Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine
Dave Danhi has compiled a storied career as an award winning chef of renowned restaurants, including Roxbury Supper Club and Water Grill in Los Angeles. More recently, he created one of the most popular food trucks in Los Angleles, The Grilled Cheese Truck, and built his vision into a one-hundred-million-dollar IPO. I had a conversation about what is next for Dave over wine before his SouthBites presentation at SXSW Interactive.
u.s. Veterans and Military Bases
The Grilled Cheese Truck franchise plan is for the first one-hundred trucks to be run by veterans. Retired General Wesley Clark is signed on to promote the program and recruit veterans. Management of a team, maintenance of a truck, all the operations involved in a restaurant, scheduling of locations, and complying with legal requirements all come into play on a daily basis for a food trucker. Dave feels that the training, skill set, and mentality of qualified military personnel make for a model food truck franchisee. Locations are expected to be easily accessible for military bases, with airports to follow.
Upscale Grilled cheese, With Wine!
In the future, Dave plans for brick and mortar, sit down versions of the Grilled Cheese franchise, which he expects to become hubs of their communities. You might order your custom grilled cheese, then receive assistance with the best wine pairing while you wait for it to be made. A "between fast and fast casual" atmosphere will keep service simple and brisk, while patrons will feel comfortable hanging out or watching big screen televisions. Some screens will feature dedicated live feeds of social interaction, where photos and conversations are shared in real time. Gourmet food and wine in a cool, casual setting.
Who would have thought that a simplest staple like the grilled cheese sandwich could grow from a single food truck into a multi-faceted national brand, complete with a cause. Dave Danhi saw it, and appears up to the task of making it happen. I look forward to, say, a Plain and Simple Melt of sharp cheddar...with Barolo!
Don't Run Out Of Wine - Simple Service
You put time and effort into deciphering a wine list, find the bottle that excites you, wait with anticipation for an extended time, and the server finally reports that the restaurant is out of it. Matthew Kaner names this scenario as a motivator for the "no wine list" concept of Bar Covell. Few occurrences have the ability to crash and burn a dining experience faster and more decisively.
A restaurant verifying available wines before each dining window should be an obvious and increasingly easy task. Wines without sufficient number can be removed from the list, or at the very least the wait staff will be prepared in advance for selections with limited quantities. Wines that do run out can be crossed off the list (or board) to notify staff and patrons, and manage expectations.
Why would management take a chance that you will not order that wine? Simple, consistent inventory management and adjustments, along with courteous communication, will insure the restaurant always has your wine satisfaction in mind.
Chez Nous - Fabulous French Off Sixth Street, Austin
Chez Nous is an intimate French bistro waiting to impress, yet completely unexpected at its address just off Sixth Street in Austin. I enjoyed two late night dining experiences during the managed chaos of SXSW, with an interesting variance in the satisfying service.
Cotes d'agneau Manon
The first visit was on a busy Friday night around ten. When I asked if they featured a good selection of French wines by the glass, the first staff member gave me a puzzled expression, confirmed the wines, and showed me to a table. Another server appeared concerned as I deliberated for several minutes over a glass of wine and salad. Five members of the staff visited my table to check on me throughout the evening, keeping me pleasantly content. About the time I declined anything further, I had a change in plans and decided I would have dessert. A server, having presented the check, appeared impatient and did not come back to the table that night. Nonetheless, I was well cared for as I enjoyed dessert and coffee, and I made plans to return another night for a full meal.
The second visit was on the following Tuesday night at eight, not quite as active in the restaurant. My primary server became the same person that did not return to the table on the previous evening. She recognized and greeted me enthusiastically. I concluded the previous events had been coincidence, as she and the team provided even more attentive and well-rounded service. Teamwork among staff members, which include the three French owners, was smooth and efficient, delivering a classy casual experience.
Profiterolles
Wine choices were many. My first night glass was Lascaux, a dry white blend from Languedoc. For the big meal, a nice Les Galets De Sauveterre Cotes du Rhone 2011. On both nights I had Salade Lyonnaise with a poached egg, the second night with large crumbled lardons. The server recommended Cotes d'agneau Manon, New Zealand lamb chops with a white bean ragou and broccolinis, as well as Entrecôte bearnaise, a ribeye with frites, which were excellent. For dessert, I loved the Profiterolles, two ice cream filled pastry puffs with chocolate sauce. Their "coffee" is a firm, bold Cafe Americano, which I was also thrilled to receive as my coffee to go.
Chez Nous has charming French country and vintage decor, complete with fresh flowers on the tables. A fun and interchangeable team will see to your needs and happiness diligently. The broad and authentic French menu is what Chez Nous is all about, though. It is understandable that they have thrived in such an unlikely location for over three decades, and is a total package that is to be desired.
Chez Nous - 510 Neches Street, Austin, TX 78701
Best Of SXSW Austin Wine Service & Dining
In Austin for the always insane SXSW Interactive, which now includes expansive food and beverage programming, there was not sufficient brain power or time for a proper tasting. Also, as always, I enjoyed a good selection of wine lists and experiences.
Chez Nous wine list
Wine lists
- Carmelo’s
- Chez Nous - Small and fun, encouraging your French experimentation with several by the glass choices.
- Second Bar + Kitchen
- Max's Wine Dive - Good opportunities to try bottles that were opened the day before, but larger pours would be even more attractive.
- Vince Young Steakhouse
Service
- Carmelo’s - Fast, frequent, and everyone is smiling.
- Chez Nous - Service from five people in a small, cozy space. Accommodating and on-point.
- Second Bar + Kitchen - Great from the start, when the hostess noticed the table wobbled and worked on the base until it was balanced.
- Biscuits & Groovy - Service from a food trailer? A great display of anticipation, from what to eat, to where to find coffee around the corner.
