Lessons With Wine Exploration

Always eager to try a different style of wine, I was excited when friends brought me straight from Germany a bottle of Schreieck Faszination Scheurebe Trocken 2014. The wine was a treat, but more, it made me think of all the lessons to be learned while exploring the background of just one bottle:

• Fun with Languages - There were a minuscule twelve-thousand search returns for "weingut schreieck", and almost none in English. Site translation proved helpful to an extent, and reasoning on a variety of unfamiliar German words and phrases proved challenging, but intriguing. The Faszination line appears to describe wines that are as elegant and "delightful as you are". Also the description might read "good for happy hours", and "especially at night".
• Underlying and Unexpected Flavors - I felt this particular bottle was dominated by a thick layer of grapefruit. This is apparently common with wines from the Scheurebe grape, a mysterious offshoot of Riesling. The winery promotes gooseberry and rhubarb notes. My tongue is not keen enough to recognize such specific flavors, but they made sense after I read the literature. Interestingly, a search finds everything from Pinterest boards to toiletry product lines of "grapefruit and gooseberry". Who knew?
• (More) Level Playing Field - Almost hidden in the description is the wine's Silberne, or Silver Kammerpreismunze, a German state's Chamber of Agriculture-awarded medal for wine quality. It appears Germany attempts to reward quality in the glass, rather than location, tradition, etc. It would be interesting to see how an overarching, state-run, wine ratings system would be received in America.

These are only a few of the interesting references available on the web about a somewhat obscure wine. Much like wine choices, information about wine has never been more available. And, I had as much fun reading up on the wine as drinking it. What do you like to learn while wine-ing around?

Subtle On-Screen Wine Appearances

My wine love leads to quirky activities, like identifying wines that are somewhat hidden on-screen. There are understandably increasing numbers of films that are based on wine, like my all-timer SOMM, or serious box office bonanzas like Sideways. But what about appearances where wine was not intentionally a star? Here are just a few not-so-subtle starring roles. 

Anton Ego and Cheval Blanc '47 from Ratatouille

Bogie as booze master, via BoozeMovies.com

1. Casablanca - Champagne and Cognac and Brandy, oh my! What would you expect from Rick's? There are so many scenes involving wine and service, it is difficult to pick the best. But the classic is not really about the drinks. Or is it? 
2. The Muppet Movie - Steve Martin hilarity with assistance from bottle-capped wine from Idaho. See the conversation here, via WineIntro.com. 
3. Sopranos - A specific reference to the season six, episode nine wine heist of a case of Chateau Pichon-Loungueville Comtesse de Lalande 1986. If I had a case, I would happily savor a bottle as soon as possible, even if I were to gulp it down in a parking lot, like Tony. Though I would take much better care of the rest!
4. Ratatouille - Esteemed food villain Anton Ego enjoys Chateau Cheval Blanc 1947, another famed Bordeaux fetching up to five figures for a bottle. And there was this. 
5. Mad Men - Alongside the dominance of cocktails, wine had an increasing presence throughout the series. If only it could have carried further into the seventies to encompass the initial explosion of American wine. I like this article for a dive into the historical accuracy of the Mad wine culture, and there are several more articles on GrapeFriend.com.

With dozens more to choose from, what are your favorite on-screen wine moments?

When Spouses Disagree About Wine

It is fortunate for me that my wife is just as big a wine lover as I am. Unfortunately, that does not guarantee we are always in agreement. With the dog days of summer upon us, one of those disagreements, the drinking of white wine, arises regularly. I enjoy a variety of whites. For an opposing point of view, I am happy to introduce my first guest wino, Wife of Wine Man…

Instead of white wine

So it's hotter than a Dallas billionaire's trophy wife believes she is. This raises a dilemma in the Van The Wine Man household. Wife of Wine Man (that's me) doesn't like white wine. 

I know, I know. Blah blah. Every now and then an extremely chilled Sauvignon Blanc, that has strong essence of grapefruit and/or tastes like it was rolling around with those stones you used to get in your jeans pockets in the eighties, since the eighties, will work. Other than that, I'm out. 

