiting to be discovered.

For example, I personally enjoy Carneros Pinot Noirs. In a few years time, as availability of my chosen wines have dried up, I have explored my way through a series of five go-to bottles from four producers. I would be excited to find one of the older wines, but I am just as satisfied with the current offerings.

what to do

Think about trying something geographically similar, a label from the same area and year as your favored wine. Or, move into wines made from the same grape in another region or country. Your trusted wine store representative will be glad to help with suggestions. 

Continue exercising your tasting strategy, and you'll soon find new wines to rave about.

Wine PG - Children and Alcohol

At the time of year when family gatherings are most prevalent, the question arrises of whether drinking with your children is an acceptable or potentially disastrous concept. I recall my Grandad sipping Bourbon and Coke on such occasions, the only times I witnessed any evidence that he drank. I was ten the first time he offered me a very small version of such a beverage, which I cautiously accepted. The early parameters of alcohol consumption became set in my mind, intentionally or not. Drinking was for family and celebration, and never to excess.

Family attitudes and examples with alcohol can have positive impact. This is not encouragement or endorsement of underage or excessive consumption of alcohol. I'm not talking about providing alcohol for a teen party. If the parents are going to drink, It makes sense that if drinking is done with disciplined moderation, and they openly educate their children on potential dangers as well as safe use of alcohol, those children will be better prepared to act responsibly with alcohol.

In the United States, while firmly outlawing adults providing alcohol to underage drinkers who are not their children, most states provide legal exceptions that allow children of the parent to drink if the parent is present, in private settings. In Europe, legal drinking ages are lower, and acceptance of young drinkers is widespread, especially when accompanied by parents. Also of interest, alcohol in European countries is often regarded and consumed as a food product, rather than an exotic and evil intoxicant. This observance can make a big difference in a youthful temperament. Advanced Sommelier Paul Botamer said at his home, he gives his teenage daughter, "just a little sip, so she knows there’s nothing mysterious going on.” I have shared tastes of beverages with my teenage children, who likely know more about the subject than they care to. The presentation from parents to children of what alcohol is, represents, and how it can be properly appreciated can be a powerful influence. 

Studies and opinions support both sides of the drinking with family argument. Caution must be exercised, of course, for every unique individual and event. Due to availability and aggressive marketing, children will learn about alcohol in one way or another, and probably at a younger age than we typically imagine. Whether or not samples are included, a balanced schooling by parents, where alcohol is neither a dark secret nor consumed to an extreme, might prove most effective.

Las Vegas Wine, Service, and Dining Winners

Wine bar lineup at Due Forni

After researching dozens of restaurants and trying thirteen, here are my top Vegas recommendations.

Wine

1. Giordanino Teresio Colline Saluzzesi Saluces Nebbiolo 2006 at Due Forni Pizza and Wine - Dry and leathery, with red berries and hints of mint. A nice surprise by the glass. A select list of predominantly Italian varietals to compliment the menu.
2. Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010 at db Brasserie - Click for my reviews
3. Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2009 at Chada Thai and Wine - Dry minerals with grapefruit largesse and more citrus. Sweet on its own but a perfect match with spicy Thai. A broad list beginning with Rieslings, but encompassing the world of wine at great prices.
4. Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV at db Brasserie
5. Fabricca di San Martino Arcipressi 2012 at Chada Thai and Wine - A solid drink-now Tuscan blend, juicy with a medium finish.

Service

1. db Brasserie - A thoroughly satisfying experience, from bar to table, led by Head Sommelier Devin Zendel. See my review here.
2. Bouchon Bistro - Thomas Keller's spot on the strip. They gladly seated my party fifteen minutes before lunch closed, and gave us full attention until well after. Also, the head server offered me coffee to go, a personal difference maker in service.
3. Due Forni Pizza and Wine - West toward Red Rock Canyon, I was thrilled by the small but diverse Italian wine list and my server's constant attention. Management here clearly has serious Italian wine fans in mind.
4. Chada Thai and Wine - Also off the path, small and easy to miss, but don't! Outstanding food with the best value wine list in Vegas awaits. Sommelier and chef Bank Atcharawan has built a wine and food experience around his love for Riesling, but the entire list is of high-quality picks and best-value prices. Servers on Thanksgiving were attentive and helpful with food and wine menus, and happy to secure us a cab.
5. Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Not a destination, but if spending time at Mandalay Bay, a go-to option, 24/7. I received pleasant and fast service during visits at all times of the day, whether picking up coffee, breakfast at the bar, or table service. 

Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro

Food

1. Steak Frites at db Brasserie - Perfectly cooked flat iron, and a bargain on the Prix Fixe menu. Click for my review.
2. Spicy Herbs Spring Rolls at Chada Thai and Wine - Fresh and crisp, with ginger, lime, mint, and spicy for sure. 
3. Duck Panang at Chada Thai and Wine - Crispy duck with lime and a delicious spicy Panang sauce.
4. Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro - Gourmet corned beef hash with eggs and toast.
5. NY Style Pastrami at Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Thick cut and tender with a spicy mustard. I didn't miss cheese at all.

Best cocktail

French 75 at Bouchon Bistro

The best in wine and service are often found in the same place, and dining under the bright lights of Vegas is no exception. It was clear which restaurants give priority to their wine program, and to service and training. 

Where are your favorite places to wine and dine in Las Vegas?

Before You Travel, Where's The Wine?

As a systematic consumer, I do excessive amounts of research to ensure that my experiences are satisfying. This is especially the case before traveling, and is work I consider critical to happiness and well worth the effort. Here are my best practices for uncovering the outstanding before you hit the road.

Search best of...

Most cities have a dominant magazine and entertainment newspaper, both of which publish annual Best Of lists, with fairly thorough and specific dining and drinking reviews. Also scan newspaper food and wine sections and national publications like Food and Wine or Travel and Leisure that focus on outstanding experiences. Examine these, giving considerable attention to the publications' choices, and less to the readers' votes. Look for your personal keywords. (Mine are Fine Dining, Sommeliers, Wine, Service, and Servers) When you find an interesting target, go to the web site, give it a once over, and save it in a list of destinations for that city if it passes the eye test. 

The next search is for local, high-traffic blogs about food and wine in the city. On blogs by respectable writers, you are likely to find more choices, but this is primarily for in-depth information, and confirmation of your interest in your initial list of options. You will also learn of news and events that you may want to take into consideration for your travel itinerary.

Social-driven sites like Urban Spoon, Eater, Yelp, and Trip Advisor can deliver additional layers of confirmation. This is chiefly visual, through the volumes of non-staged photographs posted by diners. Low ratings on these sites are a red flag for me, leading to further scrutiny of a potential choice, while high ratings and extreme comments are taken with a grain of salt.

Narrow the field

Once you compile a satisfactory list of alternatives, make closer inspections of the chosen few. Which ones have a version of your favorite dish, an acclaimed wine list, or an intriguing new adventure? Does the wine list have a good selection with descriptions and years, not to mention reasonable prices? View the "about" and staff pages, looking for indications that the restaurant caters to your style and preferences. Contemplate the area surrounding the establishment, it's convenience to your location, dress, (yes, still) and hours of operation.

If you're involving others in the dining decisions, now is the time to share the short list with your traveling companions. I provide a list of links with brief notes about my findings when asking for opinions. 

Even if you have made your decisions by now, go ahead and look at social media. Many restaurants, chefs, and sommeliers are active socially, and eager to connect and share. There are often valuable pieces of information, such as limited offers or special events, that are delivered exclusively via social. 

take note

So you have started early, made reservations for potentially great dining, and built up your anticipation. Always do a last-minute review for breaking news or changes at the restaurants. It is disappointing to realize too late that the entree you were excited to try went out with last season's menu, that the restaurant is closed for vacation, or closed. While traveling, make notes about your meals, beverages, and service, however brief. You will begin to notice your own trends, your personal Big Wine and Food Data, and also the correlation between good wine and excellent service.

Pre-travel research takes time, but pays off with fulfilling wining and dining. Wherever your destination, delve into the wealth of information that is readily available, and make every meal an enjoyable experience.

