Post-Holiday Wine Shopping On A Budget

If your wine budget is short, here's an international mixed case of available and affordable bottles to enjoy while you replenish your savings:

• Sebastiani Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon - $16
• The Black Chook McLaren Vale Shiraz - $18
• Tommasi Valpolicella Rafael - $17
• Charles Smith Wines The Velvet Devil Merlot - $15
• Silvertop Malbec - $10
• M. Chapoutier Cotes-du-Rhone Belleruche - $15
• Michael Pozzan Wines Annabella Carneros Pinot Noir - $15
• Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay - $14
• Gruet Winery Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10
• Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough - $18
• Bodega Del Abad Dom Bueno Godello - $15
• Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Kabinett - $19

Champagne Dreams Are Not Restricted To December

If you're going to drink Champagne, December is the time you're most likely to do it. Three times more bubbly is sold this month than any other throughout the year. While we cannot all be like Winston Churchill, I for one, enjoy Champagne year-round. However, I have regular conversations with those who do not care for the wine, or who have the impression that finer Champagne is only for an elite class.

I often attempt to persuade someone that expresses dislike for Champagne that they have not experienced good Champagne. Take time to learn the basics to help you choose the right bubbles for you, like the different styles of Champagne. I enjoyed the advice in this interview with famed Sommelier Aldo Sohm. There is great diversity in sparkling flavor and feel.

Regarding the air of upper class, it's just another wine, people. Like any, there are numerous big names and three-figure price tags, and better bottles will cost fifty-dollars-plus. If you can afford the Doms and Cristals, they're an elevated experience. But the volume of choices in wine, including cost, is not to the exclusion of bubbles. There is a generous supply of sparking wine in all styles for under twenty dollars, and excellent non vintage Champagnes can be found in the thirty-dollar price range. 

With the selection of good wine available today, there should be a Champagne or sparking wine for you, maybe even one you will enjoy on a regular basis. You just might have to try several different styles and labels before you find it. Wait, is that a problem? 

Here are some personal picks:

• Pol Roger Brut Reserve - $65
• Gosset Grande Reserve Brut - $50
• Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs - $29
• Toad Hollow Amplexus Cremant Brut - $18
• Domaine Saint Vincent Brut - $10

Do you drink Champagne outside of events and special occasions?

Sold Out - When You Can't Find Your Favorite Wine

You've worked your wine buying strategy, tasted countless wines, and discovered a standout. You've bought the preferred bottle numerous times, but now the rack at your wine store is empty. The helpful staff searches, but the report comes back that it is no longer available. You check inventory at nearby stores, and even online, but it's all gone. You remember that new vintage of the same wine is in-stock, so you give it a try, but it's...different. Not bad, just not what the previous year was. 

With wines produced in limited quantities, this scenario can be expected. But do not despair! With so many choices available, there is a new favorite, quite possibly a better one, waiting to be discovered.

For example, I personally enjoy Carneros Pinot Noirs. In a few years time, as availability of my chosen wines have dried up, I have explored my way through a series of five go-to bottles from four producers. I would be excited to find one of the older wines, but I am just as satisfied with the current offerings.

what to do

Think about trying something geographically similar, a label from the same area and year as your favored wine. Or, move into wines made from the same grape in another region or country. Your trusted wine store representative will be glad to help with suggestions. 

Continue exercising your tasting strategy, and you'll soon find new wines to rave about.

Wine PG - Children and Alcohol

At the time of year when family gatherings are most prevalent, the question arrises of whether drinking with your children is an acceptable or potentially disastrous concept. I recall my Grandad sipping Bourbon and Coke on such occasions, the only times I witnessed any evidence that he drank. I was ten the first time he offered me a very small version of such a beverage, which I cautiously accepted. The early parameters of alcohol consumption became set in my mind, intentionally or not. Drinking was for family and celebration, and never to excess.

Family attitudes and examples with alcohol can have positive impact. This is not encouragement or endorsement of underage or excessive consumption of alcohol. I'm not talking about providing alcohol for a teen party. If the parents are going to drink, It makes sense that if drinking is done with disciplined moderation, and they openly educate their children on potential dangers as well as safe use of alcohol, those children will be better prepared to act responsibly with alcohol.

In the United States, while firmly outlawing adults providing alcohol to underage drinkers who are not their children, most states provide legal exceptions that allow children of the parent to drink if the parent is present, in private settings. In Europe, legal drinking ages are lower, and acceptance of young drinkers is widespread, especially when accompanied by parents. Also of interest, alcohol in European countries is often regarded and consumed as a food product, rather than an exotic and evil intoxicant. This observance can make a big difference in a youthful temperament. Advanced Sommelier Paul Botamer said at his home, he gives his teenage daughter, "just a little sip, so she knows there’s nothing mysterious going on.” I have shared tastes of beverages with my teenage children, who likely know more about the subject than they care to. The presentation from parents to children of what alcohol is, represents, and how it can be properly appreciated can be a powerful influence. 