- Old Pecan Street Cafe - They were happy to seat and serve us five minutes before close.
Gin & Jam at Second Bar + Kitchen
Dining
- Chez Nous - Lyonnaise salad with bacon, lamb chops with white bean ragu, French wine and service. The Profiterolles dessert is special. Their "coffee" is a bold Americano, even to go.
- Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken - Having dined at multiple locations, this is second only to the Memphis original. Crisp and spicy!
- Biscuits & Groovy - Gloria Gaynor. Johnny Hash. Creative, cool, and delicious.
- Easy Tiger - A fabulous chocolate almond pastry, filled with almond cream in the bake shop for breakfast. The beer garden for later.
- Vince Young Steakhouse - It is difficult to beat a well-stocked bar and prime beef.
Best Cocktail
Gin & Jam at Second Bar + Kitchen
Whiskey Tasting - Vince Young Steakhouse, Austin
Tastings are not always exclusive to wine. Here are tasting notes from a small selection of fine whiskeys I recently enjoyed.
Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye 13 Year - This was beautiful. As would be expected from a label that reads, "From Pappy Van Winkle's Private Stock". Vanilla came through early, with spice and pepper on the finish.
Jefferson's Presidential Select 25 Year - Also delicious, and my favorite of the four. Maple and wood surrounded spices. Smooth.
Willett Family Estate Bottled Rye 6 Year - A great contrast of sweet and spicy, all in one.
Colonel E. H. Taylor Small Batch - The lightest of the four, with sweetness and buttery smoothness.
The bar at Vince Young Steakhouse is massive, with a selection of wine, spirits, and craft beers to match! They were completely understaffed for my dinner experience during SXSW, but the bar alone is enough to bring me back for another try.
Vince Young Steakhouse - 301 San Jacinto, Austin, TX 78701
Wine Drinking 101: Try More Wines
At a recent social hour, an entrepreneur I was speaking with said, “I need to find a way to learn more about wine so that when I order in a restaurant I don’t feel like an idiot.” He was pondering what books to read, or if he should enroll in a wine course. I encouraged him to simply try more wines. Lots more wines.
Tasting enough wine so that you know for certain that you have found wines you truly like to drink is key to your wine drinking happiness. A broad range of tastings is the foundation of your learning experiences, from which you fine-tune personal preferences. You are sure to drink some wines you wish you had not, but do not be discouraged. If the wine you had with dinner is not something you would immediately be happy to drink again, move on and try another. With a growing abundance of fine choices, average wine, according to your personal opinion, simply will not do.
For the most educational approach to wine drinking, tasting in volume is the first class. And continuing education is required!
Best of Santa Fe - Wine Service and Dining
Braised Lamb Osso Bucco at The Compound
A brief, but satisfying, weekend wine and dining adventure.
Wine
This trip was not focused on wine discovery, but I still found time for a few treats:
- Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2008 at The Compound
- Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX 1983 at The Compound
- Paolo Scavino Barbera D'Alba 2010 at Izanami
Service
- Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves - Kaz, Japanese Customer Service Manager, (their title) was everywhere. At the restaurant. At the spa check-in. Around the spa grounds. Always checking on me personally, attentively. Delivering messages between spouses creatively. My Izanami waitress was similarly attentive, taking extra time to guide me through a sake tasting and explaining the food items, like the Kinpira Gobo below.
- The Compound - Alex and his team of five took very good care of us from start to finish. He was particularly helpful with wine selection, finding out our desires and recommending the wine that was drinking best at the time, and cheapest, of three bottles in consideration.
Kinpira Gobo at Izanami
Food
- The Compound - I tasted twelve food items, from Tuna Tartare to a chocolate snowball treat, and all were delightful in their own ways. Braised Lamb Osso Bucco with wild mushroom risotto and garlic chips was a replacement (for veal) feature that stood out.
- Smothered Breakfast Burrito at Tune-Up Cafe - Roasted and smoky the green chile sauce would have been enjoyable as a soup, but performed well over the bacon, egg, and potato burrito.
- Kinpira Gobo at Izanami - My surprise of the trip, with slivers of burdock root, and carrot, in sesame soy dressing. Light, simple, and startlingly therapeutic to nibble at with chopsticks.
- Green Chile Breakfast Burrito at The Anasazi Restaurant and Bar
Best cocktail
Blood Orange Margarita at Fuego Restaurant
Brian McClintic, Master Sommelier And Much More
Master Sommelier. Vallin winemaker. SOMM Film Star. Les Marchands Wine Bar owner. Brian McClintic shared some of his experiences from all aspects of his busy schedule.
What was it like having a camera in your face while studying for the master sommelier exam?
I think it impacted me positively. The Master Sommelier test is very social. The tasting is with a panel. Service is obviously social. The theory test is oral. You’re walking around with so much information in your head, a lot of people become socially awkward. The film forced me to come out of my shell, to lighten up and stay loose, and be the best version of myself. I was able to stay outside myself, to not get lost in myself.
how do you drink your way through a calendar packed with wine projects?
I cry myself to sleep every night?! Really, they just flow into each other. We were already making wine, and it all happened at once after the movie in a whirlwind. It’s ironic, wine is to celebrate, it’s social. It’s not like coffee, not a shot of espresso and go about your day. With wine we take our time. My day is not like that. Imagine if your job was eating just your favorite food. Now imagine if I asked you to start eating it twice a day. And you love steak. You wouldn’t be able to do that very long, not without throwing a salad in. I’m tasting wines constantly. Your palate can only take so much. But I love what I do. I remind myself at the end of the day that it’s just wine.
What wines were difference-makers for you?