The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel of DB Brasserie

Devin Zendel is an Advanced Sommelier and Head Sommelier at db Brasserie in Las Vegas. For the past fifteen years, he has served at acclaimed Vegas restaurants including Wolfgang Puck, Carnevino, and Eiffel Tower Restaurant. Before a recent dinner, he shared some of his experiences with wine, and insightful comments about the demanding lifestyle required to succeed as a top wine professional in an extremely competitive city.

Devin Zendel pours "Daniel" Brut at db Brasserie

What drew you to wine and led to wine as a career?

"My mother and aunt drank wine daily while I was growing up. I was young, drinking terrible beer, then I had a Napa Sauv Blanc that was an eye-opening experience for me. I was working at Puck as a server, and became fascinated with the world of wine. You learn how big wine is, and that it is never ending."

"I get to drink wine all the time, and business travel became a pleasure. I can design a floor plan, or I can taste five Burgundies." 

What is it like working for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas?

"Previously I had been a floor Somm. db Brasserie is a chance for the total package. There is an old school mentality here. The most important thing is still food service and the total guest experience. The staff is inspired, impassioned. It stands out among the mostly union restaurants on the Strip." 

"Coaching the staff on by the glass knowledge is critical. We make sure they taste any new wines, give them technical sheets so that they know all the wines, and role play with wine presentation. Food as well. We are big on their continuing education, and I plan for full, around the world training as the restaurant and staff grow." 

"Vegas is very competitive, with lots of movement among somms. A friend of mine said one year in Vegas is like three years in (another large city). But it's nice, too. There are lots of events and people to meet. You don't want to leave the events, even though it's late and you're going to pay for it early in the morning, because there are so many more people to meet." 

"It's a tough profession to get started in. You kind of have to be the guy in the corner with the "Will Work for Wine" sign. It's different now. The day of the old stuffy sommelier in a tuxedo, with only a couple of guys doing it, is over. Even before the documentary, it was changing, with the somms being the coolest people in the restaurant. Since the documentary, the Court says applications are up forty-percent in the last two years. Now, if you're not established, you have even more competition. No one will pay you at the start, and it's hard to break into. Without Certified or Advanced credentials, some jobs won't even interview you. It's a necessity."

How is the quest for Master Sommelier going?

"I've passed theory, which is good, because that is all textbooks and studying, and no life. They said I was close on service last time. Service isn't really about service. It's about thoughtlessly, flawlessly, executing perfect service. There's cutting the foil perfectly, pouring the wine perfectly, but it's not about that. All of that just happens. In my last service exam, they asked me about (a particular) Barbaresco. But it's not a Barbaresco, it's a Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba. Then they asked if (winery) makes any other wines. All of this conversation was going on while I was doing the other things. And I was on the clock. It's about theory. MS is a way of life, and you don't pass unless you live it. We're the weirdoes sneaking champagne in a plastic bottle into a movie. It's always about the wine you're drinking." 

"It's taxing. You are always on when you're on the floor. I love working in the restaurant, interacting with tables, but I can see as you get older wanting to get off the floor. It's hard labor. I've had to ice my back, or wonder why my elbow is sore. There are financial considerations, perks and other opportunities once you become a Master. You can be an author, a speaker, a teacher. I think about when I was just getting started, in a big room full of people working on Certified. Once you're a Master you still have to earn teaching privileges in the Court. But to be the one teaching the room full of candidates, that sounds pretty amazing." 

Read about my excellent wine and service experience with Devin and db Brasserie here.

db Brasserie, Las Vegas - Wine and Service Experience

The first page of the wine list at db Brasserie

db Brasserie, the latest concept from French American icon Daniel Boulud, located in the Venetian, Las Vegas, and surrounded by brands from his celebrity chef contemporaries, still finds ways to stand out among wine and service experiences.

My visit occurred the day before Thanksgiving, with heavy activity before the holiday, and amidst the early Black Friday shopping frenzy. Service began long before my meal, as I happened by the restaurant several hours before my reservation. I requested a particular style of booth, which was accommodated promptly. I spent time at the bar during the daily happy hour, where several wines, beers, and craft cocktails were promoted. The green water glasses call attention to the decor, which are further highlighted by touches of green in the various food presentations. The bar is smaller, but gives the feeling of being larger than it is. I was drawn to the display of glassware by Stolzle, and the lineup of hand-labled cocktail ingredients. Large screen televisions are above the bar, and visible throughout many parts of the restaurant. I enjoyed a Lucien Albrecht Cremant de-Alsace Brute Blanc De Blancs NV, which was crispy and refreshing with apple and citrus.