Studies and opinions support both sides of the drinking with family argument. Caution must be exercised, of course, for every unique individual and event. Due to availability and aggressive marketing, children will learn about alcohol in one way or another, and probably at a younger age than we typically imagine. Whether or not samples are included, a balanced schooling by parents, where alcohol is neither a dark secret nor consumed to an extreme, might prove most effective.

Las Vegas Wine, Service, and Dining Winners

After researching dozens of restaurants and trying thirteen, here are my top Vegas recommendations.

Wine

1. Giordanino Teresio Colline Saluzzesi Saluces Nebbiolo 2006 at Due Forni Pizza and Wine - Dry and leathery, with red berries and hints of mint. A nice surprise by the glass. A select list of predominantly Italian varietals to compliment the menu.
2. Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010 at db Brasserie - Click for my reviews
3. Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2009 at Chada Thai and Wine - Dry minerals with grapefruit largesse and more citrus. Sweet on its own but a perfect match with spicy Thai. A broad list beginning with Rieslings, but encompassing the world of wine at great prices.
4. Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV at db Brasserie
5. Fabricca di San Martino Arcipressi 2012 at Chada Thai and Wine - A solid drink-now Tuscan blend, juicy with a medium finish.

Service

1. db Brasserie - A thoroughly satisfying experience, from bar to table, led by Head Sommelier Devin Zendel. See my review here.
2. Bouchon Bistro - Thomas Keller's spot on the strip. They gladly seated my party fifteen minutes before lunch closed, and gave us full attention until well after. Also, the head server offered me coffee to go, a personal difference maker in service.
3. Due Forni Pizza and Wine - West toward Red Rock Canyon, I was thrilled by the small but diverse Italian wine list and my server's constant attention. Management here clearly has serious Italian wine fans in mind.
4. Chada Thai and Wine - Also off the path, small and easy to miss, but don't! Outstanding food with the best value wine list in Vegas awaits. Sommelier and chef Bank Atcharawan has built a wine and food experience around his love for Riesling, but the entire list is of high-quality picks and best-value prices. Servers on Thanksgiving were attentive and helpful with food and wine menus, and happy to secure us a cab.
5. Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Not a destination, but if spending time at Mandalay Bay, a go-to option, 24/7. I received pleasant and fast service during visits at all times of the day, whether picking up coffee, breakfast at the bar, or table service. 

Food

1. Steak Frites at db Brasserie - Perfectly cooked flat iron, and a bargain on the Prix Fixe menu. Click for my review.
2. Spicy Herbs Spring Rolls at Chada Thai and Wine - Fresh and crisp, with ginger, lime, mint, and spicy for sure. 
3. Duck Panang at Chada Thai and Wine - Crispy duck with lime and a delicious spicy Panang sauce.
4. Hachis de Boeuf at Bouchon Bistro - Gourmet corned beef hash with eggs and toast.
5. NY Style Pastrami at Citizens Kitchen & Bar - Thick cut and tender with a spicy mustard. I didn't miss cheese at all.

Best cocktail

French 75 at Bouchon Bistro

The best in wine and service are often found in the same place, and dining under the bright lights of Vegas is no exception. It was clear which restaurants give priority to their wine program, and to service and training. 

Where are your favorite places to wine and dine in Las Vegas?

Before You Travel, Where's The Wine?

As a systematic consumer, I do excessive amounts of research to ensure that my experiences are satisfying. This is especially the case before traveling, and is work I consider critical to happiness and well worth the effort. Here are my best practices for uncovering the outstanding before you hit the road.

Search best of...

Most cities have a dominant magazine and entertainment newspaper, both of which publish annual Best Of lists, with fairly thorough and specific dining and drinking reviews. Also scan newspaper food and wine sections and national publications like Food and Wine or Travel and Leisure that focus on outstanding experiences. Examine these, giving considerable attention to the publications' choices, and less to the readers' votes. Look for your personal keywords. (Mine are Fine Dining, Sommeliers, Wine, Service, and Servers) When you find an interesting target, go to the web site, give it a once over, and save it in a list of destinations for that city if it passes the eye test. 

The next search is for local, high-traffic blogs about food and wine in the city. On blogs by respectable writers, you are likely to find more choices, but this is primarily for in-depth information, and confirmation of your interest in your initial list of options. You will also learn of news and events that you may want to take into consideration for your travel itinerary.

Social-driven sites like Urban Spoon, Eater, Yelp, and Trip Advisor can deliver additional layers of confirmation. This is chiefly visual, through the volumes of non-staged photographs posted by diners. Low ratings on these sites are a red flag for me, leading to further scrutiny of a potential choice, while high ratings and extreme comments are taken with a grain of salt.

Narrow the field

Once you compile a satisfactory list of alternatives, make closer inspections of the chosen few. Which ones have a version of your favorite dish, an acclaimed wine list, or an intriguing new adventure? Does the wine list have a good selection with descriptions and years, not to mention reasonable prices? View the "about" and staff pages, looking for indications that the restaurant caters to your style and preferences. Contemplate the area surrounding the establishment, it's convenience to your location, dress, (yes, still) and hours of operation.