(My undaunted wine hero did chill a red for me recently more than the norm. And you know what? Loved it!) 

All the pros always tout “no rules” and “drink what you like”, so there you go! What's your wine answer to fry an egg on the sidewalk temps?

One Flew South, Atlanta - First Class Fast

Any time I book a flight that has any layover in Atlanta, I get excited. Yes it is always busy, and often my flight is delayed, but that leaves more time to soak up the southern comforts of One Flew South. Self-described as "travel inspired provisions", with "spirited global fare", it is uncommonly good food and drink to find in an airport, or anywhere. 

OFS Dirty South

The menus feature unique twists and combinations. The "OFS" Dirty South is my favorite. An open-face meatloaf sandwich, with pimento cheese, spinach, bacon, BBQ sauce, and a lightly fried egg on top. Or the Kentuckyaki Springer Chicken Fried Rice, with pickled okra. Then there is 

The bar is a special place. There is the strong and reasonably priced wine list, with over thirty by the glass selections from around the world. A long list and variety of Bourbons and Rye Whiskeys available. Innovative cocktails are seemingly endless, or there are the more than properly prepared classics. The personalities, though, make the OFS bar what it is, moving with impressive speed, while never appearing out of control, and engaging in charming conversation. 

The diverse service staff all know how to work quickly, yet still deliver a fine dining feeling. My servers have often inquired about flight times to be sure I would enjoy my meal and have time to get to my gate.

Even if you are not in concourse E, the trains between concourses are fast, and it is worth the extra effort. Next time you fly through Atlanta, let One Flew South slow things down for you.

One Flew South - Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, Concourse E

A Great Wine Program - Ruth's Chris, Destin

I rarely find memorable experiences at chain restaurants, much less outstanding wine programs and service. Ruth's Chris Steakhouse in Destin, Florida delivered a completely unexpected pleasure on a recent visit.

Intriguing Diddle-Speak

My wife and I arrived early for a reservation and decided to have a cocktail at the bar. Beverage Director Skot Harville overheard my request for the wine list, which he delivered. After browsing, I asked which wines were drinking well that he would recommend to go with dinner. Without hesitation he suggested the Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2010, priced with a hefty markup at $150. Everything was proceeding as I would expect at an upscale chain restaurant, with somewhat impersonal exchanges building up to a high-dollar wine pitch.

But the conversation expanded as we enjoyed our cocktails and studied the list. Skot described the Brunello in depth, asked questions about our wine preferences, and we discussed various regions of Italy. Next, he surprised us when he began bringing out bottles for us to taste, each served in a new glass with a significant pour. First there was Southern Belle Precious Syrah 2011, a Spanish wine supposedly finished in old Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. It was full and spicy initially, then as promised, wood-charred and sweet on the finish. As interesting as the wine was, the back label verbiage might have been even better. He followed that with a new bottle of Cheval des Andes 2010, a joint project of Cheval Blanc and Terrazas de los Andes. A Malbec-based Bordeaux blend, it was almost black, with floral and minerals heaped upon layers of dark berries. As he opened the bottle, he justified out loud that he would save the rest for a large group that evening. We would have enjoyed either of the other wines, but chose the big Brunello for dinner, which was opened at the bar for a quick gasp of air. We lingered several minutes after finishing our drinks enjoying the wine talk. 

Our table had been ready for twenty minutes, but there was no pressure to be seated. "Whenever you are ready", said the hostess. Dinner was excellent, with solid team service. Skot checked at the table to confirm we agreed the Brunello drank well with our steaks. The pairing was very nice, although I saved most of the wine to savor after the meal. It was bold, but not too big, with burned edges, very dry, and long-lasting. I returned to the bar before we left to thank Skot and snap photos of the earlier wines. I mentioned my interest in the Cheval des Andes, and he allowed me to purchase a bottle for just above his cost, a nice discount from retail price. 

This Ruth's Chris experience, dominated by the basics of great service, wine and steak, is my favorite from a large-scale steakhouse. It would have been better than average had I not been engaged by Skot at the bar, but his attention and interest put it over the top. When in Destin, be sure to look him up.