As for ah-ha wines, there was never one, but there were several stages along the way. I was working at a steakhouse, and it was all about Napa Cab. From five to five-hundred-dollars. That’s where I learned to taste the difference. But then a guest would ask about our tiny French section, and I would think, “Bordeaux, is that a grape or a section? How do you pronounce these things?” So one night I splurged. I bought an eighty-five Pomerol, and took it to a friend who would know, and it was like, “Oh!” The smells and tastes were like nothing I knew. That was my new to old world intro. At a certain point you experience Burgundy, and at first you think, “It’s thin and soft, it smells light. Why is everyone going crazy for this?” I was working at the Little Nell in Aspen, and had my first Grand Cru Burgundy. That was when I got Burgundy. After that, going back to Napa Cab...they seemed unctuous, over the top. If it were just me, ninety-percent of what I drink would be whites.
what do people need to know about santa barbara wine?
Oh, I could talk forever. So there’s the new world of wine, it’s still in it’s infancy. In the old world, monks have been making wine over the course of centuries. Santa Barbara was only planted in seventy-one, so it’s very young. All of California, really, are like infants playing in a sandbox. Just highly gifted, intelligent infants. It’s the old world we learn from and give credit to, and we’ve come far very quickly. But do we know what grows best where? No, not until we know what is best viticulturally. Santa Barbara is a geographic anomaly. San Francisco area is great, cellar temperature year-round. Santa Barbara has the coolest, longest growing season in the valley. It allows us to plant grapes that ripen, but grow over a longer period of time. But it’s branded for tourism. You say “Napa” or “Sonoma” you immediately think wine. You say “Paso Robles”, you think wine. You say “Santa Barbara”, you think palm trees, sun, beaches, and bikinis, not wine. Everyone asks, “How can we change it?” I say, “Don’t! Stay out of the spotlight while we figure it out.” Maybe Gruner Veltliner is perfect for growing, but Pinot Noir is the most marketable. Now there are progressive growers who choose to plant what’s best, not what is most marketable. There are makers who want to work with Gruner Veltliner and others like it. And there are drinkers who want to try Gruner Veltliner, that are more open than ever. I like to say Santa Barbara has unlimited potential.
On winemaking and service
Vallin was not started to be a money-maker. It was to keep four guys connected together. But once we started, we decided, “OK, we’re going to do some serious wine.” Lots of somms make wine, put juice in a bottle, put a label on it, we’re not doing that. We said, “So Syrah is not the most marketable wine. Syrah is a world-class grape, let’s get behind it.” Northern Rhone is the heart of Syrah, and we made it our focal point. We were in Burgundy, drinking Jamet Cote Rotie. Let that sink in. Vallin was on the label, we liked how it looked on the label. We researched and found it was a street name, then went further and found it was actually a surname. Vallin means valley dwellers, from people that originally settled the Rhone valley. We said, “That’s cool and simple, let’s go with it.” It’s exciting to see three years later, we sold out of the ‘twelve, and are just waiting for the ‘thirteen in the barrel to be ready to bottle.
Brian exams the well-stocked shelves at Les Marchands
Service for a sommelier is different than any other service. The court teaches specific standards of service, so that if the Queen of England asks you to do a wine service, you could deliver that. It’s very technically precise. With staff, it’s different. You take the clientele, the concept, into account. Les Marchands is not buttoned-up like formal fine dining. We’re very warm and approachable, and technically proficient. Usually it is one of these, but not both. This is without being stuffy or pretentious. We size up each guest. We tailor service to each guest, it’s all about how we meet them where they are. Michael Jordan, the sommelier not the basketball player, is a master sommelier and my mentor. He said, “It’s not how much you know, it’s how much you care.” That’s something that has stuck with me, so simple but so powerful. We guess where guests are at, and think how can we meet them there. Invariably every night there is one guest you could have done something better. And being attuned to the needs of others is something applicable to every area of life.
expect to experiment at Les Marchands wine bar & merchant, santa barbara
Most people look at our by the glass list and say, “What language is this?” But then we pour them a tasting and they’re in. We’ve found that “yeah, I’ll try it” makes up about ninety-percent of our clientele. When we originally told our investors we wanted mostly lesser-known European varietals on the list, they said, “Are you crazy?!” But these are balanced out by the local wines. There are tremendous values from strange places. Not just to be strange, but good, high-level wines. But they're not marketed, so they’re way underpriced.
What Brian described here played out in my experience at Les Marchands. Several staffers combined to accommodate my group's requests with recommendations that were right on target, and there were many unfamiliar wines available for tasting, along with attractive pricing. Wines by the glass change frequently, allowing for an ongoing educational process for those fortunate enough to be regular patrons.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchants
Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
After an impassioned pitch from Brian McClintic of SOMM fame, I was more than eager to visit Les Marchands, his Santa Barbara Funk Zone wine bar. On a pleasant Friday evening in January, the bar was already bustling, and my group of four tested out the adaptability of his staff.
I loved the space, with partially roughed-out walls blending right into refined areas with floor to ceiling wine racks. We sat at a corner table directly adjacent to the end of the bar, where we never felt crowded or over-stimulated by the activity around us. I laid out my desire to taste several wines with my wife, while our companions would have only a glass, and asked for suggestions. There was not a tasting on the menu that night, but our initial server confirmed what I was looking for, and assured us that it could be arranged. Soon, a second server arrived. Based on a series of questions, she recommended six wines between the by-the-glass menu and specials board in the bar. My friends chose their glass from her descriptions that followed.