If you're involving others in the dining decisions, now is the time to share the short list with your traveling companions. I provide a list of links with brief notes about my findings when asking for opinions. 

Even if you have made your decisions by now, go ahead and look at social media. Many restaurants, chefs, and sommeliers are active socially, and eager to connect and share. There are often valuable pieces of information, such as limited offers or special events, that are delivered exclusively via social. 

take note

So you have started early, made reservations for potentially great dining, and built up your anticipation. Always do a last-minute review for breaking news or changes at the restaurants. It is disappointing to realize too late that the entree you were excited to try went out with last season's menu, that the restaurant is closed for vacation, or closed. While traveling, make notes about your meals, beverages, and service, however brief. You will begin to notice your own trends, your personal Big Wine and Food Data, and also the correlation between good wine and excellent service.

Pre-travel research takes time, but pays off with fulfilling wining and dining. Wherever your destination, delve into the wealth of information that is readily available, and make every meal an enjoyable experience.

The Total Guest Experience - Devin Zendel of DB Brasserie

Devin Zendel is an Advanced Sommelier and Head Sommelier at db Brasserie in Las Vegas. For the past fifteen years, he has served at acclaimed Vegas restaurants including Wolfgang Puck, Carnevino, and Eiffel Tower Restaurant. Before a recent dinner, he shared some of his experiences with wine, and insightful comments about the demanding lifestyle required to succeed as a top wine professional in an extremely competitive city.

What drew you to wine and led to wine as a career?

"My mother and aunt drank wine daily while I was growing up. I was young, drinking terrible beer, then I had a Napa Sauv Blanc that was an eye-opening experience for me. I was working at Puck as a server, and became fascinated with the world of wine. You learn how big wine is, and that it is never ending."

"I get to drink wine all the time, and business travel became a pleasure. I can design a floor plan, or I can taste five Burgundies." 

What is it like working for Daniel Boulud in Las Vegas?

"Previously I had been a floor Somm. db Brasserie is a chance for the total package. There is an old school mentality here. The most important thing is still food service and the total guest experience. The staff is inspired, impassioned. It stands out among the mostly union restaurants on the Strip." 

"Coaching the staff on by the glass knowledge is critical. We make sure they taste any new wines, give them technical sheets so that they know all the wines, and role play with wine presentation. Food as well. We are big on their continuing education, and I plan for full, around the world training as the restaurant and staff grow." 

"Vegas is very competitive, with lots of movement among somms. A friend of mine said one year in Vegas is like three years in (another large city). But it's nice, too. There are lots of events and people to meet. You don't want to leave the events, even though it's late and you're going to pay for it early in the morning, because there are so many more people to meet." 

"It's a tough profession to get started in. You kind of have to be the guy in the corner with the "Will Work for Wine" sign. It's different now. The day of the old stuffy sommelier in a tuxedo, with only a couple of guys doing it, is over. Even before the documentary, it was changing, with the somms being the coolest people in the restaurant. Since the documentary, the Court says applications are up forty-percent in the last two years. Now, if you're not established, you have even more competition. No one will pay you at the start, and it's hard to break into. Without Certified or Advanced credentials, some jobs won't even interview you. It's a necessity."

How is the quest for Master Sommelier going?

"I've passed theory, which is good, because that is all textbooks and studying, and no life. They said I was close on service last time. Service isn't really about service. It's about thoughtlessly, flawlessly, executing perfect service. There's cutting the foil perfectly, pouring the wine perfectly, but it's not about that. All of that just happens. In my last service exam, they asked me about (a particular) Barbaresco. But it's not a Barbaresco, it's a Barolo from Serralunga d'Alba. Then they asked if (winery) makes any other wines. All of this conversation was going on while I was doing the other things. And I was on the clock. It's about theory. MS is a way of life, and you don't pass unless you live it. We're the weirdoes sneaking champagne in a plastic bottle into a movie. It's always about the wine you're drinking." 

"It's taxing. You are always on when you're on the floor. I love working in the restaurant, interacting with tables, but I can see as you get older wanting to get off the floor. It's hard labor. I've had to ice my back, or wonder why my elbow is sore. There are financial considerations, perks and other opportunities once you become a Master. You can be an author, a speaker, a teacher. I think about when I was just getting started, in a big room full of people working on Certified. Once you're a Master you still have to earn teaching privileges in the Court. But to be the one teaching the room full of candidates, that sounds pretty amazing." 

Read about my excellent wine and service experience with Devin and db Brasserie here.

db Brasserie, Las Vegas - Wine and Service Experience

db Brasserie, the latest concept from French American icon Daniel Boulud, located in the Venetian, Las Vegas, and surrounded by brands from his celebrity chef contemporaries, still finds ways to stand out among wine and service experiences.