Seating was immediate, in the requested booth with a full view of the restaurant. The lead server made introductions and delivered food and wine menus within seconds. Shortly thereafter, Head Sommelier Devin Zendel greeted the table with Champagne flutes, and announced, "I am going to pour you something." He returned with a bottle of Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV, and filled the glasses around the table. The Daniel, specifically chosen by the restaurant group, was delicious, with citrus and striking bread dough flavors. I savored the brut while discussing the menu and wine options. The wine list offers an extensive selection of French alongside American bottles, with a broad price range. I asked for Devin's recommendations, hoping to find a new French favorite. He pointed out a couple of wines based on our desired styles, including the Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010. He spoke of the wine's predominant mourvedre, and how Tempier was the leading producer of wines from this grape and the Bandol appellation. He opened, checked, and decanted the wine at a station within eyesight before presenting it to the table. It was delightfully elegant and long-lasting. Still young and a full of potential, it had leather and floral aromas with dark berries. It also paired nicely with the dinner entrees.

The meal began with puffy Gouda bread treats, compliments of the chef. The Tunisian Lamb came as two chops, with lamb sausage, and lemony spinach. The Yankee, one of three signature DB NY Burgers offered, was impressive even with the hype. Coq Au Vin from the Prix Fixe menu was tender, in a very red wine preparation with mushrooms and hints of bacon. The star, though, of db Brasserie and my entire Las Vegas dining tour, was the Steak Frites, also from the Prix Fixe menu. A generously cut flat iron steak, with a spicy-seasoned crust, cooked to the perfect medium rare temperature. It was one of the top steaks in my considerable beefeating history. To finish the meal, the table shared excellent desserts, a citrusy Panna Cotta, and Black and White Fondant, a flourless chocolate cake with white chocolate ganache and vanilla gelato.

Overall service was fast acting, efficient, and friendly. Almost nothing could be criticized, extremely rare for me at a full dining event. The worst I can say is that I poured the wine once. With the Head Sommelier taking the lead at tableside, I felt completely cared for, and somewhat special. Devin knew just where to go in style and price for wine selection. I was glad to see contemporary, yet still appropriate, glassware in play, and enjoyed the sight of the wine being opened and prepared just so at a dedicated area separate from the table. Activity by the team of servers was understated, subtly consistent and thorough, without making too big a show of things or interrupting by their presence. All requests in seating and food preparation were satisfied, and knowledgeable answers to all questions were provided. In the bar, five bartenders and servers buzzed about, displaying comfortable teamwork and communication. It was a pleasant, smooth running operation.

db Brasserie, open only seven months in ultra-competitive Las Vegas, was a highlight of my experiences, and appears on its way to taking the lead in Vegas wine and fine dining. 

Read my conversation with Head Sommelier Devin Zendel here.

The Gift Of Wine

I am frequently asked what wines make good gifts. I find that most any wine is a gift that is welcomed at most any time, but the month of December has far and away the most wine sales. If you plan to give wine, but find making a choice of which wine to give perplexing, here are ten ideas to assist and make your shopping experience fun. 