Ruth's Chris Steak House - 15000 Emerald Coast Parkway, Silver Shells Resort, Destin, FL 32541

Wine Stories - Allora Vineyards

Wines are always accompanied by stories. My friends gifted me two delightful wines from Allora Vineyards. I was not familiar, so I read up on their history. Owner Terry Klein spent his teenage years in Napa Valley, and dreamed making fine wine. Returning as an adult with his wife Nancy, they purchased a pasture in St. Helena in 1998, and commenced growing what would become Allora. In a short time, they have turned out a solid product line from their former pasture. 

Allora Vineyards Lusso Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 - With tannins smoothed out, a gentle giant emerged. Layers of complexity expressed themselves over time, with red berries, chocolate, and wood tones. A 100% Cabernet Reserve wine.

Allora Vineyards Cielo Red Proprietary Blend 2011 - A rustic, slightly spicy wine reflecting Italian style. Also very smooth, and dry at the end. The blend is 75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet. 

Additional wines include a Petite Sirah and Cabernet Franc.

Another story is on the Lusso label, which features the art of Margaret Keane, famous for her Big Eyes paintings and the 2014 film centered on her life story. In the poster the label is taken from, three young women sit contemplating over their wine. Looking closely, you can see a tiny Cielo bottle on the right side of the print. 

Cool Red Wines For Summer?

If the idea of "cool" and "red" applied to wine seems out of the ordinary, it is because we typically drink red wine that is too warm. The concept of chilling red wines may take some getting used to, but is worth trying out. Especially when the summer heat is on.

Finer wines and heavier reds will not display their full aromatic character and complexity if too cool. But chances are, you have never had a red wine that was "too cool". Reds should be optimal when served between fifty-five and sixty-five degrees. A half-hour in the refrigerator before pulling the cork will give you a refreshingly different version of your favorite wine. Heat, even prolonged exposure to room temperature, is a primary enemy of red wine. If keeping an open bottle in the refrigerator will help sustain it for multiple days, why wouldn't cooling it briefly before opening make it more drinkable?

Maybe you don't want to put ice in your red wine, but give the chill a chance for a satisfying summer experience.

My preferred wine for outdoor grilling season is a light and fruity Barbera. What about you? What is your favorite chilled red wine for summertime?

Wine Tasting And Changing Tastes

Have you ever found a wine you really enjoyed, so you bought more, but when you tried it again you were really disappointed? While the wine could be different, it more likely could have been factors affecting your sense of taste that was responsible for the let down. 

A multitude of signals are combined by our brains to tell us what we are tasting. The process is complicated by approximately everything around and about us. Consider just a few things that can have impact on taste:

• Air
• Weather
• Our and others' clothing
• Who sat at the table before us
• Fragrances, candles, and air fresheners
• What was used to clean the glass, table, or room
• What we ate or drank earlier
• Our mood

The influences on our individual tastes are limitless and confounding. And cause constant adapting, expanding or contracting, and changing of our tastes. If you have a disappointment with a wine you previously liked, give it another try later. Your tastes may be leveraged by something other than the wine!

Wine And U.S. History

Jefferson Vineyards today

Throughout history, wine has always been present, connecting generations of events and figures. Just consider one example from the the wine scene in the colonies leading up to the American Revolution. Attempts to produce quality wine in America had been going strong for nearly two centuries at the time of the Revolution. Thomas Jefferson invested several decades surrounding the war cultivating European vines in what is now Virginia. One of Jefferson's neighbors was Philip Mazzei, an Italian physician-turned-winemaker, recruited to the country by Benjamin Franklin. Jefferson and Mazzei developed the first commercial vineyard in the area, before Mazzei joined his neighbor in politics. He was officially recognized by a joint resolution of Congress in 1994 for his contribution to the Declaration of Independence. 

The vineyards Jefferson and Mazzei originated are now turning out award-winning wines, as one of nearly two-hundred producers in Virginia. These wineries are the centerpieces of a booming tourism culture, complete with all the modern amenities. Centuries in the making and brimming with United States history, Virginia offers the perfect scholarly version of wine country. 