My visit occurred the day before Thanksgiving, with heavy activity before the holiday, and amidst the early Black Friday shopping frenzy. Service began long before my meal, as I happened by the restaurant several hours before my reservation. I requested a particular style of booth, which was accommodated promptly. I spent time at the bar during the daily happy hour, where several wines, beers, and craft cocktails were promoted. The green water glasses call attention to the decor, which are further highlighted by touches of green in the various food presentations. The bar is smaller, but gives the feeling of being larger than it is. I was drawn to the display of glassware by Stolzle, and the lineup of hand-labled cocktail ingredients. Large screen televisions are above the bar, and visible throughout many parts of the restaurant. I enjoyed a Lucien Albrecht Cremant de-Alsace Brute Blanc De Blancs NV, which was crispy and refreshing with apple and citrus.

Seating was immediate, in the requested booth with a full view of the restaurant. The lead server made introductions and delivered food and wine menus within seconds. Shortly thereafter, Head Sommelier Devin Zendel greeted the table with Champagne flutes, and announced, "I am going to pour you something." He returned with a bottle of Pierre Paillard Cuvee Daniel Brut NV, and filled the glasses around the table. The Daniel, specifically chosen by the restaurant group, was delicious, with citrus and striking bread dough flavors. I savored the brut while discussing the menu and wine options. The wine list offers an extensive selection of French alongside American bottles, with a broad price range. I asked for Devin's recommendations, hoping to find a new French favorite. He pointed out a couple of wines based on our desired styles, including the Domaine Tempier Bandol 2010. He spoke of the wine's predominant mourvedre, and how Tempier was the leading producer of wines from this grape and the Bandol appellation. He opened, checked, and decanted the wine at a station within eyesight before presenting it to the table. It was delightfully elegant and long-lasting. Still young and a full of potential, it had leather and floral aromas with dark berries. It also paired nicely with the dinner entrees.

The meal began with puffy Gouda bread treats, compliments of the chef. The Tunisian Lamb came as two chops, with lamb sausage, and lemony spinach. The Yankee, one of three signature DB NY Burgers offered, was impressive even with the hype. Coq Au Vin from the Prix Fixe menu was tender, in a very red wine preparation with mushrooms and hints of bacon. The star, though, of db Brasserie and my entire Las Vegas dining tour, was the Steak Frites, also from the Prix Fixe menu. A generously cut flat iron steak, with a spicy-seasoned crust, cooked to the perfect medium rare temperature. It was one of the top steaks in my considerable beefeating history. To finish the meal, the table shared excellent desserts, a citrusy Panna Cotta, and Black and White Fondant, a flourless chocolate cake with white chocolate ganache and vanilla gelato.

Overall service was fast acting, efficient, and friendly. Almost nothing could be criticized, extremely rare for me at a full dining event. The worst I can say is that I poured the wine once. With the Head Sommelier taking the lead at tableside, I felt completely cared for, and somewhat special. Devin knew just where to go in style and price for wine selection. I was glad to see contemporary, yet still appropriate, glassware in play, and enjoyed the sight of the wine being opened and prepared just so at a dedicated area separate from the table. Activity by the team of servers was understated, subtly consistent and thorough, without making too big a show of things or interrupting by their presence. All requests in seating and food preparation were satisfied, and knowledgeable answers to all questions were provided. In the bar, five bartenders and servers buzzed about, displaying comfortable teamwork and communication. It was a pleasant, smooth running operation.

db Brasserie, open only seven months in ultra-competitive Las Vegas, was a highlight of my experiences, and appears on its way to taking the lead in Vegas wine and fine dining. 

Read my conversation with Head Sommelier Devin Zendel here.

The Gift Of Wine

I am frequently asked what wines make good gifts. I find that most any wine is a gift that is welcomed at most any time, but the month of December has far and away the most wine sales. If you plan to give wine, but find making a choice of which wine to give perplexing, here are ten ideas to assist and make your shopping experience fun. 

1. "I love this wine" - Do you know the wines your recipient enjoys most? It doesn't get easier than giving what they like. Even if your budget is limited, your local wine shop can guide you to an acceptable, similar choice.
2. What's on the menu? - If there is a meal with your gift giving occasion, an internet search will turn up solid suggestions of wine styles to pair with it. 
3. Consider the setting - Is it topical, like exploring wines of New Zealand, or an 80s Punk Rock party? Are the hosts wine connoisseurs, or just getting started? Indoor or outdoor? Think about what feels right for the theme, location, and timing.  
4. Introduce something new - Help someone expand their wine appreciation. Someone that likes California Merlot may like a French version, or be ready to move into red blends. If you're giving wine to someone that typically drinks reds, try out a lighter white like a European Pinot Grigio. Or, if you don't know what is preferred, offer your favorite wine find. 
5. A significant year - Choose a year that is meaningful to the recipient, or to the wine. Give a bottle from their anniversary year, or a wine from one of those highly-acclaimed vintages in their favorite wine region.  
6. A/B Testing - Most people will enjoy a gift of wine, but two bottles will make you really popular. Red and white...California vs Oregon...New world or old world...$10 or $20? (or $50, or...) The choices are many, and becoming greater. 
7. Red White and Bubbly - Simply a three-pack of your recommended wines of each style. A generous tasting experience that extends the memory of your gift as the wines are savored at different times.
8. Impressive - For a special gift for the right person, the most prominent and acclaimed names and vintages of the world are readily available. You will certainly pay a correspondingly remarkable price for more renowned names or years. But if you want to blow someone's mind, your search will yield mind-blowing opportunities, and with some diligence, you will likely find "bargains" in this territory from reliable retail sources.  
9. Wine they can't buy - An elevated version of number eight. You might already have a prize wine you're willing to part with, which makes it a truly personal gift. Your local wine shop might have a back room with some exclusive bottles, or know the distributors that do. Restaurants are also possible sources. Outside of a private stash, this one is all about connections.
10. Accessorize - If you just can't choose a wine, give a practical gift to help enjoy other wines. From a double-hinged wine bottle opener, to the right shaped glasses for their favorite wine, wine equipment will be a useful and ongoing reminder of your thoughtfulness.