- Terre Des Chardons Marginal Grenache 2011 - What became my overall favorite. A great funky nose, then red berries and roundness. $43
- Calabretta Cala Cala Nerello Mascalese NV - My favorite that night was tannic and tart, with several layers and a long finish. $29
- Catherine et Pierre Breton Trinch! Cabernet Franc 2013 - Grassy, followed by earth, with a sweet finish. $33
- Bellus Girasole Sangiovese 2010 - Petroleum on the nose, then peppery, dirty, and mouth-drying. $31
- Ojai Vineyards John Sebastiano Syrah/Grenache 2013 - From Santa Barbara County. $46
- Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 - From Happy Lane, CA. $46
I inquired of our server about the wine clubs and shipping availability, and another staff member came to escort me to the wine market. He took considerable time to answer my questions about the current inventory and how the clubs work, while addressing numerable questions and requests from staff. The mission of helping customers to discover unknown wines was highlighted. We were discussing Cote Rotie. He described how, if my orders make clear I am a fan of Cote Rotie, or Northern Rhone, or Syrah in general, that Brian and the staff will recognize and use this knowledge to customize future shipments. However, this will not eliminate the encouragement of new experiences, as there will still be the unexpected bottles. I am certain that patrons of the wine bar and club members may be accustomed to hearing, "trust me", from the staff, and pleasantly surprised by the outcome.
There were slight transitional delays in service. I would like to have heard more about the Vallin project Brian is involved in. Perhaps the omission was due to lack of supply of the popular new wines. There was over-sell on the ramen bowl special, a new feature which was suggested four times, even though I stated from the beginning we were only drinking wine.
Four total staff members combined for a complete service experience, accommodating all requests, including the unscheduled, impromptu wine tasting, and answering all questions. Overall, I was pleased with adequate service, and exhilarated by the wines and the discussion of them with several staff members who "got it". I would become a fixture of Les Marchands should I spend regular time in Santa Barbara.
Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant
Suite B, 131 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara, CA 93101
Best Of Los Angeles Wine, Service, And Dining
Impromptu tasting at Les Marchands
The standouts from my visit to Los Angeles and SoCal, from Laguna to Lompoc:
wine
- Sandhi Sta Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - These first two are Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman's Santa Barbara projects. Full coverage here.
- Domaine De La Cote Sta Rita Hills 2012 - Pinot Noir...
- Terre Des Chardones "Marginal" 2012 - Found at Les Marchands. A funky, earthy Syrah-Grenache with a sweet hint to end.
- Calabretta Vino Rosso "Cala Cala" NV - Also from Les Marchands. "The magma in the body". Drink from Mount Etna.
- Marotti Campi Rubico Lacrima Di Morro D'Alba 2012 - Discovered at the Slow Wine event. The story here.
service
- Domaine De La Cote Tasting Room - Outstanding hospitality, throughout set up and a generous tasting. Lompoc
- Open Sesame - Friendly, thorough service and constant attention, from only one server. Long Beach
- Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant - Brian McClintic's thriving operation. Four staff members assisted with everything from setting up an impromptu tasting, to advising on a selection of Cote Rotie to take home. Santa Barbara
- Hotel Shangri-La Dining Room Bar - A right-proper mimosa, with just a splash of OJ, but they had me at Whistle Pig Rye. Santa Monica
- C'est La Vie Restaurant and Bakery - French foods and baked goods were good. The view of the ocean from the upstairs deck, along with entertaining service from "Gary Glitter" made the experience. Gary knows anything you need to know about the area. Laguna Beach
Kogi food truck delights
food
- Republique - I left wanting more. Read about it. 624 South La Brea Avenue, Los Angeles
- Open Sesame - Beef shawarma, lamb chops, hummus, garlic fried potatoes. Musar Jeune 2011. A great experience. Long Beach
- Kogi BBQ Truck - The sweet chili chicken quesadilla, Kogi dog, and various tacos on the hood of my rental. Various locations
- Tortilla Republic - Great sauces on both the duck enchiladas with a habanero cream sauce and mole chicken enchiladas. West Hollywood
- Ma 'n Pa Grocery - "World Famous Fried Chicken" every Wednesday...from a converted gas station. Long Beach
best cocktail
Patterson’s Nap at Melrose Umbrella Company - Cool drink in a cooler place. Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Tangerine, Lemon, Campari. West Hollywood
best to be
Augustine Wine Bar - Now open! 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks
Wine Bars And Service In LA - Talking With Matthew Kaner
Matthew Kaner, co-owner of Bar Covell on Hollywood Boulevard, and the new Augustine Wine Bar in Sherman Oaks, spoke with high-speed enthusiasm on his background and philosophy of wine service, during the final "hell hole" days before the recent opening of Augustine.
wine fast tracking
I got drunk for the first time at seven years old. I stole a glass of champagne at a friend’s wedding, I’ll never forget it. That set the course for my life. I grew up in Santa Barbara County, a big producing area. Grapes were always something I saw, something I was familiar with. So I knew I had a closeness and affinity for it, even though I wasn’t old enough to drink it legally. So, fast-forward to my eighteen-year-old years, I’m managing a restaurant, I went to college in Santa Barbara, and I lived in a house that was known as the Cock House. Eleven guys, it is what you think with the name. One of my roommates had this well-to-do, tax attorney dad, and he decided I was worth investing time and money and effort into. I don’t know why, I don’t question it, but he showed me what Grand Cru Burgundy meant, and what grower Champagne meant, what Madiera from the 1800s meant, and what aged Armagnac meant, and all these things I didn’t know about prior to that. Fast-forward a little more to being a twenty-one-year-old, feeling taken advantage of being a restaurant manager at that age, and I was also trying to do music, something that was really important to me. I made a lot of music for many years, and toured as long as I could. So, one of the things that my whole life goal was, was being able to afford a nice bottle of wine. So I decided to fake it until I made it. I used the knowledge that I was imparted by my friend’s dad, and I quit my restaurant job. I got a job in Santa Barbara at a place called the Wine Cask, and that was where I started, coming up on ten years ago. And that changed my life. I learned about any and every important wine you can imagine. I moved to Los Angeles in 2006, and I got a job at a place called Silver Lake Wine. That’s where I learned about showing up every day and being a part of a community. That’s where I learned, it’s not how much I know, it’s how much I help people. That’s where I made my decision consciously that I was going to focus on wine as a job. So when I had that mindset, that’s when things really started to happen, the wheels were in motion. I felt like the momentum was undeniable. And I was very lucky. I was approached by a friend who was going to open a wine bar. He asked me about it in 2009, and we took the plunge in 2010. We opened Covell July 2nd, 2010, and life has not been the same since. I feel blessed every day.