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle Wine Tasting

I visited the Seattle location of Purple Cafe & Wine Bar on a hot weekday afternoon, intent on trying the wine program. Upon entering, I was drawn to the unavoidable vision of the immense wine tower in the center of the restaurant and bar. Hundreds of bottles surrounded the cylindrical tower, wrapped by a spiral staircase leading to the upper level. Floor to ceiling windows brought full lighting and color to the centerpiece, making it even more spectacular. 

The wine list, while close to one-hundred pages, is not your typical volume. A selection of aperitifs, and why you want to drink them, precedes "brewed liquids" and almost thirty wine flight options. From simple descriptions (Rose, Spain) to clever, (Acid Freaks, Earth) there is a trio of wines to please any taste. Next are in-depth sections on Madeira and Sherry, with accompanying flights. Sixty wines by the glass from all over the world (Slovenia?) are available, and they are happy to provide a taste of any of these. Then comes the long list of bottles, with explanations of style and particular wines that are both informational and entertaining. "We were going to wait until they were old enough to drive, but we figured most of us got our learner's permit around this age" says the introduction to the trio of E. Guigal Cote Rotie 2000s. There is not a corkage charge on the first bottle, and most of the bottles are available for "retail sale" at forty-percent off the list price.

I enjoyed two flights of reds from France and Spain, while snacking on Gorgonzola-Stuffed Dates and Baked Brie. The pours were generous and full. Brief description cards helped identify the wines, but did not provide tasting notes that would affect my expectations of what I should taste. My server brought two additional red wines that she described as staff picks for the foods. This leads to another note on the wine list: "Every dish on our menu has been paired through a daily collaboration between our chefs and sommeliers." The staff was fully prepped and ready to recommend a wine for any dish on the menu.

Service was excellent throughout, and observant. At one point, the sun began to shine through the window on my table, immediately increasing heat and glare. No more than a moment later, the blinds to that window were being closed. My server checked on me and asked if I would be comfortable enough to remain at that table. 

Purple is a different kind of wine bar, offering complete wine tasting experiences, for beginners to world explorers. I could easily see myself becoming a regular visitor, working my way round and around the globe, a glass at a time.

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar - 1225 4th Avenue, Seattle, WA  98101

Wine Talk With Rajat Parr

Rajat Parr has invested two decades in restaurant and wine service and oversight, wine education, and now wine making, to become one of the world's most influential Sommeliers. While juggling all these responsibilities and collecting the industry's highest honors, he remains abundantly outgoing and gracious. Clearly, he lives the quote of Mahatma Gandhi that adorns his email signature: "The best way to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others." Here are highlights from conversation he shared with me surrounding his passion for wine.

On how he got started with wine...

I was born and grew up in India, and went to hotel school. I always loved cooking, but there was not a cooking school in India at the time. So I went to hotel school, and then I was accepted and moved to New York to the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park. While I was there I joined the wine club, and I fell in love with wine. So my focus shifted to wine, and I started working, and moved to San Francisco and worked with Larry Stone at a restaurant called Rubicon. I started as a busboy and moved up to Sommelier with Larry as his assistant. Then I was Sommelier at Fifth Floor, and then Michael Mina, and opened around twenty restaurants. I was already making wine, so I did both from ’04 to 2012, and then I finally moved full-time to Santa Barbara. 

So you have four different wine projects. I can see why you had get out of restaurant business. How do you manage all of them?

Ha ha! I don’t know. Yes, two estate projects and two negociant or purchased grape projects. There is Domaine de la Cote in Santa Rita Hills, and Seven Springs Vineyards in Oregon that are estate. Then we have Sandhi, and Maison L'Oree in Burgundy, small negociants. All of these things just happened very naturally and nothing was forced. We have great partners, and we work it out. We have fun doing it. We have a great time working with Seven Springs, an old vineyard, planted in the mid-eighties. It’s pretty great to work with an almost thirty-year old vineyard. Then Domain de la Cote is a new vineyard, planted in ’06. Pretty great to see the potential of the young vineyard. Hopefully it will be great in twenty or thirty years.

On Santa Barbara and the new California wine scene...