Enjoy a little research and creativity for maximum wine gifting happiness. 

Red Wines That Are Primo!

Here are some outstanding reds to stand beside last week's white wine picks from the Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits tasting:

Ad Lucem Daystar Syrah Red Willow Vineyard 2012 - Dark and velvety, with smoke, pepper, and spice. A long, smooth finish. Rhone style, 100% Syrah from a single vineyard. $35

Gehricke Los Carneros Pinot Noir 2012 - Powerful, juicy red berries with smokey wood, leather and pepper. A great first release. $37

Peter Paul Russian River Valley Mill Station Pinot Noir 2012 - Another version of big Pinot, darker red berries and spices. A hint of cola to make it dance. $38

Tamarack Cellars Cabernet Franc Wahluke Slope 2012 - Round and ripe, and packing heat. 100% Cabernet Franc with a big burst of cherry-red fruit and length. $29

Domaine de la Colline St-Jean Vacqueyras 2011 - Dense, chewy, French funk from this blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. $19

Write It Down

Everyone has enjoyed an impressive wine, and later lapsed on the details. "It was...red...really good" A critical component to your wine buying strategy that is frequently forgotten is the recording of your personal tasting notes. But this sounds like work, and wine is for fun. Here is why you want to invest time in note taking about the wines you taste, and how this will increase your enjoyment.

"I wish I could remember that Sancerre we had in..." 

Note taking is critical because no opinion of a wine is as meaningful as your opinion. If you plan to drink and share wine experiences, shouldn't they be built around the wines you like most? Tasting notes will help insure that this is the case. Academic and scientific research on the effects of note taking is bountiful, and agrees that notes assist with long-term retention and better decision-making. If you think, "I'm not a student", you should reconsider. The appreciation of wine is an unceasing education, whether you are taking part-time classes, or seeking a PHD, and the fields of study are expanding with so many choices available. 

All Of It

Note taking is forgotten as a result of wine experiences often belonging to one of those "in the moment" scenarios. Which is unfortunate, as wine is often a catalyst or contributor to life's most memorable and joyous events. Take some time, however brief, to describe the outstanding details of the wines you taste. What you like and don't like, smells, tastes, years, and prices. Document the experience surrounding the wines. Where you were, whom you shared it with, and what you ate at it. Briefly pause to relate it to previous experiences. Is the wine better, a better value, or a distinctively new discovery? More specifics mean faster and accurate recollection for your wine buying activities.

Simple note taking will dramatically improve your remembrance of the memories you've made with wine. Better yet, by saving your unique expressions about the wines you taste, you will quickly become fully equipped to recall or recommend wines that are sure to please. Every time.

Primo White Wine Picks

Here are white wines that stood out at a recent tasting. Thanks to my friends at Primo's Fine Wine and Spirits for a great event. 

Anne Amie Vineyards Cuvee A Muller-Thurgau 2012 - Something really different from Oregon, here. A huge bouquet of flowers and variety of citrus. Very few winemakers are using this grape in the United States. $17

Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2011 - Stoney and solid from this consistent favorite. $43

Roederer Estate Brut Rose - Powerful yet smooth bubbles. $35

Hugl-Wimmer Gruner Veltliner 2013 - Power-packed and dry, with citrus flavors that last. $15

The red wine stars from this event will follow next week.

SOMM - The Addictively Emotional Wine Film

I originally saw the documentary film SOMM at a screening before it gained widespread distribution and fame, and was immediately thirsty to see it again. The film follows four Sommeliers as they strive for the ultimate prize of the wine trade, the designation of Master Sommelier. An escalating roller coaster ride of emotion accompanies the narrative of their struggles for greatness. 

Shattering Wine Glasses

Subtle tensions progressively mount for each of the main characters as the story is told. These guys may have been born with senses of taste beyond what is normal, but equally impressive is their passionate determination to earn the elusive Master diploma. You are taken into private settings to witness the full range of sentiments, from happiness to despair. The depth of feeling one can associate with these men as they prepare for the biggest event of their lives is vivid. Especially is this so during the intensive scenes surrounding the MS exam, which maintains a ninety-percent failure rate. The dedication to the craft and devotion to becoming authorities of wine and service exhibited by the candidates is admirable.