Matthew and Dave in the latter stages of Augustine construction
do you have your wine decoder ring? - Bar Covell
The no wine list thing was a synthesis of all my big pet peeves. So, you go to a place, you’ve heard about it. They hand you a wine list, you think, “Oh, I can’t wait to see what they have to offer.” You find a couple of things you’re excited about, you make that decision about what you want to buy, and they’re f*/%g out of it! All that time and effort, all that communication, all the recommendations, all of the sudden, the first thing you try to order, they’re out of it. You can never be out of a wine if you don’t have a wine list. Number one. Number two, at Covell, nothing stayed the same. Our wine program of, let’s say one-hundred-fifty wines by the glass, was almost never the same. It would change over weekly, we would sell out of a wine, and it would never come back. It would have been such an intense amount of work to keep up with that, keep it printed, it would have been a waste of my time, a waste of resources, a waste of ink, a waste of paper, just not a smart way to do it. Number three is, most people don’t speak nine languages, most people don’t have a wine decoder ring on, so basically you’re saying, “This primary source document in nine languages, each time I hand it to you, I assume you know what it means, that you know how to read it.” And that’s not the case. So what it comes down to is that it’s not the best way for people to make an informed decision. Having a conversation, though, with someone who knows what they’re talking about, tends to be a better way of making decisions. Other than reading from right to left, “How much does this cost, what is it, oh, OK, I’ll buy that.” So, the encouragement there is, start a conversation, with a little bit of knowledge, we can get a long way together. And just because someone’s never heard of wines from Cornalin, or they’ve never had Tasmanian Riesling, that doesn’t mean they won’t like it. One of the things at Covell that we’re really good at doing, is separating what you know and what you’ve had, and giving context. If you want something light and mineral, it doesn’t matter what it’s called, it matters that it’s light and mineral! And that’s what we deliver. At the end of the day, does it pleasure me, or does it not pleasure me. That’s the end goal, finding that out. So the no wine list, the idea behind the program, other than I’ve never seen it done before, and it’s the most insane undertaking we’ve ever done, it’s a synthesis of things that really piss me off in the industry, that I’m trying to solve.
THE BEST (NON) SOMM
Here’s the deal. With the term Sommelier, there’s such an expectation. I personally quit college, and that’s the last test I took in my life. I don’t take exams, I don’t feel the need to do it, I don’t need to prove myself. But, I have a lot of friends that have gone through the Court of Master Sommeliers, that have gone through the other accreditations. There’s such an incredible time, monetary effort behind that. I have so much respect for people that need to learn, that are constantly on the higher path to know everything about a field. For me personally, I’ve learned through tasting, I’ve learned through traveling, through talking about it, through soaking it up, being a sponge. I’ve never gone through any accreditation myself. So, I’ve been called a Sommelier, I’ve been called one of the best Sommeliers in the country in certain years which is very flattering, and I’m so thankful. But I’m technically not one, because I don’t have accreditation. My argument, for what it’s worth, is that it doesn’t help me help my customers better, so it’s not something that I feel the need to do. But again, some of my friends, that’s their life work, that’s their passion, it’s their calling. And I have the utmost respect for it, because it makes sense in their life. So, am I a Sommelier? Yeah, I do what a Sommelier does, and make people happy with wine. I can pair wine very well with food. I can get you wine for without food. I can do whatever is necessary. But, am I one? I guess. Do I have paper to back it up? No, but does that matter? I argue not. Some of my most-respected colleagues do not have accreditation. It doesn’t mean that you’re better. It doesn’t mean that you get a fancy job. It doesn’t make you someone that can communicate to human beings. It just means that you passed an exam. It means that you paid the fees. It means that you tasted a lot of stuff. It means that you have an i-brain, instead of an iPhone. It’s a synthesis of memorization, repetition. That’s an unbelievable thing to do. There’s another reason why there’s only two-hundred-fifty human beings that have done it. It’s not easy to accomplish.
augustine wine bar, sherman oaks - a rare vintage
Augustine vintage bottles and wines by the glass
Augustine will be fifty to seventy-five wines by the glass. The best thing, Dave, our partner, has this collection of wines he’s been amassing for twenty years. Vintage wines back to the nineteenth century. Lot’s of old things. Lot’s of beautiful things. Incredible places. We’ll do nightly featured wines by the glass from his collection, as well as nightly featured wines by the bottle from the vintage collection. Things like, ’59 Mouton Rothschild. Things like, multiple vintages from the fifties and sixties from all the DRC holdings. The wine bar concept of Covell will be replicated. Wine is the focus. All the service at Covell, as well as all the service at Augustine, is done at the bar. We’re a little different, we’re a hybrid. We’re like when you to to Catalonia, to different regions in Germany, when you’re in Lirac, places in the south of France, this is the concept you tend to see. Owner-operator, behind the bar. It’s their wine program, it’s their friends they’re selling the wine from, and they tend to have some food, because you need food when you’re drinking. It’s conscious. We’re all about the education behind the wine, having some of the best beer you’ve ever had, and being able also to have world-class food with it. It’s more of a wine bar, in its’ actual bones. (Sherman Oaks) is a neighborhood I never thought I would have a foray into. What I realized is, it’s under-served, there’s a lot of sophistication. These people, this is their community, this is their neighborhood. They’ve never had a place that’s cared so much about wine come into their neighborhood. So it’s going to be interesting to see how they interpret it. I’m excited about that.