1. "I love this wine" - Do you know the wines your recipient enjoys most? It doesn't get easier than giving what they like. Even if your budget is limited, your local wine shop can guide you to an acceptable, similar choice.
2. What's on the menu? - If there is a meal with your gift giving occasion, an internet search will turn up solid suggestions of wine styles to pair with it. 
3. Consider the setting - Is it topical, like exploring wines of New Zealand, or an 80s Punk Rock party? Are the hosts wine connoisseurs, or just getting started? Indoor or outdoor? Think about what feels right for the theme, location, and timing.  
4. Introduce something new - Help someone expand their wine appreciation. Someone that likes California Merlot may like a French version, or be ready to move into red blends. If you're giving wine to someone that typically drinks reds, try out a lighter white like a European Pinot Grigio. Or, if you don't know what is preferred, offer your favorite wine find. 
5. A significant year - Choose a year that is meaningful to the recipient, or to the wine. Give a bottle from their anniversary year, or a wine from one of those highly-acclaimed vintages in their favorite wine region.  
6. A/B Testing - Most people will enjoy a gift of wine, but two bottles will make you really popular. Red and white...California vs Oregon...New world or old world...$10 or $20? (or $50, or...) The choices are many, and becoming greater. 
7. Red White and Bubbly - Simply a three-pack of your recommended wines of each style. A generous tasting experience that extends the memory of your gift as the wines are savored at different times.
8. Impressive - For a special gift for the right person, the most prominent and acclaimed names and vintages of the world are readily available. You will certainly pay a correspondingly remarkable price for more renowned names or years. But if you want to blow someone's mind, your search will yield mind-blowing opportunities, and with some diligence, you will likely find "bargains" in this territory from reliable retail sources.  
9. Wine they can't buy - An elevated version of number eight. You might already have a prize wine you're willing to part with, which makes it a truly personal gift. Your local wine shop might have a back room with some exclusive bottles, or know the distributors that do. Restaurants are also possible sources. Outside of a private stash, this one is all about connections.
10. Accessorize - If you just can't choose a wine, give a practical gift to help enjoy other wines. From a double-hinged wine bottle opener, to the right shaped glasses for their favorite wine, wine equipment will be a useful and ongoing reminder of your thoughtfulness.

Enjoy a little research and creativity for maximum wine gifting happiness. 

Red Wines That Are Primo!

Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:

Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35

Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37

Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29

Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19

Write It Down

Everyone has enjoyed an impressive wine, and later lapsed on the details. "It was...red...really good" A critical component to your wine buying strategy that is frequently forgotten is the recording of your personal tasting notes. But this sounds like work, and wine is for fun. Here is why you want to invest time in note taking about the wines you taste, and how this will increase your enjoyment.

"I wish I could remember that Sancerre we had in..." 

Note taking is critical because no opinion of a wine is as meaningful as your opinion. If you plan to drink and share wine experiences, shouldn't they be built around the wines you like most? Tasting notes will help insure that this is the case. Academic and scientific research on the effects of note taking is bountiful, and agrees that notes assist with long-term retention and better decision-making. If you think, "I'm not a student", you should reconsider. The appreciation of wine is an unceasing education, whether you are taking part-time classes, or seeking a PHD, and the fields of study are expanding with so many choices available. 

All Of It

Note taking is forgotten as a result of wine experiences often belonging to one of those "in the moment" scenarios. Which is unfortunate, as wine is often a catalyst or contributor to life's most memorable and joyous events. Take some time, however brief, to describe the outstanding details of the wines you taste. What you like and don't like, smells, tastes, years, and prices. Document the experience surrounding the wines. Where you were, whom you shared it with, and what you ate at it. Briefly pause to relate it to previous experiences. Is the wine better, a better value, or a distinctively new discovery? More specifics mean faster and accurate recollection for your wine buying activities.

Simple note taking will dramatically improve your remembrance of the memories you've made with wine. Better yet, by saving your unique expressions about the wines you taste, you will quickly become fully equipped to recall or recommend wines that are sure to please. Every time.

Primo White Wine Picks

Here are white wines that stood out at a recent tasting. Thanks to my friends at Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits for a great event. 

Anne Amie Vineyards Cuvee A Muller-Thurgau 2012 - Something really different from Oregon, here. A huge bouquet of flowers and variety of citrus. Very few winemakers are using this grape in the United States. $17

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2011 - Stoney and solid from this consistent favorite. $43

Roederer Estate Brut Rose - Powerful yet smooth bubbles. $35

Hugl-Wimmer Gruner Veltliner 2013 - Power-packed and dry, with citrus flavors that last. $15

The red wine stars from this event will follow next week.

SOMM - The Addictively Emotional Wine Film

I originally saw the documentary film SOMM at a screening before it gained widespread distribution and fame, and was immediately thirsty to see it again. The film follows four Sommeliers as they strive for the ultimate prize of the wine trade, the designation of Master Sommelier. An escalating roller coaster ride of emotion accompanies the narrative of their struggles for greatness. 