"Fresh Cut Garden Hose"

Telling unique stories of individual wines is a primary responsibility for a Sommelier, but developing accurate descriptions can be challenging. And entertaining. You can learn a tremendous amount about wine tasting by observing the Somms as they prepare for the test. But this is not a stuffy or tiresome educational documentary. Absorbing and humorous storytelling further illustrates the scope of near obsession required to advance, and how this affects the candidates, their families, and friends. Festive and touching moments that emerge from following a closely knit group of guys are interwoven throughout the film. Their endearing qualities pleasantly balance and soften the profound anxiety that is apparent. 

Somms as Stars

The vision of a stiff, stodgy, Sommelier of old is dead, driven to the grave in part by SOMM. A younger, enthusiastic, and personable Sommelier is on the scene, more focused on hands-on service and training than glowering in a corner. Undoubtedly, the film has contributed to the dramatic increase in applications received by the Court of Master Sommeliers. While very few of the new breed will achieve Master, or even Advanced status, the positive attention and broadened pool of talent is bound to improve overall wine and restaurant service. Director Jason Wise has given a gift to wine lovers and fine diners beyond his captivating wine documentary.

SOMM will make you laugh, cheer, and possibly bring a tear to your eye. You will feel deep sympathy for the cast, even as you imagine that they must be insane. If you are into wine at all, you will watch Somm again and again. Grab a favorite bottle, and push play.

Have you seen SOMM? What is your favorite scene?

Download SOMM or Buy on DVD 

Wine Buying Strategy

Wine is to be savored, to make a meal into an experience, or for celebration. Why complicate the good times with a term like strategy? With so many choices available, it can be challenging to determine the wines that are right for you. Whether you are desiring to expand into different styles, or just beginning to drink wine regularly, there are benefits to following a basic strategic plan for buying wine.

Drink More Wine

Plan from the beginning to try different wines, and don't be satisfied after tasting only five or ten. I'm talking dozens! Initially, try whites and reds of several different varietals. Be alert to tasting opportunities at restaurants and retailers, and make a habit of asking for tastes of wine by the glass options at restaurants. After you find some standouts, try similar wines from different producers and years. Also try wines made from the same grapes in other countries. As you taste, record each wine and style and what you like or why you dislike them, and keep your notes organized. You will soon have personal big (wine) data and telling trends of your preferences. Determine where you want your wine journey to take you next, and prepare for some homework.  

Due Diligence

Do you want more of your favorites, or to go in another direction? Are you looking for values, or to experiment with some higher-priced options. With a destination in mind, and armed with details of your personal inclinations, take advantage of the vast online resources ready to contribute to your exploration. By following several preferred writers, you will receive an ongoing stream of commentary on all things wine. This is only the beginning, as included will be links to additional related wine talk. Combine these with your own observations, and you can really geek out on wine. But then you may not have time to try the wines. So don't over-saturate. Pick two or six or seventeen authorities, read a few minutes each day, take more notes, and continue your advancement.

Good Is What You Like 

The outstanding opportunity in all these choices is that you will find as many different wines as you desire, that are available, affordable, and delicious! Key to successful wine enjoyment is remembering that you make the rules on what wines are "right" for you. If you like it, then it is right, and you are likely to be surprised at the number of wines that qualify as such. Approach wine with the expectation of tasting in volume that would impress a wine critic. Put some effort into researching and recording your experiences. You will find benefits in confidence, savings, and will always be drinking the right wines.

What is your wine buying strategy? Next week, I will talk more about notes and why you want to write them.

Wine and Turkey Talk

Turkey Time

If there is a traditional meal of turkey and all its trimmings in your near future, does it require a similarly predictable wine? I think not. The likelihood of a larger group of people with a multitude of tastes and preferences is high, and the ease of accessibility to experiment with diverse and affordable wines that work for such a meal has never been greater. Why not broaden out in your wine and food pairing experience? Here are a variety of wine styles and recommendations, from expected to out of the norm, for turkey dinner on any day.

Reds

Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Bright, with dominant red berries, spices, and hints of sweetness, even cola.  

• Frei Brothers Reserve Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - $20
• Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $52

Cote de Nuits Burgundy - Elegant expressions of Pinot Noir, complex, and earthy. Narrowing further, Nuits-St-Georges are typically reasonable in price.

• Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-St-Georges - $55

Washington Syrah - Heat up with Rhone-style beauties aplenty. If Syrah is too hot and heavy for you, try a Washington Grenache or Cabernet Franc.

• Abeja Estate Syrah - $40
• K Vintners The Boy Grenache - $45

Whites

Oregon is turning out increasing numbers of intriguing white wines, with one to fit any occasion. 

• Brooks Willamette Valley Riesling - $20
• Alloro Chardonnay - $28

Sancerre - Aromatic and refreshing Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. 

• Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre - $28

Champagne - Bubbles and the bird. It may surprise you.

• Gosset Grande Reserve Brut - $50

What is your style: Traditionalist, contrarian, or both? Share your favorite wine and turkey finds.