Partner Dave interjected, "I wish we were open, then I could pour you a nice glass that I had last night. I drank a sixty-six Romanee Saint Vivant. It was great, but it was a bummer, I drank it by myself."
"That’s not a bummer!" exclaimed Matthew.
Dave continued, "I like to share. And I’m not going to drink more than half a bottle by myself, ever. And I know that tonight, it’s not going to be as good. You know, it had its’ magic moment last night. The good thing is, we probably have about ten bottles of that left!"
Your Los Angeles wine experiences await:
Augustine Wine Bar - Now Open - 13456 Ventura Boulevard, Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
Bar Covell - 4628 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027
Be Adventuresome With Wine Tasting
I recently overheard a foursome of young business people talking wine. Sitting at a nearby table, hearing their excitable discussion was unavoidable. "I love Cabernets," stated one, "and (mainstream producer) is really popular right now." The conversation carried on, experiences were shared, and it became clear that these were not wine novices. Yet, non-California Cabernet, like "those William-ette Oregon Pinots" received only a passing, dismissive mention from this group.
With so many great, affordable, and unknown wines to choose from, you should strategize for wine adventures. I had the pleasure of visiting with winemaker Lorenzo Marotti Campi at the Slow Wine Tour in Los Angeles. He poured his wines made from the rare Lacrima grape in the Marche DOC of Italy. The wines had an immensely floral nose, and the perfumed fragrance filled the general tasting area. There were sweet yet firm fruits, and peppery finishes. Lorenzo was extremely kind and hospitable, and his wines were outstandingly different from anything else I tasted.
Lorenzo Marotti Campi & Wife of Wine Man
unlimit your wine adventures
Here is the thing: If I had limited myself to tasting what I knew at the time, I would not have enjoyed this experience. I have had very few wines from this region, and did not know of the Lacrima grape. At the event, Marotti Campi was set up at a table far from regions like Tuscany or Piedmont, and was one of only two (out of 53 total) producers from Marche. It was the last table I visited, and his neighbor producer had already shut down, leaving the table looking somewhat disheveled. Fortunately, my wife insisted that we go over and try it.
I may never taste these wines again, but the ten minutes spent with Lorenzo and his wines made my night, and converted an otherwise average tasting into a memorable experience. If you are currently committed to a particular wine, enjoy it to the full. But when the opportunity to taste something new and different, red or white or bubbly, presents itself, take it! You just do not know what you might otherwise miss.
Connect with me on the social media links below for more out of the ordinary wine talk.
Randa Warren - Conversation With A Master Sommelier
I recently caught up with Master Sommelier Randa Warren of Tulsa, Oklahoma, one of the still few female Masters in the world. We discussed her journey to arrive at this highest level, and her advice on experiencing wine that everyone can apply.
Getting started
I was just really frustrated not really knowing very much about wine and being in a situation where I was starting to dine out more frequently, with people with some financial ability. Some of the people I was with thought by having good wine that meant ordering expensive wines, and that was usually a Cabernet. I just really wanted to learn a little more about wine. I knew there must be more, and I was interested in it. I would pursue it by taking some low-level wine courses in a home study program in New York. That led to the upper levels in that program to the point where it got difficult. So I got a tutor to help me with one of the more advanced programs, some of the viticulture, on diseases and pruning. Then I met a core group, and began studying with them via fax, because we didn’t have email at the time. I took the introductory Sommelier program, and I just loved it! I passed the Advanced Sommelier exam in 2000, on my first attempt.
master struggles
When I got to Master level, they just cut me off at the knees. My service was very weak, because I didn’t work in a restaurant. Being a woman and being from Oklahoma, and being blonde, if you want to go down that road, but just not working in the restaurant industry really hurt me. People would be like, “Why are you even doing this?” I knew I had to work regularly in restaurants. So I began working in restaurants for free, then I began traveling around the country working with Master Sommeliers, tasting with them. One of my idols is Madeline Triffon, who is the first female Master Sommelier in the world. She was gracious enough to let me work under her in some of her restaurants. There were so many things I picked up from so many different Masters that took the time to help me. I was very blessed in that situation.
I loved (the SOMM documentary film), because I thought it was an excellent portrayal of what it was. I was a big advocate of note cards. I had note cards for everything. I always had note cards in my purse. And people in my neighborhood, if I didn’t have my note cards, they would say, “Where are your note cards?” So, that movie, you notice they all had note cards, they all had quiz cards. They were totally consumed with wine and the theory of wine, and that’s what it took. I thought it was an excellent portrait.
You really have to put a lot of things on hold. But at the same time you are advancing yourself, feeding your passion for knowledge, advancement in wine. Everyone in this program, give or take the very gifted ones, has had something that dogs them. I have a friend who is a great wine taster, but didn’t conform to the system, the tasting grid, getting your points. He would just sail through it, and they would say, “Well, yeah, you got the wine, but you didn’t get any points.” It has to be to be a fair program, to test people equally. I had a lot of setbacks, failures, at the Master level, but every year I came back, and I was ten to twenty times better than the year before. A lot of challenges, but all of them were overcome. I think anybody can overcome challenges that are thrown your way. I passed the master in 2007.
would you like to try...
When I come back from South Africa I’ll be all hot on the South Africans, and bring in six or eight new wines, and they’ll be slow movers, and I’ll be saying, “Why did I bring these in?” But I can get people to try things, they usually trust me, and my palate. I wish I could have that store full of unique, and not so much expensive, but high quality wines, but they just don’t move. I tell people all the time, "If you like Sauvignon Blanc, that’s great. But just don’t be stuck drinking California Sauvignon Blanc the rest of your life." You’re missing out if you don’t try some from New Zealand and you’re certainly missing out on the Loire Valley. At some point you’re going to tire of that simplistic taste, or someone is going to expose you to something with a little more complexity and the lightbulb will go off, and you say, “OK, I’m willing to spend more money to enhance this experience.” Life is too short to be locked into only three different grape varietals. I do see people wanting to try new indigenous varietals, so people do want new things, and they’re willing to spend money for it. I think that’s great, and a lot of people are just like I was seventeen years ago, wanting to learn more about wine, and to start moving up the scale a little bit.