I always loved Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and I think you can grow Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pretty well in Santa Barbara. You can make wines which have good levels of high-acidity, very vibrant wines. Sonoma was another option, and Santa Cruz. They all are different. I just felt Santa Barbara was more my style. When Domaine de la Cote was planted, early on, I was quite astounded by the results from the vineyard, so I decided to go all in.

In Pursuit of Balance was supposed to be just a small gathering or tasting. Me and my friend Jasmine Hirsch, when she was just starting to work with her family vineyard, and I had just started Sandhi. And we said let’s do a tasting, get some like-minded people together. So we did a small tasting of twenty people in 2011. It was a big success. There were a lot of people interested in listening to what’s happening in California, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot, and that small tasting now has a pretty big following. There was a great article, one of the best articles written, by Anne Crable. Are you on Twitter? I put it on Twitter. One of the most informative articles I’ve seen. 

What advice would you give to the wine drinking community, with so much good wine and new trends?

I think that the most important thing is to have an open mind, and to try different things. Sometimes people just always drink the same wines they drink, and stay in their comfort zone. I think it’s important to open your mind, try different things. Different wines with different foods, and see. The only way your palate will evolve is to taste different things. If you taste the same things every day, you’re not evolving your palate. Keep an open mind, try different things, that’s the most important thing. That way you can really explore new things, try some fun wines, and learn more. The younger generation (is like this) for sure. The Millennials are very curious. Quite different than the Baby Boomers. They like the classics. Which, there is nothing wrong. But if you want to learn more, you must have an open mind. 

Rajat was honored with the 2011 James Beard Award for Beverage for his book, Secrets of the Sommeliers: How to Think and Drink Like the World's Top Wine Professionals. I asked how things have changed since it was published:

I think when we wrote the book, we didn’t really account for so many young sommeliers now. The core of the book is still really relevant. There are a lot of regions that have really developed in the past five years. Things are changing rapidly in the wine world. I think we will have to do a new edition to update all the new wines. Australia for example. California was really small at the time, and now there is so much more. I think the core story and core content are still really relevant. Definitely that. And I am working on a new book as well. 

When he won the 2015 James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits, or Beer Professional, I asked for his comments on a second Award:

The James Beard Award means a lot to me. It's a huge honor and an endorsement by the food and wine community. I feel humbled!

See notes from my tasting of Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi here.

New Orleans Best Wine, Service, And Dining

Wine

I tasted dozens of wines at the New Orleans Wine And Food Experience Grand Tasting. Find the full report on my favorites here.

Service

Ramos Gin Fizz at The Sazerac Bar

1. The Sazerac Bar at The Roosevelt New Orleans - Guys behind the bar had strong personalities to pair with excellent drink preparation, which came with flare and entertaining or educational commentary. As high-brow as it may be, they were not above taking extra care of guests. More details here.
2. Mr. B's - A serious approach to southern hospitality, with a smooth-running team effort. And no napkins left lying! See the full review.
3. Tujague's - A one-man show of service from our energetic, authentic, young server. Best line of the trip: "This wasn't Ralph's best day." Speaking of the whole fried chicken he had just served up. Low-key, under the radar humor was interlaced with completely efficient care of the table. 
4. Teddy's Cafe at The Roosevelt - I thought about grouping the three Roosevelt establishments, but they all brought their own excellence. Teddy's was all about friendly speed. And great coffee.
5. Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt - From hosting unannounced, large, late-night groups, to freshly brewed, large coffee to go, the Lounge's service was as good as its live entertainment.

 

Tujague's Chicken Bonne Femme

Dining

1. Mr. B's - I still taste the savory/sweetness of the Bacon Wrapped Shrimp and Grits.
2. Tujague's - Chicken Bonne Femme, an experience to be had.
3. Galatoire's - The famed Godchaux Salad lived up to the hype, with crab and a coarse, spicy Creole Mustard Vinaigrette.
4. Fountain Lounge at The Roosevelt - For the darkest, thickest, tastiest Smoked Chicken Gumbo.
5. Clover Grill - More of an experience, but still a solid breakfast or burger any time. Open 24/7.