White Sand Weekend - Henderson Park Inn, Destin

Henderson Park Inn of Destin, Florida, delivered on a reputation as one of the best and most romantic beach destinations in the United States. Adults-only and steps away from a private white sand beach and blue ocean, it felt far removed from the bustling communities nearby.

Overall service at the Inn was pleasant. Reservations for a holiday (Labor Day) weekend were challenging to arrange, but after several conversations that included ongoing reassurances, we were accommodated as requested. An airport car service employed by the Inn was efficient. Upon our late evening arrival, we were greeted by a staff member, who did not flinch to help with our luggage. The front desk was friendlier, describing the amenities and securing for us a dinner table at the on-sight Beach Walk Cafe, even though it was after restaurant hours. A variety of front desk staffers maintained enthusiastic and eager service throughout our three-night stay. 

A daily breakfast buffet and omelette bar were cleanly executed, with entertaining interaction with the staff behind the bar. Table service, cared for by the same staff members, was fast and frequent, never allowing the coffee to cool. Service at a daily happy hour in the tiki bar on the deck was similarly quick and attentive. It could be improved by additional staff, with only one bartender for up to twenty patrons at a time in a confined space. 

The service during dinner, the only full-service hours of the day, was passable on all three nights, with inconsistent attention, questionable knowledge of what was available, and one dramatic mid-meal delay of over an hour. The Manager was helpful in every instance, personally seeing to our eventual satisfaction. There was a very well-stocked bar, although it was available only during dinner hours. The wine list included a nice variety of styles and prices to accompany the broad menu, the highlight of which was the smoked tomato soup, poured over diced shrimp. I tried several entrees, including fresh seafoods, and all were well presented and flavorful. Based on the service, I would not seek out the Cafe independent of a stay at the Inn. However, it was extremely convenient to have it literally next door to our room, and I had no desires to explore dining options elsewhere. 

I was looking for an upscale, near all-inclusive beach retreat in Destin. Relaxing and somehow secluded, Henderson Park Inn is a spot worthy of consideration for such a getaway. 

So Many Choices

Wine is more abundant, accessible, and exciting than ever before! Over a series of weekly posts, I will write about developing a personalized, systematic approach of wine discovery to help make the potentially complicated buying process an enjoyable experience.

To start, here is a quick overview of the wine buying landscape. In a twenty-year period ending in 2012, we have witnessed a five-fold increase in producing wineries in the United States, which now number well over eight-thousand. Forty-one states produced wine in 2013. Additionally, there are an inestimable number of garagistas and home-vintners. And these are only the U.S. statistics, with approximately ninety-percent of wine produced in other countries. Everyone, it seems, is making wine.

Wines of some quality are rated by influential critics like Robert Parker, and still more are reviewed by individuals on socially-oriented websites like CellarTracker. Wineries, trade groups, distributors, retailers, and restaurants expose the public to marketing and public relations for select products. The internet moves the surrounding wine discussion at a breakneck pace. More wines are for sale in more states in more stores and restaurants…

With all the great wine choices, and the noise accompanying them, acquiring the wines you like may appear to be an overwhelming proposition. But the selection of wines and associated information are great developments for wine drinkers. Now, every wine you drink should be a pleasurable experience. We just have to keep the buying process simple, and fun!

Next week, I will write about a strategic foundation for your personal wine buying system.

Wine Picks For Your "Thirst"

I recently tasted newly released wines in the portfolio of Thirst Wine Merchants. Here are my standout picks: 

1. Bodegas LAN Vina Lanciano Reserva 2007 - Spicy, chewy Spanish Tempranillo/Mazuelo blend. SRP $25
2. Sean Minor Point North Pinot Noir 2012 - I'm a big fan of their Carneros Pinots, and their Oregon offering is a winner! SRP $22
3. Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc Estate Vineyard 2013 - Delicious, gravely with a mouthful of citrus. SRP $40
4. K Vintners Clifton Hill Syrah Wahluke Slope 2011 - Bold (of course) with smoked meats and spices, and it sticks around. SRP $40
5. Feraud-Brunel Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2011 - Solid Cotes-du-Rhone, with tobacco spice and leather. SRP $18

It's All About The Experience - Paul Botamer of Fearing's

As an element of my exploration of wine and restaurant service, I remain on the lookout for conversations with wine celebrities, both in and outside of the industry. To follow up on my review of Fearing's, here is my conversation with Wine Director and Advanced Sommelier Paul Botamer.

Paul Botamer is full of wit and wine wisdom to embellish your experience at Fearing’s Restaurant, Dallas.  When I found him in the Rattlesnake Bar, I asked, “Are you Paul?” With a look of concern, he replied, “It depends how much money I owe you,” before cracking a grin. Following introductions, he offered comments on his philosophy of wine service.

Regarding how he got his start in wine service: Paul was a history major when he had opportunity work at a fine dining restaurant. At age twenty-two, while keeping himself fit to play college basketball, he had not even had a drink. The restaurant employed several sommeliers, and he was quickly exposed to wine's historical and social relevance. He realized wine service was what he wanted pursue. “I saw that I can never get bored, and the more you know about wine, you realize how much you don’t know.”  