A friend of mine came in, budget conscious, having a dinner party, and I sold her a bottle of Sauternes. It was kind of a big deal, because I sold her a thirty-five dollar bottle of dessert wine, and she wanted all the others to be under twenty dollars. I said, “if you ever want to call me and have me put together something...” and she said, “No, I really like to come out and talk to you and get the reasoning behind the madness of why you ordered this and why you pair this with this food verses that one.” I saw it as a real achievement, and told her on the way out to pick up a piece of baklava, and save some of the Sauterne and drink it with the baklava. It’s the most incredible dessert wine pairings I’ve ever come across. She said she would, so we’ll see what she thinks. To me, that’s what’s rewarding, to get somebody into something they would never have done on their own.
future challenge
Programs (Court of Master Sommeliers) are going to get more rigorous, more strict. I think they’re trying to get people to think more at every level, not just blindly studying, blindly tasting, without any focus. I think it’s really going to become a lot more focused, much more rigid, and produce some excellent Sommeliers. The Court is also focusing a lot more on, "How can we make this program better for the students, and not waste their time and their money?" I think everybody is thinking more smartly. I’m very excited about where the court is headed.
I would just encourage the readers to challenge themselves, to push themselves a little more. Look where you are right now, look where you could be with a little bit of study, look where you could be with a lot of study, look where you could be if you pushed yourself through four levels of the Master Sommelier program. The question is do you want to do that? Where do you see yourself in ten years? If you put yourself on a pinnacle you never thought you could reach, just by doing a little study each day, a little tasting each day, having more wine tasting parties, finding a core group of people to study with and taste with. The bottom line is to enjoy it. To enjoy what you drink. But to get out and discover new treasures every day. That’s what makes life exciting, and worth drinking!
2012 Bordeaux Tasting Standouts
Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux members showed off many wines from the 2012 vintage at the Museum of Flight in Santa Monica. Thanks to Wally's Wine & Spirits for hosting the event. It was a packed event, full of colorful personalities, many of whom made individual exhibitions of an unfortunate array of perfumes and colognes. I tasted my way through fifty-six wines in two hours. While many were light, even thin for their youth, and had an overriding grassiness, there were several standouts. Here are the best tasting Chateau to me, their appellation, highest En Primeur critics ratings as available, and current, still-futures (expected delivery summer, 2015) prices.
Bordeaux bargain
Clarke, Listrac-Medoc - Layers of flavors, yet smooth and approachable, and great for the price. 16-Decanter, $32
Great Whites
Malartic-Lagraviere Blanc, Pessac-Leognan - Rich and powerful fruits and acidity, stoney, with toasty edges. 91-94-Parker, $66
Larrivet Haut-Brion Blanc, Pessac-Leognan - $50
Red and ready
Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan - Full and ripe, with tobacco spice and length of finish. 91-93-Parker, $90
Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan - 92-95-Parker, $95
Lagrange, Saint-Julien - 17 Decanter, $50
Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien - 87-90-Wine Spectator, $65
Saint Pierre, Saint-Julien - 91-93-Parker, $59
Rest of the best
Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol - $70
Lascombes, Margaux - 90-92-Parker, $73
Trotte Vielle, Saint-Emilion - 90-93-Parker, $83
Grand Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac - 89-92-Wine Spectator, $67
Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien - 90-93-Wine Spectator, $95
Sandhi And Domaine De La Cote - Santa Barbara Stars
These were some of my favorite wines from a tasting trip in the Los Angeles area. Rajat Parr and Sashi Moorman are players in both wineries, and have special things happening in Santa Barbara.
I tried six wines at the Domaine De La Cote tasting room in Lompoc. The delightful Molly Barker, an enthusiastic Lompoc native who runs the tasting room, explained that Raj wanted the Domaine De La Cote Pinot Noirs tasted before the Sandhi Chardonnays. It was an intriguing spin to the customary order which showed off the purity of the Pinots, then allowed the powerful and refreshing whites to shine.
- Domaine De La Cote Sta. Rita Hills 2012 - Smoky and dirty, with ripe and tart red berries, my favorite of the Pinots. $45
- Domaine De La Cote Bloom's Field 2012 - A big and bold peppery start, leveled by sweeter red fruit, and a long ending. $70
- Domaine De La Cote la Cote 2012 - Even bigger(?) with spice notes, this one balanced by creamy fruits. $90
- Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 - Lemon creme and wisps of smoke, very fresh. My favorite of the Chardonnays. $38
- Sandhi Rita's Crown Chardonnay 2012 - Boldly, yet nicely, acidic and mineral driven. $55
- Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2012 - From some of the oldest vines in the area, very smooth and subtle with a slightly bitter finish. $55
Molly mentioned a couple of the primary winemaking focuses: Domaine De La Cote is stored in neutral oak with no toast, for a transparent expression of Pinot. Sandhi is made with lower alcohol and higher acidity. These philosophies are working for them. I would enjoy all six wines on a regular basis.
Republique LA - Just A Taste
Republique French bistro in Los Angeles is highly-acclaimed, and with "best of" awards in multiple categories after only a year, I was excited to visit. A late lunch on a Monday provided an uncrowded scene inside what appears to be a French market. The open, two-story atrium offers views into several kitchen and prep areas full of constant activity. Be sure to check out their special event spaces, particularly the Left Bank Wine Room.