Cocktail

Anything at The Sazerac Bar - I was deep into my Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve Rye. Ramos Gin Fizzes and Sazeracs flowed, but I also witnessed on-the-spot bar chemistry concoctions, and straightforward, traditional cocktails of all sorts.

New Orleans Wine And Food Experience

The Saturday Grand Tasting on Memorial Day weekend was a wine and dining circus. Although inside the New Orleans Convention Center, the layout and lighting gave it a giant tent-like feel, microphones blared tasting notes and cooking demonstrations from every angle, and a low, steady roar of the crowd (or was it lions and tigers?) carried on throughout. I enjoyed a fast-paced tasting tour, although the crowds slowed me considerably, preventing the volume I would have preferred. Several vendors ran out of product completely, and even packed up and left their areas, as early as halfway through the event. But these are the risks when attempting serious tasting in a large crowd. Standout wines included:

1. Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva 2010 - Bright red berries with a rustic, dry finish. $17
2. Chateau De Chantegrive Graves Blanc 2011 - Refreshing and light Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, with honeysuckle. $22
3. Clarksburg Wine Company Petite Sirah 2011 - Thick and inky, with dark berries, subtle spices, and a vanilla hint. $26
4. Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2014 - Earthy, raspberry and spice. $22
5. Canard Vineyard Adam's Blend 2012 - (link to 2011 notes) The second Canard wine that has caught my attention in as many months. Mostly Cabernet Franc, with red fruit to spare, woody, and chocolate notes. $65

Keep Tasting - For Wine Satisfaction

Purple Cafe & Wine Bar, Seattle's wine tower

I have regular conversations with people who have frustrations with finding wines they enjoy. Some even conclude that they do not really like wine! They are typically lighter wine drinkers, and have limited experience tasting different styles. I always ask if they have a favorite from the past, and what it was. If they have one, it becomes easy to recommend options. If not, then the answer is likely to try more wine. 

At a recent tasting, I tried fourteen wines, seven each of whites and reds. While I would happily drink most of them, none were overly impressive to me, and I did not have a favorite. This is rare, but it was a small event, and when it does happen, the only course of action is to prepare for the next tasting. 

If finding the right wine for you is a challenge, simply keep tasting. Take advantage of wine by the glass and sample pours when dining out, and make notes about your likes and dislikes. Ask advice from knowledgeable restaurant staff members, wine retailers, and friends. When you find a wine you like, buy a bottle of it, and a couple more from the same region and year for comparison.

There are too many good choices, literally thousands of wines, for you to not really love what you are drinking. But with this volume, the overwhelming majority of wines are not going to be something you love, so press on. Experiment often, and you will discover wines that you find to be satisfying. 

Six Months Of Van The Wine Man

It has been a busy six months since I started Van The Wine Man, with wine and restaurant service experiences from coast to coast. Thank you for reading and connecting with me along the way, whether online or in-person.  If this is the first time you have visited my blog, or if you want to look back with me, here are my most-popular posts to date:

Dave Danhi Thinks Grilled Cheese Needs Veterans, And Wine

The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel Of DB Brasserie

Wine Buying Strategy

Tasting Experience At Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant

Craig Collins MS On Austin And Professional Service

Best Of New York City Wine Service And Dining

Here are the standouts from my recent visit to New York.

21 Club Steak Tartare and Gin

Wine

1. Bergadano Barolo Sarmassa 2007 at Elio's - A smooth and sweet Barolo to accompany a rich veal dish.
2. E. Guigal Chateauneuf Du Pape 2007 at Peter Luger - On the lighter side, but accompanied the steak well.
3. Claudia Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Dry Red Wine 2003 - Typically good Italian table wine in a Little Italy restaurant.
4. Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011 at Les Halles Downtown
5. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose at Buddakan

Service

1. The Carlyle - See my review
2. Bergdorf Goodman Bar - While the restaurant was booked, with even a wait for the bar, the busy bartender quickly knew just the martini I was after. 
3. Ritz Carlton Battery Park Bar - Bar service at night was good, but Victor took note of me mid-morning. I was looking for the coffee service, which had been taken down, and a light snack for the road. He promptly returned with a large coffee and a box of baked goods, on the house!
4. Peter Luger - Thorough service from seven people over the course of an hour.
5. Les Halles Downtown - Excellent service from one waiter over the course of an hour.