On emotional connections made with wine: “Wine is a social experience. If you have a bottle of wine in a picnic basket with the right young lady, it doesn’t matter if it’s a four-dollar bottle of Riesling. You will remember that wine.” Paul spoke of the social significance of wine, and how the sight of a wine label that is connected to a special experience, or simply hearing the wine's name, remains impactful throughout one's life. 

On working with celebrity chef Dean Fearing: "Dean gets everyone on the staff involved." He spoke about how easy it becomes to get excited about the resulting menu. “Imagine what it’s like for a young staff member, just out of culinary school, and Dean Fearing asks, “”What do you think?”” 

Criteria for appearing on the wine list at Fearing's: “Everything on the list should be something I am excited for you try. There are so many great wines out there, if I’m not excited about it, you shouldn’t be trying it. There’s just not any sense in that.” 

On coaching the staff on wine and food parings: Paul encourages passionate recommendations. “There are over four-hundred wines here, and for anything someone orders probably forty wines will pair with it. I tell (the staff) to find the wines you are most excited about, your passion will show, and (the diners) will see how excited you are, then they get excited.” 

Paul later escorted my teenage daughter to me, and commented about wine with his daughter. “When we make dinner at home, I give my daughter, who is sixteen, just a little sip, so she knows there’s nothing mysterious going on.” I heartily agree with positioning wine as educational and appreciable rather than reserved for mindless guzzling and secrecy.

Summing up what to expect at Fearing's, Paul stated, “Dean provides people with a dining experience. Our customers can afford whatever they want, and what they really want is that experience.” 

Fearing's Restaurant, Dallas - Wine and Service Experience

Service is the factor that makes a restaurant experience stand out, for better or worse. With so many good choices of what and where to eat available, how you are made to feel throughout the dining event carries almost equal influence on your satisfaction as the meal itself. I will write about excellent service received around wine and fine dining events, beginning with Fearing's Restaurant in Dallas.

I was greeted promptly by my lead waiter, and I described my plans to have Dean's renowned Tortilla Soup and several wines by the glass. I expressed a desire to try Texas wines, and the Inwood Estates Tempranillo-Cabernet was suggested. Before I even considered asking, he offered to bring me a taste. The bottle was presented, and a generous taste was poured into the large Riedel glass. My waiter conversed about the wine while I finished the taste, which lasted several sips, before pouring  the full glass. He talked further about Texas wines, explaining that more and more are being produced. "Not at the level of California," he said, "but quality." The dark, spicy, and leathery Inwood Estates blend was just what I had hoped for, and complimented the tortilla soup nicely.

I was thinking about a lighter wine to follow the blend, and asked my waiter what he would try. He mentioned a Pinot Noir, paused briefly, then said, "Let me check in the wine cellar and see if we have anything open." I was intrigued. He returned with a new bottle of Pinot Noir and a previously opened bottle of Caymus Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet, 40th Anniversary 2012, both of which he poured "tastes" of in appropriate glasses. Then I was excited.

He explained that the Caymus had been open for two days, but that it was still good, and he was right. I noted that only the cork was used to close the bottle, no vacuum or synthetic plug, and that it had been climate controlled. After I was visibly impressed by the initial swallow, he emptied the remainder of the bottle in my glass, what I describe as a full pour-plus. He said, "Often people order wine and don’t finish it, so we save it but can’t drink it ourselves. So, we give it to you." The wine still had a lot going on, and was velvety, inky, and vibrant. This was a quality wine that had received skillful preservation.  

Next, it was time to taste the Elizabeth Rose Pinot Noir. It was lighter, as I had requested earlier, and refreshing with a subtle earthiness. This was a screw-top bottle, which I was impressed to see as a featured wine. I asked my waiter how he liked working with the huge selection of wines at Fearing's. He enthusiastically described how he gets to taste all the wines, "new ones, too", and how it was critical that he know the wines so that he could properly describe and recommend them. 

Afterward, I retired to the lounge area, and Wine Director Paul Botamer, whom I met earlier, arrived with a bottle of Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Gran Reserva 1983 dessert wine. Paul poured me a glass and told the story of the wine's thirty years of barrel aging. The wine was a delicious treat of dense smoke and chocolate. 

Overall service at Fearing's was outstanding. Four servers worked seamlessly to care for me, I enjoyed constant attention early, and then was allowed to enjoy the wines. I never had to look for a server, and all were conversational and knowledgeable. Their collective demeanor as they fluidly cared for a variety of patrons and party sizes put me at ease. I took note of reactions from other tables, and all appeared similarly satisfied. It felt superbly balanced.

The wine service was exciting to experience, and the standout aspects of the wine program were many. The glassware, and the generosity of pours into them. The presentation of bottles, even for wines by the glass. The openness about the philosophy behind the wine program, from staff training to handling leftover wine. Most of all, there was an eager willingness to satisfy my desired wine exploration. It was evident that Fearing's expects to deliver a memorable and satisfying wine journey.