The walk-up counter to order lunch runs alongside the bakery, which displayed dozens of beautifully arranged goods. I later enjoyed a selection of desserts, including Salted Caramel Chocolate Cake and Matcha Green Tea Bundt Cake with Yuzu Glaze, which delivered the strong flavors of their descriptive names. My favorite item from Republique, though, was the Hazelnut Paris Brest, a sliced pastry with creamy hazelnut frosting filling, and fresh chopped hazelnuts resting on the chocolate-iced top. It was stunningly delicious.
The menus change daily, with specials in most categories. The iced beverage offered that day was Blood Orange Lemonade, which had nicely balanced flavors and milder sweetness. For lunch, I had the so-called Regular Breakfast, complete with bacon steak, a slightly sweet, pleasantly tender, quarter-inch thick cut of...bacon!
I had only a glass of the featured French white wine, served in a Schott Zwiesel glass. That I was so impressed by Republique, from a lightly-serviced lunch, and without experiencing the wine program of sommelier Taylor Parsons, is saying something. I am eager to return for the full meal deal.
Santa Barbara Wines Ready To Impress
A recent wine tasting trip to Southern California yielded some unexpected favorites. After several tastings, and over a hundred wines from all around the world, the most impressive were not from Bordeaux or Napa, but from Santa Barbara County. Several exuberant wines like Domaine De La Cote Bloom's Field 2012, and Sandhi Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2012 stood out from their competition. It is easy to see why winemaker and master sommelier Brian McClintic said, "Santa Barbara has unlimited potential."
The wines tasted include 2012 Bordeaux and out of the mainstream Italians tried at large events, plus smaller producer tastings and numerous wines by the glass. Along with the wine itself, there were conversations with some of the top wine professionals and one of the foremost advocates of food trucks in the United States. I will share more about my tastings and best experiences in posts over the next few weeks.
Saving Wine - Put A Cork In It
Surprisingly often, I find myself with leftover wine. I cannot bear the idea of pouring out good wine, even if it is only a glass or less. What is the best way to preserve open wine?
Contraptions vs the cork
Numerous stoppers, vacuums, and similar gadgets are on the market, and promoted as being progressively improved to better save your open wine. However, I find that for short-term storage, a cork is equally as effective. Use a cork that is not dried out, and fits tightly in the mouth of the bottle. Then put the wine in your refrigerator. With these simple steps, red wine will remain fresh for several days, and white wine even longer.
This was confirmed by a tasting experience I enjoyed at the upscale Fearing's Restaurant, where I was served a red wine that had been open for three days. It was sealed only with the cork and kept climate controlled, and drank pleasantly.
give wine a chance
Many wines are naturally built to last. I recommend that you always keep any amount of extra wine, as it is easily, freely, secured and stored. Even if you do not refrigerate the wine, it will stay alive for another day or two. The wine's taste may change, and you may not want to serve it as the first wine for a dinner party, but there is a good chance it will remain more than drinkable. And only your taste can say for sure when it has "gone bad."
How do you preserve your open wine?
Before You Travel, Plan To Connect
If you have made efforts to seek out wine and dining experiences for an upcoming trip, you may also have made observations about events and people that interest you. Wine tasting events are on the rise, and the makers and purveyors of the wines are more active socially. Why not find if there is an extraordinary opportunity available during your travel?
find the wine calendar
Events are easy. Simply executing a search for "wine events (city of travel)" will return pages of links to sort through, but many will be in the past or repeated. A better tactic is to search local media, wine, and restaurant sites, some of which will have event calendars or additional resources. Some examples:
the wine celebrity challenge
A flexible schedule and patience are required, but reaching out to sommeliers, winemakers, and other wine celebrities may yield thrilling results. If you are really excited to visit a particular winery or restaurant, you really cannot go wrong by expressing your anticipation, and asking politely for an audience with the proprietor, chef, or somm. Most sites have contact information for influential members of the team. Even if there is only an email address to "info@...", give it a try. The worst that will happen is that your request will be declined by a staff member, but they should make note of your request and take good care of you when you visit. It is more likely you will receive your response directly from the source. Even if the person is not available for a lengthy conversation, he or she may stop by to say hello, and make sure that the staff knows to give you attention. Maybe you will receive a special treat from the kitchen, a personal tour of the winery, or an opportunity to taste reserve wines. And the person may available for more.
Of course, you can succeed without going all-in in this manner. Narrow to just a few desired wine and restaurant targets, and make your moves. One caution: Make it clear you are paying your own way, and not seeking a freebie. You will probably be surprised, and sure to be pleased, by the responses. Ask, and you may receive, but you will surely enjoy a better experience.
What has been your experience with wine and dining celebrities?
Full Circle Wine Tasting Experience
Here is an example of a wine discovery experience going full-circle, highlighted with some of my most-popular posts:
A tAsting Strategy
I tasted over thirty wines at an event when I found the first bottling of Gehricke Carneros Pinot Noir 2012. It was clearly one of the best at the time, and after a stand-alone bottle for confirmation, it was time to buy it up. I shopped several local stores until I found the most attractive price, and purchased several bottles.
if you like it...
I enjoyed and shared the initial bottles over the next two months, and the wine was a consistent favorite, scoring well even among friends that do not like (?) Pinot Noir. After much travel, including tasting trips to Oregon and Las Vegas, and hundreds of wines, the Gehricke ended up as my top wine pick of the year. But while continuing to buy and drink the wine, I began to notice something...
buy it all
Supply was running out. I went on a quick spree and purchased the last bottles at my shops. I asked a couple of stores to check with the distributor, which confirmed the sold out status. A search on the producer's site now finds the nearest bottles six-hundred miles away.
I always feel accomplished when I recognize and introduce others to a wine that later becomes mainstream, and especially when I have a few bottles held back for the future. For now, it is back to the tasting trail to find another highly recommended.
Have you tried the Gehricke? What did you think?