"Side" pasta at Elio's

Dining

1. Elio's - A serious old school Italian eatery served up a fine prosciutto and gorgonzola-stuffed veal chop, but I could not stop eating the bowl of al dente angel hair with garlic and parmesan.
2. 21 Club - The classic "Speakeasy" Steak Tartare, matched by perfectly round, thin, and crisp Chicken Paillard with arugula.
3. Peter Luger Steak House - Steak for two, creamed spinach, extra thick bacon, and extra-extra Peter Luger attitude.
4. Les Halles Downtown - See my review
5. Katz's Delicatessen - Pastrami, period.

Best Cocktail

Brooklyn Gin Martini with Lemon Peel at Bergdorf Goodman Bar

NYC Wine And Dining - Les Halles Downtown

Mignon de Porc Maison

Brasserie Les Halles, with two locations in Manhattan, boasts much history and hype. The juice blend that became V-8 was originated in the building that houses the Park Avenue location. Anthony Bourdain was formerly the executive chef there, and features the restaurant frequently in two cookbooks, Kitchen Confidential and Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook. I recently visited the downtown location on a Friday night.

After a late night arrival near the Financial Distrct, Les Halles Downtown was a casual scene where it was easy to get a table. The main room was dark and seductive, with several couples and groups huddled at tables or along the fabulous bar. The bar stretches nearly the full length of the restaurant on one side, with shelves full of wine lining the back wall on either side of a large clock. Exotic red wood panels break up the golden yellow painted walls, with posters and prints positioned throughout. It is an authentic setting, one you feel you would find in Paris, with dining to match.

I started with Salade d’Auvergne, with arugula, bleu d’Auvergne, roasted walnuts and apples. Dinner included Mignon de Porc “Maison”, a pork tenderloin, with garlic confit and mashed potatoes, and classic Coq au Vin, with plentiful bacon and mushrooms. For beverages, I tasted the Spiced Mojito, made with lemongrass jalapeño syrup, and muddled mint, topped off with ginger beer, and a Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2011. The wine, an entry-level Burgundy, was earthy and dry, with tart berries and good length that paired well with the flavors of the entrees. The wine list was not large, but had good variety among mostly French selections, all attractively priced. Upon another visit, I plan to have one of the prime steaks, billed as "American Beef, French Style".

Salade d'Auvergne

It could have been that I had one of the few tables being served at the end of the night, but service was pleasant and attentive from a primary waiter, who was assisted only for food delivery. While French service style may have a reputation for stiffness and air of superiority, I found myself feeling well-cared for throughout the experience, and would have gladly lingered for a coffee had time permitted. 

Les Halles Downtown delivered a thoroughly satisfying, and reasonably-priced, dining experience, and took me even further out of town than I was. 

Brasserie Les Halles on Park Avenue - 411 Park Avenue South, New York, New York  10016

Brasserie Les Halles Downtown - 15 John Street, New York, New York  10038

Wine Questions Asked: What Are Tannins?

This is a question I hear often, as tannins in wine are often referred too, but seldom explained. Tannins are responsible for the chemically induced reaction in our mouths that brings about the sensation of dryness, astringency, and sometimes bitterness. In short, wines heavy in tannin have spent more time with grape skins and stems, and likely in wooden barrels. When your tongue feels parched even though your mouth is full of red wine, or when the immediate reaction to taking a drink is to pucker your lips, those are tannins at work.

For a more complete explanation, here are two dynamically different links from great wine resources, explaining just what tannins are all about:

• Wine Folly - By Madeline Puckette, concise and colorful, listing wines both heavy and light in tannins 
• WineAnorak - Here, Jamie Goode takes a deeper, scientific approach 

I have a long friendship with tannic wines, having begun my wine journey on California Cabernet, and moving quickly to Barolos and other Italians made from Nebbiolo. Whether or not tannic wines are your preference, these articles will set you straight on the definition, and wines to avoid, or explore! 