Shattering Wine Glasses

Subtle tensions progressively mount for each of the main characters as the story is told. These guys may have been born with senses of taste beyond what is normal, but equally impressive is their passionate determination to earn the elusive Master diploma. You are taken into private settings to witness the full range of sentiments, from happiness to despair. The depth of feeling one can associate with these men as they prepare for the biggest event of their lives is vivid. Especially is this so during the intensive scenes surrounding the MS exam, which maintains a ninety-percent failure rate. The dedication to the craft and devotion to becoming authorities of wine and service exhibited by the candidates is admirable.

"Fresh Cut Garden Hose"

Telling unique stories of individual wines is a primary responsibility for a Sommelier, but developing accurate descriptions can be challenging. And entertaining. You can learn a tremendous amount about wine tasting by observing the Somms as they prepare for the test. But this is not a stuffy or tiresome educational documentary. Absorbing and humorous storytelling further illustrates the scope of near obsession required to advance, and how this affects the candidates, their families, and friends. Festive and touching moments that emerge from following a closely knit group of guys are interwoven throughout the film. Their endearing qualities pleasantly balance and soften the profound anxiety that is apparent. 

Somms as Stars

The vision of a stiff, stodgy, Sommelier of old is dead, driven to the grave in part by SOMM. A younger, enthusiastic, and personable Sommelier is on the scene, more focused on hands-on service and training than glowering in a corner. Undoubtedly, the film has contributed to the dramatic increase in applications received by the Court of Master Sommeliers. While very few of the new breed will achieve Master, or even Advanced status, the positive attention and broadened pool of talent is bound to improve overall wine and restaurant service. Director Jason Wise has given a gift to wine lovers and fine diners beyond his captivating wine documentary.

SOMM will make you laugh, cheer, and possibly bring a tear to your eye. You will feel deep sympathy for the cast, even as you imagine that they must be insane. If you are into wine at all, you will watch Somm again and again. Grab a favorite bottle, and push play.

Have you seen SOMM? What is your favorite scene?

Download SOMM or Buy on DVD 

Wine Buying Strategy

Wine is to be savored, to make a meal into an experience, or for celebration. Why complicate the good times with a term like strategy? With so many choices available, it can be challenging to determine the wines that are right for you. Whether you are desiring to expand into different styles, or just beginning to drink wine regularly, there are benefits to following a basic strategic plan for buying wine.

Drink More Wine

Plan from the beginning to try different wines, and don't be satisfied after tasting only five or ten. I'm talking dozens! Initially, try whites and reds of several different varietals. Be alert to tasting opportunities at restaurants and retailers, and make a habit of asking for tastes of wine by the glass options at restaurants. After you find some standouts, try similar wines from different producers and years. Also try wines made from the same grapes in other countries. As you taste, record each wine and style and what you like or why you dislike them, and keep your notes organized. You will soon have personal big (wine) data and telling trends of your preferences. Determine where you want your wine journey to take you next, and prepare for some homework.  

Due Diligence

Do you want more of your favorites, or to go in another direction? Are you looking for values, or to experiment with some higher-priced options. With a destination in mind, and armed with details of your personal inclinations, take advantage of the vast online resources ready to contribute to your exploration. By following several preferred writers, you will receive an ongoing stream of commentary on all things wine. This is only the beginning, as included will be links to additional related wine talk. Combine these with your own observations, and you can really geek out on wine. But then you may not have time to try the wines. So don't over-saturate. Pick two or six or seventeen authorities, read a few minutes each day, take more notes, and continue your advancement.

Good Is What You Like 

The outstanding opportunity in all these choices is that you will find as many different wines as you desire, that are available, affordable, and delicious! Key to successful wine enjoyment is remembering that you make the rules on what wines are "right" for you. If you like it, then it is right, and you are likely to be surprised at the number of wines that qualify as such. Approach wine with the expectation of tasting in volume that would impress a wine critic. Put some effort into researching and recording your experiences. You will find benefits in confidence, savings, and will always be drinking the right wines.

What is your wine buying strategy? Next week, I will talk more about notes and why you want to write them.