Craig Collins, MS On Austin And Professional Service

I met up with Master Sommelier Craig Collins as he took a breath from a schedule that appears overwhelming to a mere mortal. In the process of juggling regular duties as Beverage Director for ELM Restaurant Group's three existing restaurants, he came from staff training for Italic, the new Italian concept whose opening was only two weeks away. These alongside his two-week-old activities as a new father, and all taking place during the excessive busyness of SXSW. Without his head spinning, he took time to drink a beer and share some of his experiences and philosophies on Easy Tiger's hopping deck. 

from italy to austin

Craig shared how he fell in love with wine while studying abroad during college in Tuscany, where he became enamored especially with Italian wines. It was also where he solidified his friendship with Chef Andrew Curren, now owner of ELM. Italy's food and wine culture made a deep impression on him. "Family and food are the most important things there, and family is not just family, but also friends, with closeness and togetherness. I think that's great." The roommates determined to follow their passions of wine and cooking, and often discussed opening a restaurant, with Craig front of house, and Andrew in the back. But soon finding himself working for an Italian-specialized wine importer in Austin, Collins thought he was set. "I had never worked in a restaurant. I thought I was an importer for life."

renowned for service

"Ten years ago, there were no Sommeliers in Austin, and now there are fifteen to twenty beverage-focused programs," he said. Austin is growing and changing, and part of this scenario is an acclaimed, chef-owner and beverage-driven restaurant service culture. Craig is one of a few original Austin Sommeliers that studied together and have remained instrumental in establishing the improvement and expansion. The results include a broader range of fine dining establishments, an emphasis on beverages, and attraction of national attention. Advancement and changes have also come for Collins. A year after he passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, the documentary SOMM contributed to Sommelier becoming a mainstream and highly-sought position, particularly in a growth market like Austin, further increasing the local talent pool. Along the way, Curren convinced his old friend to join ELM to open a French themed restaurant, ARRO. 

Four restaurants later, with more in the works, ELM as well as Austin is booming. Collins and others have ensured that careful attention is directed toward developing the next generation to carry on highest levels of service. He is cautious, though, about the flavor of hype given his profession. "I don’t want to bring back the pretension to the position, or for it to sound like it is a rock star life. Everyone knows now the work it takes to become a Master, but the work after you pass? It’s more. Instead of focusing on a singular goal, you have many focuses, and it's harder. People have expectations." To be sure to keep up with expectations, he maintains an impressive standard for communication. "I try to respond in twelve hours, not twenty-four. That is the expectation I set for myself." I can attest. Unknowingly, I emailed Collins about meeting on the day his son was being born. Even then, he replied by the next morning. 

As Craig described preparing meals and stocking his refrigerator for his wife while she gets used to life with their baby, (a menu of foods that she can eat one-handed) it was clear that delivering satisfying service is his way of life. Roles as family man, restaurant group manager, and industry leader do not prevent him from making even random strangers like me to feel well cared for. Summing up how he manages a stacked and constantly changing schedule so completely and pleasantly, he said. "That is professional service." 

Wine Forum Of Oklahoma - Picks From The Grand Tasting

The Wine Forum of Oklahoma took place last weekend in Stillwater, with wine education sessions and the grand tasting. I tried forty-six wines in the big white tent on the Oklahoma State University campus. Here are the standouts:

1. Stoller Family Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 - A delicious wine from the Dundee Hills of Oregon. Sweet spice, raspberry, and tart earthiness. $45
2. Elyse C'Est Si Bon Naggiar Vineyard 2011 - C'Est Si Bon means "It's so good". This Rhone style blend, primarily Mourvedre and Grenache, delivers. $28
3. Gerard Bertrand Cuvee Thomas Jefferson Cremant De Limoux Brut 2012 - History of Limoux in southern France traces back to the sixteenth century. Excited bubbles, with flowery sweetness. $18
4. Canard Vineyard Zinfandel 2011 - Rich and ripe fruits, with spices and vanilla hint. A big, thick-necked Zin. $45
5. Spann Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2011 - A pleasantly smooth and round wine, for drinking alone or lighter dining. $27